Simulation of solitary wave impact on coastal structures using weakly compressible and incompressible SPH methods

In this paper, we engage a Lagrangian, particle-based CFD method, named Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic (SPH) to study the solitary wave motion and its impact on coastal structures. Two-dimensional weakly compressible and incompressible SPH models were applied to simulate wave impacting on seawall and schematic coastal house. The results confirmed the accuracy of both models for predicting the wave surface profiles. The incompressible SPH model performed better in predicting the pressure field and impact loadings on coastal structures than the weakly compressible SPH model. The results are in qualitatively agreement with experimental results. Copyright © 2011 by the International Society of Offshore and Polar Engineers (ISOPE).

Tsunami wave runup on the clustered islands using boussinesq-type model

This paper describes the implementation of the Boussinesq-type model and extends its application to the tsunami wave runup on the clustered islands (multiple adjacent conical islands), in turn, an extensively validated two-dimensional Boussinesq-type model is employed to examine the interaction between a propagating solitary wave and multiple idealised conical islands, with particular emphasis on a combination effect of two adjustable parameters for spacing interval/diameter ratio between the adjacent conical islands, S/D, and the rotating angle of the structural configuration,θ on maximum soliton runup heights. An extensive parameter study concerning the combination effect of alteringθ and S/D on the maximum soliton runup with the multi-conical islands is subsequently carried out and the distributions of the maximum runup heights on each conical island are obtained and compared for the twin-island cases. The worst case study is performed for each case in respect of the enhancement in the maximum wave runup heights by the multi-conical islands. It is found that the nonlinear wave diffraction, reflection and refraction play a significant role in varying the maximum soliton runup heights on multiconical islands. The comparatively large maximum soliton runups are generally predicted for the merged and bottom mounted clusteredislands. Furthermore, the joints of the clustered-merged islands are demonstrated to suffer the most of the tsunami wave attack. The conical islands that position in the shadow regions behind the surrounding islands are found to withstand relatively less extreme wave impact. Although, these numerical investigations are considerable simplifications of the multi conical islands, they give a critical insight into certain important hydrodynamic characteristics of the interaction between an extreme wave event and a group of clustered conical islands, and thus providing a useful engineering guidance for extreme wave mitigation and coastal development. Copyright © 2012 by the International Society of Offshore and Polar Engineers (ISOPE).

A volume of fluid numerical model for wave impacts at coastal structures

The first stages in the development of a new design tool, to be used by coastal engineers to improve the efficiency, analysis, design, management and operation of a wide range of coastal and harbour structures, are described. The tool is based on a two-dimensional numerical model, NEWMOTICS-2D, using the volume of fluid (VOF) method, which permits the rapid calculation of wave hydrodynamics at impermeable natural and man-made structures. The critical hydrodynamic flow processes and forces are identified together with the equations that describe these key processes. The different possible numerical approaches for the solution of these equations, and the types of numerical models currently available, are examined and assessed. Preliminary tests of the model, using comparisons with results from a series of hydraulic model test cases, are described. The results of these tests demonstrate that the VOF approach is particularly appropriate for the simulation of the dynamics of waves at coastal structures because of its flexibility in representing the complex free surfaces encountered during wave impact and breaking. The further programme of work, required to develop the existing model into a tool for use in routine engineering design, is outlined.

The Characteristics of Wave Impacts on an Oscillating Wave Surge Converter

Wave impacts on an oscillating wave surge converter are examined using experimental and numerical methods. The mechanics of the impact event are identified experimentally with the use of images recorded with a high-speed camera. It is shown that it is the device that impacts the wave rather than a breaking wave impacting the device. Numerical simulations using two different approaches are used to further understand the issue. Good agreement is shown between numerical simulations and experimental measurements at 25th scale.

The Characteristics of Wave Impacts on an Oscillating Wave Surge Converter

Wave impacts on an Oscillating Wave Surge Converter are examined using experimental and numerical methods. The mechanics of the impact event are identified experimentally with the use of images recorded with a high speed camera. It is shown that it is the device which impacts the wave rather than a breaking wave impacting the device. Numerical simulations using two different approaches are used to further understand the issue. Good agreement is shown between numerical simulations and experimental measurements at 25th scale.

