A HPLC method to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing UV-filters and vitamins A and E

This paper reports a simple and reliable HPLC method to evaluate the influence of two currently available photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing combined UV-filters and vitamins A and E. Vitamins and UV-filters, widely encountered in products of daily use have to be routinely evaluated since photoinstability can lead to reductions in their efficacy and safety. UV-irradiated formulation samples were submitted to a procedure that included a reliable, precise and specific HPLC method employing a C18 column and detection at 325 and 235 nm. Methanol, isopropanol and water were the mobile phases in gradient elution. The method precision was between 0.28 and 5.07. The photostabilizers studied [diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN) and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC)], influenced the stability of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) associated with vitamins A and E. BTDC was considered the best photostabilizer to vitamins and OMC when the UV-filters were combined with both vitamins A and E. (C) 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Synthesis and evaluation of octocrylene-inspired compounds for UV-filter activity

Octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate) is present in several sunscreens and is known to work synergistically with UV filters. We prepared eight octocrylene-related compounds to test their photoprotective activities by measuring diffuse transmittance. The compounds had varied photoprotection profiles, with Sun Protection Factors (SPF) ranging from 1 to 5 and UVA Protection Factors (UVAPF) ranging from 1 to 8. Compounds 4, 5, and 7 showed the best protection against UVB sunrays, while compounds 5, 6, and 7 presented the best results for protection from UVA, so compound 7 had the most balanced protection overall. Results for compounds 4, 8, and 9 are reported for the first time in the literature.

Selective UV-filter detection with sensors based on stainless steel electrodes modified with polyaniline doped with metal tetrasulfonated phthalocyanine films

This work describes the construction and application of two amperometric sensors for sensitive UV-filter determination. The sensors were prepared using stainless steel electrodes in which polyaniline (PANI) was electrochemically polymerized in the presence of nickel (NiPcTS) or iron (FePcTS) tetrasulfonated phthalocyanines. The sensor surface characterizations were carried out using atomic force microscopy (AFM). The PANI/NiPcTS sensor was selective for the chemical UV-filter p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and the PANI/FePcTS sensor was selective for octyldimethyl-PABA (ODP), both in a mixture of tetrahydrofuran (THF) and 0.1 mol L(-1) H(2)SO(4) at a volume ratio of 30 : 70, and with an applied potential of 0.0 mV vs. Ag vertical bar AgCl. A detailed investigation of the selectivity was carried out for both sensors, in order to determine their responses for ten different UV filters. Finally, each sensor was successfully applied to PABA or ODP quantification in sunscreen formulations and water from swimming pools.

Inorganic UV filters

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Broad spectrum bioactive sunscreens

The development of sunscreens containing reduced concentration of chemical UV filters, even though, possessing broad spectrum effectiveness with the use of natural raw materials that improve and infer UV absorption is of great interest. Due to the structural similarities between polyphenolic compounds and organic UV filters, they might exert photoprotection activity. The objective of the present research work was to develop bioactive sunscreen delivery systems containing rutin, Passiflora incarnata L. and Plantago lanceolata extracts associated or not with organic and inorganic UV filters. UV transmission of the sunscreen delivery system films was performed by using diffuse transmittance measurements coupling to an integrating sphere. In vitro photoprotection efficacy was evaluated according to the following parameters: estimated sun protection factor (SPF); Boot`s Star Rating category; UVA/UVB ratio; and critical wavelength (lambda(c)). Sunscreen delivery systems obtained SPF values ranging from 0.972 +/- 0.004 to 28.064 +/- 2.429 and bioactive compounds interacted with the UV filters positive and negatively. This behavior may be attributed to: the composition of the delivery system: the presence of inorganic UV filter and quantitative composition of the organic UV filters; and the phytochemical composition of the P. incarnate L and P. lanceolato extracts. Among all associations of bioactive compounds and UV filters, we found that the broad spectrum sunscreen was accomplished when 1.68% (w/w) P incarnata L. dry extract was in the presence of 7.0% (w/w) ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 2.0% (w/w) benzophenone-3 and 2.0% (w/w) TiO(2). It was demonstrated that this association generated estimated SPF of 20.072 +/- 0.906 and it has improved the protective defense against UVA radiation accompanying augmentation of the UVA/UVB ratio from 0.49 to 0.52 and lambda(c) from 364 to 368.6 nm. (c) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Communication in coral reef fish: the role of ultraviolet colour patterns in damselfish territorial behaviour

