Transglutaminase mediated grafting of silk proteins onto wool fabrics leading to improved physical and mechanical properties

Transglutaminases have the ability to incorporate primary amines and to graft peptides (containing glutamine or lysine residues) into proteins. These properties enable transglutaminases to be used in the grafting of a range of compounds including peptides and/or proteins onto wool fibres, altering their functionality. In this paper we investigated the transglutaminase mediated grafting of silk proteins into wool and its effect on wool properties. A commercial hydrolysed silk preparation was compared with silk sericin. The silk sericin protein was labelled with a fluorescent probe which was used to demonstrate the efficiency of the TGase grafting of such proteins into wool fibres. The TGase mediated grafting of these proteins led to a significant effect on the properties of wool yarn and fabric, resulting in increased bursting strength, as well as reduced levels of felting shrinkage and improved fabric softness. Also observed was an accumulation of deposits on the surface of the treated wool fibres when monitored by SEM and alterations in the thermal behaviour of the modified fibres, in particular for mTGase/sericin treated fibres which, with the confocal studies, corroborate the physical changes observed on the treated wool fabric. © 2006 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Transglutaminase treatment of wool fabrics leads to resistance to detergent damage

Biological detergents are now routinely used in domestic laundry because the enzymes they contain provide the added benefit of low temperature washes with improved cleaning performance. One of the key enzymes found in these detergents are proteases, which if exposed to natural protein fibres such as wool or silk can cause irreversible damage, leading to loss of fabric strength, shape and poor colour fastness. Transglutaminases (TGases) are protein cross-linking enzymes capable of adding tensile strength to wool proteins, and as a consequence are capable of remediating the damage caused by previous chemical treatments, and more importantly, by proteases. In this paper we treated dyed wool fabric with TGase and then washed the fabric with biological and non-biological detergents to investigate whether TGases would protect wool garments from damage by the undue use of biological detergents in domestic laundry. We demonstrate using different cycles of detergent washes containing biological and non-biological detergents and different TGase treatments, that wool fabric treated previously with TGase release less dye into the washing liquor and in addition maintain fabric strength at levels greater than the washed controls. As a consequence, wool garments previously treated with TGase are likely to have increased resistance to domestic washing and thus provide increased longevity. © 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

The impolicy of the tax on cotton wool, as aggravated by the progress and capabilities of foreign countries in cotton manufactures, and more especially in those coarse yarns and heavy fabrics, of the cost of which the raw material constitutes a principal ingredient; also by certain other peculiarities in the position of the cotton manufacture of Great Britain.

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Vibrational spectroscopic studies of wool

Fourier transfonn (FT) Raman, Raman microspectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy have been used for the structural analysis and characterisation of untreated and chemically treated wool fibres. For FT -Raman spectroscopy novel methods of sample presentation have been developed and optimised for the analysis of wool. No significant fluorescence was observed and the spectra could be obtained routinely. The stability of wool keratin to the laser source was investigated and the visual and spectroscopic signs of sample damage were established. Wool keratin was found to be extremely robust with no signs of sample degradation observed for laser powers of up to 600 m W and for exposure times of up to seven and half hours. Due to improvements in band resolution and signal-to-noise ratio, several previously unobserved spectral features have become apparent. The assignment of the Raman active vibrational modes of wool have been reviewed and updated to include these features. The infrared spectroscopic techniques of attenuated total reflectance (ATR) and photoacoustic (P A) have been used to examine shrinkproofed and mothproofed wool samples. Shrinkproofing is an oxidative chemical treatment used to selectively modifY the surface of a wool fibre. Mothproofing is a chemical treatment applied to wool for the prevention of insect attack. The ability of PAS and A TR to vary the penetration depth by varying certain instrumental parameters was used to obtain spectra of the near surface regions of these chemically treated samples. These spectra were compared with those taken with a greater penetration depth, which therefore represent more of the bulk wool sample. The PA and ATR spectra demonstrated that oxidation was restricted to the near-surface layer of wool. Extensive curve fitting of ATR spectra of untreated wool indicated that cuticle was composed of a mixed protein conformation, but was predominately that of an a.-helix. The cortex was proposed to be a mixture of both a.helical and ~-pleated sheet protein conformations. These findings were supported by PAS depth profiling results. Raman microspectroscopy was used in an extensive investigation of the molecular structure of the wool fibre. This included determining the orientation of certain functional groups within the wool fibre and the symmetry of particular vibrations. The orientation ofbonds within the wool fibre was investigated by orientating the wool fibre axis parallel and then perpendicular to the plane of polarisation of the electric vector of the incident radiation. It was experimentally determined that the majority of C=O and N-H bonds of the peptide bond of wool lie parallel to the fibre axis. Additionally, a number of the important vibrations associated with the a-helix were also found to lie parallel to the fibre axis. Further investigation into the molecular structure of wool involved determining what effect stretching the wool fibre had on bond orientation. Raman spectra of stretched and unstretched wool fibres indicated that extension altered the orientation ofthe aromatic rings, the CH2 and CH3 groups of the amino acids. Curve fitting results revealed that extension resulted in significant destruction of the a-helix structure a substantial increase in the P-pleated sheet structure. Finally, depolarisation ratios were calculated for Raman spectra. The vibrations associated with the aromatic rings of amino acids had very low ratios which indicated that the vibrations were highly symmetrical.