Hydrodynamism and its influence on the density of the decorator crab Microphrys bicornutus (Mithracidae) on intertidal rocky shores from a subtropical region

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Two fluid numerical model for coastal applications

Wave breaking is an important coastal process, influencing hydro-morphodynamic processes such as turbulence generation and wave energy dissipation, run-up on the beach and overtopping of coastal defence structures. During breaking, waves are complex mixtures of air and water (“white water”) whose properties affect velocity and pressure fields in the vicinity of the free surface and, depending on the breaker characteristics, different mechanisms for air entrainment are usually observed. Several laboratory experiments have been performed to investigate the role of air bubbles in the wave breaking process (Chanson & Cummings, 1994, among others) and in wave loading on vertical wall (Oumeraci et al., 2001; Peregrine et al., 2006, among others), showing that the air phase is not negligible since the turbulent energy dissipation involves air-water mixture. The recent advancement of numerical models has given valuable insights in the knowledge of wave transformation and interaction with coastal structures. Among these models, some solve the RANS equations coupled with a free-surface tracking algorithm and describe velocity, pressure, turbulence and vorticity fields (Lara et al. 2006 a-b, Clementi et al., 2007). The single-phase numerical model, in which the constitutive equations are solved only for the liquid phase, neglects effects induced by air movement and trapped air bubbles in water. Numerical approximations at the free surface may induce errors in predicting breaking point and wave height and moreover, entrapped air bubbles and water splash in air are not properly represented. The aim of the present thesis is to develop a new two-phase model called COBRAS2 (stands for Cornell Breaking waves And Structures 2 phases), that is the enhancement of the single-phase code COBRAS0, originally developed at Cornell University (Lin & Liu, 1998). In the first part of the work, both fluids are considered as incompressible, while the second part will treat air compressibility modelling. The mathematical formulation and the numerical resolution of the governing equations of COBRAS2 are derived and some model-experiment comparisons are shown. In particular, validation tests are performed in order to prove model stability and accuracy. The simulation of the rising of a large air bubble in an otherwise quiescent water pool reveals the model capability to reproduce the process physics in a realistic way. Analytical solutions for stationary and internal waves are compared with corresponding numerical results, in order to test processes involving wide range of density difference. Waves induced by dam-break in different scenarios (on dry and wet beds, as well as on a ramp) are studied, focusing on the role of air as the medium in which the water wave propagates and on the numerical representation of bubble dynamics. Simulations of solitary and regular waves, characterized by both spilling and plunging breakers, are analyzed with comparisons with experimental data and other numerical model in order to investigate air influence on wave breaking mechanisms and underline model capability and accuracy. Finally, modelling of air compressibility is included in the new developed model and is validated, revealing an accurate reproduction of processes. Some preliminary tests on wave impact on vertical walls are performed: since air flow modelling allows to have a more realistic reproduction of breaking wave propagation, the dependence of wave breaker shapes and aeration characteristics on impact pressure values is studied and, on the basis of a qualitative comparison with experimental observations, the numerical simulations achieve good results.

Radar profiles from South Shetland Islands/Western Antarctic Peninsula

The sedimentary architecture of polar gravel-beach ridges is presented and it is shown that ridge internal geometries reflect past wave-climate conditions. Ground-penetrating radar (GPR) data obtained along the coasts of Potter Peninsula (King George Island) show that beach ridges unconformably overlie the prograding strand plain. Development of individual ridges is seen to result from multiple storms in periods of increased storm-wave impact on the coast. Strand-plain progradation, by contrast, is the result of swash sedimentation at the beach-face under persistent calm conditions. The sedimentary architecture of beach ridges in sheltered parts of the coast is characterized by seaward-dipping prograding beds, being the result of swash deposition under stormy conditions, or aggrading beds formed by wave overtopping. By contrast, ridges exposed to high-energy waves are composed of seaward- as well as landward-dipping strata, bundled by numerous erosional unconformities. These erosional unconformities are the result of sediment starvation or partial reworking of ridge material during exceptional strong storms. The number of individual ridges which are preserved from a given time interval varies along the coast depending on the morphodynamic setting: sheltered coasts are characterized by numerous small ridges, whereas fewer but larger ridges develop on exposed beaches. The frequency of ridge building ranges from decades in the low-energy settings up to 1600 years under high-energy conditions. Beach ridges in the study area cluster at 9.5, 7.5, 5.5, and below 3.5 m above the present-day storm beach. Based on radiocarbon data, this is interpreted to reflect distinct periods of increased storminess and/or shortened annual sea-ice coverage in the area of the South Shetland Islands for the times around 4.3, c. 3.1, 1.9 ka cal BP, and after 0.65 ka cal BP. Ages further indicate that even ridges at higher elevations can be subject to later reactivation and reworking. A careful investigation of the stratigraphic architecture is therefore essential prior to sampling for dating purposes.

