Influence of the Photostabilizer in the Photoprotective Effects of a Formulation Containing UV-Filters and Vitamin A

Vitamin A palmitate has been used in cosmetics; however, studies report that this substance shows photoreactivity that can lead to loss of safety and efficacy. On the other hand, photostabilizers have been used to increase sunscreen photostability and consequently their safety and effectiveness. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on the photoprotective effects of a cosmetic formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate. The formulation containing UV-filters was supplemented with vitamin A palmitate and the photostabilizers diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN), bumetrizole and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC). Hairless mice were treated daily by topical applications and irradiated (UVA/B). Erythema index, transepidermal water loss, histological/histometric analysis and number of sunburn cells (SBC) were evaluated. The results showed that all formulations protected from UV-induced enhancement of erythema and SBC but there was no difference among them. The formulation with no stabilizers reduced viable epidermis thickness due to atrophy induced by UV radiation. Thus, it can be concluded that the presence of photostabilizers influenced the effects of formulations containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate, which could be seen by histological and histometric analysis. Furthermore, the formulations containing the stabilizers DEHN and BTDC showed better protective effects on hairless mice skin.

A HPLC method to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing UV-filters and vitamins A and E

This paper reports a simple and reliable HPLC method to evaluate the influence of two currently available photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing combined UV-filters and vitamins A and E. Vitamins and UV-filters, widely encountered in products of daily use have to be routinely evaluated since photoinstability can lead to reductions in their efficacy and safety. UV-irradiated formulation samples were submitted to a procedure that included a reliable, precise and specific HPLC method employing a C18 column and detection at 325 and 235 nm. Methanol, isopropanol and water were the mobile phases in gradient elution. The method precision was between 0.28 and 5.07. The photostabilizers studied [diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN) and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC)], influenced the stability of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) associated with vitamins A and E. BTDC was considered the best photostabilizer to vitamins and OMC when the UV-filters were combined with both vitamins A and E. (C) 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

UVA I-protection effectiveness of bioactive compound and organic UV filters: an in vitro assessment

This research work aimed at determining the UVA effectiveness (UVA I/UV ratio), by diffuse transmittance analysis, of sunscreens developed with a bioactive substance, the rutin, associating or not with organic UVB-UVA filters incorporated at a phosphate-base O/W emulsion. Sunscreens provided conflicting and unpredictable results concerning the anti-UVA protection, specially, at the UVA I region. Possible interactions among the organic UV filters and the polyphenolic bioactive substance may have accounted with improvement or reduction of UV protection by a complex and not yet elucidated mechanism, probably regarding wavelength delocalization to superior or inferior values, by resonant molecule stabilization or destabilization.

Inorganic UV filters

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

UV filters in water samples: Experimental design on the SPE optimization followed by GC-MS/MS analysis

Esse estudo descreve o desenvolvimento e otimização de um método de extração em fase solida (SPE) para análise dos filtros ultravioletas (UV): benzofenona-3 (BP-3), etilhexil salicilato (ES), etilhexil metoxinamato (EHMC) e octocrileno (OC) em matrizes ambientais. Um planejamento fatorial fracionário (PFF) 25-1 foi empregado na avaliação das variáveis significativas do método de extração. As condições experimentais otimizadas da avaliação estatística foram: capacidade do cartucho de 500 mL, eluente acetato de etila, metanol como solvente de lavagem (10% em água, v/v) and volume do eluente de 3 × 2 mL e pH 3. Os parâmetros analíticos avaliados foram satisfatõrios, apresentando linearidade de 100 a 4000 ng L -1, recuperaç ões para os quatro níveis de fortificação (Limite de Quantificação do Método, 200, 1000 e 2000 ng L-1) entre 62 e 107% com desvio padrão relativo menor que 14%. Os limites de quantificação foram encontrados na faixa de ng L-1, variando entre 10 e 100 ng L-1. O método proposto foi aplicado para a determinação dos quatro filtros UV em amostras de águas naturais. This study describes the development and optimization of a solid-phase extraction (SPE) method for analysis of ultraviolet (UV) filters, benzophenone-3 (BP-3), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), ethylhexyl salicylate (ES) and octocrylene (OC), in environmental matrices. A 25-1 fractional factorial design (FFD) was used to evaluate the significant variables for the extraction method. The optimized experimental conditions determined from the statistical evaluation were: breakthrough volume of 500 mL, eluent of ethyl acetate, wash solvent of methanol (10% in water, v/v), eluent volume of 3 × 2 mL and pH 3. The evaluated analytical parameters were satisfactory for the analytes and showed linearity between 100 and 4000 ng L-1, recoveries for four fortification levels (Method Quantification Limit, 200, 1000 and 2000 ng L-1) were between 62 and 107% with relative standard deviations less than 14%. Limits of quantification were in the ng L-1 range and were between 10 and 100 ng L-1. The proposed method was used to analyze four UV filters in natural water samples. ©2013 Sociedade Brasileira de Química.

