Potential of textile hemp in biomedical and composite applications

The fabrication of hemp fine powder was documented for the first time. The antibacterial properties of hemp powders and hemp plant extracts from textile hemp were investigated for the first time. Fabrication and characteristics of hemp powder blended polypropylene polymer composite filaments were investigated for the first time.

Microbial quality of hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) and flax (Linum usitatissimum L.) from plants to thermal insulation

Flax and hemp have traditionally been used mainly for textiles, but recently interest has also been focused on non-textile applications. Microbial quality throughout the whole processing chain of bast fibres has not previously been studied. This study concentrates on the microbial quality and possible microbial risks in the production chain of hemp and flax fibres and fibrous thermal insulations. In order to be able to utilize hemp and flax fibres, the bast fibres must be separated from the rest of the plant. Non-cellulosic components can be removed with various pretreatment processes, which are associated with a certain risk of microbial contamination. In this study enzymatic retting and steam explosion (STEX) were examined as pretreatment processes. On the basis of the results obtained in this study, the microbial contents on stalks of both plants studied increased at the end of the growing season and during the winter. However, by processing and mechanical separation it is possible to produce fibres containing less moulds and bacteria than the whole stem. Enzymatic treatment encouraged the growth of moulds in fibres. Steam explosion reduced the amount of moulds in fibres. Dry thermal treatment used in this study did not markedly reduce the amount of microbes. In this project an emission measurement chamber was developed which was suitable for measurements of emissions from both mat type and loose fill type insulations, and capable of interdisciplinary sampling. In this study, the highest amounts of fungal emissions were in the range of 10^3 10^5 cfu/m^3 from the flax and hemp insulations at 90% RH of air. The fungal emissions from stone wool, glass wool and recycled paper insulations were below 10^2 cfu/m^3 even at 90% RH. Equally low values were obtained from bast fibrous materials in lower humidities (at 30% and 80% RH of air). After drying of moulded insulations at 30% RH, the amounts of emitted moulds were in all cases higher compared to the emissions at 90% RH before drying. The most common fungi in bast fibres were Penicillium and Rhizopus. The widest variety of different fungi was in the untreated hemp and linseed fibres and in the commercial loose-fill flax insulation. Penicillium, Rhizopus and Paecilomyces were the most tolerant to steam explosion. According to the literature, the most common fungi in building materials and indoor air are Penicillium, Aspergillus and Cladosporium, which were all found in some of the bast fibre materials in this study. As organic materials, hemp and flax fibres contain high levels of nutrients for microbial growth. The amount of microbes can be controlled and somewhat decreased by the processing methods presented.

Evaluation of bast fibre retting systems on hemp

In this paper the effect of eight different retting methods on decorticated hemp skins were analyzed. The methods were taken from six publications that looked at the retting of different bast fibres such as ramie, flax and kenaf. The fibres were batch retted in a package dye-vat at 100oC under 2 bar of pressure. The rinsed fibres were opened twice using a Shirley cotton trash separator. The opened fibre was assessed for fibre width, fibre width variation, colour and handle. It was found that the fibre that had undergone chemical retting with 7% Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) and 0.5% Sodium Sulphite (Na2SO3) had the best diameter (18.39 micron) and the best coefficient of variation of diameter (57.32%). The fibre that was processed with 7% Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) and 0.5% Sodium Sulphite (Na2SO3) had the whitest colour (YI D1925 = 31.61). The method treated with 1% Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) and 1% Sodium Sulphite (Na2SO3) had the softest handle and the method treated with 1% Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) and pre-rinsed with 0.3% Hydrochloric Acid (HCl) showed the best conversion of decorticated skins into spin able fibre (33.9% of dry green skins). It was decided that method treated with 1% Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) and pre-rinsed with 0.3% Hydrochloric Acid (HCl) had the best fineness of fibre micron, conversion to spin able fibre (33.9% of dry green skins), whitest colour (YI D1925 = 36.13) and softest handle for the cost of chemicals involved.