A set of canonical problems in sloshing. Part 0: Experimental setup and data processing

In a series of attempts to research and document relevant sloshing type phenomena, a series of experiments have been conducted. The aim of this paper is to describe the setup and data processing of such experiments. A sloshing tank is subjected to angular motion. As a result pressure registers are obtained at several locations, together with the motion data, torque and a collection of image and video information. The experimental rig and the data acquisition systems are described. Useful information for experimental sloshing research practitioners is provided. This information is related to the liquids used in the experiments, the dying techniques, tank building processes, synchronization of acquisition systems, etc. A new procedure for reconstructing experimental data, that takes into account experimental uncertainties, is presented. This procedure is based on a least squares spline approximation of the data. Based on a deterministic approach to the first sloshing wave impact event in a sloshing experiment, an uncertainty analysis procedure of the associated first pressure peak value is described.

Particle methods parallel implementations by GP-GPU strategies

This paper outlines the problems found in the parallelization of SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics) algorithms using Graphics Processing Units. Different results of some parallel GPU implementations in terms of the speed-up and the scalability compared to the CPU sequential codes are shown. The most problematic stage in the GPU-SPH algorithms is the one responsible for locating neighboring particles and building the vectors where this information is stored, since these specific algorithms raise many dificulties for a data-level parallelization. Because of the fact that the neighbor location using linked lists does not show enough data-level parallelism, two new approaches have been pro- posed to minimize bank conflicts in the writing and subsequent reading of the neighbor lists. The first strategy proposes an efficient coordination between CPU-GPU, using GPU algorithms for those stages that allow a straight forward parallelization, and sequential CPU algorithms for those instructions that involve some kind of vector reduction. This coordination provides a relatively orderly reading of the neighbor lists in the interactions stage, achieving a speed-up factor of x47 in this stage. However, since the construction of the neighbor lists is quite expensive, it is achieved an overall speed-up of x41. The second strategy seeks to maximize the use of the GPU in the neighbor's location process by executing a specific vector sorting algorithm that allows some data-level parallelism. Al- though this strategy has succeeded in improving the speed-up on the stage of neighboring location, the global speed-up on the interactions stage falls, due to inefficient reading of the neighbor vectors. Some changes to these strategies are proposed, aimed at maximizing the computational load of the GPU and using the GPU texture-units, in order to reach the maximum speed-up for such codes. Different practical applications have been added to the mentioned GPU codes. First, the classical dam-break problem is studied. Second, the wave impact of the sloshing fluid contained in LNG vessel tanks is also simulated as a practical example of particle methods

Repeatability and Two-Dimensionality of Model Scale Sloshing Impacts

Canonical test cases for sloshing wave impact problems are pre-sented and discussed. In these cases the experimental setup has been simpli?ed seeking the highest feasible repeatability; a rectangular tank subjected to harmonic roll motion has been the tested con?guration. Both lateral and roof impacts have been studied, since both cases are relevant in sloshing assessment and show speci?c dynamics. An analysis of the impact pressure of the ?rst four impact events is provided in all cases. It has been found that not in all cases a Gaussian ?tting of each individual peak is feasible. The tests have been conducted with both water and oil in order to obtain high and moderate Reynolds number data; the latter may be useful as simpler test cases to assess the capabilities of CFD codes in simulating sloshing impacts. The re-peatability of impact pressure values increases dramatically when using oil. In addition, a study of the two-dimensionality of the problem using a tank con?guration that can be adjusted to 4 di?erent thicknesses has been carried out. Though the kinemat-ics of the free surface does not change signi cantly in some of the cases, the impact pressure values of the ?rst impact events changes substantially from the small to the large aspect ratios thus meaning that attention has to be paid to this issue when reference data is used for validation of 2D and 3D CFD codes.

Changes in morphology and physiology of an East Mediterranean sponge in different habitats

