Effect of cold fronts on the benthic macrofauna of exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics

The aim of this study was to determine the short-term environmental changes caused by the simultaneous passage of a high energy event on two sandy beaches with different morphodynamic states and their influence on the richness, abundance and distribution of the benthic macrofauna. Two microtidal exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics were simultaneously sampled before, during and after the passage of two cold fronts in Santa Catarina. The reflective beach showed a higher susceptibility to the increase in wave energy produced by the passage of cold fronts and was characterized by rapid and intense erosive processes in addition to a capacity for rapid restoration of the beach profile. As regards the dissipative beach, erosive processes operated more slowly and progressively, and it was characterized further by a reduced capacity for the recovery of its sub-aerial profile. Although the intensity of the environmental changes was distinct as between the morphodynamic extremes, changes in the composition, richness and abundance of macrobenthos induced by cold fronts were not evident for either of the beaches studied. On the other hand, alterations in the distribution pattern of the macrofauna were observed on the two beaches and were related to variations in sea level, position of the swash zone and moisture gradient, suggesting that short-term accommodations in the spatial structure of the macrobenthos occur in response to changes in environmental conditions in accordance with the temporal dynamics characteristic of each morphodynamic state.

Effect of morphodynamics on annual average zonation pattern of benthic macrofauna of exposed sandy beaches in Santa Catarina, Brazil

This study investigated the effect of environmental factors on the annual average zonation pattern of benthic macrofauna of sub-aerial profile of three exposed sandy beaches of Santa Catarina with different morphodynamic characteristics. Sampling was carried out between March 2000 and March 2001, with monthly frequency on reflective and dissipative morphodynamic extremes and bimonthly frequency on the intermediate state. Results showed that macrobenthic zonation presented marked differences across the morphodynamic spectrum. The main differences observed from reflective to dissipative conditions were: a) increase in the number of species in lower zones of the beach; b) expansion of zones characterized by high water content of sediment and c) increase in the overlapping of zones, mainly on lower levels of the beach. Canonical Correspondence Analysis related these differences to distinctive cross-shore gradients in sediment moisture levels, sediment reworking and mean grain size that exist across the morphodynamic spectrum, showing that it is important to analyze these environmental factors in studies conducted to investigate zonation on microtidal exposed sandy beaches.

Systems biology of plants : from intraspecific genome variation to computational morphodynamics

