Study on dehairing of Australian cashmere fibres

Dehairing is the process that removes coarse hair and other impurities from a cashmere fleece in order to obtain luxury fine cashmere fibres. This study has examined and optimised the machine settings on a locally produced cashmere dehairing unit which has led to improvement in the quality of dehaired cashmere fibres. The improved dehairing unit is now in commercial use, adding significant value to the local cashmere industry.

Weathering, fibre strength and colour properties of processed white cashmere

Weathering refers to the degradation of wool fibres that occur during growth from exposure of the fleece to sunlight, water and air. Weathering damage to Merino wool reduces quantities of fibre that are harvested, reduces length in both raw and processed wools, reduces spinning performance and dyeing outcomes. This work aimed to aimed to quantify if and to what extent weathering occurred in 38 lots of commercial dehaired white cashmere and cashmere top sourced from traditional and new origins of production and the extent of any association between weathering and tensile strength properties of the dehaired cashmere and cashmere top. The cashmere was tested for physical properties, bundle tenacity and extension, tristimulus values brightness (Y) and yellowness (Y-Z) and reflectance. Dye uptake was used as an index of weathering. Linear models, relating to weathering, bundle tenacity and Y-Z were fitted to origin and other objective measurements. Mean attributes (range) were: mean fibre diameter, 17.0 μm (13.5–21.3 μm); bundle tenacity of tops, 10.3 cN/tex (8.3–12.9 cN/tex), for dehaired fibre, 10.1 cN/tex (9.1–11.4 cN/tex). Stain uptake varied from 0.92 to 6.34 mg/g fibre indicating a six-fold variation in the extent of weathering. Both the extent of weathering and the bundle tenacity of commercial lots of cashmere were affected by the origin of the cashmere. Increased weathering reduced bundle tenacity, bundle extension, increased the yellowness and reduced reflectance of white cashmere. Bundle tenacity of cashmere declined as fibre diameter variability increased from 20 to 22.5%. For the samples tested, the cashmere from China, Mongolia, Afghanistan and Iran showed more weathering than cashmere from Australia, New Zealand and the USA. The differences in the extent of weathering and of bundle tenacity between cashmere from different origins were of commercial significance.

Dehairing Australian alpaca fibres with a cashmere dehairing machine

Many classes of alpaca fibres contain a certain amount of coarse fibres, which are strong and stiff, and cause discomfort to the end users of the alpaca fibre products. It is therefore desirable to separate the coarse fibres from the fine alpaca fibres. This paper reports trial results on alpaca dehairing using a cashmere dehairing machine. The diameters of alpaca fleece, dehaired alpaca fibres and removed alpaca fibres were analysed, and the fibre lengths before and after dehairing have been compared. The results indicate that it is feasible to dehair alpaca fibres using a cashmere dehairing facility. The dehaired alpaca fibres are cleaner, bulkier and softer, with around 1.5 μm reduction in average fibre diameter, but the dehairing process shortens the dehaired fibre length considerably. The dehairing effectiveness of coarse fibre removal using the cashmere dehairing technology has also been discussed in this paper.

Variation in the softness and fibre curvature of cashmere, alpaca, mohair and other rare animal fibres

Softness of apparel textiles is a major attribute sought by consumers. There is surprisingly little objective information on the softness properties of rare animal fibres, particularly cashmere, alpaca and mohair. Samples of these and other rare animal fibres from different origins of production and processors were objectively measured for fibre diameter, fibre curvature (FC, crimp) and resistance to compression (softness). While there were curvilinear responses of resistance to compression to FC and to mean fibre diameter, FC accounted for much more of the variance in resistance to compression. Fibre type was an important determinant of resistance to compression. The softest fibres were alpaca, mohair and cashgora and all of the fibres measured were softer than most Merino wool. Quivet, llama, camel, guanaco, vicuña, yak wool, bison wool, dehaired cow down and Angora rabbit were also differentiated from alpaca, mohair and cashmere. There were important differences in the softness and FC of cashmere from different origins with cashmere from newer origins of production (Australia, New Zealand and USA) having lower resistance to compression than cashmere from traditional sources of China and Iran. Cashmere from different origins was differentiated on the basis of resistance to compression, FC and fibre diameter. Cashgora was differentiated from cashmere by having a lower FC and lower resistance to compression. There were minority effects of colour and fibre diameter variation on resistance to compression of cashmere. The implications of these findings for the identification and use of softer raw materials are discussed.