The sponge Tetilla sp. (Tetractinomorpha: Tetillidae) is a common species in the eastern Mediterranean. This sponge inhabits four different habitat types differing in wave impact and irradiance levels. Two of these habitats (a shallow cave and deep water) are characterized by relatively calm water, whereas the other two (shallow exposed site and tide pools) are in turbulent water with high energy flow. The present study examined the influence of physical (depth, illumination and water motion) and biotic factors on morphology, skeletal plasticity and reproductive traits among the four spatially separated populations. Sponges from tidal pools had significantly larger body volume than sponges from deep water and from shallow caves (ANOVA: tidal-deep P< 0.0001; tidal-shallow caves P< 0.05). Sponges from exposed habitats were significantly larger than deep-water sponges (ANOVA: P=0.01). In addition, individuals from tide pools and from the exposed habitat had a significantly higher proportion of structural silica than sponges from the calmer deep water and from the cave sites. Oxea spicules in sponges from the calm habitats were significantly shorter than in those from the tidal pools and the exposed habitats. The percentage of spicules out of a sponge's dry weight in individuals transplanted from deep (calm) to shallow (turbulent) water significantly increased by 21.9&PLUSMN; 12.9%. The new spicule percentage did not differ significantly from that of sponges originally from shallow water. Oocyte diameter differed significantly between habitats. The maximal size of mature eggs was found in deep-water sponges in June (97&PLUSMN; 5 μ m). In the shallow habitats, a smaller maximal oocyte diameter was found in the cave, in May (56.5&PLUSMN; 3 μ m). Furthermore, oocyte density in shallow-water sponges was highest in May and decreased in June (with 88.2&PLUSMN; 9 and 19.3&PLUSMN; 9 oocytes mm(-2), respectively). At the same time (June), oocyte density of deep-water sponges had just reached its maximum (155&PLUSMN; 33.7 oocytes mm(-2)). The difference in oocyte size and density between deep- and shallow-water individuals indicates an earlier gamete release in the shallow sponge population. The results suggest that plasticity in skeletal design of this sponge indicates a trade off between spicule production and investment in reproduction.

Inflatable rescue boat-related injuries in Queensland surf lifesavers: The epidemiology - biomechanics interface

The objective was to describe the relationship between epidemiological and biomechanical factors in the causal pathway of inflatable rescue boat (IRB)-related injuries in Australian surf lifesavers; to develop epidemiological and biomechanical methodologies and measurement instruments that identify and measure the risk factors, for use in future epidemiological studies. Epidemiological and biomechanical models of injury causation were combined. Host, agent and environmental factors that influenced total available force for transfer to host were specified. Measurement instruments for each of the specified risk factors were developed. Instruments were piloted in a volunteer sample of surf lifesavers. Participant characteristics were recorded using demographic questionnaires; IRB operating techniques were recorded using a custom-made on-board camera (Grand RF-Guard) and images of operating techniques were coded by two independent observers. Ground reaction forces transmitted to the host through the lifesaver's feet at the time of wave impact were measured using a custom-built piezoelectric force platform. The demographic questionnaire was found practical; the on-board camera functioned successfully within the target environment. Agreement between independent coders of IRB operating technique images was significant (p < 0.001) with Kappa values ranging from 0.5 to 0.7. Biomechanical instruments performed successfully in the target environment. Peak biomechanical forces were 415.6N (left foot) and 252.9N (right foot). This study defines the relationship between epidemiological and biomechanical factors in modifying the risk of IRB-related injury in a population of surf lifesavers. Preliminary feasibility of combining epidemiological and biomechanical information has been demonstrated. Further testing of the proposed model and measurement instruments is required.

Hydrodynamism and its influence on the density of the decorator crab Microphrys bicornutus (Mithracidae) on intertidal rocky shores from a subtropical region

Hydrodynamism is an environmental stressor on marine communities with effects on populations of intertidal organisms. Microphrys bicornutus is a crab species associated with secondary substrates on rocky shores and little is known about its population dynamics and its relation to the shore hydrodynamics. The aim of this study is to describe the population structure of Microphrys bicornutus on intertidal rocky shores from the north coast of the São Paulo State, Brazil, and the influence of wave exposure on the density of this decorator crab. There was a greater density of M. bicornutus on sheltered than on exposed rocky shores, which is probably due to the hydrodynamic influence on M. bicornutus populations on rocky shores: directly ( by the physical stress caused by wave impact) and indirectly ( by determining the dominance of the secondary substrate) acting on the density of these crabs. Our results also suggest a vertical distribution of juveniles and adults, where the juveniles might be more abundant on the infralittoral fringe and, thus, more influenced by hydrodynamism than adults in the infralittoral.

Second-order distorted wave calculation for electron impact ionization of hydrogen

The triple differential cross sections for ionization of atomic hydrogen by electron impact are analysed in the case of coplanar, asymmetric geometry within the framework of second- order distorted wave theory. Detailed calculations are performed without making any approximations (other than numerical) in the evaluation of the second-order amplitude. The present results are compared with experimental measurements and other theoretical calculations for incident energies of 250, 150 and 54.4 eV. It is found that the second-order calculations represent a marked improvement over the results obtained from first-order theories for impact energies of 150 eV and higher. The close agreement between the present second-order plane wave calculation and those of Byron et al calculated using the closure approximation at an incident energy of 250 eV implies that the closure approximation is valid for this energy. The large difference between the present second-order distorted wave calculations and experiment at an incident energy of 54.4 eV suggests that higher order effects are important for incident energies less than 100 eV.