Studies On Sediment Transport In The Surf Zone Along Certain Beaches Of Kerala

Sediment transport in the nearshore areas is an important process in deciding the coastline stability. The design and effective maintenance of navigable waterways, harbours and marine structures depend on the stability of the sediment substrate and the nature of sedimentation in the nearshore zone. The nearshore zone is a complex environment and the exact relationships existing between water motions and the resulting sediment transports are not well understood. During the rough weather season, when the sediment movement is considerable, processes occurring in the nearshore area are much less understood. Moreover, there is a general lack of field measurements, especially during the time of severe storm conditions. The increasing pressures and the concern on the preservation of the valuable coastal environment have led to the development of shore protection programmes. Conservation not only demands knowledge of what needs to be done, but also requires the basic processes to be fully understood. Considering the fragile nature of barrier beaches and intense occupancy of these areas by man, these coastal features have long been a subject of study by coastal oceanographers, geomorphologists and engineers. The present study is an attempt to understand the sediment movement in relation to beach dynamics, especially in the surf zone, along some part of Kerala coast and the response of the beaches to various forcing functions over different seasons

Comments on some recent measurements of anomalously steep N2O and O3tracer spectra in the stratospheric surf zone

Recent aircraft measurements, primarily in the extratropics, of the horizontal variance of nitrous oxide (N2O) and ozone (O3) in the middle stratosphere indicate that horizontal spectra of the tracer variance scale nearly as k−2, where k is the spatial wavenumber along the aircraft flight track [Strahan and Mahlman, 1994; Bacmeister et al., 1996]. This spectral scaling has been regarded as inconsistent with the accepted picture of stratospheric tracer motion; large-scale quasi-two-dimensional tracer advection typically yields a k−1 scaling (i.e., the classical Batchelor spectrum). In this paper it is argued that the nearly k−2 scaling seen in the measurements is a natural outcome of quasi-two-dimensional filamentation of the polar vortex edge. The accepted picture of stratospheric tracer motion can thus be retained: no additional physical processes are needed to account for deviations from the Batchelor spectrum. Our argument is based on the finite lifetime of tracer filaments and on the “singularity spectrum” associated with a one-dimensional field composed of randomly spaced jumps in concentration.

Modeling wave transformation in the surf zone /

"September 1984."

Maximum wave heights and critical water depths for irregular waves in the surf zone /

"February 1980."

Accuracy of hydrographic surveying in and near the surf zone /

Mode of access: Internet.

Surf zone currents /

"September 1982."

The response of surf-zone phytoplankton to nutrient enrichment (Cassino Beach, Brazil)

To understand the mechanisms that trigger changes in chlorophyll a and species composition in the phytoplankton of the surf-zone at Cassino Beach (RS), we performed two short nutrient-enrichment experiments (4–5 days each) during the summer and winter of 2010. Seawater was incubated under controlled conditions of temperature (summer 25± 3 °C, winter 18±1 °C), salinity (summer 28, winter 26) and irradiance (100 μmol m−2 s−1 ). Dissolved inorganic nutrients were added in various concentrations in the summer (silicate, Si; nitrate, N; phosphate, P) and winter (N, P) experiments. Samples were taken daily for cell counts and chlorophyll a analysis. In both experiments, chlorophyll a values and cell density showed a significant increase (mainly diatoms) in the treatments with nitrate addition, regardless of the proportion added. In the summer experiment, the largest chlorophyll a increase, approximately threefold (31.5 to 89.5 μg L−1 ), was observed in the NP treatment due to the growth of Asterionellopsis glacialis (Castracane) Round, Skeletonema tropicum Cleve, Thalassiosira sp. Cleve and Pseudo-nitzschia spp. Peragallo. The maximum growth was obtained in the SiNP treatment for S. tropicum (μ=0.7), Thalassiosira (μ= 1.9) and Pseudo-nitzschia (μ= 1.3) and in the SiN treatment for A. glacialis (μ= 1.0). In the winter experiment, the chlorophyll a content increased 4.2 and 5.5 times, respectively, in the N and NP treatments (maxima 38.8 μg L−1 and 31.5 μg L−1 ), where A. glacialis (μ= 1.7–1.9) and Cylindrotheca closterium (Ehrenberg) Reimann & J.C. Lewin (μ= 1.0–1.96) showed the highest amount of growth. These results indicate that nitrate is the most important nutrient controlling phytoplankton chlorophyll a at sandy Cassino Beach. However, the responses of different species to enrichment during the summer and winter indicated that other factors also played a role. A. glacialis, present during both seasons, presented the highest growth rate during the winter, whereas during the summer it was independent of nutrient enrichment but coincided with the lowest growth of S. tropicum. This finding suggested the occurrence of allelopathic interactions between these species. During the summer, multi-enrichment (SiNP) favoured the best growth of S. tropicum, Pseudo-nitzschia spp. and Thalassiosira sp. These results indicated that the phytoplankton composition and diversity in the surf zone of Cassino Beach are shaped by the availability of silicate and phosphorus as well as by the availability of nitrate.