Recently, the introduction of second generation sequencing and further advance-ments in confocal microscopy have enabled system-level studies for the functional characterization of genes. The degree of complexity intrinsic to these approaches needs the development of bioinformatics methodologies and computational models for extracting meaningful biological knowledge from the enormous amount of experi¬mental data which is continuously generated. This PhD thesis presents several novel bioinformatics methods and computational models to address specific biological questions in Plant Biology by using the plant Arabidopsis thaliana as a model system. First, a spatio-temporal qualitative analysis of quantitative transcript and protein profiles is applied to show the role of the BREVIS RADIX (BRX) protein in the auxin- cytokinin crosstalk for root meristem growth. Core of this PhD work is the functional characterization of the interplay between the BRX protein and the plant hormone auxin in the root meristem by using a computational model based on experimental evidence. Hyphotesis generated by the modelled to the discovery of a differential endocytosis pattern in the root meristem that splits the auxin transcriptional response via the plasma membrane to nucleus partitioning of BRX. This positional information system creates an auxin transcriptional pattern that deviates from the canonical auxin response and is necessary to sustain the expression of a subset of BRX-dependent auxin-responsive genes to drive root meristem growth. In the second part of this PhD thesis, we characterized the genome-wide impact of large scale deletions on four divergent Arabidopsis natural strains, through the integration of Ultra-High Throughput Sequencing data with data from genomic hybridizations on tiling arrays. Analysis of the identified deletions revealed a considerable portion of protein coding genes affected and supported a history of genomic rearrangements shaped by evolution. In the last part of the thesis, we showed that VIP3 gene in Arabidopsis has an evo-lutionary conserved role in the 3' to 5' mRNA degradation machinery, by applying a novel approach for the analysis of mRNA-Seq data from random-primed mRNA. Altogether, this PhD research contains major advancements in the study of natural genomic variation in plants and in the application of computational morphodynamics models for the functional characterization of biological pathways essential for the plant. - Récemment, l'introduction du séquençage de seconde génération et les avancées dans la microscopie confocale ont permis des études à l'échelle des différents systèmes cellulaires pour la caractérisation fonctionnelle de gènes. Le degrés de complexité intrinsèque à ces approches ont requis le développement de méthodologies bioinformatiques et de modèles mathématiques afin d'extraire de la masse de données expérimentale générée, des information biologiques significatives. Ce doctorat présente à la fois des méthodes bioinformatiques originales et des modèles mathématiques pour répondre à certaines questions spécifiques de Biologie Végétale en utilisant la plante Arabidopsis thaliana comme modèle. Premièrement, une analyse qualitative spatio-temporelle de profiles quantitatifs de transcripts et de protéines est utilisée pour montrer le rôle de la protéine BREVIS RADIX (BRX) dans le dialogue entre l'auxine et les cytokinines, des phytohormones, dans la croissance du méristème racinaire. Le noyau de ce travail de thèse est la caractérisation fonctionnelle de l'interaction entre la protéine BRX et la phytohormone auxine dans le méristème de la racine en utilisant des modèles informatiques basés sur des preuves expérimentales. Les hypothèses produites par le modèle ont mené à la découverte d'un schéma différentiel d'endocytose dans le méristème racinaire qui divise la réponse transcriptionnelle à l'auxine par le partitionnement de BRX de la membrane plasmique au noyau de la cellule. Cette information positionnelle crée une réponse transcriptionnelle à l'auxine qui dévie de la réponse canonique à l'auxine et est nécessaire pour soutenir l'expression d'un sous ensemble de gènes répondant à l'auxine et dépendant de BRX pour conduire la croissance du méristème. Dans la seconde partie de cette thèse de doctorat, nous avons caractérisé l'impact sur l'ensemble du génome des délétions à grande échelle sur quatre souches divergentes naturelles d'Arabidopsis, à travers l'intégration du séquençage à ultra-haut-débit avec l'hybridation génomique sur puces ADN. L'analyse des délétions identifiées a révélé qu'une proportion considérable de gènes codant était affectée, supportant l'idée d'un historique de réarrangement génomique modelé durant l'évolution. Dans la dernière partie de cette thèse, nous avons montré que le gène VÏP3 dans Arabidopsis a conservé un rôle évolutif dans la machinerie de dégradation des ARNm dans le sens 3' à 5', en appliquant une nouvelle approche pour l'analyse des données de séquençage d'ARNm issue de transcripts amplifiés aléatoirement. Dans son ensemble, cette recherche de doctorat contient des avancées majeures dans l'étude des variations génomiques naturelles des plantes et dans l'application de modèles morphodynamiques informatiques pour la caractérisation de réseaux biologiques essentiels à la plante. - Le développement des plantes est écrit dans leurs codes génétiques. Pour comprendre comment les plantes sont capables de s'adapter aux changements environnementaux, il est essentiel d'étudier comment leurs gènes gouvernent leur formation. Plus nous essayons de comprendre le fonctionnement d'une plante, plus nous réalisons la complexité des mécanismes biologiques, à tel point que l'utilisation d'outils et de modèles mathématiques devient indispensable. Dans ce travail, avec l'utilisation de la plante modèle Arabidopsis thalicinci nous avons résolu des problèmes biologiques spécifiques à travers le développement et l'application de méthodes informatiques concrètes. Dans un premier temps, nous avons investigué comment le gène BREVIS RADIX (BRX) régule le développement de la racine en contrôlant la réponse à deux hormones : l'auxine et la cytokinine. Nous avons employé une analyse statistique sur des mesures quantitatives de transcripts et de produits de gènes afin de démontrer que BRX joue un rôle antagonisant dans le dialogue entre ces deux hormones. Lorsque ce-dialogue moléculaire est perturbé, la racine primaire voit sa longueur dramatiquement réduite. Pour comprendre comment BRX répond à l'auxine, nous avons développé un modèle informatique basé sur des résultats expérimentaux. Les simulations successives ont mené à la découverte d'un signal positionnel qui contrôle la réponse de la racine à l'auxine par la régulation du mouvement intracellulaire de BRX. Dans la seconde partie de cette thèse, nous avons analysé le génome entier de quatre souches naturelles d'Arabidopsis et nous avons trouvé qu'une grande partie de leurs gènes étaient manquant par rapport à la souche de référence. Ce résultat indique que l'historique des modifications génomiques conduites par l'évolution détermine une disponibilité différentielle des gènes fonctionnels dans ces plantes. Dans la dernière partie de ce travail, nous avons analysé les données du transcriptome de la plante où le gène VIP3 était non fonctionnel. Ceci nous a permis de découvrir le rôle double de VIP3 dans la régulation de l'initiation de la transcription et dans la dégradation des transcripts. Ce rôle double n'avait jusqu'alors été démontrée que chez l'homme. Ce travail de doctorat supporte le développement et l'application de méthodologies informatiques comme outils inestimables pour résoudre la complexité des problèmes biologiques dans la recherche végétale. L'intégration de la biologie végétale et l'informatique est devenue de plus en plus importante pour l'avancée de nos connaissances sur le fonctionnement et le développement des plantes.

