Les effets de revêtements de surface sur la dissolution et la bioaccumulation de nanoparticules d'oxyde de zinc par l'algue unicellulaire, C. reinhardtii

Au cours de la dernière décennie, les nanoparticules ont connu un essor sans précédent dans plusieurs domaines. On peut retrouver ces nanoparticules dans des secteurs aussi variés tels que la médecine, l’électronique, les écrans solaires, les cosmétiques et les plastiques, pour ne nommer que ceux-là. Cette utilisation massive a eu un effet pervers sur l’environnement, sachant qu’une grande partie de ces produits se sont retrouvés inévitablement dans les milieux naturels. Plusieurs études révèlent qu’autant la présence des nanoparticules que leurs produits de dissolution sont à prendre en considération lorsque des travaux toxicologiques ou le devenir de ces matériaux sont étudiés. Il est désormais clair que les propriétés de surface de ces nanoparticules jouent un rôle central sur leur comportement dans les solutions aqueuses; que ce soit les interactions avec des organismes ou entre les particules elles-mêmes. Afin d’évaluer le devenir de nZnO, une étude sur la dissolution ainsi que la bioaccumulation a été réalisée avec l’algue modèle Chlamydomonas reinhardtii en présence de nanoparticules ayant différents enrobages. Les nanoparticules d’oxyde de zinc suivantes ont été étudiées : (i) nZnO sans enrobage (nZnO); (ii) nZnO avec enrobage d’acide polyacrylique (nZnO-PAA) et (iii) nZnO avec enrobage d’hexamétaphosphate de sodium (nZnO-HMP). La dissolution était mesurée à l’aide de trois techniques : ultrafiltration par centrifugation (CU); technique potentiométrique (scanned stripping chronopotentiometry, SSCP) et spectrométrie de masse – plasma à couplage inductif couplé à une résine échangeuse d’ions (resin-based inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry, resin-based ICP-MS). Les résultats obtenus démontrent une grande tendance à la dissolution pour le nZnO (presque totale) tandis que pour le nZnO-PAA et le nZnO-HMP, la dissolution est dépendante de la nature de l’enrobage le composant. Pour la bioaccumulation sur l’algue testée, les données montrent une grande dépendance au zinc libre issu de la dissolution pour nZnO et nZnO-PAA. À l’inverse, le nZnO-HMP démontre une bioaccumulation plus élevée par comparaison aux mêmes concentrations d’expositions du zinc libre, expliquée par la stimulation de l’internalisation du zinc provoqué par la présence de phosphate constituant l’enrobage de nZnO-HMP.

Desenvolvimento de sistemas líquido-cristalinos multifuncionais contendo nanopartículas de TiO2 para proteção solar e liberação controlada de terpinem-4-ol

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Planejamento, síntese e avaliação fotoprotetora de novos compostos híbridos derivados do resveratrol, cinamatos e avobenzona planejados como filtros solares

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Estudo do potencial de associações de ZnO com os produtos naturais ácido cafeico e ferúlico como filtros solares híbridos: [recurso eletrônico]

In this work were studied associations of ZnO with the natural products caffeic and feluric acids. Two preparation methods were used, that is, the sol-gel and a reflux procedure. In the sol-gel method, ZnO is produced by the basics hydrolysis of precursors in the presence of the organic filters (caffeic and feluric acids), which results in 30 nm (or less) ZnO particles with the organic filters (in dissociated form) bonded to the surface of ZnO. In the reflux method, a dispersion of ZnO in a water/ethanol mixture was kept under reflux (50oC/4h) in the presence of the organic acids. The ZnO particles used in the reflux method have a higher diameter than sol-gel ZnO particles, but the prepared associated product ZnO/Organic acids were similar. Despite of the difference in relation to crystallinity between the products, the preparation methods resulted in analogous associations with respect to the interaction of the organic filters with the ZnO surface. The caffeic/ZnO associations presented low photostability, which lead to the degradation of the organic filter. The other associations (feluric acid/ZnO) presented satisfactory results. The FT-IR spectroscopy confirmed the formation of the association, and the nature of the bond formed compared with the Zn-O bond in Zn2+/Felutic acid complexes. The isolated organic and inorganic filters, along with the associations were analyzed by diffuse reflectance spectroscopy and Uv-vis spectroscopy. The absorption edges and the critical wavelengths were analyzed and the effects of Zn-O bonds in feluric acid/ZnO associations described as a function of the relative position of the π/π* system of the organic filter. Finally the performance of the hybrid filters were investigated in terms of the absorption of UVA and UVB radiations, with the UVA/UVB ratio, an efficiency parameter largely used in the description of solar filters, sunscreen and suncare products

