Processing and quality of cashmere tops for ultra-fine wool worsted blend fabrics

This study has focussed on three main areas. First, an evaluation of the physical attributes of cashmere tops available to commercial spinners; second, the influence of processing variables on the efficiency of producing cashmere tops from raw Australian cashmere; and third, the influence of design of cashmere ultrafine wool blends on the fibre curvature of tops. Testing the physical attributes of cashmere tops from traditional and new sources of supply, was followed by statistical analyses based on factors of origin, processor and other determinants. The analyses demonstrated important processor effects and also that cashmere from different origins shows commercially important variations in fibre attributes. It was possible to efficiently produce Australian cashmere tops with Hauteur, tenacity, extension, softness and residual guard hairs quality attributes equivalent to those observed in the best cashmere tops. The blending of cashmere with wool resulted in a reduction of the mean fibre curvature of the blend compared with the unblended wool. The present work demonstrated that the fibre curvature properties of blended low crimp ultrafine wool tops were closer to the properties of pure cashmere tops than were tops made from blended standard high crimp ultrafine wool. The attributes of textiles made from the relatively rare Australian low curvature cashmere could enhance the marketability of both Australian cashmere and low curvature wool.

Sources of variation contributing to production and quality attributes of Kyrgyz cashmere in Osh and Naryn provinces : implications for industry development

We aimed to quantify the sources of variation contributing to the production and quality of cashmere produced in five districts in Osh and Naryn provinces of Kyrgyzstan. In early spring 2008 mid-side cashmere samples were taken from 719 cashmere adult females, and 41 cashmere adult males and castrates. Samples came from 53 villages and a total of 156 farmers’ flocks. For 91 goats from 33 farmers in 13 villages of two districts that had been sampled earlier, cashmere was combed from the goat at the time of a second visit (end of April 2008) when the cashmere would normally be harvested. Following standard cashmere objective measurement, data were examined using general linear modelling to quantify the effects of potential determinants. The mean fibre diameter (MFD) of cashmere differed between provinces (Osh 15.7 μm, Naryn 16.7 μm; P = 4.4 × 10−20). About 42% of the cashmere was <16 μm, 48% was 16.0–18.0 μm and 9.5% was >18.0 μm. Most of the cashmere samples were coloured (81%), with 63% black and 19% white. The percentage of cashmere samples that were white declined as MFD increased (26% < 14 μm to 11% of >18 μm). The primary determinants of cashmere MFD of individual goats were age of goat (range 1.46 μm, P = 1.8 × 10−12) and farm (range 6.5 μm, P = 1.7 × 10−14). The lesser effects detected for sex (range 0.9 μm, P = 0.026) and colour of cashmere (range 1.8 μm, P = 0.023) were based on small sample sizes and are unreliable. Age of goat had important affects on fibre diameter variation (up to 1.7% in coefficient of variation, P = 5.8 × 10−6) and fibre curvature (2.5–5°/mm, P = 2.1 × 10−4). By far the greatest effect on fibre curvature was cashmere MFD (P = 3.0 × 10−104) with a smaller effect of sex (about 5°/mm, P = 3.0 × 10−6). Village effects were detected on fibre diameter variability (range 4.5% in coefficient of variation, P = 0.027) and fibre curvature (range 15°/mm, P = 1.6 × 10−7). There was a strong negative association between increasing MFD and declining fibre curvature (−5.11 ± 0.181°/mm per 1 μm; P = 7.1 × 10−121; r2 = 0.51). Average combed cashmere weight was 164 g, the clean cashmere content was 0.661 and median clean cashmere production was 110 g per goat (range 60–351 g). Combed cashmere production increased with altitude of the village, probably related to different moulting times as spring temperatures warmed up later in higher altitude villages up to 3200 masl. Measurements of combed cashmere MFD were coarser than the mid-side samples taken earlier in the year. There are farmers and cashmere goats in the sampled districts of Kyrgyzstan which produce the finest qualities of commercial cashmere as the vast majority of cashmere is fine, has low variation in fibre diameter and has fibre crimping (curvature) typical of Chinese and Mongolian cashmere. There is substantial scope to increase the production and commercial value of cashmere produced by Kyrgyz goats. In particular, some villages and farmers need to change their buck selection practices if they wish to produce acceptable cashmere. Farmers should separate their finer and white cashmere prior to sale.

