Woven cultures : New insights into Pictish and Viking culture contact using the implements of textile production

This paper is based on the undergraduate dissertation of Lindsey Stirling, which was supervised by Karen Milek, and which won the Society of Medieval Archaeology's John Hurst Memorial Dissertation Prize Acknowledgements This research would not have been possible without the assistance of Dr Martin Goldberg at the National Museum of Scotland, Lynda Aiano at Tankerness House Museum, Orkney, and Beverley Ballin Smith. The authors also wish to thank the two anonymous reviewers who provided valuable comments on earlier versions of this paper.

Woven cultures : New insights into Pictish and Viking culture contact using the implements of textile production

This paper is based on the undergraduate dissertation of Lindsey Stirling, which was supervised by Karen Milek, and which won the Society of Medieval Archaeology's John Hurst Memorial Dissertation Prize Acknowledgements This research would not have been possible without the assistance of Dr Martin Goldberg at the National Museum of Scotland, Lynda Aiano at Tankerness House Museum, Orkney, and Beverley Ballin Smith. The authors also wish to thank the two anonymous reviewers who provided valuable comments on earlier versions of this paper.

Fibre production by beef cows

Cattle grow and shed fibre which assists them adapt to seasonal changes in the environment. In the absence of cattle fibre production data for southern Australia, Angus, Hereford, Simmental and Limousin cows and crosses between these breeds grazing perennial pastures at Hamilton, Victoria were sampled in late winter. The fibre-growing area on the sides of cattle was measured, fibre sampled at the mid-side site and the sampling area determined. Fibre was tested for fibre diameter distribution, clean washing yield and fibre length measured. Cows were 3-7 years of age, liveweights were 412-712 kg and the mean fibre-growing area was 2.2 m². This produced an average 682 g of total fibre (range 3461-175 g). The mean fibre diameter of all fibres was 51.7 μm (range 43-62 μm) and 18% of fibres were 36 μm (range 6-39%). The clean washing yield was 92.4% (range 87.4-95.8%). Fibre length averaged 21 mm. Increasing the age, liveweight and condition score of cows and increasing weight of clean fibre were associated with significant increases in mean fibre diameter. Breed of cattle did not affect fibre production (P > 0.1) but did affect mean fibre diameter (P < 0.05). The quantity of fibre production indicates potential for low value textile production. The high level of total fibre production, twice that of an earlier report, and fibre shedding from cattle suggests that white fibre-producing animals such as Merino sheep, Angora and cashmere goats and alpaca should avoid using cattle-handling facilities, particularly in the month before shearing.

The Aran jumper: Crafting a Transatlantic Heritage

The garment we now recognise as the Aran jumper emerged as an international symbol of Ireland from the twin twentieth century transatlantic flows of migration and tourism. Its power as a heritage object derives from: 1) the myth commonly associated with the object, in which the corpse of a drowned fisherman is identified and claimed by his family due to the stitch patterns of his jumper (Pádraig Ó Síochain 1962; Annette Lynch and Mitchell Strauss 2014); 2) the meanings attached to those stitch patterns, which have been read, for example, as genealogical records, representations of the natural landscape and references to Christian and pre-Christian ‘Celtic’ religion (Heinz Kiewe 1967; Catherine Nash 1996); and 3) booming popular interest in textile heritage on both sides of the Atlantic, fed by the reframing of domestic crafts such as knitting as privileged leisure pursuits (Rachel Maines 2009; Jo Turney 2009). The myth of the drowned fisherman plays into transatlantic migration narratives of loss and reclamation, promising a shared heritage that needs only to be decoded. The idea of the garment’s surface acting as text (or map) situates it within a preliterate idyll of romantic primitivism, while obscuring the circumstances of its manufacture. The contemporary resurgence in home textile production as recreation, mediated through transnational online networks, creates new markets for heritage textile products while attracting critical attention to the processes through which such objects, and mythologies, are produced. The Aran jumper’s associations with kinship, domesticity and national character make it a powerful tool in the promotion of ancestral (or genealogical) tourism, through marketing efforts such as The Gathering 2013. Nash’s (2010; 2014) work demonstrates the potential for such touristic encounters to disrupt and enrich public conceptions of heritage, belonging and relatedness. While the Aran jumper has been used to commodify a simplistic sense of mutuality between Ireland and north America, it carries complex transatlantic messages in both directions.