Automated quantitative histology reveals vascular morphodynamics during Arabidopsis hypocotyl secondary growth.

Among various advantages, their small size makes model organisms preferred subjects of investigation. Yet, even in model systems detailed analysis of numerous developmental processes at cellular level is severely hampered by their scale. For instance, secondary growth of Arabidopsis hypocotyls creates a radial pattern of highly specialized tissues that comprises several thousand cells starting from a few dozen. This dynamic process is difficult to follow because of its scale and because it can only be investigated invasively, precluding comprehensive understanding of the cell proliferation, differentiation, and patterning events involved. To overcome such limitation, we established an automated quantitative histology approach. We acquired hypocotyl cross-sections from tiled high-resolution images and extracted their information content using custom high-throughput image processing and segmentation. Coupled with automated cell type recognition through machine learning, we could establish a cellular resolution atlas that reveals vascular morphodynamics during secondary growth, for example equidistant phloem pole formation. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.7554/eLife.01567.001.

Multi-scale systems analysis of plant development : beyond cellular signaling and tissue morphodynamics

Les plantes sont essentielles pour les sociétés humaines. Notre alimentation quotidienne, les matériaux de constructions et les sources énergétiques dérivent de la biomasse végétale. En revanche, la compréhension des multiples aspects développementaux des plantes est encore peu exploitée et représente un sujet de recherche majeur pour la science. L'émergence des technologies à haut débit pour le séquençage de génome à grande échelle ou l'imagerie de haute résolution permet à présent de produire des quantités énormes d'information. L'analyse informatique est une façon d'intégrer ces données et de réduire la complexité apparente vers une échelle d'abstraction appropriée, dont la finalité est de fournir des perspectives de recherches ciblées. Ceci représente la raison première de cette thèse. En d'autres termes, nous appliquons des méthodes descriptives et prédictives combinées à des simulations numériques afin d'apporter des solutions originales à des problèmes relatifs à la morphogénèse à l'échelle de la cellule et de l'organe. Nous nous sommes fixés parmi les objectifs principaux de cette thèse d'élucider de quelle manière l'interaction croisée des phytohormones auxine et brassinosteroïdes (BRs) détermine la croissance de la cellule dans la racine du méristème apical d'Arabidopsis thaliana, l'organisme modèle de référence pour les études moléculaires en plantes. Pour reconstruire le réseau de signalement cellulaire, nous avons extrait de la littérature les informations pertinentes concernant les relations entre les protéines impliquées dans la transduction des signaux hormonaux. Le réseau a ensuite été modélisé en utilisant un formalisme logique et qualitatif pour pallier l'absence de données quantitatives. Tout d'abord, Les résultats ont permis de confirmer que l'auxine et les BRs agissent en synergie pour contrôler la croissance de la cellule, puis, d'expliquer des observations phénotypiques paradoxales et au final, de mettre à jour une interaction clef entre deux protéines dans la maintenance du méristème de la racine. Une étude ultérieure chez la plante modèle Brachypodium dystachion (Brachypo- dium) a révélé l'ajustement du réseau d'interaction croisée entre auxine et éthylène par rapport à Arabidopsis. Chez ce dernier, interférer avec la biosynthèse de l'auxine mène à la formation d'une racine courte. Néanmoins, nous avons isolé chez Brachypodium un mutant hypomorphique dans la biosynthèse de l'auxine qui affiche une racine plus longue. Nous avons alors conduit une analyse morphométrique qui a confirmé que des cellules plus anisotropique (plus fines et longues) sont à l'origine de ce phénotype racinaire. Des analyses plus approfondies ont démontré que la différence phénotypique entre Brachypodium et Arabidopsis s'explique par une inversion de la fonction régulatrice dans la relation entre le réseau de signalisation par l'éthylène et la biosynthèse de l'auxine. L'analyse morphométrique utilisée dans l'étude précédente exploite le pipeline de traitement d'image de notre méthode d'histologie quantitative. Pendant la croissance secondaire, la symétrie bilatérale de l'hypocotyle est remplacée par une symétrie radiale et une organisation concentrique des tissus constitutifs. Ces tissus sont initialement composés d'une douzaine de cellules mais peuvent aisément atteindre des dizaines de milliers dans les derniers stades du développement. Cette échelle dépasse largement le seuil d'investigation par les moyens dits 'traditionnels' comme l'imagerie directe de tissus en profondeur. L'étude de ce système pendant cette phase de développement ne peut se faire qu'en réalisant des coupes fines de l'organe, ce qui empêche une compréhension des phénomènes cellulaires dynamiques sous-jacents. Nous y avons remédié en proposant une stratégie originale nommée, histologie quantitative. De fait, nous avons extrait l'information contenue dans des images de très haute résolution de sections transverses d'hypocotyles en utilisant un pipeline d'analyse et de segmentation d'image à grande échelle. Nous l'avons ensuite combiné avec un algorithme de reconnaissance automatique des cellules. Cet outil nous a permis de réaliser une description quantitative de la progression de la croissance