Extreme events and the morphodynamics of gravel-dominated coastal barriers: Strengthening uncertain ground

The long-term morphodynamic ordering of gravel-dominated coastal systems (GDCS), many of which serve as coastal defences in northwest Europe, is dominated by extreme events that generate barrier crest overflow. An understanding of this morphodynamic ordering is fraught with several unresolved difficulties. These are related to the twin problems of the inadequacy of pertinent morphodynamic parameterisation and of obtaining data from modern shores enabling such parameterisation. Major uncertainties concern the timing of over-crest flow in terms of return period of extreme elevation; the intensity and structure of the overflow field; antecedent beachface characteristics in response to storms; the rate of relative sea-level change; tidal stage control; and barrier resistance to forcing, itself determined by a number of unknowns including barrier form and size, sediment size and mosaics, and barrier resilience. While generalised extreme value modelling may provide a means of characterising overwashing return-period and its variability, exceptional tsunami events are outside the scope of such modelling. The characterisation of GDCS morphodynamics in terms of the forcing extreme events will necessitate integrating some or all of these parameters into a single model.

Contribution to the study of the Ria de Aveiro inlet morphodynamics

Over the years it was observed at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet, near the head of the north breakwater, a depth increase that might threaten the stability of this structure. A trend of accretion in the navigation channel of this lagoon is observed, endangering the navigation in this region. In order to understand the origin of these and other trends observed, the knowledge of the sediment transport in the study area is imperative. The main aim of this work is understanding the dominant physical processes in the sediment transport of sediment at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet and adjacent area, improving knowledge of this region morphodynamics. The methodology followed in this study consisted in the analyzes of the topohydrographic surveys performed by the Administration of the Aveiro Harbor, and in the numerical simulations results performed with the morphodynamic modeling system MORSYS2D. The analysis of the surveys was performed by studying the temporal evolution of the bathymetry. The numerical analysis was based on the implementation of the model at the study area, sensitivity analysis of the formulations used to compute the sediment transport to the variation of input parameters (e.g. depth, sediment size, tidal currents) and analysis of the sediment uxes and bathymetric changes predicted. The simulations considered as sediment transport forcing the tidal currents only and the coupled forcing of tides and waves. Considering the wave e ect as sediment transport forcing, both monochromatic waves and a wave regime were simulated. The results revealed that the observed residual sediment transport patterns are generated due to the channel con guration. Inside the lagoon the uxes are mainly induced by the tidal currents action, restricting the action of waves to the inlet and adjacent coast. In the navigation channel the residual sediment uxes predicted are directed o - shore with values between 7 and 40 m3=day generating accretions of approximately 10 m3=day for the shallower region and 35 m3=day for the region between the tidal gauge and the tri^angulo das mar es. At the inlet, the residual uxes are approximately 30 m3=day inducing trends of erosion of approximately 20 m3=day. At the North side of the nearshore accretion is predicted, while at the South side is predicted erosion, at the rates of 250 and 1500 m3=day, respectively. It was also concluded that the waves with higher contribution to the residual sediment uxes are those with heights between 4 and 5 m. However, the storm waves with heights bigger than 5 m, despite their 10% of frequency of occurrence are responsible for 25% of the observed sediment transport.

Beach morphodynamics at Nazaré coast using video monitoring

Tese de doutoramento, Geologia (Geodinâmica Externa), Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Ciências, 2014

Quantification of the relation between surface morphodynamics and subsurface sedimentological product in sandy braided rivers

