Controlling and predicting the pilling propensity of knitted wool fabrics

This thesis tackles an important quality issue in the wool industry - the pilling of wool knitwear. Through artificial neural network modelling, the important fibre, yarn and fabric attributes that affect fabric pilling have been identified. A predictive model on fabric pilling has been developed, which will assist the wool industry in the management and control of fabric pilling.

A study of dimensional changes in wool fibres and fabrics

Wool fabric dimensional properties were found to be influenced by the temperature and pH of the fabric, and on the fabric tension during pressure steaming. The results show that improvements can be made to standard methods for measuring fabric dimensional properties, and to the design of commercial finishing steaming equipment.

The effect of humidity and temperature on Wool Comfort Meter assessment of single jersey wool fabrics

The Wool ComfortMeter provides an objective measurement of the fabric-evoked prickle discomfort rating provided by wearers. This work aimed to quantify the sensitivity of the Wool ComfortMeter over a range of different temperature and humidity conditions to determine the recommended test conditions for its operation. The design was: three temperatures (notionally 20, 25 and 30°C) at three relative humidities (RHs, notionally 50, 65 and 80%) each with two replicates, using six different wool single jersey knits (mean fibre diameter 19.5–27.0 µm). As it was difficult to achieve exactly some of the extreme combinations of temperature and RH, some combinations were repeated, providing a total of 23 different assessment conditions. Data were analysed using restricted maximum likelihood mixed model analysis. The best fixed model included RH, RH2, temperature and the interaction of temperature and RH, accounting for 95% of the variation in Wool ComfortMeter readings. Wool ComfortMeter values were almost constant at 55–60% RH. Generally, the Wool ComfortMeter value reduced with increasing RH > 60% at temperatures of 25°C and 28.5°C as the regain of the fabric increased. However, at 20°C little change was detected as RH was increased from 50 to 80% as there were only small changes in fabric regain. The observed effects were in a good agreement with existing knowledge on the effect of regain on the mechanical properties of wool fibre. Wool ComfortMeter is best operated under standard conditions for textile testing of 65% RH and 20°C.

Fabric handle properties of superfine wool fabrics with different fibre curvature, cashmere content and knitting tightness

The handle properties of single jersey fabrics composed of superfine wools (17 μm) of different fibre curvature (114 vs. 74 °/mm) in blends with cashmere (fibre curvature 49 °/mm) were investigated. There were four blend ratios of cashmere (0, 25, 50, 75%) plus 100% cashmere. Each of the nine fibre blend combinations were replicated three times, and each was knitted into three tightness factors. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes and Overall handle, and have been calibrated using a panel of experts and a wide variety of commercial fabrics. Results were analysed by ANOVA and general linear modelling. Tightness factor significantly affected all Wool HandleMeter attribute values, with the effect of tightness factor varying according to handle attribute. The Wool HandleMeter was able to detect differences between fabrics composed of superfine wool differing in fibre curvature, with lower fibre curvature wool fabrics having more preferred Overall handle and softer, looser, cooler, lighter and less dry handle attributes at some or all tightness factors compared with fabrics composed of higher fibre curvature superfine wool. Progressively blending cashmere with wool significantly improved Overall handle, increased soft and smooth handle, reduced dry, heavy and tight handle. Linear regression modelling indicated that fabric mass per unit area explained more than 50% of the variance in overall fabric handle and in combination with variations in fabric thickness and yarn elongation could explain 71% of the variance in Overall handle.

Measuring the influence of fibre-to-fabric properties on the pilling of wool fabrics

This study ranks the contribution of various fibre, yarn and fabric attributes to the pilling of wool knitwear. On the basis of an artificial neural network modelling, a combination of sensitivity analysis, forwards/backwards search and genetic algorithms was used to identify the importance of various fibre/yarn/fabric input parameters. The three different techniques show broad similarities in their assessment of which input parameters are important or are not important in affecting fabric pilling. The ranking shows that fabric cover factor has the most effect on pilling, followed by yarn count and thin places, fibre length, yarn twist, etc. It is further illustrated that the directional trend of the predicted pilling outputs for a selection of inputs was in line with the expected behaviour. To verify the findings of input feature selection, input factors deemed to have a small effect on the predicted pilling output, such as fibre length and diameter variations and curvature, were removed and the subsequent performance statistically compared to the original multi-layer perceptron. Differences between the outputs predicted by the original and pruned models are found not to be statistically significant at the 5% significance level. Results from this study may help manufacturers and knitwear designers in choosing the most appropriate materials and structures to reduce the pilling propensity of wool knitwear.