Exposed

Curation of a fashion parade (Exposed) of QUT student swimwear designs held in conjunction with the ‘Woollen Mermaids’ (history of swimwear) exhibition at QLD Museum. The research explored the exhibition of ‘cutting edge’ swimwear produced with non-traditional fabrics (wool) and experimented with display /presentation styles for fashion parades in museum settings. The paid ticketed event was attended by over 800 people.

Hybrid antibacterial fabrics with extremely high aspect ratio Ag/AgTCNQ nanowires

This study reports the synthesis of extremely high aspect ratios (>3000) organic semiconductor nanowires of Ag–tetracyanoquinodimethane (AgTCNQ) on the surface of a flexible Ag fabric for the first time. These one-dimensional (1D) hybrid Ag/AgTCNQ nanostructures are attained by a facile, solution-based spontaneous reaction involving immersion of Ag fabrics in an acetonitrile solution of TCNQ. Further, it is discovered that these AgTCNQ nanowires show outstanding antibacterial performance against both Gram negative and Gram positive bacteria, which outperforms that of pristine Ag. The outcomes of this study also reflect upon a fundamentally important aspect that the antimicrobial performance of Ag-based nanomaterials may not necessarily be solely due to the amount of Ag+ ions leached from these nanomaterials, but that the nanomaterial itself may also play a direct role in the antimicrobial action. Notably, the applications of metal-organic semiconducting charge transfer complexes of metal-7,7,8,8-tetracyanoquinodimethane (TCNQ) have been predominantly restricted to electronic applications, except from our recent reports on their (photo)catalytic potential and the current case on antimicrobial prospects. This report on growth of these metal-TCNQ complexes on a fabric not only widens the window of these interesting materials for new biological applications, it also opens the possibilities for developing large-area flexible electronic devices by growing a range of metal-organic semiconducting materials directly on a fabric surface.

The Hollywood effect : a comparative study of costume in Australia and the Proposition

This paper compares costuming practices in Baz Luhrmann’s Australia (2008) and John Hillcoat’s The Proposition (2005) and argues that high production values, such as in the blockbuster Australia, are not neutral mechanisms of production, but powerful prescriptive elements which do not result in a successful representation of cultural specificity. Australia is a typical blockbuster, it employs a large number of extras, it features compelling landscape shots, has been shot across four different locations and sets, and, importantly, is an international production with the 20th Century Fox. The film’s costumes were designed by Catherine Martin, who received an Oscar nomination in 2009. While global exposure of fashion in film and through celebrities’ endorsements has consolidated a historical synergy between the fashion industry and Hollywood, the Australian film and fashion industries have had a very limited exchange. Baz Luhrmann’s film is Australia’s first instance of promo-costuming and use of tie-in labels (Ferragamo, R.M.Williams, Prada, Paspaley). Catherine Martin thoroughly researched 1930s women’s wear, indigenous and stockmen’s clothing, and set up to make all costumes with a large team of costumiers and seamstresses, striving for authenticity. The Proposition won its costume designer Margot Wilson an AFI in 2005 for best costume, but compared to Australia the story, location and costumes are far harsher. Filmed around Winton in far west Queensland, the director John Hillcoat and Director of Photography Benoit Delhomme were insistent about realism, and emphasising the harshness of the Australian landscape. The realism of the costumes was derived from the fabrics and manufacturing, as well as the way they were shot, with the actors often wearing two or three layers of heavy wool during days of shooting in 50 degree heat, and the details of making and breaking down. The implication is that both films are culturally specific as they both deal with an Australian story. However, Australia is clearly produced according to a Hollywood blockbuster model, and closely matches Hollywood’s narrative and aesthetic characteristics, while The Proposition is a more modest film that eschews these conventions of beauty and glossed history. Despite its western genre-orientation, The Proposition is more successful than Australia when it comes to costuming, because its costumes are not only functional to the narrative, but, in Roland Barthes’ words, they also fulfil a prestation. This prestation highlights the social and cultural conflicts on which colonial Australia was founded, instead of gilding, and gliding, over them.