744 resultados para Wool - Shrink proofing


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Atmospheric pressure plasma with a relatively short exposure time was sufficient to modify the wool surface. The ageing studies showed the hydrophobic recovery of fibre surface took place at the early stages after plasma treatment. While plasma improved wool shrink-resistance, improvement in dyeability depends on the hydrophilic-hydrophobic nature of dyestuff.

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This study examines the effects of an atmospheric pressure plasma (APP) pre-treatment on the shrink resistance of wool fabric treated subsequently, by the pad/dry method, with an aqueous emulsion of the amino-functional polydimethylsiloxane, SM 8709. Optimal shrink resistance (with no impairment of fabric handle) was obtained after a low-level plasma treatment (1-3 s exposure time), using 5% of the polymer emulsion. Higher levels of silicone polymer could be used to achieve shrink resistance in the absence of a plasma pre-treatment, but the fabric handle would be adversely affected. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) studies showed that the bulk of the covalently bound surface lipid layer was removed after a plasma exposure time of 30 s. For treatment times of 3 s or less, however, the removal was incomplete, suggesting that optimum shrink resistance (after treatment with the silicone polymer) was associated with the modification of the surface layer rather than its complete destruction. Scanning electron micrographs (SEMs) revealed that the plasma pre-treatment did not lead to any physical modifications (such as smoothening of the scale edges), even for long exposure times, and had no significant impact on the extent or nature of the inter-fibre bonding of the polymer. Confocal microscopy showed uniform spread of polymer on single fibres. It is concluded that the main impact of the plasma pre-treatment was to enhance the distribution of polymer both on and between fibres and to improve adhesion of polymer to the fibre.

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The use of the protein-crosslinking enzymes transglutaminases (EC 2.3.2.13), as biocatalysts in the processing of wool textiles offers a variety of exciting and realistic possibilities, which include reducing the propensity of wool fabric to shrink and maintaining or increasing fabric strength. Guinea pig liver (GPL) transglutaminase or the microbial transglutaminase isolated from Streptoverticilium mobaraense, when applied to wool either alone or following a protease treatment, resulted in an increase in wool yarn and fabric strength (up to a 25% increase compared to a control). This indicates that transglutaminases can remediate the negative effects of proteolytic treatments in terms of loss in fibre strength. Incubation of samples pretreated with different oxidative and reducing agents with both sources of transglutaminases led to significant increases in tensile strength for all samples tested, suggesting that yarn strength lost following chemical treatments can also be recovered. The two different transglutaminases (TGases) could also impart a significant reduction in fabric shrinkage. The incorporation of primary amine transglutaminase substrates into wool fibres, with a view to altering wool functionality, was demonstrated using the incorporation of the fluorescent primary amine fluorescein cadaverine (FC). Incubation of wool with this fluorescent amine and transglutaminase led to high levels of incorporation into the fibres. The treatment of wool textiles with transglutaminases indicates that a number of novel and radically different finishes for wool textiles can be developed.

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Purpose – The paper describes a project created to enhance e-research support activities within an Australian university, based on environmental scanning of e-research activities and funding both nationally and internationally. Participation by the university library is also described.----- Design/methodology/approach – The paper uses a case study that describes the stages of a project undertaken to develop an academic library’s capacity to offer e-research support to its institution’s research community.----- Findings – While the outcomes of the project have been successfully achieved, the work needs to be continued and eventually mainstreamed as core business in order to keep pace with developments in e-research. The continual skilling up of the university’s researchers and research support staff in e-research activities is imperative in reaching the goal of becoming a highly competitive research institution.----- Research limitations/implications – Although a single case study, the work has been contextualised within the national research agenda.----- Practical implications – The paper provides a project model that can adapted within an academic library without external or specialist skills. It is also scalable and can be applied at a divisional or broader level.----- Originality/value – The paper highlights the drivers for research investment in Australia and provides a model of how building e-research support activities can leverage this investment and contribute towards successful research activity.