The hairiness of worsted wool and cashmere yarns and the impact of fiber curvature on hairiness

In this study, a range of carefully selected wool and cashmere yarns as well as their blends were used to examine the effects of fiber curvature and blend ratio on yarn hairiness. The results indicate that yarns spun from wool fibers with a higher curvature have lower yarn hairiness than yarns spun from similar wool of a lower curvature. For blend yarns made from wool and cashmere of similar diameter, yarn hairiness increases with the increase in the cashmere content in the yarn. This is probably due to the presence of increased proportion of the shorter cashmere fibers in the surface regions of the yarn, leading to increased yarn hairiness. A modified hairiness composition model is used to explain these results and the likely origin of leading and trailing hairs. This model highlights the importance of yarn surface composition on yarn hairiness.

Determination of cashmere and wool fibre scale frequency by analysing diameter profiles with fast fourier transform

This paper describes a potentially faster and cheaper method of determining fibre scale frequencies. The method uses the single fibre analyser (SIFAN) to  determine the along the fibre diameter profile. This information is then analysed by the Fast Fourier Transform technique using computer software. The paper shows the close association between the mean scale frequencies determined by this method and the traditional approach using SEM.

Cashmere and wool cortical cells

This paper proposes that instead of the expensive and difficult task of examining the morphology of fibre cuticle scales that an alternative approach of examining the internal morphology of cortical cells may be faster and cheaper. Preliminary data were presented and further work is required.

FTIR and thermal analysis of cashmere and other animal fibres

In this paper, sereval varieties of animal fibres including cashmere and Australian fine Merino wool have been analysed by Fourier transform infrared microscope and differential scanning calorimeter. The results showed that both Chinese and Australian cashmere fibres started absorbing heat at a relatively higher temperature but were thermally degraded quicker than other animal fibres tested. However, the mass changes (within the temperature range of 200oC to 350oC) and associated onset temperatures varied among fibre varieties. From the attenuated total reflectance spectra, the Chinese cashmere was clearly different from Australian cashmere and wool in a peak near 1040 cm-1 wavelength for S-O stretching of cysteic acid residues. The Chinese cashmere presented a stronger absorption at 1019 cm-1 wavelength, while Australian cashmere and wool peaked at 1079 cm-1 wavelength and had a weaker absorption. Combined with thermal analysis, the normalised R-SO3 - content of cysteic acid residues to the amide II peak of the protein backbone may have potential use in identifying Australian fine Merino wool from Chinese cashmere.

An update on the Australian cashmere industry

This paper gives an up-to-date overview on the Australian cashmere industry.  It covers the development history of Australian cashmere industry, the characteristics of Australian cashmere fibres, cashmere processing and research and development in Australia.

A study on dehairing Australian greasy cashmere

Cashmere is a luxury fiber with high international demand. Australian cashmere fleece is shorn rather than hand combed, and the shorn fleece contains a large quantity of coarse guard hair. Normally raw cashmere fleece is scoured first, followed by dehairing to eliminate the coarse guard hair. But scouring the unwanted guard hair consumes a large quantity of water, and increases the cost of cashmere processing in Australia. Ideally, the guard hair should be removed first and then the fine cashmere fibers are scoured for further processing. This paper reports trial results on dehairing greasy rather than scoured Australian cashmere fleece, with the aim of reducing scouring cost and water consumption. The quality of cashmere fibers after the conventional dehairing process and the new greasy dehairing process has been assessed. The results indicate that fiber quality from the greasy dehairing process is better than that from conventional scouring then dehairing process.