The early tariff duties on wool and woolen goods, 1789-1824.

Thesis (A.B.)--Indiana University, 1907.

Improvement of adhesion of conductive polypyrrole coating on wool and polyester fabrics using atmospheric plasma treatment

In this paper wool and polyester fabrics were pretreated with atmospheric plasma glow discharge (APGD) to improve the ability of the substrate to bond with anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid doped conducting polypyrrole coating. A range of APGD gas mixtures and treatment times were investigated. APGD treated fabrics were tested for surface contact angle, wettability and surface energy change. Effect of the plasma treatment on the binding strength was analyzed by studying abrasion resistance, surface resistivity and reflectance. Investigations showed that treated fabrics exhibited better hydrophilicity and increased surface energy. Surface treatment by an APGD gas mixture of 95% helium/5% nitrogen yielded the best results with respect to coating uniformity, abrasion resistance and conductivity.

Thermal conductivity studies on wool fabrics with conductive coatings

Methods of improving the thermal conductivity of wool fabrics have been investigated. Thermal conductivity measurement techniques, influence of synthesis parameters on the thermal conductivity of polypyrrole (PPy)-coated wool fabrics, and the relationship between electrical conductivity and thermal conductivity of PPy-coated wool fabrics are presented. An improvement in thermal conductivity was observed when fabrics were coated with the PPy. The thermal conductivity increased with the increase of pyrrole concentration and synthesis time. Anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid and ferric chloride showed an optimal concentration for their influence on the thermal conductivity of the coated fabric. The improvement of thermal conductivity of wool fabrics is also investigated by Physical Vapor Deposition technique.

Fluorescence and conductivity studies on wool

An optimized synthetic method for the production of fluorescent conductive wool using pyrene, rhodamine B and fluorescein is reported. The application of fluorescent conductive polymers to wool was studied using solution and mist polymerization techniques. The effects of incorporating fluorescent dopants into the polymerization solution as well as the encapsulation of fluorescent dyes in a polypyrrole (PPy) micelle were also investigated. It was determined on the basis of both conductivity and fluorescence measurements that the encapsulation of dyes in PPy onto the surface of textiles gave the best results.

Photo-catalysis of red wine stains using titanium dioxide sol-gel coatings on wool fabrics

This paper investigated the use of titanium dioxide sol-gel coatings to photo-catalyse red wine stains on wool fabrics. Coatings were produced by the hydrolysis and condensation of titanium butoxide (Ti(OC4H9)4) on the surface of wool fabrics after pad application. Coatings were partially converted to the anatase form of titanium dioxide by prolonged immersion in boiling water. The coating presence was confirmed using scanning electron microscopy, UVspectrophotometry and atomic force microscopy. Coated samples were measured for photo-catalytic activity by degrading red wine stains from the surface of the coated fabric. The level of photocatalysis was determined for each of the coating systems after 168 hours. Red wine stains were photo-catalysed and level of staining was reduced from the UV exposed surface of the coated wool fabric.

The effect of pH on wool fiber diameter and fabric dimensions

Wool fabrics are often treated under conditions of varying pH in dyeing and finishing processes. It is known that in air the dimensions of wool fabrics change with the amount of fiber swelling at different regain. In this work, it has been shown that a similar relationship between fiber swelling and fabric dimensions existed in water at different pH values. The diameters of Merino and Corriedale wool fibers in water at different pH values were measured with an OFDA 2000 fiber diameter analyzer, fitted with a specially constructed accessory liquid cell. The results showed that the mean diameters of swollen wool fibers in water varied with pH. Minimum swelling was obtained in the range pH 5-7. It was found that the dimensions of wool fabric in water were dependent on the pH. The changes in fiber diameter in water could be attributed to changes in ionic interactions between charged acid and basic groups in wool protein with variations in pH.

Effect of atmospheric plasma treatment on pad-dyeing of natural dyes on wool

Plasma treatment is an emerging surface modification technique that alters dye uptake of wool without using chemicals or water for pre-treatment. Padding is an established continuous dyeing technique known for its efficient use of water, time and energy. This study combined these two techniques for colouration of wool fabric using two natural dyes derived from the Acacia plant family. The investigation focused on the effects of plasma treatment and obtaining unique patterning effects. Helium (100%) and a mixture of helium and nitrogen (95%/5%) were used as the plasma gases under atmospheric conditions. Plasma treated wool fabric was padded with the above natural dyes. Copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate were applied on the dyed fabric as mordant yielding neutral shades of beige and grey respectively. Up to a 30% enhancement of dye adsorption on plasma treated wool substrate was observed as compared to untreated sample for both gases used. This higher adsorption indicates the hydrophilic character of the natural dyes used. Key performance parameters such as fastness to washing, rubbing and light were tested and found to be satisfactory. A single process tone-on-tone pattern was achieved by controlling the plasma exposure of treated area. This study concluded that a merger of natural dyes with modern plasma treatment and padding techniques for wool colouration was feasible.

The effect of humidity and temperature on Wool Comfort Meter assessment of single jersey wool fabrics

The Wool ComfortMeter provides an objective measurement of the fabric-evoked prickle discomfort rating provided by wearers. This work aimed to quantify the sensitivity of the Wool ComfortMeter over a range of different temperature and humidity conditions to determine the recommended test conditions for its operation. The design was: three temperatures (notionally 20, 25 and 30°C) at three relative humidities (RHs, notionally 50, 65 and 80%) each with two replicates, using six different wool single jersey knits (mean fibre diameter 19.5–27.0 µm). As it was difficult to achieve exactly some of the extreme combinations of temperature and RH, some combinations were repeated, providing a total of 23 different assessment conditions. Data were analysed using restricted maximum likelihood mixed model analysis. The best fixed model included RH, RH2, temperature and the interaction of temperature and RH, accounting for 95% of the variation in Wool ComfortMeter readings. Wool ComfortMeter values were almost constant at 55–60% RH. Generally, the Wool ComfortMeter value reduced with increasing RH > 60% at temperatures of 25°C and 28.5°C as the regain of the fabric increased. However, at 20°C little change was detected as RH was increased from 50 to 80% as there were only small changes in fabric regain. The observed effects were in a good agreement with existing knowledge on the effect of regain on the mechanical properties of wool fibre. Wool ComfortMeter is best operated under standard conditions for textile testing of 65% RH and 20°C.

Effects of ultrasonic treatment on wool fibre and fabric properties

The protein structures of wool, treated in fabric form with ultrasonics for different time durations, were analysed by X-ray diffraction (XRD) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR), in comparison with the wool without ultrasonic treatment. Fabric water absorption and tensile properties were measured in addition to the fibre micro-structure analysis. It is shown that while the ultrasonic treatment had little effect on the fibre crystallinity, some chemical structures in the protein were altered to some extent during the process. Disruption of fibre internal waxy lipids upon ultrasonic treatment provided the fibres with increased water absorption. Protein chains in the macro fibrils were shown to be rearranged to a more regular and less flexible structure, as a result of the ultrasonic treatment. Fabric tensile tests showed an increased tenacity and a reduced extensibility to the ultrasonically treated fabric. Prolonged ultrasonic treatment, however, significantly reduced both fabric tenacity and extensibility.