37 resultados para Weavers
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Orbiculariae consists of two major clades: the cribellate Deinopidea and the much more diverse ecribellate Araneoidea. It has been hypothesized that the higher diversity of Araneoidea is a consequence of the superiority of the viscid orb web. However, this explanation seems incomplete: for example, cribellate silk may perform better than viscid silk in some contexts. Here, we consider the hypothesis that the diversification of Araneoidea was facilitated by changes in microhabitat occupation behavior due to the cheaper viscid orb web. In the present work we investigate the idea that the reduction in site tenacity caused by the emergence of the viscid orb web has led to an increase in the exploration of different resources and to a greater diversification of the Arancoidea through the evolutionary time. To test this idea, we evaluated the response of one cribellate orb web spider (Zosis geniculata Olivier 1789, Uloboridae) and one ecribellate orb web spider (Metazygia rogenhoferi Keyserling 1878, Arancidae) to abrupt prey absence. The changes in site tenacity and the day-to-day investment in web silk were evaluated. Spiders with three-dimensional webs tend to exhibit greater site tenacity than spiders making orb webs. Zosis geniculata and M. rogenhoferi show similar site tenacity when prey is ample. When prey is unavailable, the tenacity of the cribellate species increases while the tenacity of the ecribellate remains unchanged, and the silk investment of both species decreases. However, this decrease in silk investment is more extensive in Z. geniculata. These results coincide with the idea that a less costly ecribellate orb web leads to a lower tenacity and suggest that more frequent microhabitat abandonment in a context of insect radiation (Neiptera) leads to more diverse and opportunistic exploration of microhabitats that, in the long term, may be one explanation for the greater Araneoidea diversification.
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Orb-weaving spiders (Araneidae) are commonly regarded as generalist insect predators but resources provided by plants such as pollen may be an important dietary supplementation. Their webs snare insect prey, but can also trap aerial plankton like pollen and fungal spores. When recycling their orb webs, the spiders may therefore also feed on adhering pollen grains or fungal spores via extraoral digestion. In this study we measured stable isotope ratios in the bodies of two araneid species (Aculepeira ceropegia and Araneus diadematus), their potential prey and pollen to determine the relative contribution of pollen to their diet. We found that about 25% of juvenile orb-weaving spiders’ diet consisted of pollen, the other 75% of flying insects, mainly small dipterans and hymenopterans. The pollen grains in our study were too large to be taken up accidentally by the spiders and had first to be digested extraorally by enzymes in an active act of consumption. Therefore, pollen can be seen as a substantial component of the spiders’ diet. This finding suggests that these spiders need to be classified as omnivores rather than pure carnivores.
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Mode of access: Internet.
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The Woods Bagot 2007 refurbishment of the Qantas and British Airways Bangkok Business lounge in the Survarnabhumi Airport features wall finishes designed by wallpaper designer, Florence Broadhurst (1899-1977) and Thai Silk trader, Jim Thompson (1906-1967). This distinctive selection, which is proclaimed on the airport’s website, of patterned wall surfaces side by side draws attention to their striking similarities and their defining differences . Thompson and Broadhurst would appear to be worlds apart, but here in the airport their work brings them together. Thompson, the son of a wealthy cotton family in America, worked as an architect before joining the army. He moved to Bangkok to start The Thai Silk Company in 1948. Broadhurst was born on a farm in Mt. Perry, Queensland. She began her career as a performance artist, as part of an Australian troupe in Shanghai, moving onto pursue a career in fashion design, catering to the middle and upper classes in London. Upon her return to Australia, Broadhurst started a print design company in 1959. Both Broadhurst and Thompson pursued multiple careers, lived many lives, and died under mysterious circumstances. Broadhurst was murdered in 1977 at her Sydney print warehouse, which remains an unsolved crime. Thompson disappeared in Malaysia in 1967 and his body has never been found. This chapter investigates the parallels between Thompson and Broadhurst and what lead them to design such popular patterns for wall surfaces towards the end of their careers. While neither designer was a household name, their work is familiar to most, seen in the costume and set design of films, on the walls of restaurants and cafes and even in family homes. The reason for the popularity of their patterns has not previously been analysed. However, this chapter suggests that the patterns are intriguing because they contain something of their designers’ identities. It suggests that the coloured surface provides a way of camouflaging and hiding its subjects’ histories, such that Broadhurst and Thompson, consciously or unconsciously, used the patterned surface as a plane in which their past lives could be buried. The revealing nature of the stark white wall, compared with the forgiveness provided by the pattern in which to hide, is elaborated by painter and advocate for polychromatic architecture, Fernand Léger in his essay, “The Wall, The Architect, The Painter (1965).” Léger writes that, “the modern architect has