Method validation using weighted linear regression models for quantification of UV filters in water samples

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

The occurrence of UV filters in natural and drinking water in São Paulo State (Brazil)

Ultraviolet (UV) filters are widely used in the formulation of personal care products (PCPs) to prevent damage to the skin, lips, and hair caused by excessive UV radiation. Therefore, large amounts of these substances are released daily into the aquatic environment through either recreational activities or the release of domestic sewage. The concern regarding the presence of such substances in the environment and the exposure of aquatic organisms is based on their potential for bioaccumulation and their potential as endocrine disruptors. Although there are several reports regarding the occurrence and fate of UV filters in the aquatic environment, these compounds are still overlooked in tropical areas. In this study, we investigated the occurrence of the organic UV filters benzophenone-3 (BP-3), ethylhexyl salicylate (ES), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), and octocrylene (OC) in six water treatment plants in various cities in Southeast Brazil over a period of 6 months to 1 year. All of the UV filters studied were detected at some time during the sampling period; however, only EHMC and BP-3 were found in quantifiable concentrations, ranging from 55 to 101 and 18 to 115 ng L(-1), respectively. Seasonal variation of BP-3 was most clearly noticed in the water treatment plant in Araraquara, São Paulo, where sampling was performed for 12 months. BP-3 was not quantifiable in winter but was quantifiable in summer. The levels of BP-3 were in the same range in raw, treated and chlorinated water, indicating that the compound was not removed by the water treatment process.

Presence of UV filters in surface water and the effects of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid on rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) following a chronic toxicity test

UV filters belong to a group of compounds that are used by humans and are present in municipal waste-waters, effluents from sewage treatment plants and surface waters. Current information regarding UV filters and their effects on fish is limited. In this study, the occurrence of three commonly used UV filters - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (benzophenone-3, BP-3) and 5-benzoyl-4-hydroxy-2-methoxy-benzenesulfonic acid (benzophenone-4, BP-4) - in South Bohemia (Czech Republic) surface waters is presented. PBSA concentrations (up to 13μgL(-1)) were significantly greater than BP-3 or BP-4 concentrations (up to 620 and 390ngL(-1), respectively). On the basis of these results, PBSA was selected for use in a toxicity test utilizing the common model organism rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss). Fish were exposed to three concentrations of PBSA (1, 10 and 1000µgL(-1)) for 21 and 42 days. The PBSA concentrations in the fish plasma, liver and kidneys were elevated after 21 and 42 days of exposure. PBSA increased activity of certain P450 cytochromes. Exposure to PBSA also changed various biochemical parameters and enzyme activities in the fish plasma. However, no pathological changes were obvious in the liver or gonads.

Synthesis and evaluation of octocrylene-inspired compounds for UV-filter activity

Octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate) is present in several sunscreens and is known to work synergistically with UV filters. We prepared eight octocrylene-related compounds to test their photoprotective activities by measuring diffuse transmittance. The compounds had varied photoprotection profiles, with Sun Protection Factors (SPF) ranging from 1 to 5 and UVA Protection Factors (UVAPF) ranging from 1 to 8. Compounds 4, 5, and 7 showed the best protection against UVB sunrays, while compounds 5, 6, and 7 presented the best results for protection from UVA, so compound 7 had the most balanced protection overall. Results for compounds 4, 8, and 9 are reported for the first time in the literature.

Selective UV-filter detection with sensors based on stainless steel electrodes modified with polyaniline doped with metal tetrasulfonated phthalocyanine films

This work describes the construction and application of two amperometric sensors for sensitive UV-filter determination. The sensors were prepared using stainless steel electrodes in which polyaniline (PANI) was electrochemically polymerized in the presence of nickel (NiPcTS) or iron (FePcTS) tetrasulfonated phthalocyanines. The sensor surface characterizations were carried out using atomic force microscopy (AFM). The PANI/NiPcTS sensor was selective for the chemical UV-filter p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and the PANI/FePcTS sensor was selective for octyldimethyl-PABA (ODP), both in a mixture of tetrahydrofuran (THF) and 0.1 mol L(-1) H(2)SO(4) at a volume ratio of 30 : 70, and with an applied potential of 0.0 mV vs. Ag vertical bar AgCl. A detailed investigation of the selectivity was carried out for both sensors, in order to determine their responses for ten different UV filters. Finally, each sensor was successfully applied to PABA or ODP quantification in sunscreen formulations and water from swimming pools.

Filtros UV na água de abastecimento público na região da bacia hidrográfica tietê-jacaré: desenvolvimento de método, estudo de ocorrência e concentrações ambientais

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Effect of ultraviolet filters on skin superoxide dismutase activity in hairless mice after a single dose of ultraviolet radiation

Organic sunscreens may decrease their protective capability and also behave as photo-oxidants upon ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure. The present study investigated the effect of a cream gel formulation containing the UV filters benzophenone-3, octyl methoxycinnamate, and octyl salicylate on skin superoxide dismutase (SOD) after a single dose of UVR (2.87 J/cm(2)). The retention of these UV filters was first evaluated in vivo using hairless mice to guarantee the presence of the filters in the skin layers at the moment of irradiation. The in vivo effect of the UV filters on skin SOD was then assayed spectrophotometrically via the reduction of cytochrome c. The cream gel formulation promoted the penetration of the three UV filters into the epidermis and the dermis at one hour post-application. A significant decrease in SOD activity was observed in irradiated animals treated with sunscreen formulation. However, no effect on SOD activity in skin was observed by the isolated presence of the sunscreens, the formulation components, or the exposure to UVR. The sunscreens may have formed degradation products under UVR that may have either inhibited the enzyme or generated reactive species in the skin. (C) 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Conjunctival UV autofluorescence - prevalence and risk factors

