933 resultados para surf zone


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Sandy beaches are among the most extensive environments in Brazil and are generally threatened by disorderly urban growth due to their location along the coast, where human populations tend to concentrate. This is especially true in southeastern Brazil, where the largest urban areas are located. Thus, better knowledge regarding these natural resources is of considerable importance. The surf zone of sandy beaches is inhabited by a number of fish species, including juveniles seeking both food and shelter from predators. An ecological survey was conducted in the surf zone of Itamambuca beach in the city of Ubatuba, São Paulo State, Brazil, in order to evaluate the composition, structure and dynamics of the fish fauna using community descriptors. Diurnal and nocturnal samples were taken with a beach seine at five oceanographic stations over a 12-month period. Water temperature and salinity were also recorded. A total of 2,147 individuals representing 34 species and 18 families were sampled. The main variation in fish fauna was detected on the diel level, followed by a spatial repartition possibly related to salinity. Seasonal variation was also observed. The five most important species in the overall context were Atherinella brasiliensis, Eucinostomus melanopterus, Mugil sp., Trachinotus goodei and Atherinella blackburni.

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A novel bloom of the surf diatom Anaulus australis Drebes et Schultz was observed in subtropical waters off Surfers' Paradise, Queensland, Australia (27 degrees 55'S; 153 degrees 23'E) in early May 2000. This is the lowest latitude in which an Anaulus australis surf diatom bloom has been reported. Nitrogen stable isotope analysis of surf diatoms may indicate anthropogenic nutrient inputs in this environment.

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Sediment transport in the nearshore areas is an important process in deciding the coastline stability. The design and effective maintenance of navigable waterways, harbours and marine structures depend on the stability of the sediment substrate and the nature of sedimentation in the nearshore zone. The nearshore zone is a complex environment and the exact relationships existing between water motions and the resulting sediment transports are not well understood. During the rough weather season, when the sediment movement is considerable, processes occurring in the nearshore area are much less understood. Moreover, there is a general lack of field measurements, especially during the time of severe storm conditions. The increasing pressures and the concern on the preservation of the valuable coastal environment have led to the development of shore protection programmes. Conservation not only demands knowledge of what needs to be done, but also requires the basic processes to be fully understood. Considering the fragile nature of barrier beaches and intense occupancy of these areas by man, these coastal features have long been a subject of study by coastal oceanographers, geomorphologists and engineers. The present study is an attempt to understand the sediment movement in relation to beach dynamics, especially in the surf zone, along some part of Kerala coast and the response of the beaches to various forcing functions over different seasons

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Recent aircraft measurements, primarily in the extratropics, of the horizontal variance of nitrous oxide (N2O) and ozone (O3) in the middle stratosphere indicate that horizontal spectra of the tracer variance scale nearly as k−2, where k is the spatial wavenumber along the aircraft flight track [Strahan and Mahlman, 1994; Bacmeister et al., 1996]. This spectral scaling has been regarded as inconsistent with the accepted picture of stratospheric tracer motion; large-scale quasi-two-dimensional tracer advection typically yields a k−1 scaling (i.e., the classical Batchelor spectrum). In this paper it is argued that the nearly k−2 scaling seen in the measurements is a natural outcome of quasi-two-dimensional filamentation of the polar vortex edge. The accepted picture of stratospheric tracer motion can thus be retained: no additional physical processes are needed to account for deviations from the Batchelor spectrum. Our argument is based on the finite lifetime of tracer filaments and on the “singularity spectrum” associated with a one-dimensional field composed of randomly spaced jumps in concentration.

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"September 1984."

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Mode of access: Internet.

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"September 1982."

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To understand the mechanisms that trigger changes in chlorophyll a and species composition in the phytoplankton of the surf-zone at Cassino Beach (RS), we performed two short nutrient-enrichment experiments (4–5 days each) during the summer and winter of 2010. Seawater was incubated under controlled conditions of temperature (summer 25± 3 °C, winter 18±1 °C), salinity (summer 28, winter 26) and irradiance (100 μmol m−2 s−1 ). Dissolved inorganic nutrients were added in various concentrations in the summer (silicate, Si; nitrate, N; phosphate, P) and winter (N, P) experiments. Samples were taken daily for cell counts and chlorophyll a analysis. In both experiments, chlorophyll a values and cell density showed a significant increase (mainly diatoms) in the treatments with nitrate addition, regardless of the proportion added. In the summer experiment, the largest chlorophyll a increase, approximately threefold (31.5 to 89.5 μg L−1 ), was observed in the NP treatment due to the growth of Asterionellopsis glacialis (Castracane) Round, Skeletonema tropicum Cleve, Thalassiosira sp. Cleve and Pseudo-nitzschia spp. Peragallo. The maximum growth was obtained in the SiNP treatment for S. tropicum (μ=0.7), Thalassiosira (μ= 1.9) and Pseudo-nitzschia (μ= 1.3) and in the SiN treatment for A. glacialis (μ= 1.0). In the winter experiment, the chlorophyll a content increased 4.2 and 5.5 times, respectively, in the N and NP treatments (maxima 38.8 μg L−1 and 31.5 μg L−1 ), where A. glacialis (μ= 1.7–1.9) and Cylindrotheca closterium (Ehrenberg) Reimann & J.C. Lewin (μ= 1.0–1.96) showed the highest amount of growth. These results indicate that nitrate is the most important nutrient controlling phytoplankton chlorophyll a at sandy Cassino Beach. However, the responses of different species to enrichment during the summer and winter indicated that other factors also played a role. A. glacialis, present during both seasons, presented the highest growth rate during the winter, whereas during the summer it was independent of nutrient enrichment but coincided with the lowest growth of S. tropicum. This finding suggested the occurrence of allelopathic interactions between these species. During the summer, multi-enrichment (SiNP) favoured the best growth of S. tropicum, Pseudo-nitzschia spp. and Thalassiosira sp. These results indicated that the phytoplankton composition and diversity in the surf zone of Cassino Beach are shaped by the availability of silicate and phosphorus as well as by the availability of nitrate.

