Improving knowledge, fibre and textile quality, and communications

This is a technical report summarising activities to improve the knowledge about rare natural animal fibres in Australia, including aspects of their production, fibre quality, and textiles made from these fibres. It summarises results of Australian investment on these subjects, and makes recommendations about future investment. This is important, as there is limited scientific understanding of how to improve productivity, quality and financial returns from these industries in Australia.

Properties, processing and performance of rare and natural fibres : a review and interpretation of existing research results

A substantial up-to-date reference manual has been prepared which documents important issues for the supply chain of rare natural animal fibres. New developments in textiles have been included. Cashmere, mohair and camelid fibres have special properties of softness, smoothness and lustre, when compared with sheep wool. They also have other attributes which affect market prices and consumer perceptions, such as being rare and exotic luxuries, and are associated with expensive, comfortable and exclusive garments. These fibres add to the range of wool processing, and add value to wool textiles. Generally, knowledge about these animal fibres is limited, and research effort small compared with research into wool and other natural and man-made fibres. Compared with wool, rare natural animal fibres are more difficult and costly to process. Knowledge about processing these fibres is kept guarded as industrial knowledge. There are problems with clearly identifying rare natural animal fibres when goods are traded or fibres are blended, and fraud is a major concern for textile manufacturers and industry groups. Prickle discomfort in mohair and alpaca next-to-skin wear is a major concern for consumers and textile manufacturers. Natural colours, whiteness and yellowness of rare natural animal fibres are important fibre attributes for dyers and consumers, and the current products have both positive and negative colour attributes for processors. Past investments by RIRDC have made substantial gains in knowledge about fundamental and applied areas of knowledge on the properties, testing and processing performance of rare natural animal fibres.

Variation in the softness and fibre curvature of cashmere, alpaca, mohair and other rare animal fibres

Softness of apparel textiles is a major attribute sought by consumers. There is surprisingly little objective information on the softness properties of rare animal fibres, particularly cashmere, alpaca and mohair. Samples of these and other rare animal fibres from different origins of production and processors were objectively measured for fibre diameter, fibre curvature (FC, crimp) and resistance to compression (softness). While there were curvilinear responses of resistance to compression to FC and to mean fibre diameter, FC accounted for much more of the variance in resistance to compression. Fibre type was an important determinant of resistance to compression. The softest fibres were alpaca, mohair and cashgora and all of the fibres measured were softer than most Merino wool. Quivet, llama, camel, guanaco, vicuña, yak wool, bison wool, dehaired cow down and Angora rabbit were also differentiated from alpaca, mohair and cashmere. There were important differences in the softness and FC of cashmere from different origins with cashmere from newer origins of production (Australia, New Zealand and USA) having lower resistance to compression than cashmere from traditional sources of China and Iran. Cashmere from different origins was differentiated on the basis of resistance to compression, FC and fibre diameter. Cashgora was differentiated from cashmere by having a lower FC and lower resistance to compression. There were minority effects of colour and fibre diameter variation on resistance to compression of cashmere. The implications of these findings for the identification and use of softer raw materials are discussed.

Feltability of cashmere and other rare animal fibres and the effects of nutrition and blending with wool on cashmere feltability

Felting is a unique attribute of animal fibres used for the production of a range of industrial and apparel textiles. Felting can be an adverse attribute as a consequence of dimensional shrinkage during laundering. As there is little objective information regarding the feltability of rare animal fibres or the factors which may affect felting three investigations were undertaken. A survey (n = 114) of the feltability of cashmere from different origins of production, cashgora, quivet, camel hair, llama, guanaco, bison wool, cow fibre and yak wool quantified the large variation between and within these fibre types. Cashmere from some origins and cashgora produced higher feltball density than the other fibres. Different nutritional management of cashmere goats (n = 35) showed that cashmere grown by poorly fed goats had a lower propensity to felt compared with cashmere grown by better fed goats. A consequence of the progressive blending of cashmere (n = 27) with a low propensity to felt superfine wool (high fibre curvature) increased the propensity of the blend to felt, but when the same cashmere was blended with low curvature superfine wool, there was little or no effect on feltability. The mechanisms which lead to variance in feltability of these fibres were quantified with multiple regression modelling. The mechanisms were similar to those reported for wools, namely variations in the resistance to compression, fibre curvature and mean fibre diameter, with likely effects of fibre crimp form. It is possible to source cashmere and other animal fibres which have different propensities to felt and therefore to produce textiles which are likely to have different textile properties.