The power of a single prototype : sustainable fashion textile design and the prevention of carcinogenic melanoma

Is there a role for prototyping (sketching, pattern making and sampling) in addressing real world problems of sustainability (People, Profit, and Planet), in this case social/healthcare issues, through fashion and textiles research? Skin cancer and related illnesses are a major cause of disfigurement and death in New Zealand and Australia where the rates of Melanoma, a serious form of skin cancer, are four times higher than in the Northern Hemisphere regions of USA, UK and Canada (IARC, 1992). In 2007, AUT University (Auckland University of Technology) Fashion Department and the Health Promotion Department of Cancer Society - Auckland Division (CSA) developed a prototype hat aimed at exploring a barrier type solution to prevent facial and neck skin damage. This is a paradigm shift from the usual medical research model. This paper provides an overview of the project and examines how a fashion prototype has been used to communicate emergent social, environmental, personal, physiological and technological concerns to the trans-disciplinary research team. The authors consider how the design of a product can enhance and support sustainable design practice while contributing a potential solution to an ongoing health issue. Analysis of this case study provides an insight into prototyping in fashion and textiles design, user engagement and the importance of requirements analysis in relation to sustainable development. The analysis and a successful outcome of the final prototype have provided a gateway to future collaborative research and product development.

A solution to fashion textile unsustainability

Today, polarisation of the fashion textile industry has already begun as smart, intelligent and conscientious fashion emerges as a backlash to the experience of choice fatigue, poor quality, dumb design and greenwash. But the process, development and manufacture of fashion textiles is complex. And the demand, both customer and industry driven, for new integrated product policies,2 designed to minimise environmental impacts by looking at all phases of a product's life cycle, is problematic due to complexity and a lack of networking tools. This article explores these issues through the construct of the department store of the future.

Protective legal regulation for home-based workers in Australian textile, clothing and footwear supply chains

Supply chain outsourcing has posed problems for conventional labour regulation, which focuses on employers contracting directly with workers, particularly employees. These difficulties have been exacerbated by the traditional trifurcated approach to regulation of pay and conditions, work health and safety and workers’ compensation. This paper analyses the parallel interaction of two legal developments within the Australian textile, clothing and footwear industry. The first is mandatory contractual tracking mechanisms within state and federal labour laws and the second is the duties imposed by the harmonised Work Health and Safety Acts. Their combined effect has created an innovative, fully enforceable and integrated regulatory framework for the textile, clothing and footwear industry and, it is argued, other supply chains in different industry contexts. This paper highlights how regulatory solutions can address adverse issues for workers at the bottom of contractual networks, such as fissured workplaces and capital fragmentation, by enabling regulators to harness the commercial power of business controllers at the apex to ensure compliance throughout the entire chain.

Open and closed-loop recycling of textile and apparel products

Textile waste is a significant contributor to landfill yet the majority of textiles can be recycled, allowing for the energy and fibre to be reclaimed. This chapter examines the open-loop and closed loop recycling of textile products with particular reference to the fashion and apparel context. It describes the fibres used within apparel, the current mechanical and chemical methods for textile recycling, LCA findings for each method, and applications within apparel for each. Barriers for more effective recycling include ease of integration into existing textile and apparel design methods as well as coordinated collection of post-consumer waste. The chapter concludes with a discussion of innovations that point to future trends in both open-loop and closed-loop recycling within the apparel industry.

Risk management strategies using seasonal climate forecasting in irrigated cotton production: a tale of stochastic dominance.

Decision-making in agriculture is carried out in an uncertain environment with farmers often seeking information to reduce risk. As a result of the extreme variability of rainfall and stream-flows in north-eastern Australia, water supplies for irrigated agriculture are a limiting factor and a source of risk. The present study examined the use of seasonal climate forecasting (SCF) when calculating planting areas for irrigated cotton in the northern Murray Darling Basin. Results show that minimising risk by adjusting plant areas in response to SCF can lead to significant gains in gross margin returns. However, how farmers respond to SCF is dependent on several other factors including irrigators’ attitude towards risk.

Helicoverpa armigera (Hubner): can wheat stubble protect cotton plants against attack?

When investigating strategies for Helicoverpa armigera (Hubner) control, it is important to understand oviposition behaviour. Cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) was sown into standing wheat (Triticum astivum L.) stubble in a closed arena to investigate the effect of stubble on H. armigera moth behaviour and oviposition. Infrared cameras were used to track moths and determine whether stubble acted as a physical barrier or provided camouflage to cotton plants, thereby reducing oviposition. Searching activity was observed to peak shortly before dawn (03:00 and 04:00 h) and remained high until just after dawn (4 h window). Moths spent more time resting on cotton plants than spiralling above them, and the least time flying across the arena. While female moths spent more time searching for cotton plants growing in wheat stubble, the difference in oviposition was not significant. As similar numbers of eggs were laid on cotton plants with stubble (3.5/plant SE +/- 0.87) and without stubble (2.5/plant SE +/- 0.91), wheat stubble does not appear to provide camouflage to cotton plants. There was no significant difference in the location of eggs deposited on cotton plants with and without stubble, although more eggs were laid on the tops of cotton leaves in wheat stubble. As the spatial and temporal distribution of eggs laid on the cotton plant is a crucial component of population stability, eggs laid on the upper side of leaves on cotton plants may be more prone to fatalities caused by environmental factors such as wind and rain. Therefore, although stubble did not influence the number of eggs laid, it did affect their distribution on the plant, which may result in increased mortality of eggs on cotton plants sown into standing wheat stubble.