Street Space—North Street, Belfast

The Belfast city center is fractured, divided by motorways, parking lots, empty buildings, and big box stores. Its 19th-century heyday put it on the international map of textile production, which transformed and enriched its built structure. This tight architectural fabric was slowly destroyed in the 1940s by the Blitz, in the 1970s by road plans and “the troubles” and in the 1990s by large retail buildings. Few pedestrian streets traverse Belfast, and among them, most are recently-developed conduits for the passage of shoppers from one chain store to the next.Within this seemingly bleak urban landscape, there remain a few areas that offer a richer, more architecturally and socially diverse, more memory-laden conception of public space. Current redevelopment plans, however, threaten the mere existence of these few remaining historic streets in Belfast.This reality inspired the current project of one of the Masters in Architecture design units at Queen’s University Belfast. Our team (led by urban designer Michael Corr and myself) has been exploring North Street, one of the main arteries in Belfast City Center. Although North Street has a reputation for being run-down, derelict, and in need of redevelopment, it is one of the few intact 19th-century streets left in the area, and as such is worthy of study as an example of public space that is not strictly synonymous with commercial space.

Auge y decadencia de la fábrica de hilados y tejidos de algodón La Industrial, 1935-1999 (Estudios)

Este artículo presenta una aproximación general al mundo obrero de Quito, tomando como estudio de caso una de las fábricas de textiles e hilados de la ciudad, entre los años treinta y noventa del siglo XX. El autor presenta, en primer lugar, una descripción sobre la industria en la ciudad, para centrar, luego, su atención en la Fábrica La Industrial, su producción textil, ambiente de trabajo y dinámicas internas, la vida de los obreros, su organización sindical y relaciones con los propietarios de la fábrica. Las fuentes que alimentan el análisis son documentación proveniente de los acervos administrativos de la fábrica, litigios, notas de prensa relacionadas con las protestas y movilizaciones sociales de los trabajadores en reivindicación de sus demandas salariales y laborales, así como testimonios de exobreros de La Industrial.

Desenvolvimento de membranas porosas de alumina para fins de tratamento de efluente industrial têxtil

Textile production has been considered as an activity of high environmental impact due to the generation of large volumes of waste water with high load of organic compounds and strongly colored effluents, toxic and difficult biodegradability. This thesis deals with obtaining porous alumina ceramic membranes for filtration of textile effluent in the removal of contaminants, mainly color and turbidity. Two types of alumina with different particle sizes as a basis for the preparation of formulation for mass production of ceramic samples and membranes. The technological properties of the samples were evaluated after using sintering conditions: 1,350ºC-2H, 1,450ºC-30M, 1,450ºC-2H, 1,475ºC-30M and 1,475ºC-2H. The sintered samples were characterized by XRD, XRF, AG, TG, DSC, DL, AA, MEA, RL, MRF-3P, SEM and Intrusion Porosimetry by Mercury. After the characterization, a standard membrane was selected with their respective sintering condition for the filterability tests. The effluent was provided by a local Textile Industry and characterized at the entry and exit of the treatment plant. A statistical analysis was used to study the effluent using the following parameters: pH, temperature, EC, SS, SD, oil and grease, turbidity, COD, DO, total phosphorus, chlorides, phenols, metals and fecal coliform. The filtered effluent was evaluated by using the same parameters. These results demonstrate that the feasibility of the use of porous alumina ceramic membranes for removing contaminants from textile effluent with improved average pore size of 0.4 micrometre (distribution range varying from 0,025 to 2.0 micrometre), with total porosity of 29.66%, and average percentages of color removal efficiency of 89.02%, 92.49% of SS, turbidity of 94.55%, metals 2.70% (manganese) to 71.52% (iron) according to each metal and COD removal of 72.80%

Reúso de água no processamento de jeans na indústria têxtil

This study aims to assess the potential for industrial reuse of textile wastewater, after passing through a physical and chemical pretreatment, into denim washing wet processing operations in an industrial textile laundry, with no need for complementary treatments and dilutions. The methodology and evaluation of the proposed tests were based on the production techniques used in the company and upgraded for the experiments tested. The characterization of the treated effluent for 16 selected parameters and the development of a monitoring able to tailor the treated effluent for final disposal in accordance with current legislation was essential for the initiation of testing for reuse. The parameters color, turbidity, SS and pH used were satisfactory as control variables and presents simple determination methods. The denim quality variables considered were: color, odor, appearance and soft handle. The tests were started on a pilot scale following complexity factors attributed to the processes, in denim fabric and jeans, which demonstrated the possibility of reuse, because there was no interference in the processes and at quality of the tested product. Industrial scale tests were initiated by a step control that confirmed the methodology efficiency applied to identify the possibility of reuse by tests that precede each recipe to be processed. 556 replicates were performed in production scale for 47 different recipes of denim washing. The percentage of water reuse was 100% for all processes and repetitions performed after the initial adjustment testing phase. All the jeans were framed with the highest quality for internal control and marketed, being accepted by contractors. The full-scale use of treated wastewater, supported by monitoring and evaluation and control methodology suggested in this study, proved to be valid in textile production, not given any negative impact to the quality the produced jeans under the presented conditions. It is believed that this methodology can be extrapolated to other laundries to determine the possibility of reuse in denim washing wet processing with the necessary modifications to each company.

