Exploitation as a Path to Development: Sweatshop Labour, Micro-Unfairness, and the Non-Worseness Claim

Sweatshop labour is sometimes defended from critics by arguments that stress the voluntariness of the worker’s choice, and the fact that sweatshops provide a source of income where no other similar source exists. The idea is if it is exploitation—as their opponents charge—it is mutually beneficial and consensual exploitation. This defence appeals to the non-worseness claim (NWC), which says that if exploitation is better for the exploited party than neglect, it cannot be seriously wrong. The NWC renders otherwise exploitative—and therefore morally wrong—transactions permissible, making the exploitation of the global poor a justifiable path to development. In this paper, I argue that the use of NWC for the case of sweatshops is misleading. After reviewing and strengthening the exploitation claims made concerning sweatshops, most importantly by refuting certain allegations that a micro-unfairness account of exploitation cannot evaluate sweatshop labour as exploitative, I then argue that even if this practice may seem permissible due to benefits otherwise unavailable to the global poor, there remains a duty to address the background conditions that make this form of wrong-doing possible, which the NWC cannot accommodate. I argue that the NWC denies this by unreasonably limiting its scope and is therefore incomplete, and ultimately unconvincing.

Resistência carnavalesca ao espetáculo global

Este artigo apresenta uma proposta de aplicação crítica pós-moderna do "espetáculo" de Debord e do "carnaval" de Bakhtin às encenações que têm acontecido nas ruas das cidades, nos campi de universidades e na Internet resistindo à nova economia globalizada. Na última década, a Administração Pública passou por uma virada pós-moderna, ficando presa às encenações conflitantes de um espetáculo corporativo orquestrado pela mídia e ao carnaval de resistência do discurso de globalização. Pretende-se neste artigo teorizar a interação do espetáculo e do carnaval como construções teatrais de poder e resistência empresarial e estatal. São analisados o crescimento do espetáculo da indústria de monitoramento, que atesta códigos corporativos de conduta em narrativas de progresso, e os carnavais anti-sweatshop1 e anti-globalização, que desempenham um roteiro de entrega no teatro de rua, nos shows de moda anti-sweatshop e no ativismo cibernético.

Consumer’s purchase intention of ethical fashion. Examining beliefs about fashion industry and attitudes towards ethical fashion

Globalization and the developments of supply chain have made inexpensive labor and the low production costs of developing countries available to businesses worldwide. Unfortunately, these developments have also led to the exploitation of human and natural resources. The increasing supply of cheap and fashionable clothing has created a contradiction between consumers’ concerns for sustainability and their purchase behavior in the fashion industry. Since the uncovering of several sweatshop scandals in the 1980’s and 1990’s ethical fashion brands have started to emerge. Ethical fashion has sparked the interest of consumers and studies have shown promising positive attitudes towards it. However, these attitudes have failed to translate into action and purchase behavior of ethical fashion has not reached the expectations. In order to translate the positive attitudes into buying companies must understand consumer’s motivations and reasons behind the purchase decision. The objective of this study is to understand the antecedents behind young consumer’s purchase intention of ethical fashion. The study is based on the theory of planned behavior which has been widely used to study consumer behavior and purchase decisions. The theory has also been used in ethical decision-making and fashion context before. According to the theory, in order to understand purchase intentions consumer’s attitudes toward buying ethical fashion were studied. The theory also states that attitudes are formed from beliefs, thus, consumer’s beliefs about the fashion industry were studied. To contribute to existing research, the effect of sweatshop issues and environmental issues were compared. The data was collected from university students (n=617) with an online survey. The results were analyzed by statistical methods and they revealed that young Finnish consumers hold positive attitudes towards buying ethical fashion as well as positive purchase intentions of ethical fashion. A strong relationship was found between positive attitudes and positive purchase intentions. Also, the more negative consumers’ beliefs of the fashion industry were the more positive their attitudes toward buying ethical fashion were. In contradiction to previous research this study revealed that environmental issues had greater effect on attitudes than sweatshop issues. Interesting differences between consumers were found depending on their field of education. Students from humanities and social sciences held the most negative beliefs as well as most positive attitudes and purchase intentions of ethical fashion.

Cosmopolitanism and confrontation : realizing consumer responsibility in a globalized marketplace

Ce mémoire explore des façons de conceptualiser la responsabilité dans des cas où des individus contribuent de façon peu significative à des torts collectifs éloignés. Pour contextualiser la discussion, la relation entre des actes de consommation et la perpétuation des « sweatshops » dans l’industrie des textiles et des chaussures est utilisée. Une approche basée sur les droits humains est déployée pour définir le tort qui est présent dans les usines de textiles et une conceptualisation de la connection est proposée selon la notion de la structure sociale. Guidé par la notion de « unstructured collective harms » proposée par Christopher Kutz, et en comparaison avec des notions de responsabilité qui mettent la responsabilité nationale en premier plan, les conclusions qui sont offertes ici sont centrées sur l’importance de la confrontation du consommateur pour remédier aux effets du problème d’action collective qui est au coeur de la création des torts collectifs lointains. Finalement, l’importance du cosmopolitanisme comme une façon de stabiliser des théories de responsabilité à travers les frontières est mis en évidence.