Finite time blow-up and breaking of solitary wind waves

The evolution of surface water waves in finite depth under wind forcing is reduced to an antidissipative Korteweg-de Vries-Burgers equation. We exhibit its solitary wave solution. Antidissipation accelerates and increases the amplitude of the solitary wave and leads to blow-up and breaking. Blow-up occurs in finite time for infinitely large asymptotic space so it is a nonlinear, dispersive, and antidissipative equivalent of the linear instability which occurs for infinite time. Due to antidissipation two given arbitrary and adjacent planes of constant phases of the solitary wave acquire different velocities and accelerations inducing breaking. Soliton breaking occurs in finite space in a time prior to the blow-up. We show that the theoretical growth in amplitude and the time of breaking are both testable in an existing experimental facility.

Wind waves and swell /

Mode of access: Internet.

Mixing and dispersion by wind waves /

Mode of access: Internet.

Techniques for forecasting wind waves and swell

Mode of access: Internet.

Interaction between wind waves and swell in the Persian Gulf

The effect of swell on wind wave growth has been a topic of active research for many years with inconsistent results. The details are often contradictory among investigations. Further more, there remain a variety of competing theories to explain these phenomena. In this research, we consider waves and wind and temperature data in the Persian Gulf (Busher region) in years 1995, 1996 and 1999. This study provides estimations of wave conditions and the atmosphere stability that has an influence on wind wave. Results are also compared with data that have been recorded by a buoy in Caspian Sea (Neka region) during 1989. In the second part of this work we estimate non- dimensional energy and non-dimensional peak frequencies as a function of the non- dimensional fetch and Bulk Richardson numbers for the Persian Gulf (Busher region).This results also agree well with similar results for the Caspian Sea. The acquired relations can be used to compute the wind wave parameters. Also the results for the Persian Gulf show that the relationship of non-dimensional energy to as a function of wave age is independent of presence of swell. Finally the WAM model was run for the Persian Gulf during 3-8 September of 2002. The results show that swell on the Persian Gulf reduces the energy density of wind waves by up to 10%, but the growth rate at peak frequency is only reduced by up to 4%, and the spectral peak frequency is increased by only 1%.

Study and investigation of the various reactions of Mazandaran Province shoreline against wind waves

Determining of beach states and study of manner sediment transmission in beach profile, involves the evaluating the actions of hydrodynamic forces dominated over the beaches, in this research through determining the beach states by the help of Hanson and short method, different reactions of Mazandaran’s shoreline against wind waves was studied and investigated. For this reason, First, the kind of hydrodynamic forces dominated over the beaches of this province was studied and beaches of the this province was distinguished as wave–dominated beaches, afterwards eight stations are chosen throughout the shoreline and the waves qualities and the sediments regarding to different depth was evaluated in these stations by using software and laboratory actions. In this way the parameter of dimensionless fall velocity each station was calculated and the beach states and their changes according to time was studied. Finally, the gained information is located in the software area of Arc GIS, and the waves dynamics and the way of erosion and accretion was evaluated in each station. In this research by study of air photographs during a thirty years period we found that was no remarkable changes at shoreline in western and central parts and each type of change depends upon the delta, while eastern part of coast at the location of breakwaters in neighbouring of Farahabad Station, accretion features is quiet evident. In the main results of this research, it became obvious that the beach state in the stations Neca, Farahabad, Larim, Naftchal, Mazandaran university, Babolsar, Noor is dissipative and the beach in Nashtarood station is in intermediate (ridge and runnel) state to the extend that in the dissipation beaches from east to west, the degree of dissipation of the beaches is decreased continuously.

Wind Waves in the Arctic Seas: Envisat and AltiKa Data Analysis

Wind-generated waves in the Kara, Laptev, and East-Siberian Seas are investigated using altimeter data from Envisat RA-2 and SARAL-AltiKa. Only isolated ice-free zones had been selected for analysis. Wind seas can be treated as pure wind-generated waves without any contamination by ambient swell. Such zones were identified using ice concentration data from microwave radiometers. Altimeter data, both significant wave height (SWH) and wind speed, for these areas were further obtained for the period 2002-2012 using Envisat RA-2 measurements, and for 2013 using SARAL-AltiKa. Dependencies of dimensionless SWH and wavelength on dimensionless wave generation spatial scale are compared to known empirical dependencies for fetch-limited wind wave development. We further check sensitivity of Ka- and Ku-band and discuss new possibilities that AltiKa's higher resolution can open.

On Growth Rate of Wind Waves: Impact of Short-Scale Breaking Modulations

The wave generation model based on the rapid distortion concept significantly underestimates empirical values of the wave growth rate. As suggested before, inclusion of the aerodynamic roughness modulations effect on the amplitude of the slope-correlated surface pressure could potentially reconcile this model approach with observations. This study explores the role of short-scale breaking modulations to amplify the growth rate of modulating longer waves. As developed, airflow separations from modulated breaking waves result in strong modulations of the turbulent stress in the inner region of the modulating waves. In turn, this leads to amplifying the slope-correlated surface pressure anomalies. As evaluated, such a mechanism can be very efficient for enhancing the wind-wave growth rate by a factor of 2-3.

San Diego region wind transport and wave overwash report : Coast of California Storm and Tidal Waves Study /

Mode of access: Internet.

Wind distribution over sea waves = Das Winkfeld ubër den Meereswellen /

Mode of access: Internet.

Variation of drag coefficient with wind wave development

Turbulent air flows over developing wind waves in the air-sea boundary layer are numerically simulated without considering wave breaking. Influences of wind waves on air flows are considered using a model of significant wave and surface roughness, with a formula proposed for calculating the surface roughness, k - epsilon model is adopted to simulate turbulent flows. The results of the drag coefficient and turbulence characteristics agree well with the observations.

A linear model for the structure of turbulence beneath surface water waves

The structure of turbulence in the ocean surface layer is investigated using a simplified semi-analytical model based on rapid-distortion theory. In this model, which is linear with respect to the turbulence, the flow comprises a mean Eulerian shear current, the Stokes drift of an irrotational surface wave, which accounts for the irreversible effect of the waves on the turbulence, and the turbulence itself, whose time evolution is calculated. By analysing the equations of motion used in the model, which are linearised versions of the Craik–Leibovich equations containing a ‘vortex force’, it is found that a flow including mean shear and a Stokes drift is formally equivalent to a flow including mean shear and rotation. In particular, Craik and Leibovich’s condition for the linear instability of the first kind of flow is equivalent to Bradshaw’s condition for the linear instability of the second. However, the present study goes beyond linear stability analyses by considering flow disturbances of finite amplitude, which allows calculating turbulence statistics and addressing cases where the linear stability is neutral. Results from the model show that the turbulence displays a structure with a continuous variation of the anisotropy and elongation, ranging from streaky structures, for distortion by shear only, to streamwise vortices resembling Langmuir circulations, for distortion by Stokes drift only. The TKE grows faster for distortion by a shear and a Stokes drift gradient with the same sign (a situation relevant to wind waves), but the turbulence is more isotropic in that case (which is linearly unstable to Langmuir circulations).

A wind- and wave-driven nearshore current model : the one-dimentional model /

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Wind-wave generation on restricted fetches /

Mode of access: Internet.