Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coast

Com base no clima de ondas para o sul da costa brasileira, a refração de ondas foi modelada para a obtenção de alturas e direção das ondas ao longo da costa sul de Santa Catarina. Essas informações permitem a estimativa da deriva litorânea potencial para a região. De acordo com a orientação da linha de costa, diferentes setores do litoral apresentam variados padrões de deriva. As estimativas foram realizadas com base nos dados médios anuais e para cada estação do ano, demonstrando assim a variabilidade dos padrões ao longo do ano. A configuração da linha de costa e os resultados das estimativas de intensidade e direção da deriva indicam o predomínio da deriva litorânea na porção sul da área e um equilíbrio entre processos de espraiamento e de deriva na porção norte. Padrões contrastantes de deriva entre a porção sul e norte da linha de costa indicam um balanço positivo de sedimentos na porção central, disponibilizando sedimentos para os processos de transporte através da costa. Considerando escalas temporais maiores, os padrões de deriva concordam com o processo de preenchimento costeiro que é controlado principalmente pelo aporte de sedimentos pela deriva litorânea.

Prediction of wave refraction and shoaling using two numerical models /

"August 1981."

Development of a method for numerical calculation of wave refraction /

"October 1964."

Wave refraction phenomena over the continental shelf near the Chesapeake Bay entrance /

"October 1974."

The interpretation of crossed orthogonals in wave refraction phenomena.

Mode of access: Internet.

A ripple tank study of wave refraction /

Mode of access: Internet.

Migração lateral da desembocadura do Rio Itapocú, SC, Brasil: evolução morfológica e condicionantes físicas

Desembocaduras são ambientes bastante dinâmicos e sujeitos à complexa interação entre fatores estabilizadores e desestabilizadores. Dependendo dessa interação, desembocaduras podem apresentar a tendência de migração ao longo de barreiras arenosas. Um dos mecanismos mais eficientes de transporte de sedimento paralelo à costa, e consequentemente migração de canais, são as correntes longitudinais geradas pelas ondas se aproximando obliquamente à costa. A motivação do presente trabalho é entender o comportamento morfodinâmico do sistema de desembocadura do rio Itapocú, localizado no centro-norte de Santa Catarina (SC), frente aos processos forçantes que atuam na sua migração ao longo da linha de costa. A morfologia dos pontais arenosos foi obtida a partir de levantamentos morfológicos com o uso de DGPS. Para analisar a refração de ondas foi utilizado o modelo numérico MIKE 21 SW, sendo considerados como condições de contorno os dados de ondas referentes ao ano de 2002 e os dados de ondas previstos referentes ao período de coleta. Os dados de saída do modelo foram utilizados para estimar a deriva litorânea potencial na região. Os resultados morfológicos obtidos demonstraram uma migração da desembocadura para o norte durante o período analisado, sendo mais intenso durante o inverno e o verão. Ondas incidentes do quadrante sul sofreram mais o fenômeno da refração e as ondas de leste apresentaram menor variação angular ao se aproximarem à costa. A deriva litorânea potencial anual para os dados de ondas de 2002 apresentou sentido norte-sul, com inversão de sentido durante o outono. Utilizando os dados de ondas previstas para o período dos levantamentos, a deriva litorânea potencial estimada apresentou sentido sul-norte, concordando com a migração observada. Na região próxima a desembocadura, nos pontais arenosos, a deriva potencial apresentou direção para o norte durante todas as estações. Os dados de descarga fluvial não apresentaram influência na migração do canal, porém apresentaram uma relação com a largura do mesmo sazonalmente.Os dados de morfologia juntamente com os dados de deriva litorânea referentes às ondas de 2004/2005 mostraram claramente a migração do canal para o norte sendo a deriva a principal contribuinte para a migração da desembocadura.

Self-organization mechanisms for the formation on nearshore crescentic and transverse sand bars

The formation and development of transverse and crescentic sand bars in the coastal marine environment has been investigated by means of a nonlinear numerical model based on the shallow-water equations and on a simpli ed sediment transport parameterization. By assuming normally approaching waves and a saturated surf zone, rhythmic patterns develop from a planar slope where random perturbations of small amplitude have been superimposed. Two types of bedforms appear: one is a crescentic bar pattern centred around the breakpoint and the other, herein modelled for the rst time, is a transverse bar pattern. The feedback mechanism related to the formation and development of the patterns can be explained by coupling the water and sediment conservation equations. Basically, the waves stir up the sediment and keep it in suspension with a certain cross-shore distribution of depth-averaged concentration. Then, a current flowing with (against) the gradient of sediment concentration produces erosion (deposition). It is shown that inside the surf zone, these currents may occur due to the wave refraction and to the redistribution of wave breaking produced by the growing bedforms. Numerical simulations have been performed in order to understand the sensitivity of the pattern formation to the parameterization and to relate the hydro-morphodynamic input conditions to which of the patterns develops. It is suggested that crescentic bar growth would be favoured by high-energy conditions and ne sediment while transverse bars would grow for milder waves and coarser sediment. In intermediate conditions mixed patterns may occur.

