Comparison and validation of physical wave parameterizations in spectral wave models

Recent developments in the physical parameterizations available in spectral wave models have already been validated, but there is little information on their relative performance especially with focus on the higher order spectral moments and wave partitions. This study concentrates on documenting their strengths and limitations using satellite measurements, buoy spectra, and a comparison between the different models. It is confirmed that all models perform well in terms of significant wave heights; however higher-order moments have larger errors. The partition wave quantities perform well in terms of direction and frequency but the magnitude and directional spread typically have larger discrepancies. The high-frequency tail is examined through the mean square slope using satellites and buoys. From this analysis it is clear that some models behave better than the others, suggesting their parameterizations match the physical processes reasonably well. However none of the models are entirely satisfactory, pointing to poorly constrained parameterizations or missing physical processes. The major space-time differences between the models are related to the swell field stressing the importance of describing its evolution. An example swell field confirms the wave heights can be notably different between model configurations while the directional distributions remain similar. It is clear that all models have difficulty in describing the directional spread. Therefore, knowledge of the source term directional distributions is paramount in improving the wave model physics in the future.

Stoneley wave modeling in heterogeneous porous media with viscous pore fluids

We implemented Biot-type porous wave equations in a pseudo-spectral numerical modeling algorithm for the simulation of Stoneley waves in porous media. Fourier and Chebyshev methods are used to compute the spatial derivatives along the horizontal and vertical directions, respectively. To prevent from overly short time steps due to the small grid spacing at the top and bottom of the model as a consequence of the Chebyshev operator, the mesh is stretched in the vertical direction. As a large benefit, the Chebyshev operator allows for an explicit treatment of interfaces. Boundary conditions can be implemented with a characteristics approach. The characteristic variables are evaluated at zero viscosity. We use this approach to model seismic wave propagation at the interface between a fluid and a porous medium. Each medium is represented by a different mesh and the two meshes are connected through the above described characteristics domain-decomposition method. We show an experiment for sealed pore boundary conditions, where we first compare the numerical solution to an analytical solution. We then show the influence of heterogeneity and viscosity of the pore fluid on the propagation of the Stoneley wave and surface waves in general.

Wave spectra assimilation in typhoon wave modeling for the East China Sea

The East China Sea is a hot area for typhoon waves to occur. A wave spectra assimilation model has been developed to predict the typhoon wave more accurately and operationally. This is the first time where wave data from Taiwan have been used to predict typhoon wave along the mainland China coast. The two-dimensional spectra observed in Taiwan northeast coast modify the wave field output by SWAN model through the technology of optimal interpolation (OI) scheme. The wind field correction is not involved as it contributes less than a quarter of the correction achieved by assimilation of waves. The initialization issue for assimilation is discussed. A linear evolution law for noise in the wave field is derived from the SWAN governing equations. A two-dimensional digital low-pass filter is used to obtain the initialized wave fields. The data assimilation model is optimized during the typhoon Sinlaku. During typhoons Krosa and Morakot, data assimilation significantly improves the low frequency wave energy and wave propagation direction in Taiwan coast. For the far-field region, the assimilation model shows an expected ability of improving typhoon wave forecast as well, as data assimilation enhances the low frequency wave energy. The proportion of positive assimilation indexes is over 81% for all the periods of comparison. The paper also finds that the impact of data assimilation on the far-field region depends on the state of the typhoon developing and the swell propagation direction.

A user's guide to a steady-state shallow-water directional spectral wave model /

Includes abstract.

Directional spectral wave generator basin response to monochromatic waves /

"This report is a product of the Laboratory Simulation of Spectral and Directional Spectral Waves Work Unit, Coastal Flooding and Storm Protection Program, Civil Works Research and Development, at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station's Coastal Engineering Research Center."--Preface.

Unidirectional spectral wave generation and analysis in wave basins :

"September 1988."

Directional spectral wave transformation in the nearshore region.

"November 1989."