Stitching Settler Identities: Canadian Quilts and Their Makers, 1800-1880

Stitching Settler Identities: Canadian Quilts and their Makers, 1800-1880 explores the making, use, and circulation of handmade settler quilts as representation of nineteenth-century women’s social, cultural and economic histories in Canada. An important part of Canadian settlement history is the making and use of handmade quilts in the settler homestead. Handmade coverlets that provided both physical and emotional warmth in the home were a measure of a settler-woman’s careful management of resources and a display of her innovation and creativity. Few settler women recorded their daily experiences; however, most women could sew and quilts offered a method of expression that allowed them to reflect and portray their identities. Thus far, the few studies of quilts have been limited to exhibition catalogues or research that considers a quilt’s aesthetics or its historic significance. While several scholars have called for a reclassification of textile production and needle arts to advance the way in which settler women were viewed as social beings – creating, producing, communicating, and circulating cultural values, most studies on quilts have overlooked a coverlet’s materiality. This study aims to expand the research on quilts as material culture within the context of art history by also considering a quilt’s materiality and when possible, its maker's biography.

Desenvolvimento de membranas porosas de alumina para fins de tratamento de efluente industrial têxtil

Textile production has been considered as an activity of high environmental impact due to the generation of large volumes of waste water with high load of organic compounds and strongly colored effluents, toxic and difficult biodegradability. This thesis deals with obtaining porous alumina ceramic membranes for filtration of textile effluent in the removal of contaminants, mainly color and turbidity. Two types of alumina with different particle sizes as a basis for the preparation of formulation for mass production of ceramic samples and membranes. The technological properties of the samples were evaluated after using sintering conditions: 1,350ºC-2H, 1,450ºC-30M, 1,450ºC-2H, 1,475ºC-30M and 1,475ºC-2H. The sintered samples were characterized by XRD, XRF, AG, TG, DSC, DL, AA, MEA, RL, MRF-3P, SEM and Intrusion Porosimetry by Mercury. After the characterization, a standard membrane was selected with their respective sintering condition for the filterability tests. The effluent was provided by a local Textile Industry and characterized at the entry and exit of the treatment plant. A statistical analysis was used to study the effluent using the following parameters: pH, temperature, EC, SS, SD, oil and grease, turbidity, COD, DO, total phosphorus, chlorides, phenols, metals and fecal coliform. The filtered effluent was evaluated by using the same parameters. These results demonstrate that the feasibility of the use of porous alumina ceramic membranes for removing contaminants from textile effluent with improved average pore size of 0.4 micrometre (distribution range varying from 0,025 to 2.0 micrometre), with total porosity of 29.66%, and average percentages of color removal efficiency of 89.02%, 92.49% of SS, turbidity of 94.55%, metals 2.70% (manganese) to 71.52% (iron) according to each metal and COD removal of 72.80%

The Production of Ligninolytic Enzymes by Marine-Derived Basidiomycetes and Their Biotechnological Potential in the Biodegradation of Recalcitrant Pollutants and the Treatment of Textile Effluents

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Production of banana fiber yarns for technical textile reinforced composites

[EN]Natural fibers have been used as an alternative to synthetic ones for their greener character; banana fibers have the advantage of coming from an agricultural residue. Fibers have been extracted by mechanical means from banana tree pseudostems, as a strategy to valorize banana crops residues. To increase the mechanical properties of the composite, technical textiles can be used as reinforcement, instead of short fibers. To do so, fibers must be spun and woven. The aim of this paper is to show the viability of using banana fibers to obtain a yarn suitable to be woven, after an enzymatic treatment, which is more environmentally friendly.

Risk management strategies using seasonal climate forecasting in irrigated cotton production: a tale of stochastic dominance.

Decision-making in agriculture is carried out in an uncertain environment with farmers often seeking information to reduce risk. As a result of the extreme variability of rainfall and stream-flows in north-eastern Australia, water supplies for irrigated agriculture are a limiting factor and a source of risk. The present study examined the use of seasonal climate forecasting (SCF) when calculating planting areas for irrigated cotton in the northern Murray Darling Basin. Results show that minimising risk by adjusting plant areas in response to SCF can lead to significant gains in gross margin returns. However, how farmers respond to SCF is dependent on several other factors including irrigators’ attitude towards risk.