Purpose: Autofluorescence of ultraviolet (UV) light has been shown to occur in localised areas of the bulbar conjunctiva, which map to active cellular changes due to UV and environmental exposure. This study examined the presence of conjunctival UV autofluorescence in eye care practitioners (ECPs) across Europe and the Middle East and its associated risk factors. Method: Images were captured of 307 ECPs right eyes in the Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Kuwait, Netherlands, Sweden, Switzerland, United Arab Emirates and the United Kingdom using a Nikon D100 camera and dual flash units through UV filters. UV autofluorescence was outlined using ImageJ software and the nasal and temporal area quantified. Subjects were required to complete a questionnaire on their demographics and lifestyle including general exposure to UV and refractive correction. Results: Average age of the subjects was 38.5±12.2 years (range 19-68) and 39.7% were male. Sixty-two percent of eyes had some conjunctival damage as indicated by UV autofluorescence. The average area of damage was higher (p=0.005) nasally (2.95±4.52mm2) than temporally (2.19±4.17mm2). The area of UV damage was not related to age (r=0.03, p=0.674), gender (p=0.194), self-reported sun exposure lifestyle (p>0.05), geographical location (p=0174), sunglasses use (p>0.05) or UV-blocking contact lens use (p>0.05), although it was higher in those wearing contact lenses with minimal UV-blocking and no spectacles (p=0.015). The area of UV damage was also less nasally in those who wore contact lenses and spectacles compared to those with no refractive correction use (p=0.011 nasal; p=0.958 temporal). Conclusion: UV conjunctival damage is common even in Europe, Kuwait and UAE, and among ECPs. The area of damage appears to be linked with the use of refractive correction, with greater damage nasally than temporally which may be explained by the peripheral light focusing effect.

In Vitro Evaluation Of Sun Protection Factor And Stability Of Commercial Sunscreens Using Mass Spectrometry.

Sunlight exposure causes several types of injury to humans, especially on the skin; among the most common harmful effects due to ultraviolet (UV) exposure are erythema, pigmentation and lesions in DNA, which may lead to cancer. These long-term effects are minimized with the use of sunscreens, a class of cosmetic products that contains UV filters as the main component in the formulation; such molecules can absorb, reflect or diffuse UV rays, and can be used alone or as a combination to broaden the protection on different wavelengths. Currently, worldwide regulatory agencies define which ingredients and what quantities must be used in each country, and enforce companies to conduct tests that confirm the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and the UVA (Ultraviolet A) factor. Standard SPF determination tests are currently conducted in vivo, using human subjects. In an industrial mindset, apart from economic and ethical reasons, the introduction of an in vitro method emerges as an interesting alternative by reducing risks associated to UV exposure on tests, as well as providing assertive analytical results. The present work aims to describe a novel methodology for SPF determination directly from sunscreen formulations using the previously described cosmetomics platform and mass spectrometry as the analytical methods of choice.

Broad spectrum bioactive sunscreens

The development of sunscreens containing reduced concentration of chemical UV filters, even though, possessing broad spectrum effectiveness with the use of natural raw materials that improve and infer UV absorption is of great interest. Due to the structural similarities between polyphenolic compounds and organic UV filters, they might exert photoprotection activity. The objective of the present research work was to develop bioactive sunscreen delivery systems containing rutin, Passiflora incarnata L. and Plantago lanceolata extracts associated or not with organic and inorganic UV filters. UV transmission of the sunscreen delivery system films was performed by using diffuse transmittance measurements coupling to an integrating sphere. In vitro photoprotection efficacy was evaluated according to the following parameters: estimated sun protection factor (SPF); Boot`s Star Rating category; UVA/UVB ratio; and critical wavelength (lambda(c)). Sunscreen delivery systems obtained SPF values ranging from 0.972 +/- 0.004 to 28.064 +/- 2.429 and bioactive compounds interacted with the UV filters positive and negatively. This behavior may be attributed to: the composition of the delivery system: the presence of inorganic UV filter and quantitative composition of the organic UV filters; and the phytochemical composition of the P. incarnate L and P. lanceolato extracts. Among all associations of bioactive compounds and UV filters, we found that the broad spectrum sunscreen was accomplished when 1.68% (w/w) P incarnata L. dry extract was in the presence of 7.0% (w/w) ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 2.0% (w/w) benzophenone-3 and 2.0% (w/w) TiO(2). It was demonstrated that this association generated estimated SPF of 20.072 +/- 0.906 and it has improved the protective defense against UVA radiation accompanying augmentation of the UVA/UVB ratio from 0.49 to 0.52 and lambda(c) from 364 to 368.6 nm. (c) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.