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New dredge-disposal techniques may serve the dual role of aiding sand by-passing across coastal inlets, and beach nourishment, provided the dredged sediments placed seaward of the surf zone move shoreward into that zone. During the summer of 1976, 26,750 cubic meters of relatively coarse sediment was dredged from New River Inlet, North Carolina, moved down coast by a split-hull barge, and placed in a 215-meter coastal reach between the 2- and 4-meter depth contours. Bathymetric changes on the disposal piles and in the adjacent beach and nearshore area were studied for a 13-week period (August to November 1976) to determine the modification of the surrounding beach and nearshore profile, and the net transport direction of the disposal sediment. The sediment piles initially created a local shoal zone with minimum depths of 0.6 meter. Disposal sediment was coarser (Mn = 0.49 millimeter) than the native sand at the disposal site (Mn = 0.14 millimeter) and coarser than the composite mean grain size of the entire profile (Mn = 0.21 millimeter). Shoaling and breaking waves caused rapid erosion of the pile tops and a gradual coalescing of the piles to form a disposal bar located seaward (= 90 meters) of a naturally occurring surf zone bar. As the disposal bar relief was reduced, the disposal bar-associated breaker zone was restricted to low tide times or periods of high wave conditions.

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A morfologia das praias é reflexo da ação hidrodinfunica com o tipo de sedimento disponível. Esta interação se dá a partir da base de ação das ondas, tornando-se mais efetiva na zona de arrebentação onde a energia é dissipada, originando na zona de surfe que se estende em direção à linha de costa até Q limite do espraiamento na face de praia. O objetivo deste trabalho é apresentar as características morfodinâmicas do litoral NE do Estado do Rio de Janeiro, baseando-se na análise da variação espaço Hemporal de perfis de praia, na morfologia da plataforma continental e em fotos aéreas. Os perfis de praia foram levantados durante cinco anos pela PETROBRÁS S/A, em oito estações ao longo do litoral. O comportamento morfodinâmico distinto de setores do litoral estudado é função do padrão de ondas e direção da linha de costa, morfologia da plataforma interna controlando a extensão da zona de surfe e o número de zonas de arrebentação, características dos sedimentos e gradiente da face de praia. Foram reconhecidos quatro compartimentos morfodinâmicos distintos, com base na morfologia dos perfis praiais e plataforma interna, no índice de mobilidade da linha de praia, granulometria x gradiente da face de praia e o parâmetro Q. Os quatro compartimentos são: Atafona/Foz do Rio Paraíba do Sul - estágio morfodinâmico intermediário a dissipativo, com o maior índice de mobilidade e elevada taxa de erosão; Sul de Atafona-Cabo de São Tomé - estágio intermediário a refletivo com baixo índice de mobilidade da praia; Cabo de São Tomé - estágio refletivo a intermediário com alto índice de mobilidade da praia; Cabo de São Tomé-Cabiúnas - estágio refletivo com baixo índice de mobilidade.

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The use of unmanned marine robotic vehicles in bathymetric surveys is discussed. This paper presents recent results in autonomous bathymetric missions with the ROAZ autonomous surface vehicle. In particular, robotic surface vehicles such as ROAZ provide an efficient tool in risk assessment for shallow water environments and water land interface zones as the near surf zone in marine coast. ROAZ is an ocean capable catamaran for distinct oceanographic missions, and with the goal to fill the gap were other hydrographic surveys vehicles/systems are not compiled to operate, like very shallow water rivers and marine coastline surf zones. Therefore, the use of robotic systems for risk assessment is validated through several missions performed either in river scenario (in a very shallow water conditions) and in marine coastlines.

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This paper presents the design of low cost, small autonomous surface vehicle for missions in the coastal waters and specifically for the challenging surf zone. The main objective of the vehicle design described in this paper is to address both the capability of operation at sea in relative challenging conditions and maintain a very low set of operational requirements (ease of deployment). This vehicle provides a first step towards being able to perform general purpose missions (such as data gathering or patrolling) and to at least in a relatively short distances to be able to be used in rescue operations (with very low handling requirements) such as carrying support to humans on the water. The USV is based on a commercially available fiber glass hull, it uses a directional waterjet powered by an electrical brushless motor for propulsion, thus without any protruding propeller reducing danger in rescue operations. Its small dimensions (1.5 m length) and weight allow versatility and ease of deployment. The vehicle design is described in this paper both from a hardware and software point of view. A characterization of the vehicle in terms of energy consumption and performance is provided both from test tank and operational scenario tests. An example application in search and rescue is also presented and discussed with the integration of this vehicle in the European ICARUS (7th framework) research project addressing the development and integration of robotic tools for large scale search and rescue operations.