Ethical fashion : the human stories driving a fashion movement

This paper examines and compares two stories, the novel Helen Fleetwood (Elizabeth, 1841) and the film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), in relation to the Ethical Fashion movement. In 2005, more than 50 designers from around the world took part in The Ethical Fashion Show in Paris. This movement dictates that designers ensure that their garments are produced in an ethical manner, rather than support the ‘sweatshop’ environments of some industrialists determined to make a profit at the expense of workers rights. The momentum of the Ethical Fashion movement suggests that it is possible for fashion to be ethical, desirable and profitable in the 21st century. In 1841, after extensive research, Charlotte Elizabeth Tonna (using the pseudonym Charlotte Elizabeth) began to write about the atrocities of the factory system in industrialised England. Her novel, Helen Fleetwood, is one of the earliest examples of this kind of work, providing the reader with an extensive insight into the life of English factory workers in the mid-19th century. The story is about the Widow Green and her orphan dependents who are led, through circumstance, to leave their rural home and take up employment in the cotton mills of Manchester, with the hope of having an independent existence. Instead they discover the realities of factory life – extremely long hours, unsafe conditions, poor wages and a steady decline into extreme poverty. In his film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), director Micha X. Peled tells an alarmingly similar tale set in 21st century China. This ‘docu-drama’ (a recreation from actual interviews and diary entries) tells the story of ‘Little Jasmine’ who leaves her family’s farm to pursue an independent life in Southern China’s manufacturing district. It is not long before the realities of modern factory life are revealed to the teenage ‘heroine’ – crowded dormitories, long working hours, arbitrary fines and wages that do not compare with those of workers in the Western world. While much of the human story remains unchanged, there have been significant improvements in technology and safety in the last 165 years that result in the reality that not all clothing manufacture is performed in ‘sweatshop’ conditions. After a recent visit to a manufacturing plant in China, consultation with peers in the industry and having worked in the Australian fashion industry for many years, the author compares these stories with her own experiences.

Crucible Steel in South India-Preliminary Investigations on Crucibles from Some Newly Identified Sites

European accounts from the 17th century onwards have referred to the repute and manufacture of “wootz’, a traditional crucible steel made especially in parts of southern India in the former provinces of Golconda, Mysore and Salem. Pliny's Natural History mentions the import of iron and steel from the Seres which have been thought to refer to the ancient southern Indian kingdom of the Cheras. As yet the scale of excavations and surface surveys is too limited to link the literary accounts to archaeometallurgical evidence, although pioneering exploratory investigations have been made by scholars, especially on the pre-industrial production sites of Konasamudram and Gatihosahalli discussed in 18th-19th century European accounts. In 1991–2 during preliminary surveys of ancient base metal mining sites, Srinivasan came across unreported dumps with crucible fragments at Mel-Siruvalur in Tamil Nadu, and Tintini and Machnur in Karnataka and she collected surface specimens from these sites as well as from the known site of Gatihosahalli. She was also given crucible fragments by the Tamil University, Tanjavur, from an excavated megalithic site at Kodumanal, dated to ca 2nd c. Bc, mentioned in Tamil Sangam literature (ca 3rd c. BC-3rd c. AD), and very near Karur, the ancient capital of the Sangam Cheras. Analyses of crucible fragments from the surface collection at Mel-Siruvalur showed several iron prills with a uniform pearlitic structure of high-carbon hypereutectoid steel (∼1–1.5% C) suggesting that the end product was uniformly a high-carbon steel of a structure consistent with those of high-carbon steels used successfully to experimentally replicate the watered steel patterns on ‘Damascus’ swords. Investigations indicate that the process was of carburisation of molten low carbon iron (m.p. 1400° C) in crucibles packed with carbonaceous matter. The fabric of crucibles from all the above mentioned sites appears similar. Preliminary investigations on these crucibles are thus reported to establish their relationship to crucible production of carbon steel and to thereby extend the known horizons of this technology further.