Phosphorus concentrations in the leaves of cotton in tropical Australia are determined by temperature.

Previous research on P leaf analysis for detecting deficiencies in cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.) has not considered temperature as a determining factor. This is despite correlations between leaf P content and temperature being observed in other crops. As part of research into a new cotton farming system for the semi-arid tropics of Australia, we conducted two P fertiliser rate experiments on recently cleared un-cropped (bicarbonate P < 5 mg kg- 1) and previously cropped (bicarbonate P 26 mg kg- 1) soil. They aimed to develop P requirements and more importantly to determine if temperature affects the leaf P concentrations used to diagnose P deficiencies. In 2002, optimal yield on un-cropped, low P soil was achieved with a 60 kg P ha- 1 rate. In 2003, residual P from the 40 kg P ha- 1 treatment produced optimal yield. On cropped, high P soil there was no yield response to treatments up to 100 kg P ha- 1. On low P soil, a positive correlation was observed between P concentration in the youngest fully-unfurled leaf (YFUL), fertiliser rate, and mean diurnal temperature in the seven days prior to sampling. On high P soil, a positive correlation was observed between the YFUL and mean diurnal temperature however there was no correlation with fertiliser rate. These results show that YFUL analysis can be used to diagnose P deficiencies in cotton, provided the temperature prior to sampling is considered.

Phosphorus nutrition and tolerance of cotton to water stress: II. Water relations, free and bound water and leaf expansion rate

In previous experiments, increased leaf-Phosphorus (P) content with increasing P supply enhanced the individual leaf expansion and water content of fresh cotton leaves in a severely drying soil. In this paper, we report on the bulk water content of leaves and its components, free and bound water, along with other measures of plant water status, in expanding cotton leaves of various ages in a drying soil with different P concentrations. The bound water in living tissue is more likely to play a major role in tolerance to abiotic stresses by maintaining the structural integrity and/or cell wall extensibility of the leaves, whilst an increased amount of free water might be able to enhance solute accumulation, leading to better osmotic adjustment and tolerance to water stress, and maintenance of the volumes of sub-cellular compartments for expansive leaf growth. There were strong correlations between leaf-P%, leaf water (total, free and bound water) and leaf expansion rate (LER) under water stress conditions in a severely drying soil. Increased soil-P enhanced the uptake of P from a drying soil, leading to increased supply of osmotically active inorganic solutes to the cells in growing leaves. This appears to have led to the accumulation of free water and more bound water, ultimately leading to increased leaf expansion rates as compared to plants in low P soil under similar water stress conditions. The greater amount of bound and free water in the high-P plants was not necessarily associated with changes in cell turgor, and appears to have maintained the cell-wall properties and extensibility under water stressed conditions in soils that are nutritionally P-deficient.

Phosphorus nutrition and tolerance of cotton to water stress I. Seed cotton yield and leaf morphology

Seed cotton yield and morphological changes in leaf growth were examined under drying soil with different phosphorus (P) concentrations in a tropical climate. Frequent soil drying is likely to induce a decrease in nutrients particularly P due to reduced diffusion and poor uptake, in addition to restrictions in available water, with strong interactive effects on plant growth and functioning. Increased soil P in field and in-ground soil core studies increased the seed cotton yield and related morphological growth parameters in a drying soil, with hot (daily maximum temperature >33°C) and dry conditions (relative humidity, 25% to 35%), particularly during peak boll formation and filling stage. The soil water content in the effective rooting zone (top 0.4 m) decreased to -1.5 MPa by day 5 of the soil drying cycle. However, the increased seed cotton yield for the high-P plants was closely related to increasing leaf area with increased P supply. Plant height, leaf fresh mass and leaf area per plant were positively related to the leaf P%, which increased with increasing P supply. Low P plants were lower in plant height, leaf area, and leaf tissue water in the drying soil. Individual leaf area and the water content of the fresh leaf (ratio of dry mass to fresh mass) were significantly dependent on leaf P%.