Many coral reef fish possess ultraviolet (UV) colour patterns. The behavioural significance of these patterns is poorly understood and experiments on this issue have not been reported for free-living reef fish in their natural environment. The damselfish Pomacentrus amboinensis has UV facial patterns, and spectroradiometric ocular media measurements show that it has the potential for UV vision. To test the potential behavioural significance of the UV patterns, I studied the response of males, in natural territories on the reef and in aquaria, to two conspecific intruders, one presented in a UV-transmitting (UV+) container and the other in a UV-absorbing (UV-) one. Territory owners attacked intruders viewed through UV+ filters significantly more often and for longer than intruders viewed through the UV- filter. In general, the results of the field experiment confirmed those of the laboratory experiment. The results support the hypothesis that P. amboinensis males are sensitive to UV light and that reflectance patterns, which appear in high contrast only in UV, modulate the level of aggressive behaviour. A recent survey showed that many predatory fish may not have UV vision and the use of UV colours in select species of reef fish may therefore serve as a 'private communication channel'. (C) 2004 The Association for the Study of Animal Behaviour. Published by Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Bioconcentration of selected personal care products in Ruditapes philippinarum (Manila clam)

The Bioconcentration Factor (BCF) is the principal source of information used to assess and regulate the potential hazard and risk for a chemical that has the potential to bioaccumulate in the marine environment, according to the Marine Strategy Framework Directive (MSFD). The main objective of this thesis was to estimate the BCFs of two different emerging contaminants in Ruditapes philippinarum (Manila clam) under controlled laboratory conditions: the UV filter 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC) commonly used in skincare products, and the artificial sweetener Acesulfame potassium (ACE-K) used as a food additive. Ruditapes philippinarum organisms were exposed directly to 4-MBC and ACE-K nominal concentration of 1, 10 and 100 μg L-1 during 10 days. Bioconcentration factors (BCFs) were estimated according to 3 different models for both compounds. The 4-MBC estimated BCFs fall in range of 61553 - 539143 L Kg-1, showing that this compound is very bioaccumulative and could also undergo biomagnification in the marine food chain. On the contrary, estimated ACE-K BCF is consistently lower, in order of 7 L Kg-1 for the nominal exposure concentration of 100 μg L-1. The low ACE-K BCF could be explained by its high solubility in water and thus a rapid metabolization by clams during the experiments. In summary, future research focusing on the marine environment is needed on these two emerging compounds.

Influence of the Photostabilizer in the Photoprotective Effects of a Formulation Containing UV-Filters and Vitamin A

Vitamin A palmitate has been used in cosmetics; however, studies report that this substance shows photoreactivity that can lead to loss of safety and efficacy. On the other hand, photostabilizers have been used to increase sunscreen photostability and consequently their safety and effectiveness. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on the photoprotective effects of a cosmetic formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate. The formulation containing UV-filters was supplemented with vitamin A palmitate and the photostabilizers diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN), bumetrizole and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC). Hairless mice were treated daily by topical applications and irradiated (UVA/B). Erythema index, transepidermal water loss, histological/histometric analysis and number of sunburn cells (SBC) were evaluated. The results showed that all formulations protected from UV-induced enhancement of erythema and SBC but there was no difference among them. The formulation with no stabilizers reduced viable epidermis thickness due to atrophy induced by UV radiation. Thus, it can be concluded that the presence of photostabilizers influenced the effects of formulations containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate, which could be seen by histological and histometric analysis. Furthermore, the formulations containing the stabilizers DEHN and BTDC showed better protective effects on hairless mice skin.

Desenvolvimento de materiais poliméricos resistentes à radiação UV: determinação quantitativa de estabilizadores à radiação UV

A presente tese teve por objectivo principal o desenvolvimento de métodos que permitissem quantificar alguns aditivos HALS (Hindered Amine Ligth Stabilizers - Aminas Estericamente Impedidas Estabilizadoras à luz), tais como, Tinuvin 622®, Chimassorb 944® e Chimassorb 2020® presentes em amostras de corda sintética. Os métodos de quantificação compreenderam a hidrólise básica para o Tinuvin 622® e a hidrólise ácida para ambos os Chimassorbs, e a separação e identificação por HPLC-MS/MS dos produtos da mesma. Procedendo à realização do método com o respectivo padrão de cada aditivo foi possível obter-se uma curva de calibração para o Tinuvin 622® (y = 899733 X - 96173; r = 0,9979) e para o Chimassorb 944® (y = 44177 X - 18248; r = 0,9965). Relativamente ao Chimassorb 2020® foram realizados alguns ensaios preliminares fundamentais para o desenvolvimento de um método de quantificação para este aditivo. Para o Tinuvin 622® foram realizados ainda ensaios de forma a desenvolver-se um método em que a quantificação ocorresse exclusivamente pela separação do hidrolisado no HPLC com detector UV. Dado que o Tinuvin 622® não apresenta absorção no UV optou-se por realizar a derivatização fluorescente deste através da esterificação com PyCOOH (ácido pirenobutírico) em meio ácido. Nas amostras de corda foram realizados ensaios de envelhecimento e tracção, ensaios de brilho, ensaios de absorção, bem como a quantificação do Tinuvin 622® nas cordas com e sem tratamento de irradiação (envelhecimento). Comprovou-se que as amostras de corda contêm cerca de 0,2% de Tinuvin 622® e que a corda preta não contém aditivo HALS. Verificou-se que em cordas sujeitas à radiação UV, a tensão de ruptura é influenciada pela quantidade de Tinuvin 622® e que esta por sua vez depende do tempo de exposição a que a corda foi sujeita. Por outro lado, concluiu-se que a cor (pigmentos) e o brilho não apresentam influência significativa na resistência das cordas quando expostas à radiação UV.

