AMAZON RAINFOREST COSMETICS: CHEMICAL APPROACH FOR QUALITY CONTROL

The market for natural cosmetics featuring ingredients derived from Amazon natural resources is growing worldwide. However, there is neither enough scientific basis nor quality control of these ingredients. This paper is an account of the chemical constituents and their biological activities of fourteen Amazonian species used in cosmetic industry, including açaí (Euterpe oleracea), andiroba (Carapa guianensis), bacuri (Platonia insignis), Brazil nut (Bertholletia excelsa), buriti (Mauritia vinifera or M. flexuosa), cumaru (Dipteryx odorata), cupuaçu (Theobroma grandiflorum), guarana (Paullinia cupana), mulateiro (Calycophyllum spruceanum), murumuru (Astrocaryum murumuru), patawa (Oenocarpus bataua or Jessenia bataua), pracaxi (Pentaclethra macroloba), rosewood (Aniba rosaeodora), and ucuuba (Virola sebifera). Based on the reviewed articles, we selected chemical markers for the quality control purpose and evaluated analytical methods. Even though chromatographic and spectroscopic methods are major analytical techniques in the studies of these species, molecular approaches will also be important as used in food and medicine traceability. Only a little phytochemical study is available about most of the Amazonian species and some species such as açaí and andiroba have many reports on chemical constituents, but studies on biological activities of isolated compounds and sampling with geographical variation are limited.

Estudo do mercado cosmético chinês

Relatório de estágio de mestrado em Estudos Interculturais Português / Chinês: Tradução, Formação e Comunicação Empresarial

Luonnonkosmetiikan kriteerejä

Luonnonkosmetiikkaa ei ole määritelty kosmetiikkalaissa, eikä sille ole olemassa vielä virallisia kriteerejä. Kosmetiikan markkinoinnissa käytetään tilannetta hyväksi ja mainostetaan myös sellaisia tuotteita luonnonkosmetiikkana, joiden raaka-aineet ovat pääosin synteettisiä. Kuluttajien ja kosmetiikan parissa työskentelevien on vaikea erottaa aitoa luonnonkosmetiikkaa tavanomaisesta kosmetiikasta. Opinnäytetyön tarkoituksena oli koota tietoa luonnonkosmetiikasta. Työssä esiteltiin kahden luonnonkosmetiikan sertifiointiin erikoistuneen organisaation kriteerit luonnonkosmetiikalle sekä suomalainen luonnonkosmetiikkaohjeistus. Lisäksi tarkasteltiin luonnonkosmetiikan valmistukseen liittyviä haasteita ja käytettiin esimerkkinä saksalaista kosmetiikkatehdasta, joka on valmistanut luonnonkosmetiikkaa vuodesta 1976 lähtien. Työssä saatiin vastaus siihen, miten luonnonkosmetiikkaa tämän hetkisten kriteerien mukaan määritellään ja mitä kaikkea tulee ottaa huomioon luonnonkosmetiikan valmistuksessa. Tulevaisuuden haasteena on luoda yhtenäiset viralliset kriteerit luonnonkosmetiikasta koko EU-alueelle.

Rubus rosaefolius Extract as a Natural Preservative Candidate in Topical Formulations

Even though the synthetic preservatives may offer a high antimicrobial efficacy, they are commonly related to adverse reactions and regarded as having potentially harmful effects caused by chronic consumption. The development of natural preservatives provides a way of reducing the amount of synthetic preservatives normally used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In addition, these agents have less toxic effects and represent a possible natural and safer alternative of the preservatives. The purpose of this research was to evaluate the Rubus rosaefolius Smith extract efficiency as a natural preservative in base formulations. Of the extract, 0.2% (w/w) was assayed for its effectiveness of antimicrobial protection in two different base formulations (emulsion and gel). The microbial challenge test was performed following the standard procedures proposed by The United States Pharmacopoeia 33nd, European Pharmacopoeia 6th, Japanese Pharmacopoeia 15th, and the Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association using standardized microorganisms. The results demonstrated that R. rosaefolius extract at the studied concentration reduced the bacterial inocula, satisfying the criterion in all formulations, even though it was not able to present an effective preservative behavior against fungi. Thus, the investigation of new natural substances with preservative properties that could be applied in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products is relevant due to the possibility of substituting or decreasing the concentration of synthetic preservatives, providing a way for the development of safer formulas for the use of consumers.

Potential of antioxidant extracts produced by aqueous processing ofrenewable resources for the formulation of cosmetics

The performance of natural extracts obtained from underutilized and residual vegetal and macroalgal biomass processed with food-grade green solvents was compared with that of commercial antioxidants. Selected extracts were obtained from two terrestrial sources: winery byproducts concentrate (WBC) and chestnut burs hydrothermally fractionated extract (CBAE), and from two underutilized seaweeds: Sargassum muticum extracts, either extracted with ethanol (SmEE) or after alginate extraction and hydrothermal fractionation (SmAE) and from Ulva lactuca processed by mild acid extraction and membrane concentration (UlAE). These extracts showed in vitro antioxidant properties comparable to commercial antioxidants and were safe for topical use based on the absence of skin-irritant effects at 0.1% on reconstructed human tissues. The stability of several cosmetic model emulsions was assessed during accelerated oxidation assays. The incorporation of natural extracts produced from renewable underutilized resources at 0.4-0.5% in an oil-in-water emulsions reduced lipid oxidation during storage.