This study uses digital elevation models and ground-penetrating radar to quantify the relation between the surface morphodynamics and subsurface sedimentology in the sandy braided South Saskatchewan River, Canada. A unique aspect of the methodology is that both digital elevation model and ground-penetrating radar data were collected from the same locations in 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007, thus enabling the surface morphodynamics to be tied explicitly to the associated evolving depositional product. The occurrence of a large flood in 2005 also allowed the influence of discharge to be assessed with respect to the processproduct relationship. The data demonstrate that the morphology of the study reach evolved even during modest discharges, but more extensive erosion was caused by the large flood. In addition, the study reach was dominated by compound bars before the flood, but switched to being dominated by unit bars during and after the flood. The extent to which the subsurface deposits (the product') were modified by the surface morphodynamics (the process') was quantified using the changes in radar-facies recorded in sequential ground-penetrating radar surveys. These surveys reveal that during the large flood there was an increase in the proportion of facies associated with bar margin accretion and larger dunes. In subsequent years, these facies became truncated and replaced with facies associated with smaller dune sets. This analysis shows that unit bars generally become truncated more laterally than vertically and, thus, they lose the high-angle bar margin deposits and smaller scale bar-top deposits. In general, the only fragments that remain of the unit bars are dune sets, thus making identification of the original unit barform problematic. This novel data set has implications for what may ultimately become preserved in the rock record.

Salt marsh morphodynamics: An investigation of tidal flows and marsh channel equilibrium

Although numerous field studies have evaluated flow and transport processes in salt marsh channels, the overall role of channels in delivering and removing material from salt marsh platforms is still poorly characterised. In this paper, we consider this issue based on a numerical hydrodynamic model for a prototype marsh system and on a field survey of the cross-sectional geometry of a marsh channel network. Results of the numerical simulations indicate that the channel transfers approximately three times the volume of water that would be estimated from mass balance considerations alone. Marsh platform roughness exerts a significant influence on the partitioning of discharge between the channel and the marsh platform edge, alters flow patterns on the marsh platform due to its effects on channel-to-platform transfer and also controls the timing of peak discharge relative to marsh-edge overtopping. Although peak channel discharges and velocities are associated with the flood tide and marsh inundation, a larger volume of water is transferred by the channel during ebb flows, a portion of which transfer takes place after the tidal height is below the marsh platform. Detailed surveys of the marsh channels crossing a series of transects at Upper Stiffkey Marsh, north Norfolk, England, show that the total channel cross-sectional area increases linearly with catchment area in the inner part of the marsh, which is consistent with the increase in shoreward tidal prism removed by the channels. Toward the marsh edge, however, a deficit in the total cross-sectional area develops, suggesting that discharge partitioning between the marsh channels and the marsh platform edge may also be expressed in the morphology of marsh channel systems.

EFFECT OF COLD FRONTS ON THE BENTHIC MACROFAUNA OF EXPOSED SANDY BEACHES WITH CONTRASTING MORPHODYNAMICS

The aim of this study was to determine the short-term environmental changes caused by the simultaneous passage of a high energy event on two sandy beaches with different morphodynamic states and their influence on the richness, abundance and distribution of the benthic macrofauna. Two microtidal exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics were simultaneously sampled before, during and after the passage of two cold fronts in Santa Catarina. The reflective beach showed a higher susceptibility to the increase in wave energy produced by the passage of cold fronts and was characterized by rapid and intense erosive processes in addition to a capacity for rapid restoration of the beach profile. As regards the dissipative beach, erosive processes operated more slowly and progressively, and it was characterized further by a reduced capacity for the recovery of its sub-aerial profile. Although the intensity of the environmental changes was distinct as between the morphodynamic extremes, changes in the composition, richness and abundance of macrobenthos induced by cold fronts were not evident for either of the beaches studied. On the other hand, alterations in the distribution pattern of the macrofauna were observed on the two beaches and were related to variations in sea level, position of the swash zone and moisture gradient, suggesting that short-term accommodations in the spatial structure of the macrobenthos occur in response to changes in environmental conditions in accordance with the temporal dynamics characteristic of each morphodynamic state.

Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and Sao Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay-headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range). (C) 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon

This study documents two different modes of berm development: (I) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode I sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Post-glacial sea-level changes around the Australian margin : a review

It has been known since Rhodes Fairbridge’s first attempt to establish a global pattern of Holocene sea-level change by combining evidence from Western Australia and from sites in the northern hemisphere that the details of sea-level history since the Last Glacial Maximum vary considerably across the globe. The Australian region is relatively stable tectonically and is situated in the ‘far-field’ of former ice sheets. It therefore preserves important records of post-glacial sea levels that are less complicated by neotectonics or glacio-isostatic adjustments. Accordingly, the relative sea-level record of this region is dominantly one of glacio-eustatic (ice equivalent) sea-level changes. The broader Australasian region has provided critical information on the nature of post-glacial sea level, including the termination of the Last Glacial Maximum when sea level was approximately 125 m lower than present around 21,000–19,000 years BP, and insights into meltwater pulse 1A between 14,600 and 14,300 cal. yr BP. Although most parts of the Australian continent reveals a high degree of tectonic stability, research conducted since the 1970s has shown that the timing and elevation of a Holocene highstand varies systematically around its margin. This is attributed primarily to variations in the timing of the response of the ocean basins and shallow continental shelves to the increased ocean volumes following ice-melt, including a process known as ocean siphoning (i.e. glacio-hydro-isostatic adjustment processes). Several seminal studies in the early 1980s produced important data sets from the Australasian region that have provided a solid foundation for more recent palaeo-sea-level research. This review revisits these key studies emphasising their continuing influence on Quaternary research and incorporates relatively recent investigations to interpret the nature of post-glacial sea-level change around Australia. These include a synthesis of research from the Northern Territory, Queensland, New South Wales, South Australia and Western Australia. A focus of these more recent studies has been the re-examination of: (1) the accuracy and reliability of different proxy sea-level indicators; (2) the rate and nature of post-glacial sea-level rise; (3) the evidence for timing, elevation, and duration of mid-Holocene highstands; and, (4) the notion of mid- to late Holocene sea-level oscillations, and their basis. Based on this synthesis of previous research, it is clear that estimates of past sea-surface elevation are a function of eustatic factors as well as morphodynamics of individual sites, the wide variety of proxy sea-level indicators used, their wide geographical range, and their indicative meaning. Some progress has been made in understanding the variability of the accuracy of proxy indicators in relation to their contemporary sea level, the inter-comparison of the variety of dating techniques used and the nuances of calibration of radiocarbon ages to sidereal years. These issues need to be thoroughly understood before proxy sea-level indicators can be incorporated into credible reconstructions of relative sea-level change at individual locations. Many of the issues, which challenged sea-level researchers in the latter part of the twentieth century, remain contentious today. Divergent opinions remain about: (1) exactly when sea level attained present levels following the most recent post-glacial marine transgression (PMT); (2) the elevation that sea-level reached during the Holocene sea-level highstand; (3) whether sea-level fell smoothly from a metre or more above its present level following the PMT; (4) whether sea level remained at these highstand levels for a considerable period before falling to its present position; or (5) whether it underwent a series of moderate oscillations during the Holocene highstand.

Stability shear stress and equilibrium cross-sectional geometry of sheltered tidal channels

This study relates tidal channel cross-sectional area (A) to peak spring discharge (Q) via a physical mechanism, namely the stability shear stress ( tau sub(S)) just necessary to maintain a zero gradient in net along-channel sediment transport. It is assumed that if bed shear stress ( tau ) is greater than tau sub(S), net erosion will occur, increasing A, and reducing tau similar to (Q/A) super(2) back toward tau sub(S). If tau < tau sub(S) there will be net deposition, reducing A and increasing tau toward tau sub(S). A survey of the literature allows estimates of Q and A at 242 sections in 26 separate sheltered tidal systems. Assuming a single value of tau sub(S) characterizes the entire length of a given tidal channel, it is predicted that along-channel geometry will follow the relation Ah sub(R) super(1) super(/) super(6) similar to Q. Along-channel regressions of the form Ah sub(R) super(1) super(/) super(6) similar to Q super( beta ) give a mean observed value for beta of 1.00 plus or minus 0.06, which is consistent with this concept. Results indicate that a lower bound on tau sub(S) (and an upper bound on A) for stable channels is provided by the critical shear stress ( tau sub(C)) just capable of initiating sediment motion. Observed tau sub(S) is found to vary among all systems as a function of spring tidal range (R sub(sp)) according to the relation tau sub(S) approximately 2.3 R sub(sp) super(0.79) tau sub(C). Observed deviations from uniform tau sub(S) along individual channels are associated with along-channel variation in the direction of maximum discharge (i.e., flood-versus ebb-dominance).

