Aboriginal community control and decolonizing health policy : a yarn from Australia

This chapter outlines: a brief history of Australian Aboriginal health and health policy and then moves on to demonstrate how the Victorian Aboriginal Community Controlled Health Organisation (VACCHO) undertakes its work and is an example of 'decolonizing policy in action'. Moreover, it highlights how Aboriginal participation in the development of policy and in the planning, delivery, management and evaluation of health programs enables policies and programs to respond effectively to the needs of Aboriginal people and to change future health outcomes for them. It showcases how Aboriginal decision-making has gone some way to decolonizing policymaking and has addressed the power imbalance - both of which have been critical in the improvement in Aboriginal health outcomes.

Fleshed out comic yarn : a review

Calendar Girls. By Tim Firth. Queensland Performing Arts Centre, Brisbane, April 10. AN adaptation of the 2003 film of the same name, Calendar Girls is a light piece of entertainment. Following the death of her husband John from leukaemia, Annie and her friend Chris convince the members of their local Yorkshire Women's Institute to pose for a nude calendar to raise funds to refurbish the local hospital's run-down relatives' room. This premise -- and the opportunities for comic engagement it entails -- drives the plot of Tim Firth's stage adaptation of Calendar Girls.

Having a yarn about smoking : using action research to develop a 'no smoking' policy within an Aboriginal health organisation

Objectives: This article reports on a culturally appropriate process of development of a smoke-free workplace policy within the peak Aboriginal Controlled Community Health Organisation in Victoria, Australia. Smoking is acknowledged as being responsible for at least 20% of all deaths in Aboriginal communities in Australia, and many Aboriginal health workers smoke. Methods: The smoke-free workplace policy was developed using the iterative, discursive and experience-based methodology of Participatory Action Research, combined with the culturally embedded concept of ‘having a yarn’. Results: Staff members initially identified smoking as a topic to be avoided within workplace discussions. This was due, in part, to grief (everyone had suffered a smoking related bereavement). Further, there was anxiety that discussing smoking would result in culturally difficult conflict. The use of yarning opened up a safe space for discussion and debate,enabling development of a policy that was accepted across the organisation. Conclusions: Within Aboriginal organisations, it is not sufficient to focus on the outcomes of policy development. Rather, due attention must be paid to the process employed in development of policy, particularly when that policy is directly related to an emotionally and communally weighted topic such as smoking.

Spinning a sustainable yarn: assessing the claims of Australian companies’ eco-initiatives

In Australia, few fashion brands have intervened in the design of their products or the systems around their product to tackle environmental pollution and waste. Instead, support of charities (whether social or environmental) has become conflated with sustainability in the eyes of the public.However, three established Australian brands recently put forward initiatives which explicitly tackle the pre-consumer or post-consumer waste associated with their products. In 2011, Billabong, one of the largest surfwear companies in the world, developed a collection of board shorts made from recycled bottles that are also recyclable at end of life. The initiative has been promoted in partnership with Bob Marley’s son Rohan Marley, and the graphics of the board shorts reference the Rastafarian colours and make use of Marley’s song lyrics. In this way, the company has tapped into an aspect of surf culture linked to environmental activism, in which the natural world is venerated. Two mid-market initiatives, by Metalicus and Country Road, each have a social outcome that arguably aligns to the values of their middle-class consumer base. Metalicus is spear-heading a campaign for Australian garment manufacturers to donate their pre consumer waste – fabric off-cuts – to charity Open Family Australia to be manufactured into quilts for the homeless. Country Road has partnered with the Australian Red Cross to implement a recycling scheme in which consumers donate their old Country Road garments in exchange for a Country Road gift voucher. Both strategies, while tackling waste, tell an altruistic story in which the disadvantaged can benefit from the consumption habits of the middle-class. To varying degrees, the initiative chosen by each company feeds into the stories they tell about themselves and about the consumers who purchase their clothing. However, how can we assess the impact of these schemes on waste management in real terms, or indeed the worth of each scheme in the wider context of the fashion system? This paper will assess the claims made by the companies and analyse their efficacy, suggesting that a more nuanced assessment of green claims is required, in which ‘green’ comes in many tonal variations.

Spinning a sustainable yarn : environmental sustainability and brand story in the Australian fashion industry

In the Australian fashion industry, few fashion brands have intervened in the design of their products or the systems around their product to tackle environmental pollution and waste. Instead, support of charities (whether social or environmental) has become conflated with sustainability in the eyes of the public. Thus it is difficult to assess with any accuracy fashion brands’ response to sustainability. This article aims to address this through proposing a categorization system to structure the various interventions that a company may make. This system is applied to two case studies, analysing campaigns that respond to environmental sustainability by two established Australian brands, Country Road and Billabong. The case studies demonstrate how the interventions employed by a company, at least in the Australian context, are carefully developed to align with their brand story, revealing the interplay between the intangible aspects of a brand’s positioning and the tangible, measurable impacts of their garments.

