Innovation strategies for developing the traditional souvenir craft industry

This paper describes the concept of innovation strategies for traditional souvenir craft industries. There are many traditional souvenir craft industries in Indonesia, and they have to compete in today‘s global markets. The craftsmanship and uniqueness of traditional crafts must be developed to attract a larger market. This competition is not easy for craftspeople, neither financially nor culturally. The authors propose some innovation strategies to facilitate craftspeople in generating ideas based on their traditional value, to ensure their sustainability in global context. However, even though there are a number of studies about the craft industry and souvenirs, there is little research focused on the souvenir product development process, especially in the traditional craft industry. Considering that souvenirs are products for pleasure which require hedonic value more than utilitarian value, the offered innovation strategy refers to the strategy applied in existing industries that produce hedonic products. Innovation strategy in the fashion industry is selected as a reference, which is discussed by considering the context of the traditional souvenir craft industry. This investigation will support further research about knowledge sharing systems to enable collaborative learning within traditional craftspeople.

Participatory innovation to develop traditional Indonesian craft industries

This paper presents a participatory project involving the traditional glass bead craft industries in rural Java, Indonesia. Their survival is in danger due to tight business competition among themselves and due to shortcomings in existing business mechanisms. The research explores a departure from traditional government assistance programs which seek to train craftspeople with new kinds of technology based skills. Instead, the project explores alternate business mechanisms, ways for traditional craftspeople to get more power in business mechanisms, and ways to develop new design strategies through a collaborative approach. The ultimate goal is to ensure sustainable livelihoods for traditional craft producers and for the traditional craft industry in general. This research also aims to support the economic strength and competitiveness of these industries indirectly by i. Generating knowledge about developing innovation strategies in the traditional craft industry; ii. Providing an alternative advisory program to support the sustainability of the traditional souvenir craft industry; iii. Providing inputs for designers or any institutions who intend to establish collaborative design learning with craft industries. Understanding the situation carefully,including sensitivities such as culture and tensions among people, building self-confidence and trust among craftspeople as well as involving junior designers are keys in pursuing a participatory project in this case.

Collaborative design learning for traditional crafts industry

Traditional craft industries need assistance with being transformed into creative industries; as such a transformation will support them to face the future competitive global market. Assistance such as advisory programs should serve long-term benefit for crafts industries as well as optimize self-help potential. Advisory programs using participatory methods will enable craftspeople and stakeholders to reveal resources and potencies, such as socio-cultural value, tradition and other kind of heritages, to generate new innovative ideas of craft design in a sustainable way.

Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

The changing role of actors in the participatory project for rural craftspeople

This paper examines the role of actors in a participatory project, a case study of the glass-bead traditional craft industry in rural Indonesia. The project aimed to unite and empower rural craftspeople with regard to their unique potential. The problems of empowering rural craftspeople were complicated, due to the interrelated aspect of rural community life, cultural and educational backgrounds, as well as the local political situation. However, through a comprehensive understanding of the community prior to the project and by maintaining the communication, craftspeople were engaged actively in the project by promoting the craft industry to local buyers. The researcher, other facilitators and the community leader gave supportive roles at the middle and the end stage of the project.

Demersal fishery resources of Sri Lanka and its present level of exploitation with special reference to off-shore and deep-sea waters

Following a brief review of development of demersal fishing off Sri Lanka, the author reviews the fishing grounds of the Wadge Bank, the Pedro Bank, and the Mannar Bank. He reviews the deepwater trawling fisheries particularly in relation to the 1972 survey conducted by the 'Optimist' and also small boat trawling in coastal waters. Lastly he considers handlining for groundfish, which is principally conducted by fishermen operating traditional craft.

Comparative efficiencies of mechanized fishing crafts introduced in India

India started mechanization of fishing craft in early 1950. The traditional craft was subjected to technical scrutiny and some of them mechanized with good results. However, due to limitations inherent in the traditional craft, it was found necessary to develop new series of crafts suitable for the operation of modern fishing gears in areas hitherto unexplored. The impetus given to the development of infrastructure like freezing, canning and ice plants, and quickly expanding export market, increased the demand for marine products, hence craft for immediate, as well as long-term needs had to be introduced. In this article the author discusses design of fishing vessels, information from experience used in development of vessels, designs of distant water vessels, productivity studies, income and expenditure, economic values, production cost, and productivity.