FTIR and thermal analysis of cashmere and other animal fibres

In this paper, sereval varieties of animal fibres including cashmere and Australian fine Merino wool have been analysed by Fourier transform infrared microscope and differential scanning calorimeter. The results showed that both Chinese and Australian cashmere fibres started absorbing heat at a relatively higher temperature but were thermally degraded quicker than other animal fibres tested. However, the mass changes (within the temperature range of 200oC to 350oC) and associated onset temperatures varied among fibre varieties. From the attenuated total reflectance spectra, the Chinese cashmere was clearly different from Australian cashmere and wool in a peak near 1040 cm-1 wavelength for S-O stretching of cysteic acid residues. The Chinese cashmere presented a stronger absorption at 1019 cm-1 wavelength, while Australian cashmere and wool peaked at 1079 cm-1 wavelength and had a weaker absorption. Combined with thermal analysis, the normalised R-SO3 - content of cysteic acid residues to the amide II peak of the protein backbone may have potential use in identifying Australian fine Merino wool from Chinese cashmere.

Identification and classification of animal fibres using artificial neural networks

It has been an important and challenging task to classify and evaluate the contents in wool blends. Quantitative characterisation of animal fibre scale patterns has attracted considerable attention, since it is the major evidence for identification and subsequent classification purpose. Although techniques such as imaging processing and linear demarcation functions have been used to identify unknown fibre type with some success, a more comprehensive approach is required to perform this task. In this paper, a new approach is presented, which employs non-linear demarcation functions by using an artificial neural network (ANN). Based on scale pattern features extracted by using image processing techniques the artificial neural network (ANN) model is to classify mohair and merino fibres. It is observed that the techniques developed in this work are very effective and have the potential to be applied to other animal fibres.

Characterization of Wastes from Natural Rubber and Rubber Wood Processing Industries and Their Utilization for Biomethanation

The research work which was carried out to characterization of wastes from natural rubber and rubber wood processing industries and their utilization for biomethanation. Environmental contamination is an inevitable consequence of human activity. The liquid and solid wastes from natural rubber based industries were: characterized and their use for the production of biogas investigated with a view to conserve conventional energy, and to mitigate environmental degradation.Rubber tree (flevea brasiliensis Muell. Arg.), is the most important commercial source of natural rubber and in india. Recently, pollution from the rubber processing factories has become very serious due to the introduction of modern methods and centralized group processing practices.The possibility of the use of spent slurry as organic manure is discussed.l0 percent level of PSD, the activity of cellulolytic, acid producing,proteolytic, lipolytic and methanogenic bacteria were more in the middle stage of methanogenesis.the liquid wastes from rubber processing used as diluents in combination with PSD, SPE promoted more biogas production with high methane content in the gas.The factors that favour methane production like TS, VS, cellulose and hemicellulose degradation were favoured in this treatment which led to higher methane biogenesis.The results further highlight ways and means to use agricultural wastes as alternative sources of energy.

Ethnobotany of natural fibres - Bactris setosa (tucum) in a traditional rural community

This work aimed to study the characteristics of the fibres of the species Bactris setosa ('tucum') used by close-knit social groups, located in Sorocaba - Sao Paulo - Brazil, in basket-making techniques, for possible applications in textile activity. Optical microscopy (NBR 13 538:1995) and Tensile Properties (ASTM D 3 822-2001) were used to assess properties such as the fibre structre, linear density, breaking force, elongation at break and breaking tenacity of each species. Bactris setosa showed a longitudinal view similar to that of sisal; an average linear density of 41.2 tex, a tenacity average of 11.96 cN/tex, closer to fiberglass, and an elongation ranging between 1.35 and 3.87%. It is important to clarify the delicacy and detail of the tests, and from this we highlight the importance of carrying out these studies, based on which science and technology must be linked with socio-environmental aspects.

The softness of alpaca fibres

Softness is a unique selling point for luxury fibres such as alpaca. However, there is very little objective data on the softness of animal fibres. This study first establishes that the resistance to compression (RtC) behaviour of alpaca and wool fibres is quite different, and that the RtC method can not be used to examine the softness of different animal fibres. It then reports a new method for evaluating fibre softness. This method is based on the measurement of the force required to pull a fibre bundle through a series of parallel pins. This force, reflecting the combined effect of fibre surface properties, fibre diameter and rigidity, can achieve reasonable discrimination between fibres of varying levels of softness, such as alpaca and wool. Mechanisms responsible for the superior softness of alpaca fibres are discussed also.

Intelligent animal fibre identification and classification

To develop an objective and repeatable method of identification and classification of animal fibres, two different integrated systems were developed to mimic the human brain's ability to undertake feature extraction and discrimination of animal fibres. Both integrated systems are basically composed of an image processing system and an artificial neural network system.