Coating of Cotton Yarn with Poly(vinyl alcohol) and Poly(N-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone) Crosslinked via Ultraviolet Radiation

The coating of cotton fiber is used in the textile industry to increase the mechanical resistance of the yarn and their resistance to vibration, friction, impact, and elongation, which are some of the forces to which the yarn is subjected during the weaving process. The main objective of this study was to investigate the use of synthetic hydrophilic polymers, poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA), and poly(N-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone) (PVP) to coat 100% cotton textile fiber, with the aim of giving the fiber temporary mechanical resistance. For the fixation of the polymer on the fiber, UV-C radiation was used as the crosslinking process. The influence of the crosslinking process was determined through tensile testing of the coated fibers. The results indicated that UV-C radiation increased the mechanical resistance of the yarn coated with PVP by up to 44% and the yarn coated with PVA by up to 67% compared with the pure cotton yarn, that is, without polymeric coating and crosslinking. This study is of great relevance, and it is important to consider that UV-C radiation dispenses with the use of chemical substances and prevents the generation of toxic waste at the end of the process. (C) 2010 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 119: 2560-2567, 2011

Crosslinking of Poly(N-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone) in the Coating of Cotton Yarn

Coating of cotton yarn is employed in the textile industry to increase the mechanical resistance of the yarns and resistance to vibration, friction, impact, and elongation, which are some of the forces to which the yarn is subjected during the weaving process. The main objective of this study is to investigate the usage of a synthetic hydrophilic polymer, poly(N-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone) (PVP), to coat 100% cotton textile yarn, aiming to give the yarn a temporary mechanical resistance. For the improvement of the mechanical resistance of the yarn, the following crosslinking processes of PVP were investigated: UV-C (ultraviolet) radiation, the Fenton and photo-Fenton reactions, and sensitized UV-C radiation. The influence of each crosslinking process was determined through tensile testing of the coated yarns. The results indicated that the best crosslinking process employed was UV-C radiation; increasing the mechanical resistance of the yarn up to 44% if compared with the pure cotton yarn, that is, without polymeric coating and crosslinking. POLYM. ENG. SCI., 51:445-453, 2011. (C) 2010 Society of Plastics Engineers

Reducing yarn hairiness with a modified yarn path in worsted ring spinning

The spinning geometry of a ring frame plays an important role, and the twist triangle is the critical region in ring spinning. Changes in the spinning geometry may affect yarn properties. This paper examines the idea of ring spinning with a "diagonal" yarn path, and the effect of such a path on yam properties, particularly hairiness. Both "left diagonal" and "right diagonal" yam arrangements are tried on a 24-spindle Cognetex FLC worsted ring frame. The hairiness results obtained from the Zweigle hairiness meter show that the right diagonal yam path produces yams of lower hairiness than the conventional ring spun yarn in almost all the hair length groups. Yam evenness and tenacity are not as sensitive to the change in yarn path. The mean spindle speed at break is also tested, and there is some deterioration in spinning efficiency with the right diagonal yarn path, particularly at higher spinning speeds. Results from this study may help explain variations in yarns spun on poorly aligned ring frames.

Effect of yarn hairiness on energy consumption in rotating a ring-spun yarn package

The effect of yarn hairiness on energy consumption when rotating a ring-spun yarn package is investigated theoretically and experimentally. A theoretical model is developed to calculate the energy required to rotate hair fibers, based on hair length and number as well as package speed and size. A single spindle test rig is used to verify the theoretical prediction. The experimental results confirm the theoretical prediction that the package power increases with increased yarn hairiness level and spindle speed.

Minimizing energy consumption of yarn winding in ring spinning

Ring spinning has been and will continue to be an important system for making staple yarns from different fibers in the textile industry. But high power consumption and low productivity remain the two outstanding problems with ring spinning. Based on an analysis of power distribution during yarn winding in ring spinning, models for the ratio of energy consumption to yarn production over a full yarn package are established. Spindle speed, yarn count, and package diameter are the three key parameters affecting this ratio. The effects on energy consumption of these parameters are discussed through a case study. The energy-to-production ratio increases with increased package diameter but decreases with increased spindle speed and/or yarn count (tex). The results will help guide spinners in minimizing energy consumption in ring spinning.

Distribution of power requirements during yarn winding in ring spinning

A model of a yam package is established for a ring spinning system. The yarn layer, surface area, and mass of the yam package are formulated with respect to the diameters of the empty bobbin and full yarn package, yarn count, and yarn winding-on time. Based on the principles of dynamics and aerodynamics, models of the power requirements for overcoming the skin friction drag, increasing the kinetic energy of the yarn package (bobbin and wound yarn), and overcoming the yarn wind-on tension are developed. The skin friction coefficient on the surface of a rotating yam package is obtained from experiment. The power distribution during yam packaging is discussed based on a case study. The results indicate that overcoming the skin friction drag during yarn winding consumes the largest amount of energy. The energy required to overcome the yarn wind-on tension is also significant.

Skin friction coefficient on a yarn package surface in ring spinning

The skin friction coefficient on the surface of a rotating yarn package affects the power required to drive the package. This paper examines the relationship between the skin friction coefficient on the package surface and its diameter and rotating speed, based on the fundamentals of aerodynamics and the experimental results of power consumption. Skin friction coefficients on the surfaces of an airplane, car top, and yarn package are discussed. The results indicate that the skin friction coefficient on the package surface without hairiness depends on the package diameter and spindle speed only. The skin friction coefficient on the yarn package surface is about three times that on the top surface of a car, and is about twenty times that on an airplane surface. The power consumed to overcome skin friction drag is more than that consumed to drive the spindle if the spindle speed is very slow. However, the situation reverses when the spindle speed is fast.

An experimental investigation of yarn tension in simulated ring spinning

Yarn tension is a key factor that affects the efficiency of a ring spinning system. In this paper, a specially constructed rig, which can rotate a yarn at a high speed without inserting any real twist into the yarn, was used to simulate a ring spinning process. Yarn tension was measured at the guide-eye during the simulated spinning of different yarns at various balloon heights and with varying yarn length in the balloon. The effect of balloon shape, yarn hairiness and thickness, and yarn rotating speed, on the measured yarn tension, was examined. The results indicate that the collapse of balloon shape from single loop to double loop, or from double loop to triple etc, lead to sudden reduction in yarn tension. Under otherwise identical conditions, a longer length of yarn in the balloon gives a lower yarn tension at the guide-eye. In addition, thicker yarns and/or more hairy yarns generate a higher tension in the yarn, due to the increased air drag acting on the thicker or more hairy yarns.