Transport of dredged sediment placed in the nearshore zone--Currituck sand-bypass study (phase I) /

New dredge-disposal techniques may serve the dual role of aiding sand by-passing across coastal inlets, and beach nourishment, provided the dredged sediments placed seaward of the surf zone move shoreward into that zone. During the summer of 1976, 26,750 cubic meters of relatively coarse sediment was dredged from New River Inlet, North Carolina, moved down coast by a split-hull barge, and placed in a 215-meter coastal reach between the 2- and 4-meter depth contours. Bathymetric changes on the disposal piles and in the adjacent beach and nearshore area were studied for a 13-week period (August to November 1976) to determine the modification of the surrounding beach and nearshore profile, and the net transport direction of the disposal sediment. The sediment piles initially created a local shoal zone with minimum depths of 0.6 meter. Disposal sediment was coarser (Mn = 0.49 millimeter) than the native sand at the disposal site (Mn = 0.14 millimeter) and coarser than the composite mean grain size of the entire profile (Mn = 0.21 millimeter). Shoaling and breaking waves caused rapid erosion of the pile tops and a gradual coalescing of the piles to form a disposal bar located seaward (= 90 meters) of a naturally occurring surf zone bar. As the disposal bar relief was reduced, the disposal bar-associated breaker zone was restricted to low tide times or periods of high wave conditions.

Sediment budget: principals and applications

The framework of sediment budget concepts provides a formalized procedure to account for the various components of sediment flux and the changes of volume that occur within a given region. Sediment budget methodology can be useful in a number of coastal engineering and research applications, including: inferring the amount of onshore sediment transport for a nearshore system that contains an "excess of sediment", determining sediment deficits to downdrift beaches as a result of engineering works at navigational entrances, evaluating the performance of a beach nourishment project, inferring the distribution of longshore sediment transport across the surf zone, etc. This chapter reviews briefly the governing equations for sediment budget calculations, considers various measurement and other bases for determining the sediment flux components necessary to apply the sediment budget concept and finally for illustration purposes, applies the sediment budget concept to several examples. (PDF contains 52 pages.)

Features of wave field, its effect to erosion - deposition processes in the Cua Dai (Hoi An), Cai river mouth (Nha Trang) and Phan Thiet Bay in typical local wind conditions

Based on the hydrodynamic model and Shore Protection Manual (CERC - USA) we have calculated wave field characteristics in the typical wind conditions (wind velocity equal to 13m/s in the high frequency direction of the wind regime). Comparison between measured and calculated wave parameters was presented and these results were corresponded to each other. The following main wave characteristics were calculated: -Pattern of the refraction wave field. -Average wave height field. -Longshore current velocity field in surf zone. From distribution features of wave field characteristics in research areas, it could be summarized as following: - The formation of wave fields in the research areas was unequal because of their local difference of hydrometeorological conditions, river discharge, bottom relief… - At Cuadai (Dai mouth, Hoian) area in the N direction of incident wave field, wave has caused serious variation of the coastline. The coastline in the whole region, especially, at the south of the mouth was eroded and the foreland in the north of the mouth was deposited. - At Cai river mouth (Nhatrang) area in the E direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly and directly to the inshore and channel structure. - At Phanthiet bay area in the SW direction of incident wave field, wave has effected strongly to the whole shoreline from Da point to Ne point and caused serious erosion.

Autonomous bathymetry for risk assessment with ROAZ robotic surface vehicle

The use of unmanned marine robotic vehicles in bathymetric surveys is discussed. This paper presents recent results in autonomous bathymetric missions with the ROAZ autonomous surface vehicle. In particular, robotic surface vehicles such as ROAZ provide an efficient tool in risk assessment for shallow water environments and water land interface zones as the near surf zone in marine coast. ROAZ is an ocean capable catamaran for distinct oceanographic missions, and with the goal to fill the gap were other hydrographic surveys vehicles/systems are not compiled to operate, like very shallow water rivers and marine coastline surf zones. Therefore, the use of robotic systems for risk assessment is validated through several missions performed either in river scenario (in a very shallow water conditions) and in marine coastlines.

Water jet based autonomous surface vehicle for coastal waters operations

This paper presents the design of low cost, small autonomous surface vehicle for missions in the coastal waters and specifically for the challenging surf zone. The main objective of the vehicle design described in this paper is to address both the capability of operation at sea in relative challenging conditions and maintain a very low set of operational requirements (ease of deployment). This vehicle provides a first step towards being able to perform general purpose missions (such as data gathering or patrolling) and to at least in a relatively short distances to be able to be used in rescue operations (with very low handling requirements) such as carrying support to humans on the water. The USV is based on a commercially available fiber glass hull, it uses a directional waterjet powered by an electrical brushless motor for propulsion, thus without any protruding propeller reducing danger in rescue operations. Its small dimensions (1.5 m length) and weight allow versatility and ease of deployment. The vehicle design is described in this paper both from a hardware and software point of view. A characterization of the vehicle in terms of energy consumption and performance is provided both from test tank and operational scenario tests. An example application in search and rescue is also presented and discussed with the integration of this vehicle in the European ICARUS (7th framework) research project addressing the development and integration of robotic tools for large scale search and rescue operations.

Transport in the middle atmosphere

An overview is provided of the current understanding of transport in the middle atmosphere. Over the past quarter century this subject has evolved from a basic recognition of the Brewer-Dobson circulation to a detailed appreciation of many key features of transport such as the stratospheric surf zone, mixing barriers and the dynamics of filamentation. Whilst the elegant theoretical framework for middle atmosphere transport that emerged roughly twenty years ago never fulfilled its promise, useful phenomenological models have been developed together with innovative diagnostic methods. These advances were made possible by the advent of plenty of satellite and aircraft observations of long-lived chemical species together with developments in data assimilation and numerical modeling, and have been driven in large measure by the problem of stratospheric ozone depletion. This review is primarily focused on the stratosphere, where both the interest and the knowledge are the greatest, but a few remarks are also made on the mesosphere.