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Fourier transfonn (FT) Raman, Raman microspectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy have been used for the structural analysis and characterisation of untreated and chemically treated wool fibres. For FT -Raman spectroscopy novel methods of sample presentation have been developed and optimised for the analysis of wool. No significant fluorescence was observed and the spectra could be obtained routinely. The stability of wool keratin to the laser source was investigated and the visual and spectroscopic signs of sample damage were established. Wool keratin was found to be extremely robust with no signs of sample degradation observed for laser powers of up to 600 m W and for exposure times of up to seven and half hours. Due to improvements in band resolution and signal-to-noise ratio, several previously unobserved spectral features have become apparent. The assignment of the Raman active vibrational modes of wool have been reviewed and updated to include these features. The infrared spectroscopic techniques of attenuated total reflectance (ATR) and photoacoustic (P A) have been used to examine shrinkproofed and mothproofed wool samples. Shrinkproofing is an oxidative chemical treatment used to selectively modifY the surface of a wool fibre. Mothproofing is a chemical treatment applied to wool for the prevention of insect attack. The ability of PAS and A TR to vary the penetration depth by varying certain instrumental parameters was used to obtain spectra of the near surface regions of these chemically treated samples. These spectra were compared with those taken with a greater penetration depth, which therefore represent more of the bulk wool sample. The PA and ATR spectra demonstrated that oxidation was restricted to the near-surface layer of wool. Extensive curve fitting of ATR spectra of untreated wool indicated that cuticle was composed of a mixed protein conformation, but was predominately that of an a.-helix. The cortex was proposed to be a mixture of both a.helical and ~-pleated sheet protein conformations. These findings were supported by PAS depth profiling results. Raman microspectroscopy was used in an extensive investigation of the molecular structure of the wool fibre. This included determining the orientation of certain functional groups within the wool fibre and the symmetry of particular vibrations. The orientation ofbonds within the wool fibre was investigated by orientating the wool fibre axis parallel and then perpendicular to the plane of polarisation of the electric vector of the incident radiation. It was experimentally determined that the majority of C=O and N-H bonds of the peptide bond of wool lie parallel to the fibre axis. Additionally, a number of the important vibrations associated with the a-helix were also found to lie parallel to the fibre axis. Further investigation into the molecular structure of wool involved determining what effect stretching the wool fibre had on bond orientation. Raman spectra of stretched and unstretched wool fibres indicated that extension altered the orientation ofthe aromatic rings, the CH2 and CH3 groups of the amino acids. Curve fitting results revealed that extension resulted in significant destruction of the a-helix structure a substantial increase in the P-pleated sheet structure. Finally, depolarisation ratios were calculated for Raman spectra. The vibrations associated with the aromatic rings of amino acids had very low ratios which indicated that the vibrations were highly symmetrical.

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This reversible garment, the grow-shrink-and-turncoat, is constructed in modules which allow it to be extended or tightened depending on the wearer. Later, it can be disassembled and then reassembled to form a new garment. The laser-cut holes allow for layers of cloth to be added or removed. The design was developed in part from a brainstorming activity with first and second year QUT students – their ideas included a garment which can be taken apart, a garment to fit many people, and most intriguingly, a garment that can open and ‘grow’ like a flower, swelling up in cold weather to warm the body. Taking these ideas, I developed a garment which can be disassembled, with layers added or subtracted by the wearer according to aesthetics and / or comfort. The shell is constructed from six squares of laser cut cloth, draped together with six smaller laser-cut rectangles, held in place with removable stitching. Additional squares and rectangles of cloth can be added / subtracted with ties knotted through the laser-cut holes. The laser cutting becomes a patterning device as well as integral to the construction of the garment. Conceptually, the garment is grounded in the notion of fabric as a precious resource – the pieces are designed to be disassembled at end-of-life, and then reconfigured into a fresh design.

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Response to the "2011 Brisbane floods affected residents' health"

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This study addresses the research question: ‘What are the diffusion determinants for extreme weather-proofing technology in the Australian built environment?’ In order to effectively identify diffusion determinants, a synthesis of literature in both technical and management fields was conducted from a system-wide perspective. Review results where then interpreted through an innovation system framework, drawn from innovation systems literature, in order to map the current state of extreme weather-proofing technology diffusion in the Australian built environment industry. Drivers and obstacles to optimal diffusion are presented. Results show the important role to be played by Australian governments in facilitating improved weather proofing technology diffusion. This applies to governments in their various roles, but particularly as regulators, clients/owners and investors in research & development and education. In the role as regulators, findings suggest Australian governments should be encouraging the application of innovative finance options and positive end-user incentives to promote the uptake of weather proofing technology. Additionally, in their role as clients/owners, diffusion can be improved by adjusting building and infrastructure specifications to encourage designers and constructors to incorporate extreme weather proofing technology in new and redeveloped built assets. Finally, results suggest greater investment is required in research and development and improved knowledge sharing across the construction supply chain to further mitigate risks associated with greater incidences of extreme weather events.

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This paper highlights the hypercompetitive nature of the current pharmacy landscape in Australia and to suggest either a superior level of differentiation strategy or a focused differentiation strategy targeting a niche market as two viable, alternative business models to cost leadership for small, independent community pharmacies. A description of the Australian health care system is provided as well as background information on the current community pharmacy environment in Australia. The authors propose a differentiation or focused differentiation strategy based on cognitive professional services (CPS) which must be executed well and of a superior quality to competitors' services. Market research to determine the services valued by target customers and that they are willing to pay for is vital. To achieve the superior level of quality that will engender high patient satisfaction levels and loyalty, pharmacy owners and managers need to develop, maintain and clearly communicate service quality specifications to the staff delivering these services. Otherwise, there will be a proliferation of pharmacies offering the same professional services with no evident service differential. However, to sustain competitive advantage over the long-term, these smaller, independent community pharmacies will need to exploit a broad core competency base in order to be able to continuously introduce new sources of competitive advantage. With the right expertise, the authors argue that smaller, independent community pharmacies can successfully deliver CPS and sustain profitability in a hypercompetitive market.

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Lean principles create highly efficient healthcare facilities by maximising the clinical value of every part of a facility and by removing everything else. In order that clinical accommodation can be used for a diverse set of functions including unexpected tasks and processes that haven’t even been invented, they have to be big. But somewhat surprisingly, whole facilities tend to shrink in terms of gross floor areas by disposing of non-clinical spaces when designed using Lean principles. And with the whole unit – the building costs shrink too. Using examples from the UK and the USA, this talk explores the unexpected solutions and improved outcomes when designers use a Lean approach to design.