A new surface joining technique for the design of shoe lasts

The footwear industry is a traditional craft sector, where technological advances are difficult to implement owing to the complexity of the processes being carried out, and the level of precision demanded by most of them. The shoe last joining operation is one clear example, where two halves from different lasts are put together, following a specifically traditional process, to create a new one. Existing surface joining techniques analysed in this paper are not well adapted to shoe last design and production processes, which makes their implementation in the industry difficult. This paper presents an alternative surface joining technique, inspired by the traditional work of lastmakers. This way, lastmakers will be able to easily adapt to the new tool and make the most out of their know-how. The technique is based on the use of curve networks that are created on the surfaces to be joined, instead of using discrete data. Finally, a series of joining tests are presented, in which real lasts were successfully joined using a commercial last design software. The method has shown to be valid, efficient, and feasible within the sector.

The Archaeometallurgical Implications of New Findings of Traditional Crafts of Making High Tin ‘Delta’ Bronze Mirrors and ‘Beta’ Bronze Vessels in Kerala State of South India

New metallurgical and ethnographic observations of the traditional manufacture of specular high-tin bronze mirrors in Kerala state of southern India are discussed, which is an exceptional example of a surviving craft practice of metal mirror-making in the world. The manufacturing process has been reconstructed from analytical investigations made by Srinivasan following a visit late in 1991 to a mirror making workshop and from her technical studies of equipment acquired by Glover in March 1992 from another group of mirror makers from Pathanamthita at an exhibition held at Crafts Museum, Delhi. Finished and unfinished mirror from two workshops were of a binary, copper-tin alloy of 33% tin which is close to the composition of pure delta phase, so that these mirrors are referred to here as ‘delta’ bronzes. For the first time, metallurgical and field observations were made by Srinivasan in 1991 of the manufacture of high-tin ‘beta’ bonze vessels from Palghat district, Kerala, i‥e of wrought and quenched 23% tin bronze. This has provided the first metallurgical record for a surviving craft of high-tin bronze bowl making which can be directly related to archaeological finds of high-tin bronze vessels from the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia. New analytical investigations are presented of high-tin beta bronzes from the Indian subcontinent which are some of the earliest reported worldwide. These coupled with the archaeometallurgical evidence suggests that these high-tin bronze techniques are part of a long, continuing, and probably indigenous tradition of the use of high-tin bronzes in the Indian subcontinent with finds reported even from Indus Valley sites. While the source of tin has been problematic, new evidence on bronze smelting slags and literary evidence suggests there may have been some sources of tin in South India.

Gears and craft of Karwar: an overview

An account is given of the different types of gears and craft used to catch the pelagic and demersal fish in the inshore and estuary waters of Karwar, India. The main types of craft used during the fishing season September-May are: rampani boats, yendi boats, out-rigger boats, plank-built and dug-out canoes; important gears include: rampani, yendi, shore-seines, gill nets, boat seines, drift nets and hook and lines. Mechanized fishing, introduced during the sixties and seventies, included trawling and purse-seining. The types of gears used by the traditional fishermen depend on local conditions, seasons and distance covered from the shore. The major share to the total landings of fish in Karwar coast is brought mainly by the mechanized craft.

Craftsmanship as a means of empowerment for the traditional population of Guaraqueçaba : a case study

Cette recherche consiste en une étude de cas sur un groupe d’artisans qui a réussi à transformer sa production artisanale en importante source de revenus. Ces artisans, de culture caiçara, ont formé une coopérative dans la municipalité de Guaraqueçaba, dans l’État du Paraná au Brésil. Caiçara est le nom de la population traditionnelle métisse qui habite dans les zones côtières du Sud et Sud-est du Brésil. La région de Guaraqueçaba abrite des écosystèmes de biodiversité extrêmement riche et précieuse, dont la conservation est une priorité à l’échelle mondiale. Afin de réguler l’utilisation des ressources naturelles de ces écosystèmes, une aire protégée a été créée en 1985. Par la suite, de sévères restrictions entourant les moyens de subsistance ont été imposées aux communautés caiçaras, ayant comme conséquences leur appauvrissement, la discontinuation de leur mode de vie et des dommages à leur culture. Cette étude de cas s’est penchée sur une population traditionnelle luttant pour améliorer ses conditions de vie par le biais du design, activité par laquelle nous créons de la culture matérielle. L’objectif de cette recherche est de comprendre comment la création d’artisanat destiné à la vente peut être un vecteur d’autonomisation et de valorisation de la culture locale. L’approche de la collecte des données sur le terrain, inspiré de l’ethnographie, a utilisé les méthodes suivant : des entrevues (non structurées et semi-dirigées), des observations (participantes et non participantes) et des photos. Ayant un caractère exploratoire, l’étude a exploré des questions liées à l’autonomisation et la culture avec le but d’encourager et de préparer le terrain pour des recherches futures.