Histórias desenraizadas: identidade e dupla consciência na literatura e no Facebook

Esta tese de doutorado tem como objetivo central discutir a situação de pessoas que se encontram em trânsito, desterritorializadas, vivendo intensos deslocamentos e que, por meio de relatos literários ou das novas narrativas digitais nas redes sociais, exteriorizaram um sentimento de duplicidade, denominado dupla consciência. Nesse sentido, o contraponto é a autobiografia do escritor chileno-americano Ariel Dorfman, escolhida como o referencial literário e comparada às narrativas produzidas em blogs ou, mais especificamente, na interface do Facebook, uma rede social que estimula relacionamentos virtuais e trocas de informações simultâneas. Outros escritores biculturais, que explicitaram sua biculturalidade e, consequentemente, sua dupla consciência, também foram contemplados no trabalho, tais como Todorov, Gloria Anzaldúa e Garcilaso de La Vega. Para tanto, além de uma revisão bibliográfica, contextualizando uma sociedade em movimento, cada vez mais desterritorializada, fluida, hipermoderna, que sofreu impactos em sua dinâmica interna, foi realizada também uma observação participante em alguns perfis no Facebook e em determinados posts, comentários que denotavam o sentimento de dupla consciência e outras manifestações sobre um estado de duplicidade interior. As narrativas propostas pelos escritores foram comparadas às novas narrativas produzidas em ambientes digitais. Se, antes, a literatura e a imprensa caracterizavam-se como meios de produção e propagação do discurso sobre dilemas culturais em razão de deslocamentos constantes, atualmente, as redes sociais somaram-se a esses meios e estão à disposição do cidadão comum, que pode ter sua cultura de origem, seus parentes e amigos aproximados no ciberespaço

Medieval Irish vision literature: a genre study

This dissertation examines medieval literary accounts of visions of the afterlife with an origin or provenance in Ireland from the perspective of genre, analysing their structural and literary characteristics both synchronically and diachronically. To this end, I have developed a new typology of medieval vision literature. I address the question in what manner the internationally attested genre of vision literature is adapted and developed in an Irish literary milieu. I explore this central research question through an interrogation of the typological unity of the key texts, both in formal arrangement and in the eschatological themes they express. My analysis of the structure and rhetoric of these narratives reveals the primary role of identity strategies, question-and-answer patterns and exhortation for their narrative cohesion and didactic function. In addition, I was able to make a formal distinction at text-level between the adaptation of the genre as an autonomous unit and the adaptation of thematic motifs as topoi. This further enabled me to nuance the distribution of characteristic features in the genre. My analysis of the spatial and temporal aspects of the eschatological journey confirms a preoccupation with personal eschatology. It reveals a close connection between the development of the aspects of graded access and trial in the genre and a growing awareness of an interim state of the soul after death. Finally, my dissertation provides new editions, translations and analyses of primary sources. My research breaks new ground in the hitherto underexplored area of genre adaptation in Ireland. In addition, it contributes significantly to our understanding of the nature of vision literature both in an Irish and a European context, and to our knowledge of the transmission of eschatological thought in the Latin West. Discusses the visions of: Laisrén, Fursa, Adomnán, Lóchán, Tnugdal, Owein and Visio Sancti Pauli Redactions VI and XI.

Vertraute Fremde? Jens Baggesens und H.C. Andersens Reisen durch Deutschland:Fremdheitswahrnehmung und ihre literarische Gestaltung in "Labyrinten" und "Skyggebilleder"

Jens Baggesen and H.C. Andersen are both aspiring young authors when they set out on their respective journeys to Germany. The literary accounts of their travels - Labyrinten and Skyggebilleder - show how the authors perceive a foreign country, which, despite having a culture closely linked to their own, still contains elements that strike them as being unfamiliar and even bizarre. Their curiosity towards the strange features they encounter is accompanied by a strong desire to reaffirm their own national and cultural identity, forever relying on the comfort of the familiar. When confronted with experiences of strangeness and unfamiliarity that threaten to alienate them, both authors develop similar literary strategies. The poetical programmes that both writers implicitly subscribe to are illustrated in the way they perceive strange and alien elements and are therefore fundamentally and intrinsically interlinked with their aesthetic convictions as writers.

‘You can interview me, but I don’t have a story’: Local Accounts of Wandering Women, Rewondering Queensland Landscapes.