Observations and modeling of the Marginal Ice Zone

Global climate change in recent decades has strongly influenced the Arctic generating pronounced warming accompanied by significant reduction of sea ice in seasonally ice-covered seas and a dramatic increase of open water regions exposed to wind [Stephenson et al., 2011]. By strongly scattering the wave energy, thick multiyear ice prevents swell from penetrating deeply into the Arctic pack ice. However, with the recent changes affecting Arctic sea ice, waves gain more energy from the extended fetch and can therefore penetrate further into the pack ice. Arctic sea ice also appears weaker during melt season, extending the transition zone between thick multi-year ice and the open ocean. This region is called the Marginal Ice Zone (MIZ). In the Arctic, the MIZ is mainly encountered in the marginal seas, such as the Nordic Seas, the Barents Sea, the Beaufort Sea and the Labrador Sea. Formed by numerous blocks of sea ice of various diameters (floes) the MIZ, under certain conditions, allows maritime transportation stimulating dreams of industrial and touristic exploitation of these regions and possibly allowing, in the next future, a maritime connection between the Atlantic and the Pacific. With the increasing human presence in the Arctic, waves pose security and safety issues. As marginal seas are targeted for oil and gas exploitation, understanding and predicting ocean waves and their effects on sea ice become crucial for structure design and for real time safety of operations. The juxtaposition of waves and sea ice represents a risk for personnel and equipment deployed on ice, and may complicate critical operations such as platform evacuations. The risk is difficult to evaluate because there are no long-term observations of waves in ice, swell events are difficult to predict from local conditions, ice breakup can occur on very short time-scales and wave-ice interactions are beyond the scope of current forecasting models [Liu and Mollo-Christensen, 1988,Marko, 2003]. In this thesis, a newly developed Waves in Ice Model (WIM) [Williams et al., 2013a,Williams et al., 2013b] and its related Ocean and Sea Ice model (OSIM) will be used to study the MIZ and the improvements of wave modeling in ice infested waters. The following work has been conducted in collaboration with the Nansen Environmental and Remote Sensing Center and within the SWARP project which aims to extend operational services supporting human activity in the Arctic by including forecast of waves in ice-covered seas, forecast of sea-ice in the presence of waves and remote sensing of both waves and sea ice conditions. The WIM will be included in the downstream forecasting services provided by Copernicus marine environment monitoring service.

Optical wave turbulence

We review recent progress in optical wave turbulence with a specific focus on the fast growing field of fibre lasers. Weak irregular nonlinear interactions between a large number of resonator modes are responsible for practically important characteristics of fibre lasers such as spectral broadening of radiation. Wave turbulence is a fundamental nonlinear phenomenon which occurs in a variety of nonlinear wave-bearing physical systems. The experimental impediments and the computationally intensive nature of simulating of hydrodynamic or plasma wave turbulence often make it rather challenging to collect a significant number of statistical data The study of turbulent wave behaviour in optical devices offers quite a unique opportunity to collect an enormous amount of data on statistical properties of wave turbulence using high-speed, high precision optical measurements during a relatively short period of time. We present recent theoretical, numerical and experimental results on optical wave turbulence in fibre lasers ranging from weak to strong developed turbulence for different signs of fibre dispersion. Furthermore, we report on our studies of spectral wave condensate in fibre lasers that make interdisciplinary links with a number of other research fields.

Optical wave turbulence

We review recent progress in optical wave turbulence with a specific focus on the fast growing field of fibre lasers. Weak irregular nonlinear interactions between a large number of resonator modes are responsible for practically important characteristics of fibre lasers such as spectral broadening of radiation. Wave turbulence is a fundamental nonlinear phenomenon which occurs in a variety of nonlinear wave-bearing physical systems. The experimental impediments and the computationally intensive nature of simulating of hydrodynamic or plasma wave turbulence often make it rather challenging to collect a significant number of statistical data The study of turbulent wave behaviour in optical devices offers quite a unique opportunity to collect an enormous amount of data on statistical properties of wave turbulence using high-speed, high precision optical measurements during a relatively short period of time. We present recent theoretical, numerical and experimental results on optical wave turbulence in fibre lasers ranging from weak to strong developed turbulence for different signs of fibre dispersion. Furthermore, we report on our studies of spectral wave condensate in fibre lasers that make interdisciplinary links with a number of other research fields.

A snapshot of suspended sediment and fluid mud occurrence in a mixed-energy embayment, Tijucas Bay, Brazil