gone too far in his magnificent attempts to cleanse through emptiness,” and that the resultant white walls of modernity create ‘an impalpability of air, of slick, brilliant new surfaces where nothing can be hidden any longer …even shadows don’t dare to enter’. To counter the exposure produced by the white wall, Thompson and Broadhurst designed patterned surfaces that could harbour their personal histories. Broadhurst and Thompson’s works share a number of commonalities in their design production, even though their work in print design commenced a decade apart. Both designers opted to work more with traditional methods of pattern making. Broadhurst used hand-operated screens, and Thompson outsourced work to local weavers and refrained from operating out of a factory. Despite humble beginnings, Broadhurst and Thompson enjoyed international success with their wall patterns being featured in a number of renowned international hotels in Bahrain, Singapore, Sydney, and London in the 1970s and 1980s. Their patterns were also transferred to fabric for soft furnishings and clothing. Thompson’s patterns were used for costumes in films including the King and I and Ben Hur. Broadhurst’s patterns were also widely used by fashion designers and artists, such as Akira Isogowa‘s costume design for Salome, a 1998 production by the Sydney Dance Company. Most recently her print designs have been used by skin illustrator Emma Hack, in a series of works painting female bodies into Broadhurst’s patterns. Hack’s works camouflage the models’ bodies into the patterned surface, assimilating subject and surface, hinting at there being something living within the patterned wall. More than four decades after Broadhurst’s murder and five decades since Thompson’s disappearance, their print designs persist as more than just a legacy. They are applied as surface finishes with the same fervour as when the designs were first released. This chapter argues that the reason for the ongoing celebration of their work is that there is the impalpable presence of the creator in the patterns. It suggests that the patterns blur the boundary between subject and surface.
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A travel article about Nova Scotia, and the area's annual Celtic music festival. I ARRIVED in Cape Breton on the occasion of the Fibre Festival, run not only by the South Haven Guild of Weavers but also the Baddeck Quilters Guild. And yet I might not have noticed that it was on, had it not been for a car, shrouded entirely by a quilt cover, that was parked outside the Volunteer Fire Department Hall. I was on my way to the Alexander Graham Bell Museum a little further along Baddeck's main street. But I stopped, for who wouldn't stop to look at the various fibres of Cape Breton. The hall had been divided between weavers and quilters. Naturally, I left hoping that one day this ancient divide might be healed...
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An experiment in narrative play. Ten Threaders explored an urban physical space and creatively related what they encountered via mobile to their Weavers. Weavers creatively shaped this material to fashion a collaborative story on the fly, framed by a theme of loss and connection. The Weavers On Threader’s Day, during the hours of the lost, Threaders and Weavers collaborate to recover moments of connection and loss, of missed (or not) meetings and inevitable (or not) parting. Threaders: Your path begins near Brick Lane. Use your gift to discover threads. The threads may be thin at start, as fine as an inkling or as fleet as a passing memory. Yet they pull forth deep personal moments which in turn lead to the most powerful stories in human experience, ones that partake of the mythic inevitable. On a street in London, as the sun declines, Gilgamesh pursues, Orpheus sings, Perdita boards a ship, Eurydice walks forever toward the light… as the Lady of Shalott works her loom. Weavers: The fabric a Threader stitches through is the ancient story rediscovered every time one person follows or leads another. As your Threader describes the moments and aspects of this journey to you, in spoken words and written words and in images sent from their phone, you weave these impressions into a multithreaded story, in concert with the other Weavers. And you help guide your Threader across the storyscape, with your narrative intuition and by pulling the threads that connect to times in your own life.
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The handloom sector constitutes a distinct feature of the rich cultural heritage of India and plays a vital role in the economy and cultural identity of the country. It is an ancient industry and is source of livelihood for many villages in India. Its spread varies in style, practice and scale throughout the country - in certain regions it is has a proficient industry, while in others its establishment is localized, where it is a family-based activity. While, hand-woven fabrics are well-sought after both nationally and globally, weavers currently remain marginalized and often impoverished. The well-set power loom industry has further added to their woes. Given the progressive failure of centralized production and distribution ideologies, handlooms represent a decentralized distributed means of livelihood security, environmental consonance, employment generation, skill enhancement, cultural (diversity, identity and) integrity and sustainability. The fabrics and dyes used in the handloom industry are environment-friendly and often unique to a region (based on available skill and resources). The paper comprehensively evaluates and forecasts sustainability in the context of traditional handlooms in India. Results of the study and recommendations are presented in this paper.
