Wave setup on a sloping beach /

"September 1977."

A new analytical solution for water table fluctuations in coastal aquifers with sloping beaches

The Boussinesq equation appears as the zeroth-order term in the shallow water flow expansion of the non-linear equation describing the flow of fluid in an unconfined aquifer. One-dimensional models based on the Boussinesq equation have been used to analyse tide-induced water table fluctuations in coastal aquifers. Previous analytical solutions for a sloping beach are based on the perturbation parameter, epsilon(N) = alphaepsilon cot beta (in which beta is the beach slope, alpha is the amplitude parameter and epsilon is the shallow water parameter) and are limited to tan(-1) (alphaepsilon) much less than beta less than or equal to pi/2. In this paper, a new higher-order solution to the non-linear boundary value problem is derived. The results demonstrate the significant influence of the higher-order components and beach slope on the water table fluctuations. The relative difference between the linear solution and the present solution increases as 6 and a increase, and reaches 7% of the linear solution. (C) 2003 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Tidal effects on sea water intrusion in unconfined aquifers

A variable-density groundwater model is used to analyse the effects of tidal fluctuations on sea-water intrusion in an unconfined aquifer. It is shown that the tidal activity forces the sea-water to intrude further inland and it also creates a thicker interface than would occur without tidal effects. Moreover, the configuration of the interface is radically changed when the tidal fluctuations are included. This is because of the dramatic changes in the flow pattern and velocity of the groundwater near the shoreline. For aquifer depths much larger than tidal amplitudes, the tidal fluctuation does not have much effect on how far the sea-water intrudes into the aquifer; nevertheless, a significant change in the configuration of concentration contours because of the effect of tidal fluctuations is observed. This change is more noticeable at the top of the aquifer, near the water table, than at the bottom of the aquifer, and is caused by the infiltration of salt water into the top of the aquifer at higher tidal levels. A flatter beach slope, therefore, intensifies this phenomenon. The interface configurations do not change noticeably over the course of a tidal cycle. Neglecting tidal fluctuation effects results in an inaccurate evaluation of the water table elevation at the land end of the aquifer, although no distinguishable difference is seen between the water tables near the shoreline. Where the landward boundary condition is a constant head, the effects of tidal fluctuations on sea-water intrusion are more pronounced than for cases where the landward boundary condition is a specified flux. Also it is shown that the effects of tidal fluctuations are more significant for a sloping beach than for a vertical shoreline and the salt water intrudes further inland for the sloping case. (C) 1999 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Tidal influence on behaviour of a coastal aquifer adjacent to a low-relief estuary

The tidal influence on groundwater hydrodynamics, salt-water intrusion and submarine groundwater discharge from coastal/estuarine aquifers is poorly quantified for systems with a mildly sloping beach, in contrast to the case where a vertical beach face is assumed. We investigated the effect of beach slope for a coastal aquifer adjacent to a low-relief estuary, where industrial waste was emplaced over the aquifer. The waste was suspected to discharge leachate towards the estuary. Field observations at various locations showed that tidally induced groundwater head fluctuations were skewed temporally. Frequency analysis suggested that the fluctuation amplitudes decreased exponentially and the phase-tags increased Linearly for the primary tidal signals as they propagated inland. Salinisation zones were observed in the bottom part of the estuary and near the beach surface. Flow and transport processes in a cross-section perpendicular to the estuary were simulated using SEAWAT-2000, which is capable of depicting density-dependent flow and multi-species transport. The simulations showed that the modelled water table fluctuations were in good agreement with the monitored data. Further simulations were conducted to gain insight into the effects of beach slope. In particular the limiting case of a vertical beach face was considered. The simulations showed that density difference and tidal forcing drive a more complex hydrodynamic pattern for the mildly sloping beach than the vertical beach, as well as a profound asymmetry in tidally induced water table fluctuations and enhanced salt-water intrusion. The simulation results also indicated that contaminant transport from the aquifer to the estuary was affected by the tide, where for the mildly sloping beach, the tide tended to intensify the vertical mass exchange in the vicinity of the shorelines, (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

New approximation for free surface flow of groundwater: capillarity correction

An existing capillarity correction for free surface groundwater flow as modelled by the Boussinesq equation is re-investigated. Existing solutions, based on the shallow flow expansion, have considered only the zeroth-order approximation. Here, a second-order capillarity correction to tide-induced watertable fluctuations in a coastal aquifer adjacent to a sloping beach is derived. A new definition of the capillarity correction is proposed for small capillary fringes, and a simplified solution is derived. Comparisons of the two models show that the simplified model can be used in most cases. The significant effects of higher-order capillarity corrections on tidal fluctuations in a sloping beach are also demonstrated. (c) 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Evaluación biológica poblacional de macha (Mesodesma donacium, Lamarck 1818) en la provincia de Islay, Arequipa. Febrero 2015