Desenvolvimento e caracterização de sistemas líquido cristalinos para incorporação de p-metoxicinamato de octila

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

E-mail marketing in the context of cosmetics

This study investigates e-mail marketing using data from a survey of 839 Finnish customers of an international cosmetics brand. E-mail marketing involves the use of e-mail to send promotions and information to customers. In this context we address two research questions: (1) What e-mail advertising factors drive visits to a physical (i.e., bricks-and-mortar) company sales outlet? and, (2) Does e-mail advertising influence brand satisfaction? Our findings indicate that useful e-mails can influence customers to visit the store. Further, brand satisfaction is positively influenced if e-mails are interesting and also by the amount of e-mail received by customers.

Determination of sexual hormones in liquid cosmetics by polymer monolith microextraction coupled with high performance liquid chromatography

A method was presented for the determination of testosterone, methyltestosterone and progesterone in liquid cosmetics by coupling polymer monolith microextraction (PMME) to high performance liquid chromatography with UV detection. A poly (methacrylic acid-ethylene glycol dimethacrylate) monolithic capillary column was selected as the extraction medium, which showed high extraction capacity towards these compounds. To achieve optimum extraction performance, several parameters relating to PMME were investigated, including extraction flow rate and pH value, inorganic salt and organic phase concentration of the sample matrix. By simple dilution with phosphate solution and filtering, the sample solution then could be directly injected into the device for extraction. The limits of detection of testosterone, methyltestosterone and progesterone were calculated to be 2, 3, 2, 8 and 4.6 mu g/L. Good linearity was achieved in the range of 10 to 1000 mu g/L with a linear coefficient. r value above 0. 996. Excellent method reproducibility was found by intra- and inter-day precisions, yielding the relative standard deviations of < 7. 7 % and < 7. 5 %, respectively. Recovery for them in the real samples was between 83% and 119%.

Towards an understanding of bacterial metabolites prodigiosin and violacein and their potential for use in commercial sunscreens

Synopsis
Objectives

To exploit the microbial ecology of bacterial metabolite production and, specifically, to: (i) evaluate the potential use of the pigments prodigiosin and violacein as additives to commercial sunscreens for protection of human skin, and (ii) determine antioxidant and antimicrobial activities (against pathogenic bacteria) for these two pigments.

Methods
Prodigiosin and violacein were used to supplement extracts of Aloe vera leaf and Cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit which are known to have photoprotective activity, as well as some commercial sunscreen preparations. For each, sunscreen protection factors (SPFs) were determined spectrophotometrically. Assays for antimicrobial activity were carried out using 96-well plates to quantify growth inhibition of Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli.
Results
For the plant extracts, SPFs were increased by an order of magnitude (i.e. up to ~3.5) and those for the commercial sunscreens increased by 10–22% (for 4% w/w violacein) and 20–65% (for 4% w/w prodigiosin). The antioxidant activities of prodigiosin and violacein were approximately 30% and 20% those of ascorbic acid (a well-characterized, potent antioxidant). Violacein inhibited S. aureus (IC_{506.99 ± 0.146 μM) but not E. coli, whereas prodigiosin was effective against both of these bacteria (IC50 values were 0.68 ± 0.06 μM and 0.53 ± 0.03 μM, respectively).}

Conclusion
The bacterial pigments prodigiosin and violacein exhibited antioxidant and antimicrobial activities and were able to increase the SPF of commercial sunscreens as well as the extracts of the two plant species tested. These pigments have potential as ingredients for a new product range of and, indeed, represent a new paradigm for sunscreens that utilize substances of biological origin. We discussed the biotechnological potential of these bacterial metabolites for use in commercial sunscreens, and the need for studies of mammalian cells to determine safety.