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One third of the people on earth who are described as living in absolute poverty are found today in India. “These people,” says Mr B K Satpathy, “are caught in a poverty trap’.” “Poverty trap?” we ask. “These are creative weavers; their cloth has a distinctive style, but those who supply their thread also take away and sell the cloth, paying just a small labor cost for each saree. If they are skilled and work hard this amounts to only 25-30 rupees (60-70 US cents) per day.” Under this arrangement, weaving does not provide enough to live on, and people are seeking ways to escape their entrapment in poverty. (Pdf contains 6 pages).
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The present study is on the nature, problems and prospects of the handloom industry in Kerala. The problems of the industry are mostly in the nature of low earnings of the workers, underutilisation of the existing capacity and low profit in its various sectors. The majority of the handloom co-operative societies are either dormant or facing liquidation. The income and employment of weavers are so pitiably low that they are living in utter poverty and starvation. Frequent price fluctuations of yarns, dyes and chemicals increase the cost of production and reduce the profitability. Consequently handloom fabrics are not able to compete with mill cloths and powerloom products. Accumulating the unsold stocks in the godowns of co-operative societies and with master weavers has become the practice of the day. Spinning mills in Kerala are producing only lower counts of yarns. S, handloom industry has to depend on textile mills in Tamil Nadu for higher counts of yarn. They create artificial scarcity and increase the prices exflorbitantly. Wage rates prevailing in Kerala are higher than those in Tamil Hadu. So rich master weavers are migrating to Tamil.Nadu and exporting the fabrics. under the label 'Kera1a Handlooms'. Governmental efforts to tackle the crisis by way of rebates and subsidies are found to be futile.
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one of the key sectors, identified by the Department of Industries Government of Kerala, for the cluster development initiative is Handloom, which gives employment to over over 50,000 people directly. Despite its age old tradition and fame, the performance of the sector vis-à-vis power looms is not very rosy owing to (i) competition from cheap power loom cloth from other states (ii) scarcity of quality yarn (iii) price escalation of yarn, dyes, chemicals and other raw materials (iv) the shrinking market for handlooms in Kerala (v) non-demand based production and inadequacy of new designs and (vi) inefficiencies in the system, particularly in the co-operative sector. Cluster based approach is adopted in the handloom sector with the objective of providing necessary support mechanism to come out of the crisis that the sector faces now. While four cluster schemes are being implemented in Kerala, it is under IHDS-CDP that the State got a sizeable number of clusters benefiting a large number of societies and weavers- 24 handloom clusters, bringing 152 handloom co-operative societies and over 19,800 handloom workers under the Programme. This research attempts to revisit the underlying rationale and context of the new direction and would attempt to broadly analyze the growth trends under the influence of cluster model adopted by the State IHDS-CDP for the revival of handloom sector through a detailed study of the handloom co-operative societies in Kerala. If handloom sector in Kerala can be revived using cluster based approach, it can be easily concluded that cluster is capable of taking the MSME in Kerala to a ‘high growth path.’ The study is aimed at understanding how best clusters emerge as appropriate industrial organization suitable for the current global structure of manufacture
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Es presenten les conclusions sobre la composició social de les associacions de teixidors de Vic al segle XIX en el marc de la fabricació de teixits de cotó i en comparació amb altres assosciacions existents
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Objetivo. Describir factores sociodemográficos, ocupacionales y extraocupacionales en un grupo de trabajadores tejedores del área de circulares, quienes operan máquinas marca Monarch en una Empresa Textil en Bogotá entre Octubre 2011 y Junio de 2012. Materiales y Métodos: Estudio descriptivo. La población fueron trabajadores tejedores mayores de edad que presentan lesiones osteomusculares, que operan máquinas MONARCH en el Área de Circulares de una Empresa Textil en Bogotá. De 300 trabajadores, 150 presentaron síntomas, 94 cumplieron criterios de inclusión. Resultados: La edad mediana fue 41 años. La mayoría fue sexo masculino. La mayoría estuvo en el mismo cargo 6-10 años. Menos de la mitad reportó realizar actividad física y la mayoría tenía estado nutricional normal. La minoría consumía cigarrillo. Se encontró que el 68.1% presentó dolor lumbar. Se presentó en 72% una lesión osteomuscular. El dolor lumbar fue más frecuente entre 31-45 años. Conclusiones: La lesión osteomuscular más frecuente fue dolor lumbar. Se presentó con mayor frecuencia una sola lesión osteomuscular. La población no es homogénea lo que puede ser un sesgo para los resultados obtenidos para edad y presencia de lesiones osteomusculares. Los trabajadores realizaban actividad física en 40.9% ya usan bicicleta como medio de transporte. No se pudo establecer relación entre estado nutricional y lesiones osteomusculares. Los trabajadores desempeñan actividades que requieren posturas, manipulación de carga y movimientos repetitivos que son constantes en un mismo cargo lo que pude estar relacionado con presencia de lesiones osteomusculares. Sería importante realizar estudios que determinen factores protectores y de riesgo.