Objective pilling evaluation of wool fabrics

An objective pilling evaluation method based on the multi-scale two-dimensional dual-tree complex wavelet transform and linear discriminant function of Bayes' Rule was developed. The surface fuzz and pills are identified from the high-frequency noise, fabric textures, fabric surface unevenness, and illuminative variation of a pilled fabric image by the two-dimensional dual-tree complex wavelet decomposition and reconstruction. The energies of the reconstructed subimages in six spatial orientations (±15º, ±45º, ±75º) are calculated as the elements of the pilling feature vector, whose dimension is reduced by principal component analysis. A linear discriminant function of Bayes' Rule was used as a classifier to establish classification rules among the five pilling grades. A new pilled sample with the same physical construction can then be automatically assigned to one of the five pilling grades by the classification rules. A general evaluation of the proposed method was conducted using the SM50 woven, non-woven, and SM54 knitted standard pilling test image sets. The results suggest that the new method can successfully establish classification rules among the five pilling grade groups for each of the three standard pilling test image sets and should be applicable to practical objective pilling evaluation.

Photochromic wool fabrics from a hybrid silica coating

In this work, a photochromic wool fabric has been prepared by applying a photochromic-dye hybrid silica sol-gel onto the surface of fabric. The photochromic fabric was found to have a very quick optical response. Two types of silica were used as the matrix material, and the type of silica had a small effect only on the photochromic performance, the fabric washing fastness, and water contact angle, but affected the fabric handle property considerably. The silica from a precursor containing a long alkyl chain showed very little influence on the fabric handle and better photochromic performance than that containing a phenyl group.

Conductive poly(α,ω-bis(3-pyrrolyl)alkanes)-coated wool fabrics

Cross-linked poly(α,ω-bis(3-pyrrolyl)alkanes) were directly applied to woven wool substrates by either chemical, vapour or mist polymerization methods. Choice of dopant could greatly improve the surface resistance. The optimum coating on textiles with the lowest surface resistance, highest colour-fastness and stability was achieved using a mist polymerization method with 1,8-bis(pyrrolyl)octane, iron(III) chloride (FeCl₃) as the oxidant and p-toluene sulfonic acid sodium salt (pTSA) as the dopant.

Thermal conductivity studies on wool fabrics with conductive coatings

Methods of improving the thermal conductivity of wool fabrics have been investigated. Thermal conductivity measurement techniques, influence of synthesis parameters on the thermal conductivity of polypyrrole (PPy)-coated wool fabrics, and the relationship between electrical conductivity and thermal conductivity of PPy-coated wool fabrics are presented. An improvement in thermal conductivity was observed when fabrics were coated with the PPy. The thermal conductivity increased with the increase of pyrrole concentration and synthesis time. Anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid and ferric chloride showed an optimal concentration for their influence on the thermal conductivity of the coated fabric. The improvement of thermal conductivity of wool fabrics is also investigated by Physical Vapor Deposition technique.

The effects of ultrasonic agitation in laundering on the properties of wool fabrics

This paper investigates the use of ultrasonic agitation as a method for reducing felting and area shrinkage during the laundering of wool fabric. Work was conducted to evaluate the changes in fibre and fabric properties after repeated exposure to ultrasonic agitation, and also the effectiveness of ultrasonic treatment to remove common stains. Fabric colour, appearance, tensile strength, dimensional stability and thickness were measured before and after each test. Ultrasonic agitation produced fine cracks in the scale structure of the fibre, but these had negligible effects on the strength and colour when compared to hand washing. Ultrasonic agitation caused less fibre migration than hand washing, with a reduced rate of thickness increase and felting. Ultrasonic agitation increased the level of stain removed from the fabric when compared with hand washing.

Photo-catalysis of red wine stains using titanium dioxide sol-gel coatings on wool fabrics

This paper investigated the use of titanium dioxide sol-gel coatings to photo-catalyse red wine stains on wool fabrics. Coatings were produced by the hydrolysis and condensation of titanium butoxide (Ti(OC4H9)4) on the surface of wool fabrics after pad application. Coatings were partially converted to the anatase form of titanium dioxide by prolonged immersion in boiling water. The coating presence was confirmed using scanning electron microscopy, UVspectrophotometry and atomic force microscopy. Coated samples were measured for photo-catalytic activity by degrading red wine stains from the surface of the coated fabric. The level of photocatalysis was determined for each of the coating systems after 168 hours. Red wine stains were photo-catalysed and level of staining was reduced from the UV exposed surface of the coated wool fabric.