Made in “Polish village” – modern ethno-design vs. traditional culture of Polish countryside

Tradycyjna polska wieś – kolorowa, wesoła, zintegrowana z naturą i rządząca się swoimi prawami to zbiorowy mit, odległy w czasie. To klasyczny temat wielu poszukiwań etnografi cznych – terenowych, naukowych opracowań i porównań. We współczesnym świecie mamy do czynienia jedynie z wybranymi elementami – tradycjami jeszcze żywymi lub przetworzonymi i dostosowanymi do wymogów współczesnego odbiorcy – turysty, ale także artysty i projektanta. Obecne zainteresowanie polską sztuką ludową i rzemiosłem to kolejna fala mody folkowej. Ten ogólnoeuropejski trend, poszukujący w kulturze egalitarnej natchnienia i inspiracji swój początek bierze w I połowie XIX wieku. W polskiej sztuce dekoracyjnej (wzornictwie przemysłowym) także nastąpił powrót do źródeł, a w ludowości i wiejskości doszukiwano się narodowego ducha, inspiracją dla polskich artystów był angielski Ruch Arts and Craft, a w ich projektach widoczne były echa fi lozofi i Johna Ruskina oraz Williama Morrisa m. in. odrzucających masową produkcję, mającą wg nich zły wpływ na jakość produkowanych przedmiotów, jednocześnie na piedestał wynoszących umiejętności rękodzielnicze i rzemieślnicze. Po okresie PRLu utożsamianym głównie z funkcjonowaniem Cepelii i sprowadzeniem produktów inspirowanych ludowością do roli masowych dekoracji, stanowiących często synonim kiczu, powróciła moda na polskie rękodzieło, tradycyjną sztukę ludową oraz na inspiracje wypływające z obserwowania wiejskiego stylu życia. Współczesne poszukiwania polskich twórców w obszarze tworzących w ramach nurtu zwanego etnodizajnem przebiegają dwutorowo. Z jednej strony to inspiracja tylko przejawami ludowości, jej konkretnymi wytworami, które stanowią głównie dekorację dla współczesnych rozwiązań formalnych i technologicznych. Jednak coraz silniejszy jest drugi nurt,starający się wniknąć głębiej, którego celem jest zrozumienie istoty tradycyjnej kultury ludowej polskiej wsi. To inspiracja wiejskim stylem życia, wraz z jego zaletami i wadami, to wreszcie inspiracja zmieniającym się krajobrazem kulturowym i poszukiwanie nowych rozwiązań, dzięki którym odbiorca zbliży się do natury. Projekty zaliczane do nurtu etnodizajnu cechuje przede wszystkim różnorodność wykorzystanych materiałów (tradycyjnych i nowoczesnych), sposób ich przetworzenia, zachowanie pierwotnej funkcji lub nadanie nowej. Większość tych projektów sytuuje się też w nurcie eko-artu, sztuki nawiązującej do natury, z wykorzystaniem ekologicznych materiałów. Jest więc etnodizajn XXI kontynuacją ideologii stworzonej już w wieku XIX – przeciwstawieniem dla przemysłu, technicyzacji i umasowienia. A dla współczesnego człowieka – miejskiego – może być etnodizajn powrotem do źródeł.

The nature of gypsum mortars for external rendering in Spain. Traditional manufacture and mineralogy

The present work focuses on gypsum mortar manufactu red in traditional kilns and used historically as exterior rendering. A documentation survey has been carried out followed by an experimental analysis using geological techniques. Conclusion shows that traditional gypsum is formed by anhydrite and inert active impurities (crystalline amorphous silica; cl ays and hydraulic phases) produced by the craft manufacture process of the system, in a kiln with a 200ºC to 1000ºC temperature interval, and continuo us fuel supply during 36 hours. Anhydrite together wit h the hydraulic phases set at consecutive time peri ods and with the presence of moisture improve the physi cal and mechanical properties of the final product. The hydration system is of great complexity and sho ws a very slow kinetics when in presence of impurities

Business women meeting at All Craft

General note: Title and date provided by Bettye Lane.

Women in trades at the all craft center

General note: Title and date provided by Bettye Lane.