Temporal variation in arthropod sampling effectiveness: The case for using the beat sheet method in cotton

Predatory insects and spiders are key elements of integrated pest management (IPM) programmes in agricultural crops such as cotton. Management decisions in IPM programmes should to be based on a reliable and efficient method for counting both predators and pests. Knowledge of the temporal constraints that influence sampling is required because arthropod abundance estimates are likely to vary over a growing season and within a day. Few studies have adequately quantified this effect using the beat sheet, a potentially important sampling method. We compared the commonly used methods of suction and visual sampling to the beat sheet, with reference to an absolute cage clamp method for determining the abundance of various arthropod taxa over 5 weeks. There were significantly more entomophagous arthropods recorded using the beat sheet and cage clamp methods than by using suction or visual sampling, and these differences were more pronounced as the plants grew. In a second trial, relative estimates of entomophagous and phytophagous arthropod abundance were made using beat sheet samples collected over a day. Beat sheet estimates of the abundance of only eight of the 43 taxa examined were found to vary significantly over a day. Beat sheet sampling is recommended in further studies of arthropod abundance in cotton, but researchers and pest management advisors should bear in mind the time of season and time of day effects.

Soil properties and crop yields in a dryland Vertisol sown with cotton-based crop rotations

Information on the effects of growing cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.)-based crop rotations on soil quality of dryland Vertisols is sparse. The objective of this study was to quantify the effects of growing cereal and leguminous crops in rotation with dryland cotton on physical and chemical properties of a grey Vertisol near Warra, SE Queensland, Australia. The experimental treatments, selected after consultations with local cotton growers, were continuous cotton (T1), cotton-sorghum (Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench.) (T2), cotton-wheat (Triticum aestivum L.) double cropped (T3), cotton-chickpea (Cicer arietinum L.) double cropped followed by wheat (T4) and cotton-wheat (T5). From 1993 to 1996 land preparation was by chisel ploughing to about 0.2 m followed by two to four cultivations with a Gyral tyne cultivator. Thereafter all crops were sown with zero tillage except for cultivation with a chisel plough to about 0.07-0.1 m after cotton picking to control heliothis moth pupae. Soil was sampled from 1996 to 2004 and physical (air-filled porosity of oven-dried soil, an indicator of soil compaction; plastic limit; linear shrinkage; dispersion index) and chemical (pH in 0.01 M CaCl2, organic carbon, exchangeable Ca, Mg, K and Na contents) properties measured. Crop rotation affected soil properties only with respect to exchangeable Na content and air-filled porosity. In the surface 0.15 m during 2000 and 2001 lowest air-filled porosity occurred with T1 (average of 34.6 m3/100 m3) and the highest with T3 (average of 38.9 m3/100 m3). Air-filled porosity decreased in the same depth between 1997 and 1998 from 45.0 to 36.1 m3/100 m3, presumably due to smearing and compaction caused by shallow cultivation in wet soil. In the subsoil, T1 and T2 frequently had lower air-filled porosity values in comparison with T3, T4 and T5, particularly during the early stages of the experiment, although values under T1 increased subsequently. In general, compaction was less under rotations which included a wheat crop (T3, T4, T5). For example, average air-filled porosity (in m3/100 m3) in the 0.15-0.30 m depth from 1996 to 1999 was 19.8 with both T1 and T2, and 21.2 with T3, 21.1 with T4 and 21.5 with T5. From 2000 to 2004, average air-filled porosity (in m3/100 m3) in the same depth was 21.3 with T1, 19.0 with T2, 19.8 with T3, 20.0 with T4 and 20.5 with T5. The rotation which included chickpea (T4) resulted in the lowest exchangeable Na content, although differences among rotations were small. Where only a cereal crop with a fibrous root system was sown in rotation with cotton (T2, T3, T5) linear shrinkage in the 0.45-0.60 m depth was lower than in rotations, which included tap-rooted crops such as chickpea (T4) or continuous cotton (T1). Dispersion index and organic carbon decreased, and plastic limit increased with time. Soil organic carbon stocks decreased at a rate of 1.2 Mg/ha/year. Lowest average cotton lint yield occurred with T2 (0.54 Mg/ha) and highest wheat yield with T3 (2.8 Mg/ha). Rotations which include a wheat crop are more likely to result in better soil structure and cotton lint yield than cotton-sorghum or continuous cotton.