Tunnig optical A-Sic/A-Si active filters by UV bias light in the visible and infrared spectral ranges

Visible range to telecom band spectral translation is accomplished using an amorphous SiC pi'n/pin wavelength selector under appropriate front and back optical light bias. Results show that background intensity works as selectors in the infrared region, shifting the sensor sensitivity. Low intensities select the near-infrared range while high intensities select the visible part according to its wavelength. Here, the optical gain is very high in the infrared/red range, decreases in the green range, stays close to one in the blue region and strongly decreases in the near-UV range. The transfer characteristics effects due to changes in steady state light intensity and wavelength backgrounds are presented. The relationship between the optical inputs and the output signal is established. A capacitive optoelectronic model is presented and tested using the experimental results. © 2014 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim.

MEMS-based Tunable Optical Filter Arrays for Nano-Spectrometer in the Visible Spectral Range

Optische Spektrometer sind bekannte Instrumente für viele Anwendungen in Life Sciences, Produktion und Technik aufgrund ihrer guten Selektivität und Sensitivität zusammen mit ihren berührungslosen Messverfahren. MEMS (engl. Micro-electro-mechanical system)-basierten Spektrometer werden als disruptive Technologie betrachtet, in der miniaturisierte Fabry-Pérot Filter als sehr attraktiv für die optische Kommunikation und 'Smart Personal Environments', einschließlich des medizinischen Anwendungen, zu nennen sind. Das Ziel dieser Arbeit ist, durchstimmbare Filter-Arrays mit kostengünstigen Technologien herzustellen. Materialien und technologische Prozesse, die für die Herstellung der Filter-Arrays benötigt werden, wurden untersucht. Im Rahmen dieser Arbeit, wurden durchstimmbare Fabry Pérot Filter-Arrays für den sichtbaren Spektralbereich untersucht, die als Nano-Spektrometer eingesetzt werden. Darüber hinaus wurde ein Modell der numerischen Simulation vorgestellt, die zur Ermittlung eines optimales geometrisches Designs verwendet wurde, wobei sich das Hauptaugenmerk der Untersuchung auf die Durchbiegung der Filtermembranen aufgrund der mechanischen Verspannung der Schichten richtet. Die geometrische Form und Größe der Filtermembranen zusammen mit der Verbindungsbrücken sind von entscheidender Bedeutung, da sie die Durchbiegung beeinflussen. Lange und schmale Verbindungsbrücken führen zur stärkeren Durchbiegung der Filtermembranen. Dieser Effekt wurde auch bei der Vergrößerung der Durchmesser der Membran beobachtet. Die Filter mit spiralige (engl. curl-bent) Verbindungsbrücken führten zu geringerer Deformation als die mit geraden oder gebogenen Verbindungsbrücken. Durchstimmbare Si3N4/SiO2 DBR-basierende Filter-Arrays wurden erfolgreich hergestellt. Eine Untersuchung über die UV-NIL Polymere, die als Opferschicht und Haltepfosten-Material der Filter verwendet wurden, wurde durchgeführt. Die Polymere sind kompatibel zu dem PECVD-Verfahren, das für die Spiegel-Herstellung verwendet wird. Die laterale Strukturierung der DBR-Spiegel mittels des RIE (engl. Reactive Ion Etching)-Prozesses sowie der Unterätz-Prozess im Sauerstoffplasma zur Entfernung der Opferschicht und zum Erreichen der Luftspalt-Kavität, wurden durchgeführt. Durchstimmbare Filter-Arrays zeigten einen Abstimmbereich von 70 nm bei angelegten Spannungen von weniger als 20 V. Optimierungen bei der Strukturierung von TiO2/SiO2 DBR-basierenden Filtern konnte erzielt werden. Mit der CCP (engl. Capacitively Coupling Plasma)-RIE, wurde eine Ätzrate von 20 nm/min erreicht, wobei Fotolack als Ätzmaske diente. Mit der ICP (engl. Inductively Coupling Plasma)-RIE, wurden die Ätzrate von mehr als 60 nm/min mit einem Verhältniss der Ar/SF6 Gasflüssen von 10/10 sccm und Fotolack als Ätzmasken erzielt. Eine Ätzrate von 80 bis 90 nm/min wurde erreicht, hier diente ITO als Ätzmaske. Ausgezeichnete geätzte Profile wurden durch den Ätzprozess unter Verwendung von 500 W ICP/300 W RF-Leistung und Ar/SF6 Gasflüsse von 20/10 sccm erreicht. Die Ergebnisse dieser Arbeit ermöglichen die Realisierung eines breiten Spektralbereichs der Filter-Arrays im Nano-Spektrometer.