Carotenoids production: microorganisms as source of natural dyes

Carotenoids are natural dyes synthesized by plants, algae and microorganisms. Application in many sectors can be found, as food dyeing and supplementation, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and animal feed. Recent investigations have shown their ability to reduce the risks for many degenerative diseases like cancer, heart diseases, cataract and macular degeneration. An advantage of microbial carotenoids is the fact that the cultivation in controlled conditions is not dependent of climate, season or soil composition. In this review the advances in bio-production of carotenoids are presented, discussing the main factors that influence the microbial production of these dyes in different systems.

Natural gum-assisted phthalocyanine immobilization in electroactive nanocomposites: Physicochemical characterization and sensing applications

Natural gums have been traditionally applied in cosmetics and the food industry, mainly as emulsification agents. Due to their biodegradability and excellent mechanical properties, new technological applications have been proposed involving their use with conventional polymers forming blends and composites. In this study, we take advantage of the polyelectrolyte character exhibited by the natural gum Chicha (Sterculia striata), extracted in the Northeastern region of Brazil, to produce electroactive nanocomposites. The nanocomposites were fabricated in the form of ultrathin films by combining a metallic phthalocyanine (nickel tetrasulfonated phthalocyanine, NiTsPc) and the Chicha gum in a tetralayer architecture, in conjunction with conventional polyelectrolytes. The presence of the gum led to an efficient adsorption of the phthalocyanine and enhanced the electrochemical response of the films. Upon combining the electrochemical and UV-vis absorption data, energy diagrams of the Chicha/NiTsPc-based system were obtained. Furthermore, modified electrodes based on gum/phthalocyanine films were able to detect dopamine at concentrations as low as 10(-5) M.

Brazilian Natural Fiber (jute) As Raw Material For Activated Carbon Production.

Jute fiber is the second most common natural cellulose fiber worldwide, especially in recent years, due to its excellent physical, chemical and structural properties. The objective of this paper was to investigate: the thermal degradation of in natura jute fiber, and the production and characterization of the generated activated carbon. The production consisted of carbonization of the jute fiber and activation with steam. During the activation step the amorphous carbon produced in the initial carbonization step reacted with oxidizing gas, forming new pores and opening closed pores, which enhanced the adsorptive capacity of the activated carbon. N2 gas adsorption at 77K was used in order to evaluate the effect of the carbonization and activation steps. The results of the adsorption indicate the possibility of producing a porous material with a combination of microporous and mesoporous structure, depending on the parameters used in the processes, with resulting specific surface area around 470 m2.g-1. The thermal analysis indicates that above 600°C there is no significant mass loss.

Comparing Near-infrared Conventional Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy And Hyperspectral Imaging For Determination Of The Bulk Properties Of Solid Samples By Multivariate Regression: Determination Of Mooney Viscosity And Plasticity Indices Of Natural Rubber.

Conventional reflectance spectroscopy (NIRS) and hyperspectral imaging (HI) in the near-infrared region (1000-2500 nm) are evaluated and compared, using, as the case study, the determination of relevant properties related to the quality of natural rubber. Mooney viscosity (MV) and plasticity indices (PI) (PI0 - original plasticity, PI30 - plasticity after accelerated aging, and PRI - the plasticity retention index after accelerated aging) of rubber were determined using multivariate regression models. Two hundred and eighty six samples of rubber were measured using conventional and hyperspectral near-infrared imaging reflectance instruments in the range of 1000-2500 nm. The sample set was split into regression (n = 191) and external validation (n = 95) sub-sets. Three instruments were employed for data acquisition: a line scanning hyperspectral camera and two conventional FT-NIR spectrometers. Sample heterogeneity was evaluated using hyperspectral images obtained with a resolution of 150 × 150 μm and principal component analysis. The probed sample area (5 cm(2); 24,000 pixels) to achieve representativeness was found to be equivalent to the average of 6 spectra for a 1 cm diameter probing circular window of one FT-NIR instrument. The other spectrophotometer can probe the whole sample in only one measurement. The results show that the rubber properties can be determined with very similar accuracy and precision by Partial Least Square (PLS) regression models regardless of whether HI-NIR or conventional FT-NIR produce the spectral datasets. The best Root Mean Square Errors of Prediction (RMSEPs) of external validation for MV, PI0, PI30, and PRI were 4.3, 1.8, 3.4, and 5.3%, respectively. Though the quantitative results provided by the three instruments can be considered equivalent, the hyperspectral imaging instrument presents a number of advantages, being about 6 times faster than conventional bulk spectrometers, producing robust spectral data by ensuring sample representativeness, and minimizing the effect of the presence of contaminants.