This paper investigates how contemporary works of women’s travel writing are reworking canonical formations of environmental literature by presenting imaginative accounts of travel writing that are both literal and metaphorical. In this context, the paper considers how women who travel/write may intersect the spatial hybridities of travel writing and nature writing, and in doing so, create a new genre of environmental literature that is not only ecologically sensitive but gendered. As the role of female travel writers in generating this knowledge is immense but largely unexamined, this paper will investigate how a feminist geography can be applied, both critically and creatively, to local accounts of travel. It will draw on my own travels around Queensland in an attempt to explore how many female storytellers situate themselves, in and against, various discourses of mobility and morality.

The excavation report as a literary genre: traditional practice in Britain

Although ways of thinking about the past have changed, in Britain the reporting of excavations has followed a series of shared conventions for nearly 100 years. This article considers two of them. It investigates the relationship between accounts of stratigraphic evidence and the publication of the associated artefacts and ecofacts and suggests that it results from the combination of two separate intellectual traditions in the late nineteenth century. It also identifies certain widely shared proportions between the separate components of excavation monographs published over a long period of time. Their existence has never been acknowledged. The excavation report has become a well-established literary genre and authors who are familiar with such texts unconsciously reproduce the same structures in their writing.

The History of the works of the learned ... containing impartial accounts and accurate abstracts of the most valuable books published in Great-Britain and foreign parts. Interspers'd with dissertations on several curious and intertaining subjects, critical reflections, and memoirs of the most eminent writers in all branches of polite literature. Jan. 1737-Dec. 1743.

There are two volumes for each year, each volume and monthly number having a t.-p. The general title-pages for the year 1737 read: The History of the works of the learned: giving a general view of the state of learning throughout Europe.

Fasti hellenici. The civil and literary chronology of Greece, from the "CXXIVth Olympiad" to the death of Augustus.

Vols. I and III dated 1834; vol. II, 2d edition, with additions, 1827.

Children's Fiction About 9/11: Ethnic, Heroic and National Identities

In this study, Lampert examines how cultural identities are constructed within fictional texts for young people written about the attacks on the Twin Towers. It identifi es three significant identity categories encoded in 9/11 books for children:ethnic identities, national identities, and heroic identities,arguing that the identities formed within the selected children’s texts are in flux, privileging performances of identities that are contingent on post-9/11 politics. Looking at texts including picture books, young adult fiction, and a selection of DC Comics, Lampert finds in post-9/11 children’s literature a co-mingling of xenophobia and tolerance; a binaried competition between good and evil and global harmony and national insularity; and a lauding of both the commonplace hero and the super-human. The shifting identities evident in texts that are being produced for children about 9/11 offer implicit and explicit accounts of what constitutes good citizenship, loyalty to nation and community, and desirable attributes in a Western post-9/11 context. This book makes an original contribution to the field of children’s literature by providing a focused and sustained analysis of how texts for children about 9/11 contribute to formations of identity in these complex times of cultural unease and global unrest.

Consumers' accounts of perceived risk online and the influence of communication sources

The purpose of this paper is to extend marketing knowledge into perceived risk in online transactions beyond the current positivistic, hypotheses-driven research by providing qualitative insights into how individuals construct their accounts of perceived risk online. Additionally, the study reported in this paper aims to explore how communication sources influence both these subjective constructions and individuals' behavioural experiences with transaction activity on the web. Design/methodology/approach - The study was developed within a grounded theory method.Ten in-depth interviews were conducted which were analysed using constant comparison of incidents procedures to provide rich descriptions of the interviewees' subjective perceptions and lived experiences with online transaction activity. Findings - The findings provide insights into how the human clement is present in individuals'perceptions and constructions of their accounts of the risk involved online.The findings also identify the influence of mass communication sources on the construction of these accounts. The study provides insights into whether change agent communication sources, such as marketers or web designers,influence consumers' behaviours towards online transaction activity through mediating their perceptions of the risks involved. The study also reveals how social communication networks influence the interviewees' decisions to use the web (or transaction activities, in particular online purchasing, and how the group in this study might act as a communication source to influence others. Research limitations/Implications - While the findings cannot be generalised to the internet population overall, the sample used was able to provide relevant information regarding the phenomenon of interest. Future research should continue to examine perceived risk and the influence of communications sources, such as e-mail, discussion groups and virtual communities. Originality/value - The value of the paper lies in permitting the participants to account for perceived risk for themselves. The findings ex.plore what this means at increasing levels of personal relevance and the influence of communication sources to create, sustain or mediate perceptions of this phenomenon.