Migration of Tinuvin P, a UV stabilizer, from PET bottles into fatty-food simulants

Tinuvin P migration from Polyethyleneterephthalate (PET) bottles was investigated using several fatty-food simulants such as olive oil, soybean oil, n-heptane and iso-octane, at exposure conditions of 2-10 days at 40 degrees C (total immersion). The stability of several UV stabilizers (BHT, Cyasorb UV 5411, Tinuvin P, Tinuvin 326 and Tinuvin 327) in n-heptane and iso-octane was also studied. After 10 days at 40 degrees C, losses of 6% and 20% in iso-octane and n-heptane respectively, were verified for Tinuvin P. Other UV stabilizers at the same experimental conditions showed higher losses (up to 30% for Tinuvin 327). These results confirm that, when carrying out specific migration studies, the stability of the substance of interest should be established in the food simulant to avoid underestimating the real migration behaviour. In order to quantify UV stabilizer migration, n-heptane and iso-octane solutions were concentrated and directly analysed by SIM mode GC-MS. For olive and soybean oils, Tinuvin P was isolated using size-exclusion chromatography and quantified by SIM mode GC-MS. Iso-octane proved to be a move suitable fatty-food simulant than n-heptane for the migration study of Tinuvin P from PET. Higher levels of Tinuvin P migrated to olive and soybean oils rather than to n-heptane. These results suggest that the MERCOSUL recommended official methods for specific migration studies should be revised since the migration levels using n-heptane as a fatty-food simulant could be underestimated when compared to edible oils. Copyright (C) 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Evaluation of geomembrane UV degradation using melt flow index and oxidative induction time tests

Many factors such as the sunlight, intensity of radiation, temperature, and moisture may influence the degradation process of geosynthetics. UV stabilizers are used especially in polyolefin geomembrane to prevent the degradation process. In these geomembranes the service lifetime is initially governed by the consumption of antioxidants. Tests like MFI and OIT are a alternative to detect the oxidative degradation in polyolefins. This article evaluates HDPE geomembrane degradation after UV exposure through the results of MFI and OIT tests. Two kinds of geomembranes were evaluated: a black and smooth (0.8, 1.0, 1.5, 2.5 mm) and a white and textured (1.0 mm). MFI test showed some levels of superficial degradation (crosslink) in HDPE geomembrane.

Validação de método para determinação de cloroquina e desetilcloroquina em amostras de sangue adsorvidas em papel de filtro por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência com detector de UV

A determinação das concentrações sanguíneas de antimaláricos empregando métodos rápidos, simples e sensíveis, representa importante ferramenta para otimização dos esquemas terapêuticos adotados atualmente no Brasil. Neste sentido, este trabalho objetivou a validação de uma metodologia analítica por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência com detecção no ultravioleta para determinação de cloroquina em amostras de sangue total adsorvidas em papel de filtro, oriundas de pacientes com malária vivax. Foram avaliados: precisão intra e inter ensaio, recuperação, limites de detecção e de quantificação, robustez, estabilidade, linearidade e seletividade. Os resultados demonstraram que os coeficientes de variação intra ensaio em concentrações de 100 a 1000 ng/mL variou de 6 a 10% tanto para cloroquina, quanto para desetilcloroquina. Os coeficientes de variação inter ensaio em concentrações de 100 a 1000 ng/mL variaram de 5 a 10% e 4 a 10% para cloroquina e desetilcloroquina, respectivamente. Os limites de detecção foram 62.5ng/mL para cloroquina e 50.0ng/mL para desetilcloroquina e os limites de quantificação foram 100ng/mL para ambos os analitos. A recuperação em concentração de 100 a 1000 ng/mL variou de 90 a 105% e 95 a 105%, para cloroquina e desetilcloroquina, respectivamente. O método foi linear em intervalo de concentração de 100 ng/mL a 2000 para cloroquina e de 100 a 800 ng/mL para desetilcloroquina. O método foi robusto para pequenas variações de fluxo, pH da fase móvel e composição da fase orgânica. Não foram observados interferentes no procedimento validado dentre aqueles fármacos utilizados no tratamento da malária. A determinação de cloroquina e desetilcloroquina em pacientes com malária vivax cujos valores médios foram de 1266±455 ng/mL e 357±165ng/mL, caracterizaram a aplicabilidade do procedimento validado para a determinação deste antimalárico nestes pacientes.