secondaire révélant des schémas développementales non-apparents avec une inspection visuelle classique. La formation de pôle de phloèmes en structure répétée et espacée entre eux d'une longueur constante illustre les bénéfices de notre approche. Par ailleurs, l'exploitation approfondie de ces résultats a montré un changement de croissance anisotropique des cellules du cambium et du phloème qui semble en phase avec l'expansion du xylème. Combinant des outils génétiques et de la modélisation biomécanique, nous avons démontré que seule la croissance plus rapide des tissus internes peut produire une réorientation de l'axe de croissance anisotropique des tissus périphériques. Cette prédiction a été confirmée par le calcul du ratio des taux de croissance du xylème et du phloème au cours de développement secondaire ; des ratios élevés sont effectivement observés et concomitant à l'établissement progressif et tangentiel du cambium. Ces résultats suggèrent un mécanisme d'auto-organisation établi par un gradient de division méristématique qui génèrent une distribution de contraintes mécaniques. Ceci réoriente la croissance anisotropique des tissus périphériques pour supporter la croissance secondaire. - Plants are essential for human society, because our daily food, construction materials and sustainable energy are derived from plant biomass. Yet, despite this importance, the multiple developmental aspects of plants are still poorly understood and represent a major challenge for science. With the emergence of high throughput devices for genome sequencing and high-resolution imaging, data has never been so easy to collect, generating huge amounts of information. Computational analysis is one way to integrate those data and to decrease the apparent complexity towards an appropriate scale of abstraction with the aim to eventually provide new answers and direct further research perspectives. This is the motivation behind this thesis work, i.e. the application of descriptive and predictive analytics combined with computational modeling to answer problems that revolve around morphogenesis at the subcellular and organ scale. One of the goals of this thesis is to elucidate how the auxin-brassinosteroid phytohormone interaction determines the cell growth in the root apical meristem of Arabidopsis thaliana (Arabidopsis), the plant model of reference for molecular studies. The pertinent information about signaling protein relationships was obtained through the literature to reconstruct the entire hormonal crosstalk. Due to a lack of quantitative information, we employed a qualitative modeling formalism. This work permitted to confirm the synergistic effect of the hormonal crosstalk on cell elongation, to explain some of our paradoxical mutant phenotypes and to predict a novel interaction between the BREVIS RADIX (BRX) protein and the transcription factor MONOPTEROS (MP),which turned out to be critical for the maintenance of the root meristem. On the same subcellular scale, another study in the monocot model Brachypodium dystachion (Brachypodium) revealed an alternative wiring of auxin-ethylene crosstalk as compared to Arabidopsis. In the latter, increasing interference with auxin biosynthesis results in progressively shorter roots. By contrast, a hypomorphic Brachypodium mutant isolated in this study in an enzyme of the auxin biosynthesis pathway displayed a dramatically longer seminal root. Our morphometric analysis confirmed that more anisotropic cells (thinner and longer) are principally responsible for the mutant root phenotype. Further characterization pointed towards an inverted regulatory logic in the relation between ethylene signaling and auxin biosynthesis in Brachypodium as compared to Arabidopsis, which explains the phenotypic discrepancy. Finally, the morphometric analysis of hypocotyl secondary growth that we applied in this study was performed with the image-processing pipeline of our quantitative histology method. During its secondary growth, the hypocotyl reorganizes its primary bilateral symmetry to a radial symmetry of highly specialized tissues comprising several thousand cells, starting with a few dozens. However, such a scale only permits observations in thin cross-sections, severely hampering a comprehensive analysis of the morphodynamics involved. Our quantitative histology strategy overcomes this limitation. We acquired hypocotyl cross-sections from tiled high-resolution images and extracted their information content using custom high-throughput image processing and segmentation. Coupled with an automated cell type recognition algorithm, it allows precise quantitative characterization of vascular development and reveals developmental patterns that were not evident from visual inspection, for example the steady interspace distance of the phloem poles. Further analyses indicated a change in growth anisotropy of cambial and phloem cells, which appeared in phase with the expansion of xylem. Combining genetic tools and computational modeling, we showed that the reorientation of growth anisotropy axis of peripheral tissue layers only occurs when the growth rate of central tissue is higher than the peripheral one. This was confirmed by the calculation of the ratio of the growth rate xylem to phloem throughout secondary growth. High ratios are indeed observed and concomitant with the homogenization of cambium anisotropy. These results suggest a self-organization mechanism, promoted by a gradient of division in the cambium that generates a pattern of mechanical constraints. This, in turn, reorients the growth anisotropy of peripheral tissues to sustain the secondary growth.