Classificação de água de coco processada e natural por meio de HCA, PCA e teores de íons metálicos determinados por ICP OES

Inductively Coupled Plasma Optical Emission Spectrometry was used to determine Ca, Mg, Mn, Fe, Zn and Cu in samples of processed and natural coconut water. The sample preparation consisted in a filtration step followed by a dilution. The analysis was made employing optimized instrumental parameters and the results were evaluated using methods of Pattern Recognition. The data showed common concentration values for the analytes present in processed and natural samples. Principal Component Analysis (PCA) and Hierarchical Cluster Analysis (HCA) indicated that the samples of different kinds were statistically different when the concentrations of all the analytes were considered simultaneously.

Antimycobacterial and cytotoxicity activity of synthetic and natural compounds

Antimycobacterial and cytotoxicity activity of synthetic and natural compounds. Secondary metabolites from Curvularia eragrostidis and Drechslera dematioidea, Clusia sp. floral resin, alkaloids from Pilocarpus alatus, salicylideneanilines, piperidine amides, the amine 1-cinnamylpiperazine and chiral pyridinium salts were assayed on Mycobacterium tuberculosis H37Rv. N-(salicylidene)-2-hydroxyaniline was the most effective compound with a minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 8 µmol/L. Dihydrocurvularin was moderately effective with a MIC of 40 µmol/L. Clusia sp. floral resin and a gallocatechin-epigallocatechin mixture showed MIC of 0.02 g/L and 38 µmol/L, respectively. The cytotoxicity was evaluated for N-(salicylidene)-2-hydroxyaniline, curvularin, dihydrocurvularin and Clusia sp. floral resin, and the selectivity indexes were > 125, 0.47, 0.75 and 5, respectively.

Tree structure and richness in an Atlantic Forest fragment: distance from anthropogenic and natural edges

Approximately 7.2% of the Atlantic rainforest remains in Brazil, with only 16% of this forest remaining in the State of Rio de Janeiro, all of it distributed in fragments. This forest fragmentation can produce biotic and abiotic differences between edges and the fragment interior. In this study, we compared the structure and richness of tree communities in three habitats - an anthropogenic edge (AE), a natural edge (NE) and the fragment interior (FI) - of a fragment of Atlantic forest in the State of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (22°50'S and 42°28'W). One thousand and seventy-six trees with a diameter at breast height > 4.8 cm, belonging to 132 morphospecies and 39 families, were sampled in a total study area of 0.75 ha. NE had the greatest basal area and the trees in this habitat had the greatest diameter:height allometric coefficient, whereas AE had a lower richness and greater variation in the height of the first tree branch. Tree density, diameter, height and the proportion of standing dead trees did not differ among the habitats. There was marked heterogeneity among replicates within each habitat. These results indicate that the forest interior and the fragment edges (natural or anthropogenic) do not differ markedly considering the studied parameters. Other factors, such as the age from the edge, type of matrix and proximity of gaps, may play a more important role in plant community structure than the proximity from edges.

Amostragem e variabilidade espacial de atributos químicos do solo em área de vegetação natural em regeneração

The objectives of this work was to estimate the number of soil subsamples considering the classical statistics and geostatistics and determine the spatial variability of soil fertility attributes of an Ultisol, with clay texture, in an area of regenerating natural vegetation in Alegre - ES. Soil samples were collected in a depth of 0.0-0.2 m, at the crossing points of a regular grid, comprising a total of 64 points located at 10 m-intervals. The area presented low fertility soil. Considering a variation of 5% around the mean in the classic statistics, it is necessary a larger number of samples in relation to geostatistics. All the chemical attributes showed moderate to high spatial dependence, except for the effective cation exchange capacity (CECe), which showed pure nugget effect. The spherical semivariogram model gave the best fit to the data. Isoline maps allowed visualizing the differentiated spatial distribution of the contents of soil chemical attributes.

Variabilidade espacial de atributos físicos de um argissolo vermelho-amarelo sob pastagem e vegetação secundária em regeneração natural

This work was carried out with the objective of studying the spatial variability of the physical attributes of a Red-Yellow Ultisol under pasture and secondary vegetation in natural regeneration. Two areas were chosen in a hillside, with the soil sampling to the depth of 0-0.2 m, with the georeferenced points in a regular grid of 10x10 m, totalizing 64 points. In each point it was evaluated the total volume of porosity, macroporosity, microporosity, bulk density, soil penetration resistance and soil water content. The studied attributes in the pasture area present indicator of soil compaction for the animals' traffic, with moderate and strong structure of spatial dependence, except for the macroporosity and penetration resistance. In the area of secondary vegetation (VN) only the macroporosity does not present spatial dependence. The total volume of porosity and the bulk density present the same spatial standard in the area under pasture.