Differences between journalistic and academic accounts of child sexual abuse in Australia

The paper uses qualitative textual analysis to compare journalistic and academic accounts of child sexual abuse. There are seven main differences. Academic accounts suggest higher levels of neglect, emotional abuse, and physical abuse than sexual abuse in Australia, by contrast, journalistic accounts highlight sexual abuse. Academic accounts suggest that child sexual abuse in Australia is decreasing; journalistic accounts suggest that it is increasing. Academic accounts suggest that the majority of cases of child sexual abuse are perpetrated by family members; journalistic accounts focus on abuse by institutional figures (teachers, priests) or by strangers. Academic accounts have shown that innocent sexual play is a normal part of childhood development; journalistic accounts suggest that any sexual play is either a sign of abuse, or in itself constitutes sexual abuse. Academic accounts suggest that one of the best ways to prevent sexual abuse is for children to receive sex education; journalistic accounts suggest that children finding out about sex leads to sexual abuse. Academic accounts can gather data from the victims; journalistic accounts are excluded from doing so. Academic researchers talk to abusers in order to understand how child sexual abuse can be prevented; journalistic accounts exclude the voices of child sexual abusers.

Accounts of the visual art classroom : catering for artistically talented students

Inclusive education practices call for the diverse and individual needs of all students to be met satisfactorily. The needs and experiences of artistically talented students in Australian visual art classrooms are currently unknown. This study addresses this gap in research through an inquiry into the experiences of artistically talented students and their teachers in visual art classrooms, by examining the accounts of a group of students and teachers at one high school in South East Queensland. This study is significant as it provides teachers, parents and others involved in the education of artistically talented students with additional means to plan and cater for the educational needs of artistically talented students. Teacher and student accounts of the visual art classroom in this study indicated that identification processes for artistically talented students are unclear and contradictory. Furthermore, teacher and student accounts of their experiences presented a wide variety of conceptions of the visual art classroom and point towards an individualised approach to learning for artistically talented students. This study also discovered a mismatch between assessment practices in the subject visual art and assessment of art in the ‘real world’. Specifically, this study proposes a renewal of programs for artistically talented students, and recommends a revision of current procedures for the identification of artistically talented students in visual art classrooms.

Chart of accounts : a framework for measuring the economic and social contributions by older Australians

National Seniors Australia (2008) acknowledged the huge contributions that older people have made to Australian society in its policy statement, AdvantAGE Australia. National Seniors Australia commissioned this study to find out more about the extent of these contributions and the factors that influence these contributions. The key outcome of this study is a framework or ‘Chart of Accounts’ that allows users to a) track the participation of older Australians in paid and unpaid work; and b) estimate the value of economic and social contributions by older Australians as well as the value of losses for not utilising the knowledge and skills that older Australians have built up over a lifetime. Users can also make predictions of future contributions and participation in paid and unpaid work by using existing data as the baseline.

Portfolio size effect in retirement accounts : what does it imply for lifecycle asset allocation funds?

Lifecycle funds offered by retirement plan providers allocate aggressively to risky asset classes when the employee participants are young, gradually switching to more conservative asset classes as they grow older and approach retirement. This approach focuses on maximizing growth of the accumulation fund in the initial years and preserving its value in the later years. The authors simulate terminal wealth outcomes based on conventional lifecycle asset allocation rules as well as on contrarian strategies that reverse the direction of asset switching. The evidence suggests that the growth in portfolio size over time significantly impacts the asset allocation decision. Due to the portfolio size effect that is observed by the authors, the terminal value of accumulation in retirement accounts is influenced more by the asset allocation strategy adopted in later years relative to that adopted in early years. By mechanistically switching to conservative assets in the later years of a plan, lifecycle strategies sacrifice significant growth opportunity and prove counterproductive to the participant's wealth accumulation objective. The authors' conclude that this sacrifice does not seem to be compensated adequately in terms of reducing the risk of potentially adverse outcomes.