Along the southern Brazilian coast, Tijucas Bay is known for its unique muddy tidal flats associated with chenier plains. Previous field observations pointed to very high suspended sediment concentrations (SSCs) in the inner parts of the bay, and in the estuary of the Tijucas River, suggesting the presence of fluid mud. In this study, the occurrences of suspended sediments and fluid mud were examined during a larger-scale, high-resolution 2-day field campaign on 1-2 May 2007, encompassing survey lines spanning nearly 80 km, 75 water sampling stations for near-bottom density estimates, and ten sediment sampling stations. Wave refraction modeling provided qualitative wave energy estimates as a function of different incidence directions. The results show that SSC increases toward the inner bay near the water surface, but seaward near the bottom. This suggests that suspended sediment is supplied by the local rivers, in particular the Tijucas. Near-surface SSCs were of the order of 50 mg l(-1) close to the shore, but exceeded 100 mg l(-1) near the bottom in the deeper parts of the bay. Fluid mud thickness and location given by densimetry and echo-sounding agreed in some places, although being mostly discordant. The best agreement was observed where wave energy was high during the campaign. The discrepancy between the two methods may be an indication for the existence of fluid mud, which is recorded by one method but not the other. Agreement is considered to be an indication of fluidization, whereas disagreement indicates more consolidation. Wave modeling suggests that waves from the ENE and SE are the most effective in supplying energy to the inner bay, which may induce the liquefaction of mud deposits to form fluid mud. Nearshore mud resuspension and weak horizontal currents result in sediment-laden offshore flow, which explains the higher SSCs measured in the deeper parts of the bay, besides providing a mechanism for fine-sediment export to the inner shelf.

Tracking the attenuation and nonbreaking dissipation of swells using altimeters

A method for systematically tracking swells across oceanic basins is developed by taking advantage of high-quality data from space-borne altimeters and wave model output. The evolution of swells is observed over large distances based on 202 swell events with periods ranging from 12 to 18 s. An empirical attenuation rate of swell energy of about 4 × 10−7 m−1 is estimated using these observations, and the nonbreaking energy dissipation rates of swells far away from their generating areas are also estimated using a point source model. The resulting acceptance range of nonbreaking dissipation rates is −2.5 to 5.0 × 10−7 m−1, which corresponds to a dissipation e-folding scales of at least 2000 km for steep swells, to almost infinite for small-amplitude swells. These resulting rates are consistent with previous studies using in-situ and synthetic aperture radar (SAR) observations. The frequency dispersion and angular spreading effects during swell propagation are discussed by comparing the results with other studies, demonstrating that they are the two dominant processes for swell height attenuation, especially in the near field. The resulting dissipation rates from these observations can be used as a reference for ocean engineering and wave modeling, and for related studies such as air-sea and wind-wave-turbulence interactions.

Ocean waves across the Arctic: attenuation due to dissipation dominates over scattering for periods longer than 19 s

The poorly understood attenuation of surface waves in sea ice is generally attributed to the combination of scattering and dissipation. Scattering and dissipation have very different effects on the directional and temporal distribution of wave energy, making it possible to better understand their relative importance by analysis of swell directional spreading and arrival times. Here we compare results of a spectral wave model – using adjustable scattering and dissipation attenuation formulations – with wave measurements far inside the ice pack. In this case, scattering plays a negligible role in the attenuation of long swells. Specifically, scattering-dominated attenuation would produce directional wave spectra much broader than the ones recorded, and swell events arriving later and lasting much longer than observed. Details of the dissipation process remain uncertain. Average dissipation rates are consistent with creep effects but are 12 times those expected for a laminar boundary layer under a smooth solid ice plate.

A pseudo-spectral method for the simulation of poro-elastic seismic wave propagation in 2D polar coordinates using domain decomposition

We present a novel numerical approach for the comprehensive, flexible, and accurate simulation of poro-elastic wave propagation in 2D polar coordinates. An important application of this method and its extensions will be the modeling of complex seismic wave phenomena in fluid-filled boreholes, which represents a major, and as of yet largely unresolved, computational problem in exploration geophysics. In view of this, we consider a numerical mesh, which can be arbitrarily heterogeneous, consisting of two or more concentric rings representing the fluid in the center and the surrounding porous medium. The spatial discretization is based on a Chebyshev expansion in the radial direction and a Fourier expansion in the azimuthal direction and a Runge-Kutta integration scheme for the time evolution. A domain decomposition method is used to match the fluid-solid boundary conditions based on the method of characteristics. This multi-domain approach allows for significant reductions of the number of grid points in the azimuthal direction for the inner grid domain and thus for corresponding increases of the time step and enhancements of computational efficiency. The viability and accuracy of the proposed method has been rigorously tested and verified through comparisons with analytical solutions as well as with the results obtained with a corresponding, previously published, and independently bench-marked solution for 2D Cartesian coordinates. Finally, the proposed numerical solution also satisfies the reciprocity theorem, which indicates that the inherent singularity associated with the origin of the polar coordinate system is adequately handled.