Lipid composition of cashmere goat fibres

This study examined the differences in the chemical composition, particularly fatty acids, of the lipid extracted from the fibre of bucks, does and castrated goats. The study provides a more detailed understanding of the chemical composition of buck fibre lipid and how it varies throughout the year, and also details the effect of body region and nutrition on the production and chemical composition of lipid from buck fibre. Lipid was extracted with either petroleum ether (non-polar) or chloroform/methanol azeotrope (polar) and analysed by gas chromatography and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The more polar solvent system extracted larger amounts of lipid and more of each individual fatty acid. The following buck specific ethyl branched fatty acids were identified: 2-ethylhexanoic, 4-ethylhexanoic, 2-ethyloctanoic, 4-ethyloctanoic, 6-ethyloctanoic, 2-ethyldecanoic, 4-ethyldecanoic, 2-ethyldodecanoic, 6-ethyldodecanoic, 4-ethyldodecanoic, 2-ethyltetradecanoic, 6-ethyltetradecanoic, 4-ethyltetradecanoic, 2-ethylhexadecanoic and 4-ethyloctadecanoic acids. Of these buck specific fatty acids only 4-ethylhexanoic (T), 4-ethyloctanoic, 4-ethyldecanoic, 4-ethyldodecanoic, 6-ethyldodecanoic (T), 4-ethyltetradecanoic, 2-ethylhexadecanoic (T) and 4-ethylhexadecanoic acids have been previously identified or tentatively identified (T) in buck fibre extracts. This shows that the chemical composition of buck fibre lipid is more complex than previously reported, and that it may be more difficult than previously thought to artificially duplicate the odour of the buck. Buck fibre samples had lower average concentrations of 2-methylpropanoic, 2-methylbutanoic, iso-pentadecanoic, anteiso-pentadecanoic, iso-hexadecanoic, anteiso-heptadecanoic, iso-octadecanoic and anteiso-nonadecanoic acids as compared with fibre samples from does, spayed does, or wethers that were castrated at one month of age. The reduced concentrations of these fatty acids in buck fibre extracts were likely to be due to the synthesis of ethyl branched derivatives of iso and anteiso fatty acids. Buck fibre samples had higher concentrations of benzoic acid as compared with fibre samples from does, spayed does, or wethers that were castrated at one month of age. The significance of these results is that non buck specific fatty acids may also make a contribution to the odour of bucks. When fibre samples were collected at various times throughout the year, it was found that the bucks had increased amounts of lipid and ethyl branched fatty acids in fibre samples shorn from March to September, as compared with fibre samples shorn in November and January. The increase in the amount of lipid and ethyl branched fatty acids corresponded with both the rutting period of the buck and the period when the buck odour was increased. This suggests that ethyl branched fatty acids could be pheromones. The variation in lipid content and fatty acid composition was also examined between fibre samples collected from different body regions of the buck during April, as alterations in sebaceous gland activity around the neck during rutting have been reported. It was found that the average amount of lipid in the neck region of the bucks was not statistically higher than the average amounts in the midside and hind regions. However, the ethyl branched fatty acid concentrations were statistically higher in the fibre from around the neck as compared with the fibre from the other body regions, which is consistent with the odour of the buck being most pronounced around the head and neck region. The lipid content and composition of fibre samples from bucks fed high and low quality diets (lucerne and pangola grass, respectively) was examined to determine the effect of nutrition on buck specific components. The high quality diet increased the amount of lipid and ethyl branched fatty acids in fibre samples collected in April from the neck, midside and hind regions, as compared with fibre samples from the corresponding body regions from bucks fed the low quality diet. Thus it may be possible for the pheromone levels of bucks to be increased by simply providing them with good nutrition. The lipid content and ethyl branched fatty acid concentrations of fibre samples increased earlier in the year for the lucerne fed bucks as compared with the pangola grass fed bucks. The lucerne fed bucks had increased concentrations of ethyl branched fatty acids in fibre samples shorn during December to June (6 months) whereas the pangola grass fed bucks had increased concentrations of ethyl branched fatty acids in fibre samples shorn during April to August (4 months). These observations show that good nutrition can result in both the earlier production of ethyl branched fatty acids and an extended period when ethyl branched fatty acids are produced. This suggests that nutrition can be used to manipulate pheromone levels in the buck. The period when the ethyl branched fatty acids were increased corresponded with the period when the plasma luteinizing hormone (LH) and testosterone concentrations, odour and sebaceous gland volume of the bucks were increased, which supports the assumption that ethyl branched fatty acids are involved in odour production and act as pheromones.

A review of cashmere nutrition experiments with suggestions for improving their design and conduct