Quantification of the relation between surface morphodynamics and subsurface sedimentological product in sandy braided rivers

This study uses digital elevation models and ground-penetrating radar to quantify the relation between the surface morphodynamics and subsurface sedimentology in the sandy braided South Saskatchewan River, Canada. A unique aspect of the methodology is that both digital elevation model and ground-penetrating radar data were collected from the same locations in 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007, thus enabling the surface morphodynamics to be tied explicitly to the associated evolving depositional product. The occurrence of a large flood in 2005 also allowed the influence of discharge to be assessed with respect to the processproduct relationship. The data demonstrate that the morphology of the study reach evolved even during modest discharges, but more extensive erosion was caused by the large flood. In addition, the study reach was dominated by compound bars before the flood, but switched to being dominated by unit bars during and after the flood. The extent to which the subsurface deposits (the product') were modified by the surface morphodynamics (the process') was quantified using the changes in radar-facies recorded in sequential ground-penetrating radar surveys. These surveys reveal that during the large flood there was an increase in the proportion of facies associated with bar margin accretion and larger dunes. In subsequent years, these facies became truncated and replaced with facies associated with smaller dune sets. This analysis shows that unit bars generally become truncated more laterally than vertically and, thus, they lose the high-angle bar margin deposits and smaller scale bar-top deposits. In general, the only fragments that remain of the unit bars are dune sets, thus making identification of the original unit barform problematic. This novel data set has implications for what may ultimately become preserved in the rock record.

Salt marsh morphodynamics: An investigation of tidal flows and marsh channel equilibrium

Although numerous field studies have evaluated flow and transport processes in salt marsh channels, the overall role of channels in delivering and removing material from salt marsh platforms is still poorly characterised. In this paper, we consider this issue based on a numerical hydrodynamic model for a prototype marsh system and on a field survey of the cross-sectional geometry of a marsh channel network. Results of the numerical simulations indicate that the channel transfers approximately three times the volume of water that would be estimated from mass balance considerations alone. Marsh platform roughness exerts a significant influence on the partitioning of discharge between the channel and the marsh platform edge, alters flow patterns on the marsh platform due to its effects on channel-to-platform transfer and also controls the timing of peak discharge relative to marsh-edge overtopping. Although peak channel discharges and velocities are associated with the flood tide and marsh inundation, a larger volume of water is transferred by the channel during ebb flows, a portion of which transfer takes place after the tidal height is below the marsh platform. Detailed surveys of the marsh channels crossing a series of transects at Upper Stiffkey Marsh, north Norfolk, England, show that the total channel cross-sectional area increases linearly with catchment area in the inner part of the marsh, which is consistent with the increase in shoreward tidal prism removed by the channels. Toward the marsh edge, however, a deficit in the total cross-sectional area develops, suggesting that discharge partitioning between the marsh channels and the marsh platform edge may also be expressed in the morphology of marsh channel systems.