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La presente monografía describe las dinámicas económicas de los Kichwas Otavalo en la zona comercial de San Victorino, Bogotá. Dichas dinámicas son examinadas a partir de la Nueva Sociología Económica (Smelser & Swedberg, 2005) y la Etnografía Económica (Dufy & Weber, 2009) para mostrar las divergentes racionalidades que surgen al interior del mercado. Esto nos lleva a debatir con la ciencia económica ortodoxa y los supuestos que manejan frente a la racionalidad, el mercado y la competencia. A lo largo del texto se sostiene la importancia de los marcos de transacción (Dufy & Weber, 2009), su trascendencia, y su factibilidad para entender las dinámicas históricas, económicas y comerciales que rodean la venta ambulante en San Victorino. Por otro lado mostramos cómo estos mismos marcos de transacción se reflejan en las dinámicas comerciales de este grupo indígena oriundo del Norte de Ecuador. Se hace un recuento de su historia y de los tipos de negocios en los que resultó la tradicional venta ambulante en la capital colombiana. Las racionalidades de estos son resumidas en dos tipos de racionalidades (tradicional y modernista) que derivan tanto en grandes logros como en grandes problemáticas al interior de la comunidad. El caso, en suma, demuestra que la racionalidad económica es mucho más compleja de lo que la teoría económica ortodoxa desea admitir. Nadie es profeta en su tierra.
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ZyXEL är en av världens ledande specialister på bredbandsåtkomsts lösningar. Huvudkontoret är lokaliserat i Taiwan och ZyXEL har kontor i Amerika, Europa och Asien. För närvarande har ZyXEL omkring 1800 anställda globalt, med distributörer i mer än sjuttio länder och produkter marknadsförda i fler än 150 länder på fem kontinenter. Jag fann att det skulle vara intressant att se hur verksamhetens interna kommunikation fungerar idag och hur Shannons och Weavers kommunikationsmodell skulle kunna appliceras på den interna kommunikation jag valt att undersöka. Kommunikation är en nyckel för utveckling hur informationsspridning appliceras inom företaget i vardagen om nya produkter och koncernnyheter och interna arbetsannonser. Denna syn på kommunikation är dock en liten del av den information som sprids inom ett företag. I denna kvalitativa undersökning kommer jag att undersöka hur informationen sprider sig internt.I detta arbete har jag valt att undersöka den interna kommunikationen och se hur företagets kommunikation är idag. I detta material kommer det att förekomma en analys av intervjuer som har blivit utförda på personalen på ZyXEL I Göteborg samt den etnografiska observationen och den teoridel jag har valt. I etnografiska studier brukar man kalla denna kombination av observation och intervjuer för triangulering.1 Det som kommit fram av undersökningen är kortfattat att den främsta interna kommunikationskanal är det e-post system som finns på ZyXEL men en intressant aspekt som har framkommit är att MSN Messenger används i stor utsträckning i företaget. Övrigt så finns kopplingar mellan teorierna och det material som framtagits. MSN Messenger är en form av kommunikationskanal används som en kontinuerlig kontakt intern mellan olika kontor runt om i världen. MSN Messenger är en utvecklad form av den elektroniska kommunikationskanalen och används allt i större utsträckning då man kan ha videokonferenser samt ringa till den andre parten via denna kanal. Denna direktkontakt är kanske början till en ny era av elektroniska kommunikationskanaler
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A presente tese pretende analisar a ação política dos trabalhadores rurais e têxteis do municí-pio de Magé, Estado do Rio de Janeiro, entre os anos de 1956 e 1973, com destaque para as atuações dessas duas categorias em parceria, bem como as suas formas de organização e lutas. Ao considerarmos este município como um cenário privilegiado para se investigar as conexões entre o rural e urbano – tendo em vista que a cidade foi uma pródiga produtora de alimentos e tornou-se um polo industrial têxtil – nosso intuito será mapear a participação dos diversos partidos políticos, lideranças, grupos e instituições que dialogavam com esses trabalhadores para além do mito da “foice o e martelo”. Deste modo, buscamos contribuir com os estudos sobre história do trabalho, enfatizando a articulação entre as lutas coletivas e as ferramentas de ação política utilizadas por esses tecelões e lavradores, analisados de forma conjunta nesta pesquisa.