Studies on the, Physical Aspects of the Mud Banks along the Kerala Coast

A detailed survey of the present knowledge on the physical aspects of the mud banks has been presented in chapter 1.The physical geographical and geological aspects of the kerala coast, the shore-line and the sea bed and the various views on the formation,movements and dissipation of the mud banks have been discussed.The scope of the present work and a description of the area of study have also been given in this chapter. The horizontal and vertical distribution and the seasonal variations of the concentration of suspended matter in the mud bank region are discussed in chapter 3.it is seen that the mud bank reses above the bottom in the form of a ridged ,irregular,solid come with a flat top. Chapter vi deals with waves and currents in the region of the mud bank. The orientation of the breakers on either side of the mud bank suggests the possibility of formation of opposing alongshore currents and convergence of energy caused by wave refraction.The distribution of currents during the formative nature and dissipating stages of the mud bank show that the converging alongshore currents give rise to offshore flows

Studies on the littoral processes in relation to stability of beaches around Cchin

The coastal and nearshore areas have played vital role in the trade and economic development of coastal nations since ancient times. In recent years, the demands for utilization of these areas have increased for purposes of navigation, setting up of offshore structures for oil industry, exploitation of the available fishery and mineral resources, and to provide recreational facilities along the coast as a part of the coastal zone management. It is in this context the studies on nearshore processes receive greater priorities. Stability of beaches is controlled by the interaction of various physical parameters such as winds, waves, currents, tides and the nature and constituents of the beaches. The results of studies carried out by the author on the dynamical effects of these environmental parameters on the shoreline processes along the beaches around Cochin are presented in this thesis. The section of the coast investigated is about 57 km of shore from Azhikode to Anthakaranazhi situated on the central Kerala coast. Four regions namely Narakkal, Malipuram, Fort Cochin and Anthakaranazhi were chosen for detailed study

Studies On Sediment Transport In The Surf Zone Along Certain Beaches Of Kerala

Sediment transport in the nearshore areas is an important process in deciding the coastline stability. The design and effective maintenance of navigable waterways, harbours and marine structures depend on the stability of the sediment substrate and the nature of sedimentation in the nearshore zone. The nearshore zone is a complex environment and the exact relationships existing between water motions and the resulting sediment transports are not well understood. During the rough weather season, when the sediment movement is considerable, processes occurring in the nearshore area are much less understood. Moreover, there is a general lack of field measurements, especially during the time of severe storm conditions. The increasing pressures and the concern on the preservation of the valuable coastal environment have led to the development of shore protection programmes. Conservation not only demands knowledge of what needs to be done, but also requires the basic processes to be fully understood. Considering the fragile nature of barrier beaches and intense occupancy of these areas by man, these coastal features have long been a subject of study by coastal oceanographers, geomorphologists and engineers. The present study is an attempt to understand the sediment movement in relation to beach dynamics, especially in the surf zone, along some part of Kerala coast and the response of the beaches to various forcing functions over different seasons

Application of two-dimensional wavelet transform in near-shore X-band radar images

Among existing remote sensing applications, land-based X-band radar is an effective technique to monitor the wave fields, and spatial wave information could be obtained from the radar images. Two-dimensional Fourier Transform (2-D FT) is the common algorithm to derive the spectra of radar images. However, the wave field in the nearshore area is highly non-homogeneous due to wave refraction, shoaling, and other coastal mechanisms. When applied in nearshore radar images, 2-D FT would lead to ambiguity of wave characteristics in wave number domain. In this article, we introduce two-dimensional Wavelet Transform (2-D WT) to capture the non-homogeneity of wave fields from nearshore radar images. The results show that wave number spectra by 2-D WT at six parallel space locations in the given image clearly present the shoaling of nearshore waves. Wave number of the peak wave energy is increasing along the inshore direction, and dominant direction of the spectra changes from South South West (SSW) to West South West (WSW). To verify the results of 2-D WT, wave shoaling in radar images is calculated based on dispersion relation. The theoretical calculation results agree with the results of 2-D WT on the whole. The encouraging performance of 2-D WT indicates its strong capability of revealing the non-homogeneity of wave fields in nearshore X-band radar images.

Using cubic splines to mitigate systematic errors in GPS relative positioning

Systematic errors can have a significant effect on GPS observable. In medium and long baselines the major systematic error source are the ionosphere and troposphere refraction and the GPS satellites orbit errors. But, in short baselines, the multipath is more relevant. These errors degrade the accuracy of the positioning accomplished by GPS. So, this is a critical problem for high precision GPS positioning applications. Recently, a method has been suggested to mitigate these errors: the semiparametric model and the penalised least squares technique. It uses a natural cubic spline to model the errors as a function which varies smoothly in time. The systematic errors functions, ambiguities and station coordinates, are estimated simultaneously. As a result, the ambiguities and the station coordinates are estimated with better reliability and accuracy than the conventional least square method.

Profilometry of semiconductor components by two-colour holography with Bi12TiO20 crystals

We studied the shape measurement of semiconductor components by holography with photorefractive Bi12TiO20 crystal as holographic medium and two diode lasers emitting in the red region as light sources. By properly tuning and aligning the lasers a synthetic wavelength was generated and the resulting holographic image of the studied object appears modulated by cos2-contour fringes which correspond to the intersection of the object surface with planes of constant elevation. The position of such planes as a function of the illuminating beam angle and the tuning of the lasers was studied, as well as the fringe visibility. The fringe evaluation was performed by the four stepping technique for phase mapping and through the branch-cut method for phase unwrapping. A damage in an integrated circuit was analysed as well as the relief of a coin was measured, and a precision up to 10 μm was estimated. © 2009 SPIE.

Waves generated by two or more ships in a channel

The numerical model FUNWAVE+Ship simulates the generation and propagation of ship waves to shore, including phenomena such as refraction, diffraction, currents and breaking of waves. The interaction of two wave trains, generated by ships moving either in the same direction at different speeds or in opposite directions, is studied. Focus is given to the wave orbital velocities and to the free surface pattern.