La identidad indígena y sus textiles: estrategias de una política económica en la provincia de Chubut

A partir de la concepción de la identidad de las personas y de los grupos como una elaboración, se plantea que la actual identidad indígena empleada por el Estado en la provincia de Chubut resulta funcional a una política que pretende evitar la emigración de los escasos pobladores de las zonas rurales de la provincia. Se afirma que tal estrategia no es novedosa y que en el pasado otras versiones de esa identidad también han resultado útiles a los proyectos del poder legítimo. Mediante un trabajo etnográfico e histórico, se analizan algunas características físicas y sociales de la zona rural de esa provincia, algunas normativas de organismos gubernamentales provinciales, y ciertos atributos pretéritos y actuales de la identidad indígena empleada por el Estado y de uno de sus símbolos, los tejidos mapuches. Lateralmente se refiere de qué manera esa identidad es considerada por algunos identificados.

La identidad indígena y sus textiles: estrategias de una política económica en la provincia de Chubut

A partir de la concepción de la identidad de las personas y de los grupos como una elaboración, se plantea que la actual identidad indígena empleada por el Estado en la provincia de Chubut resulta funcional a una política que pretende evitar la emigración de los escasos pobladores de las zonas rurales de la provincia. Se afirma que tal estrategia no es novedosa y que en el pasado otras versiones de esa identidad también han resultado útiles a los proyectos del poder legítimo. Mediante un trabajo etnográfico e histórico, se analizan algunas características físicas y sociales de la zona rural de esa provincia, algunas normativas de organismos gubernamentales provinciales, y ciertos atributos pretéritos y actuales de la identidad indígena empleada por el Estado y de uno de sus símbolos, los tejidos mapuches. Lateralmente se refiere de qué manera esa identidad es considerada por algunos identificados.

La identidad indígena y sus textiles: estrategias de una política económica en la provincia de Chubut

A partir de la concepción de la identidad de las personas y de los grupos como una elaboración, se plantea que la actual identidad indígena empleada por el Estado en la provincia de Chubut resulta funcional a una política que pretende evitar la emigración de los escasos pobladores de las zonas rurales de la provincia. Se afirma que tal estrategia no es novedosa y que en el pasado otras versiones de esa identidad también han resultado útiles a los proyectos del poder legítimo. Mediante un trabajo etnográfico e histórico, se analizan algunas características físicas y sociales de la zona rural de esa provincia, algunas normativas de organismos gubernamentales provinciales, y ciertos atributos pretéritos y actuales de la identidad indígena empleada por el Estado y de uno de sus símbolos, los tejidos mapuches. Lateralmente se refiere de qué manera esa identidad es considerada por algunos identificados.

Ways of telling : research methodology for fashion textiles design

Research methodology in the discipline of Art & Design has been a topic for much debate in the academic community. The result of such avid and ongoing discussion appears to be a disciplinary obsession with research methodologies and a culture of adopting and adapting existing methodologies from more established disciplines. This has eventuated as a means of coping with academic criticism and as an attempt to elevate Art & Design to a ‘real academic status’. Whilst this adoption has had some effect in tempering the opinion of Art & Design research from more ‘serious’ academics the practice may be concealing a deeper problem for this discipline. Namely, that knowledge transfer within creative practice, particularly in fashion textiles design practice, is largely tacit in nature and not best suited to dissemination through traditional means of academic writing and publication. ----- ----- There is an opportunity to shift the academic debate away from appropriate (or inappropriate) use of methodologies and theories to demonstrate the existence (or absence) of rigor in creative practice research. In particular, the changing paradigms for the definitions of research to support new models for research quality assessment (such as the RAE in the United Kingdom and ERA in Australia) require a re-examination of the traditions of academic writing and publication in relation to this form of research. It is now appropriate to test the limits of tacit knowledge. It has been almost half a century since Michael Polanyi wrote “we know more than we can tell” (Polanyi, 1967 p.4) at a time when the only means of ‘telling’ was through academic writing and publishing in hardcopy format. ----- ----- This paper examines the academic debate surrounding research methodologies for fashion textiles design through auto-ethnographic case study and object analysis. The author argues that, while this debate is interesting, the focus should be to ask: are there more effective ways for creative practitioner researchers to disseminate their research? The aim of this research is to examine the possibilities of developing different, more effective methods of ‘telling’ to support the transfer of tacit knowledge inherent in the discipline of Fashion Textiles Design.

Sustainable fashion textiles design : value adding through technological enhancement

A key concern in the field of contemporary fashion/textiles design is the emergence of ‘fast fashion’: best explained as "buy it Friday, wear it Saturday and throw it away on Sunday" (O'Loughlin, 2007). In this contemporary retail atmosphere of “pile it high: sell it cheap” and “quick to market”, even designer goods have achieved a throwaway status. This modern culture of consumerism is the antithesis of sustainability and is proving a dilemma surrounding sustainable practice for designers and producers in the disciplines (de Blas, 2010). Design researchers including those in textiles/fashion have begun to explore what is a key question in the 21st century in order to create a vision and reason for their disciplines: Can products be designed to have added value to the consumer and hence contribute to a more sustainable industry? Fashion Textiles Design has much to answer for in contributing to the problems of unsustainable practices on a global scale in design, production and waste. However, designers within this field also have great potential to contribute to practical ‘real world’ solutions. ----- ----- This paper provides an overview of some of the design and technological developments from the fashion/textiles industry, endorsing a model where designers and technicians use their transferrable skills for wellbeing rather than desire. Smart materials in the form of responsive and adaptive fibres and fabrics combined with electro active devices, and ICT are increasingly shaping many aspects of society particularly in the leisure industry and interactive consumer products are ever more visible in healthcare. Combinations of biocompatible delivery devices with bio sensing elements can create analyse, sense and actuate early warning and monitoring systems which can be linked to data logging and patient records via intelligent networks. Patient sympathetic, ‘smart’ fashion/textiles applications based on interdisciplinary expertise utilising textiles design and technology is emerging. An analysis of a series of case studies demonstrates the potential of fashion textiles design practitioners to exploit the concept of value adding through technological garment and textiles applications and enhancement for health and wellbeing and in doing so contribute to a more sustainable future fashion/textiles design industry.

Sustainable fashion textiles research : engaging with new technologies

This article provides a discussion about how new technologies will enable Fashion Textiles Research to be disseminated amongst a new generation of producers and consumers via interactive and web technologies. How appropriate are these methods for Fashion Textiles Research? What are the advantages of these mediums and what will this mean for researchers, producers and consumers now and in the future, as the traditional platforms such as Journal Papers and Conferences, become obsolete? Can we predict the future of communicating textile research by assessing the way in which research is being conducted with the use of electronic databases, the Internet and with the emergence of electronic journals?

An approach to scenario analysis of the sustainability of an industrial sector applied to clothing and textiles in the UK

Companies aiming to be 'sustainability leaders' in their sector and governments wanting to support their ambitions need a means to assess the changes required to make a significant difference in the impact of their whole sector. Previous work on scenario analysis/scenario planning demonstrates extensive developments and applications, but as yet few attempts to integrate the 'triple bottom line' concerns of sustainability into scenario planning exercises. This paper, therefore, presents a methodology for scenario analysis of large change to an entire sector. The approach includes calculation of a 'triple bottom line graphic equaliser' to allow exploration and evaluation of the trade-offs between economic, environmental and social impacts. The methodology is applied to the UK's clothing and textiles sector, and results from the study of the sector are summarised. In reflecting on the specific study, some suggestions are made about future application of a similar methodology, including a template of candidate solutions that may lead to significant reduction in impacts. © 2007 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.