BREAKING WAVES IN AN IDEAL QUARK GLUON PLASMA

We study the propagation of perturbations in the energy density in a quark gluon plasma. Expanding the Euler and continuity equations of relativistic hydrodynamics around equilibrium configurations we obtain a nonlinear differential equation called the breaking wave equation. We solve it numerically and follow the time-evolution of initially localized pulses. We find that, quite unexpectedly, these pulses live for a very long time (compared to the reaction time-scales) before breaking. In practice, they mimick the Korteweg-de Vries solitons. Their existence may have some observable consequences.

Effects of a breakwater on nearshore currents due to breaking waves /

"November 1975."

Breaking Waves on the Ocean Surface

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Washington, 2016-08

On Growth Rate of Wind Waves: Impact of Short-Scale Breaking Modulations

The wave generation model based on the rapid distortion concept significantly underestimates empirical values of the wave growth rate. As suggested before, inclusion of the aerodynamic roughness modulations effect on the amplitude of the slope-correlated surface pressure could potentially reconcile this model approach with observations. This study explores the role of short-scale breaking modulations to amplify the growth rate of modulating longer waves. As developed, airflow separations from modulated breaking waves result in strong modulations of the turbulent stress in the inner region of the modulating waves. In turn, this leads to amplifying the slope-correlated surface pressure anomalies. As evaluated, such a mechanism can be very efficient for enhancing the wind-wave growth rate by a factor of 2-3.

Simulation of the ocean surface mixed layer under the wave breaking

A one-dimensional mixed-layer model, including a Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure scheme, was implemented to investigate the dynamical and thermal structures of the ocean surface mixed layer in the northern South China Sea. The turbulent kinetic energy released through wave breaking was incorporated into the model as a source of energy at the ocean surface, and the influence of the breaking waves on the mixed layer was studied. The numerical simulations show that the simulated SST is overestimated in summer without the breaking waves. However, the cooler SST is simulated when the effect of the breaking waves is considered, the corresponding discrepancy with the observed data decreases up to 20% and the MLD calculated averagely deepens 3.8 m. Owing to the wave-enhanced turbulence mixing in the summertime, the stratification at the bottom of the mixed layer was modified and the temperature gradient spread throughout the whole thermocline compared with the concentrated distribution without wave breaking.

Wave breaking on turbulent energy budget in the ocean surface mixed layer

As an important physical process at the air-sea interface, wave movement and breaking have a significant effect on the ocean surface mixed layer (OSML). When breaking waves occur at the ocean surface, turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) is input downwards, and a sublayer is formed near the surface and turbulence vertical mixing is intensively enhanced. A one-dimensional ocean model including the Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure equations was employed in our research on variations in turbulent energy budget within OSML. The influence of wave breaking could be introduced into the model by modifying an existing surface boundary condition of the TKE equation and specifying its input. The vertical diffusion and dissipation of TKE were effectively enhanced in the sublayer when wave breaking was considered. Turbulent energy dissipated in the sublayer was about 92.0% of the total depth-integrated dissipated TKE, which is twice higher than that of non-wave breaking. The shear production of TKE decreased by 3.5% because the mean flow fields tended to be uniform due to wave-enhanced turbulent mixing. As a result, a new local equilibrium between diffusion and dissipation of TKE was reached in the wave-enhanced layer. Below the sublayer, the local equilibrium between shear production and dissipation of TKE agreed with the conclusion drawn from the classical law-of-the-wall (Craig and Banner, 1994).

Stability of periodic travelling shallow-water waves determined by Newton`s equation

We study the existence and stability of periodic travelling-wave solutions for generalized Benjamin-Bona-Mahony and Camassa-Holm equations. To prove orbital stability, we use the abstract results of Grillakis-Shatah-Strauss and the Floquet theory for periodic eigenvalue problems.

Near-bed hydrodynamics and turbulence below a large-scale plunging breaking wave over a mobile barred bed profile

Funded by The research presented in this paper is part of the SINBAD project. Grant Number: STW (12058) and EPSRC (EP/J00507X/1, EP/J005541/1)

Wave generation by the falling rock in the two-dimensional wave tank

Wave generation by the falling rock in the two-dimensional wave tank is experimentally and numerically studied, where the numerical model utilizes the boundary element method to solve the fully nonlinear potential flow theory. The wave profiles at different times are measured in the laboratory, which are also used to test the numerical model. Comparisons show that the experimental and numerical results are in good agreement, and the numerical model can be used to simulate the wave generation due to the submarine rock falling. Further numerical tests on the influences of the rock size, density, initial position and the falling angle on the wave elevation of the generated waves are performed, respectively. The results show that the size and density of the rock have strong effects on the maximum elevation of the generated wave, while the effects of the initial position and the falling angle of the rock are also significant. When the size or the density of the rock increases, the maximum elevation of the generated wave increases. The same effect on the generated wave would be produced if the initial position of the rock becomes closer to the surface, or the falling angle between the falling route and the vertical direction turns larger. In addition, the present numerical tests reveal that the submarine rock falling provides a new generation method for the breaking wave in the wave tank.

EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATION OF LINEAR BUBBLE DYNAMICS IN A VISCOELASTIC XANTHAN GEL

Oceanic bubble plumes caused by ship wakes or breaking waves disrupt sonar communi- cation because of the dramatic change in sound speed and attenuation in the bubbly fluid. Experiments in bubbly fluids have suffered from the inability to quantitatively characterize the fluid because of continuous air bubble motion. Conversely, single bubble experiments, where the bubble is trapped by a pressure field or stabilizing object, are limited in usable frequency range, apparatus complexity, or the invasive nature of the stabilizing object (wire, plate, etc.). Suspension of a bubble in a viscoelastic Xanthan gel allows acoustically forced oscilla- tions with negligible translation over a broad frequency band. Assuming only linear, radial motion, laser scattering from a bubble oscillating below, through, and above its resonance is measured. As the bubble dissolves in the gel, different bubble sizes are measured in the range 240 – 470 μm radius, corresponding to the frequency range 6 – 14 kHz. Equalization of the cell response in the raw data isolates the frequency response of the bubble. Compari- son to theory for a bubble in water shows good agreement between the predicted resonance frequency and damping, such that the bubble behaves as if it were oscillating in water.

Wave transformation and wave-driven flow across a steep coral reef

Observations of waves, setup, and wave-driven mean flows were made on a steep coral forereef and its associated lagoonal system on the north shore of Moorea, French Polynesia. Despite the steep and complex geometry of the forereef, and wave amplitudes that are nearly equal to the mean water depth, linear wave theory showed very good agreement with data. Measurements across the reef illustrate the importance of including both wave transport (owing to Stokes drift), as well as the Eulerian mean transport when computing the fluxes over the reef. Finally, the observed setup closely follows the theoretical relationship derived from classic radiation stress theory, although the two parameters that appear in the model-one reflecting wave breaking, the other the effective depth over the reef crest-must be chosen to match theory to data. © 2013 American Meteorological Society.

The influence of Langmuir turbulence on the scaling for the dissipation rate in the oceanic boundary layer

A model for estimating the turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate in the oceanic boundary layer, based on insights from rapid-distortion theory, is presented and tested. This model provides a possible explanation for the very high dissipation levels found by numerous authors near the surface. It is conceived that turbulence, injected into the water by breaking waves, is subsequently amplified due to its distortion by the mean shear of the wind-induced current and straining by the Stokes drift of surface waves. The partition of the turbulent shear stress into a shear-induced part and a wave-induced part is taken into account. In this picture, dissipation enhancement results from the same mechanism responsible for Langmuir circulations. Apart from a dimensionless depth and an eddy turn-over time, the dimensionless dissipation rate depends on the wave slope and wave age, which may be encapsulated in the turbulent Langmuir number La_t. For large La_t, or any Lat but large depth, the dissipation rate tends to the usual surface layer scaling, whereas when Lat is small, it is strongly enhanced near the surface, growing asymptotically as ɛ ∝ La_t^{-2} when La_t → 0. Results from this model are compared with observations from the WAVES and SWADE data sets, assuming that this is the dominant dissipation mechanism acting in the ocean surface layer and statistical measures of the corresponding fit indicate a substantial improvement over previous theoretical models. Comparisons are also carried out against more recent measurements, showing good order-of-magnitude agreement, even when shallow-water effects are important.

On the distortion of turbulence by a progressive surface wave

A rapid-distortion model is developed to investigate the interaction of weak turbulence with a monochromatic irrotational surface water wave. The model is applicable when the orbital velocity of the wave is larger than the turbulence intensity, and when the slope of the wave is sufficiently high that the straining of the turbulence by the wave dominates over the straining of the turbulence by itself. The turbulence suffers two distortions. Firstly, vorticity in the turbulence is modulated by the wave orbital motions, which leads to the streamwise Reynolds stress attaining maxima at the wave crests and minima at the wave troughs; the Reynolds stress normal to the free surface develops minima at the wave crests and maxima at the troughs. Secondly, over several wave cycles the Stokes drift associated with the wave tilts vertical vorticity into the horizontal direction, subsequently stretching it into elongated streamwise vortices, which come to dominate the flow. These results are shown to be strikingly different from turbulence distorted by a mean shear flow, when `streaky structures' of high and low streamwise velocity fluctuations develop. It is shown that, in the case of distortion by a mean shear flow, the tendency for the mean shear to produce streamwise vortices by distortion of the turbulent vorticity is largely cancelled by a distortion of the mean vorticity by the turbulent fluctuations. This latter process is absent in distortion by Stokes drift, since there is then no mean vorticity. The components of the Reynolds stress and the integral length scales computed from turbulence distorted by Stokes drift show the same behaviour as in the simulations of Langmuir turbulence reported by McWilliams, Sullivan & Moeng (1997). Hence we suggest that turbulent vorticity in the upper ocean, such as produced by breaking waves, may help to provide the initial seeds for Langmuir circulations, thereby complementing the shear-flow instability mechanism developed by Craik & Leibovich (1976). The tilting of the vertical vorticity into the horizontal by the Stokes drift tends also to produce a shear stress that does work against the mean straining associated with the wave orbital motions. The turbulent kinetic energy then increases at the expense of energy in the wave. Hence the wave decays. An expression for the wave attenuation rate is obtained by scaling the equation for the wave energy, and is found to be broadly consistent with available laboratory data.