EFFECT OF COLD FRONTS ON THE BENTHIC MACROFAUNA OF EXPOSED SANDY BEACHES WITH CONTRASTING MORPHODYNAMICS

The aim of this study was to determine the short-term environmental changes caused by the simultaneous passage of a high energy event on two sandy beaches with different morphodynamic states and their influence on the richness, abundance and distribution of the benthic macrofauna. Two microtidal exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics were simultaneously sampled before, during and after the passage of two cold fronts in Santa Catarina. The reflective beach showed a higher susceptibility to the increase in wave energy produced by the passage of cold fronts and was characterized by rapid and intense erosive processes in addition to a capacity for rapid restoration of the beach profile. As regards the dissipative beach, erosive processes operated more slowly and progressively, and it was characterized further by a reduced capacity for the recovery of its sub-aerial profile. Although the intensity of the environmental changes was distinct as between the morphodynamic extremes, changes in the composition, richness and abundance of macrobenthos induced by cold fronts were not evident for either of the beaches studied. On the other hand, alterations in the distribution pattern of the macrofauna were observed on the two beaches and were related to variations in sea level, position of the swash zone and moisture gradient, suggesting that short-term accommodations in the spatial structure of the macrobenthos occur in response to changes in environmental conditions in accordance with the temporal dynamics characteristic of each morphodynamic state.

Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and Sao Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay-headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range). (C) 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon

This study documents two different modes of berm development: (I) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode I sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Numerical modelling of hydrodinamics and morphodynamics for the Friuli Venezia Giulia coast

Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM) should be considered as one of the main components to be able to implement sustainable development. Friuli Venezia Giulia region with its 93 km of coastline is committed to investing its resources in projects aimed at studying the evolution of the coast. In this report, reference will be made to the area in front of the municipality of Grado, where the Banco della Mula di Muggia is located. Starting from previous studies and surveys, morphology of the coastal stretch between the municipality of Grado and the mouth of the Isonzo river will be reproduced through numerical modeling tools, to simulate its hydrodynamic behavior on an annual basis and also as a function of significant events such as storms, calm events or floods of the Isonzo river. The software employed will be the MIKE by DHI with in particular the implementation of "Littoral Drift" and "MIKE 21/3" Coupled models. The first to calculate net and gross longshore transport on an annual basis along a transverse profile, the latter is a modelling system for coastal application that will be used for the analysis of significant events effects. Although not primary focus of this work, there will be included an initial review of finger bars. These particular sand formations are present at the south-western border of the Banco della Mula di Muggia and may have an impact on it. This work could form the starting point of future investigations to build on the findings of this report.

Headland-bay beach planform stability of Santa Catarina State and of the Northern Coast of São Paulo State

This paper presents the results of the planform stability classification for the headland-bay beaches of the State of Santa Catarina and of the Northern Coast of São Paulo, based on the application of the Parabolic Bay-Shape Equation (PBSE) to aerial images of the beaches, using the software MEPBAY®. For this purpose, georeferenced mosaics of the QuickBird2® satellite imagery (for the State of Santa Catarina) and vertical aerial photographs (for the northern coast of São Paulo State) were used. Headland-bay beach planform stability can be classified as: (1) in static equilibrium, (2) in dynamic equilibrium, (3) unstable or (4) in a state of natural beach reshaping. Static equilibrium beaches are the most frequent along the coast of the State of Santa Catarina and the Northern Shore of São Paulo, notably along the most rugged sectors of the coast and those with experiencing lower fluvial discharge. By comparison, dynamic equilibrium beaches occur primarily on the less rugged sectors of the coast and along regions with higher fluvial discharge. Beaches in a state of natural beach reshaping have only been found in SC, associated with stabilized estuarine inlets or port breakwaters. However, it is not possible to classify any of these beaches as unstable because only one set of images was used. No clear relation was observed between a beach's planform stability and other classification factors, such as morphodynamics or orientation.