The scientific literature contains divergent views about the effects of nutrition on cashmere. The consequences of ignoring nutrition will be an increase in the number of goats suffering lower production, increased welfare risks and premature mortality. This review evaluated published reports to identify current knowledge and best practice in regard to the design and management of cashmere nutrition experiments. The ability of experiments to distinguish between treatments was evaluated based on their statistical evidence. Many experiments had serious deficiencies in their design, conduct and reporting. Six of 16 papers did not provide statistical information that would enable a reader to verify differences between treatments. For most experiments to detect nutrition affects at P < 0.05, they required a difference between treatments of 0.2–0.8 μm in cashmere mean fibre diameter and 15–42 g in clean cashmere production. Government Research Institutes research was characterised by more experienced authors conducting longer (P < 0.05) and larger (P < 0.05) experiments than those conducted by Universities. Much of the “debate” regarding the affects of nutrition on cashmere production arises from the misinterpretation of both experiments that did not detect statistically significant effects and of experiments that did detect statistically significant effects. Based on a comparison between experiments reporting responses to nutrition with those reporting no response, 13 design and management features were identified that are related to the ability of experiments to detect significant treatment affects. Methods must be adopted to reduce the variance in cashmere production within treatments, by using sufficient animals per treatment, and having replication to provide sufficient degrees of freedom to reduce error terms in analysis. The power of experimental designs should be evaluated before experiments commence. Cashmere production records from a previous full production year could be used as co-variants during statistical analyses but this requires that potential experimental goats are managed in one flock, without variations resulting from different grazing, reproduction or other management for a year prior to an experiment. It is preferable to use more productive and older goats, and goats that are used to handling, and to the conditions and feed to be used. Allocation of animals to treatments must take into account live weight. Nutrition treatments need to be sufficiently different to produce different growth curves. An appropriate control is needed such as live weight maintenance. Evidence of both nutrition intake and growth curves must be published with cashmere production data so the claims made can be verified by the actual responses. As cashmere production is an order of magnitude less than fibre production of Merino sheep or Angora goats and is more difficult to measure, the requirements for measurement, sampling and testing cashmere fleeces are summarised. The use of mid side cashmere patches to determine cashmere growth and quality is seriously biased and must be avoided, preferably by shearing goats prior to and at the end of experiments. In order to obtain higher fleece growth responses and improve the ability of experiments to detect treatment effects it is preferable to start cashmere growth experiments by midsummer and conduct experiments for at least 4 months. These requirements make it difficult for many university students to plan, undertake and complete long-term cashmere nutrition experiments without considerable management support. It is not possible for experiments to disprove the Null hypothesis regarding the effects of nutrition on cashmere production as they can only report a failure to detect treatment effects. Researchers and journals need to be more rigorous in providing statistical information including: degrees of freedom for error terms, treatment variances, standard error of differences or similar to enable readers to compare treatment effects. Publications that do not provide sufficient statistical information should be disregarded from future discussions. Claims that an experiment shows no responses to nutrition should be subject to rigorous examination using the issues identified in this review.

The Scored Patient-Generated Subjective Global Assessment (PG-SGA) and its Association with Quality of Life in Ambulatory Patients Receiving Radiotherapy

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the scored Patient-generated Subjective Global Assessment (PG-SGA) tool as an outcome measure in clinical nutrition practice and determine its association with quality of life (QoL). DESIGN: A prospective 4 week study assessing the nutritional status and QoL of ambulatory patients receiving radiation therapy to the head, neck, rectal or abdominal area. SETTING: Australian radiation oncology facilities. SUBJECTS: Sixty cancer patients aged 24-85 y. INTERVENTION: Scored PG-SGA questionnaire, subjective global assessment (SGA), QoL (EORTC QLQ-C30 version 3). RESULTS: According to SGA, 65.0% (39) of subjects were well-nourished, 28.3% (17) moderately or suspected of being malnourished and 6.7% (4) severely malnourished. PG-SGA score and global QoL were correlated (r=-0.66, P<0.001) at baseline. There was a decrease in nutritional status according to PG-SGA score (P<0.001) and SGA (P<0.001); and a decrease in global QoL (P<0.001) after 4 weeks of radiotherapy. There was a linear trend for change in PG-SGA score (P<0.001) and change in global QoL (P=0.003) between those patients who improved (5%) maintained (56.7%) or deteriorated (33.3%) in nutritional status according to SGA. There was a correlation between change in PG-SGA score and change in QoL after 4 weeks of radiotherapy (r=-0.55, P<0.001). Regression analysis determined that 26% of the variation of change in QoL was explained by change in PG-SGA (P=0.001). CONCLUSION: The scored PG-SGA is a nutrition assessment tool that identifies malnutrition in ambulatory oncology patients receiving radiotherapy and can be used to predict the magnitude of change in QoL.

Testing a framework for the quality of process models: A case study

Process modeling can be regarded as the currently most popular form of conceptual modeling. Research evidence illustrates how process modeling is applied across the different information system life cycle phases for a range of different applications, such as configuration of Enterprise Systems, workflow management, or software development. However, a detailed discussion of critical factors of the quality of process models is still missing. This paper proposes a framework consisting of six quality factors, which is derived from a comprehensive literature review. It then presents in a case study, a utility provider, who had designed various business process models for the selection of an Enterprise System. The paper summarizes potential means of conducting a successful process modeling initiative and evaluates the described modeling approach within the Guidelines of Modeling (GoM) framework. An outlook shows the potential lessons learnt, and concludes with insights to the next phases of this study.

Measuring the quality of teaching in elementary school classrooms

This paper reviews the means by which teacher quality has been measured. It considers data sources such as students, peers, experts, and examines the psychometrics and scaleproperties of teacher quality assessment instruments with respect to reliability and validity. A list of items for possible inclusion in an elementary student focussed instrument is considered, together with the potential use of such an instrument in measuring teacher quality.