Integrated coastal geoengineering approach for maritime environments

This dissertation introduces several methodological approaches which integrate a proposed coastal management model in an interdisciplinary perspective. The research presented herein is displayed as a set of publications comprising different thematic outlooks. The thesis develops an integrated coastal geoengineering approach which is intrinsically linked to the studied maritime environments. From sandy coasts and marine works to rocky platforms and sea cliffs, this study includes field work between Caminha – Figueira da Foz (NW Portugal) and Galicia (NW Spain). The research also involves an analysis and geological-geotechnical characterisation of natural rock (armourstone) and artificial units (concrete blocks) applied to coastal structures. The main goal is to contribute to the characterisation and re-evaluation of georesources and to determine armourstone suitability and availability from its source (quarry). It was also important to diagnose the geomaterials in situ concerning their degradation/deterioration level on the basis of the current status of the coastal protection works in order to facilitate more efficient monitoring and maintenance, with economic benefits. In the rocky coast approach the coastal blocks were studied along the platform, but also the geoforms were studied from a coastal morphodynamics point of view. A shoreline evolution analysis was developed for sandy coasts through Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) extension. In addition, the spatial and statistical analysis applied to sea cliffs allowed the establishment of susceptibility zones to erosion and hazardous areas. All of these studies have different purposes and results however, there is a common denominator – GIS mapping. Hence, apart from the studied coastal environment, there is an integrated system which includes a sequence of procedures and methodologies that persisted during the research period. This is a step forward in the study of different coastal environments by using almost the same methodologies. This will allow the characterisation, monitoring and assessment of coastal protection works, rocky coasts, and shore platforms. With such data, it is possible to propose or recommend strategies for coastal and shoreline management based on several justifications in terms of social, economic, and environmental questions, or even provide a GIS-based planning support system reinforced by geocartographic decisions. Overall the development of the applied cartography embraces six stages which will allow the production of detailed maps of the maritime environment: (1) high-resolution aerial imagery surveys; (2) visual inspection and systematic monitoring; (3) applied field datasheet; (4) in situ evaluation; (5) scanline surveying; and (6) GIS mapping. This thesis covers fundamental matters that were developed over the course of scientific publication and as a consequence they represent the results obtained and discussed. The subjects directly related to the thesis architecture are: (i) cartography applied to coastal dynamics (including an art historical analysis as a tool to comprehend the coastal evolution and the littoral zone); (ii) georesources assessment (the role of cartography in georesources zoning, assessment and armourstone durability); (iii) coastal geoengineering applications and monitoring (Espinho pilot site in NW Portugal as an experimental field); (iv) rocky coast and shore platform studies and characterisation; (v) sandy and mixed environment approaches; (vi) coastal geosciences GIS mapping and photogrammetric surveying (coastal geoengineering); and (vii) shoreline change mapping and coastal management strategies (the CartGalicia Project as an example – NW Spain). Finally, all of these thematic areas were crucial to generate the conceptual models proposed and to shape the future of integrated coastal coastal geoengineering management.

Hydrodynamic and sediment fluxes through the inlets of the Ria Formosa

Tese de dout., Ciências do Mar, da Terra e do Ambiente (Ciências do Mar-Oceanografia Física), Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Univ. do Algarve, 2011