Environmental oestrogens, cosmetics and breast cancer

The established role of oestrogen in the development and progression of breast cancer raises questions concerning a potential contribution from the many chemicals in the environment which can enter the human breast and which have oestrogenic activity. A range of organochlorine pesticides and polychlorinated bipheryls possess oestrogen-mimicking properties and have been measured in human breast adipose tissue and in human milk. These enter the breast from varied environmental contamination of food, water and air, and due to their lipophilic properties can accumulate in breast fat. However, it is emerging that the breast is also exposed to a range of oestrogenic chemicals applied as cosmetics to the underarm and breast area. These cosmetics are left on the skin in the appropriate area, allowing a more direct dermal absorption route for breast exposure to oestrogenic chemicals and allowing absorbed chemicals to escape systemic metabolism. This review considers evidence in support of a functional role for the combined interactions of cosmetic chemicals with environmental oestrogens, pharmacological oestrogens, phyto-oestrogens and physiological oestrogens in the rising incidence of breast cancer.

Endocrine disrupters and human health: Could oestrogenic chemicals in body care cosmetics adversely affect breast cancer incidence in women? A review of evidence and call for further research

In the decade that has elapsed since the suggestion that exposure of the foetal/developing male to environmental oestrogens could be the cause of subsequent reproductive and developmental effects in men, there has been little definitive research to provide conclusions to the hypothesis. Issues of exposure and low potency of environmental oestrogens may have reduced concerns. However, the hypothesis that chemicals applied in body care cosmetics (including moisturizers, creams, sprays or lotions applied to axilla or chest or breast areas) may be affecting breast cancer incidence in women presents a different case scenario, not least in the consideration of the exposure issues. The specific cosmetic type is not relevant but the chemical ingredients in the formulations and the application to the skin is important. The most common group of body care cosmetic formulation excipients, namely p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters or parabens, have been shown recently to be oestrogenic in vitro and in vivo and now have been detected in human breast tumour tissue, indicating absorption (route and causal associations have yet to be confirmed). The hypothesis for a link between oestrogenic ingredients in underarm and body care cosmetics and breast cancer is forwarded and reviewed here in terms of. data on exposure to body care cosmetics and parabens, including dermal absorption; paraben oestrogenicity; the role of oestrogen in breast cancer; detection of parabens in breast tumours; recent epidemiology studies of underarm cosmetics use and breast cancer; the toxicology database; the current regulatory status of parabens and regulatory toxicology data uncertainties. Notwithstanding the major public health issue of the causes of the rising incidence of breast cancer in women, this call for further research may provide the first evidence that environmental factors may be adversely affecting human health by endocrine disruption, because exposure to oestrogenic chemicals through application of body care products (unlike diffuse environmental chemical exposures) should be amenable to evaluation, quantification and control. The exposure issues are clear and the exposed population is large, and these factors should provide the necessary impetus to investigate this potential issue of public health. Copyright (C) 2004 John Wiley Sons, Ltd.

Underarm cosmetics and breast cancer

Although risk factors are known to include the loss of function of the susceptibility genes BRCA1/BRCA2 and lifetime exposure to oestrogen, the main causative agents in breast cancer remain unaccounted for. It has been suggested recently that underarm cosmetics might be a cause of breast cancer, because these cosmetics contain a variety of chemicals that are applied frequently to an area directly adjacent to the breast. The strongest supporting evidence comes from unexplained clinical observations showing a disproportionately high incidence of breast cancer in the upper outer quadrant of the breast, just the local area to which these cosmetics are applied. A biological basis for breast carcinogenesis could result from the ability of the various constituent chemicals to bind to DNA and to promote growth of the damaged cells. Multidisciplinary research is now needed to study the effect of long-term use of the constituent chemicals of underarm cosmetics, because if there proves to be any link between these cosmetics and breast cancer then there might be options for the prevention of breast cancer. Copyright D 2003 John Wiley Sons, Ltd.