La evaluación se realizó entre el 20 y 26 de febrero 2015, el área de distribución de la macha comprendió la playa entre punta Corio y Sombrero Chico en la provincia de Islay; no se registró entre el Boquerón y La Ensenada. La mayor concentración se observó entre Las Cuevas y El Tablón (área de repoblamiento de Islay). La densidad relativa de las estaciones/transectos varió entre 0 y 20,39 ejem/m2. El área efectiva de distribución se calculó en 1´413.514 m2, se estimó abundancia en 7´722.393 ejemplares y biomasa total 147,58 t. Se analizó biométricamente 2.612 ejemplares, la talla varió entre 26 y 90 mm de longitud valvar (LV), con moda principal en 62 mm y secundaria en 76 mm, la longitud promedio fue 59,17 mm, el 89,43% estuvo debajo de la Talla Mínima de Captura (TCM= 70 mm). Los perfiles medios de playa fueron de pendiente suave que varió entre 1,00° y 1,72°; en el Sector sur (Punta de Bombón) se observó playas intermedias acercándose a los límites de playas disipativas (Ω entre 3,14 y 5,92), en el Sector norte (Dean Valdivia - Mejía) se observaron playas intermedias - disipativas (Ω entre 4,53 y 5,22). La temperatura superficial del mar varió entre 16,4 y 21,0 °C, promedio 18,2±0,02 °C. En el análisis del plancton, entre El Molle y Cardones y El Conto y Mejía, se observó larvas D y umbonadas con características similares a Mesodesma donacium.

Spring-neap tide-induced beach water table fluctuations in a sloping coastal aquifer

Predictions of water table fluctuations in coastal aquifers are needed for numerous coastal and water resources engineering problems. Most previous investigations have been based on the Boussinesq equation for the case of a vertical beach. In this note an analytical solution based on shallow water expansion for the spring- neap tide- induced water table fluctuations in a coastal aquifer is presented. Unlike most previous investigations, multitidal signals are considered with a sloping coastal aquifer. The new solution is verified by comparing with field observations from Ardeer, Scotland. On the basis of the analytical approximation the influences of higher- order components on water table elevation are examined first. Then, a parametric study has been performed to investigate the effects of the amplitude ratio (lambda), frequency ratio (omega), and phases (delta(1) and delta(2)) on the tide- induced water table fluctuations in a sloping sandy beach.

Two-dimensional approximation for tide-induced watertable fluctuations in a sloping sandy beach

The prediction of watertable fluctuations in a coastal aquifer is important for coastal management. However, most previous approaches have based on the one-dimensional Boussinesq equation, neglecting variations in the coastline and beach slope. In this paper, a closed-form analytical solution for a two-dimensional unconfined coastal aquifer bounded by a rhythmic coastline is derived. In the new model, the effect of beach slope is also included, a feature that has not been considered in previous two-dimensional approximations. Three small parameters, the shallow water parameter (epsilon), the amplitude parameter (a) and coastline parameter (beta) are used in the perturbation approximation. The numerical results demonstrate the significant influence of both the coastline shape and beach slopes on tide-driven coastal groundwater fluctuations. (c) 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Guiana dolphins (Sotalia guianensis) displaying beach hunting behavior in the Cananéia Estuary, Brazil: social context and conservation issues

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Application of a coupled ground-surface water flow model to simulate periodic groundwater flow influenced by a sloping boundary, capillarity and vertical flows

Theoretical developments as well as field and laboratory data have shown the influence of the capillary fringe on water table fluctuations to increase with the fluctuation frequency. The numerical solution of a full, partially saturated flow equation can be computationally expensive. In this paper, the influence of the capillary fringe on water table fluctuations is simplified through its parameterisation into the storage coefficient of a fully-saturated groundwater flow model using the complex effective porosity concept [Nielsen, P., Perrochet, P., 2000. Water table dynamics under capillary fringes: experiments and modelling. Advances in Water Resources 23 (1), 503-515; Nielsen, P., Perrochet, P., 2000. ERRATA: water table dynamics under capillary fringes: experiments and modelling (Advances in Water Resources 23 (2000) 503-515). Advances in Water Resources 23, 907-908]. The model is applied to sand flume observations of periodic water table fluctuations induced by simple harmonic forcing across a sloping boundary, analogous to many beach groundwater systems. While not providing information on the moisture distribution within the aquifer, this approach can reasonably predict the water table fluctuations in response to periodic forcing across a sloping boundary. Furthermore, he coupled ground-surface water model accurately predicts the extent of the seepage face formed at the sloping boundary. (C) 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Effects of temperature and salinity on the survival rates of coxicerberus ramosae (Albuquerque, 1978), an interstitial isopod of a Sandy Beach on the coast of Brazil

The tolerance to the combined effects of temperature and salinity was investigated in the interstitial isopod Coxicerberus ramosae (Albuquerque, 1978), a species of intertidal zone of sandy beaches in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The animals were collected on Praia Vermelha Beach. The experiments lasted 24 h and nine salinities and seven temperatures were used for a total of 63 combinations. Thirty animals were tested in each combination. The species showed high survival in most of the combinations. The temperature of 35 ºC was lethal and at 5 ºC, the animals tolerated only a narrow range of salinities. The statistical analyses showed that the effects of temperature and salinity were significant on the survival, which confirmed the euryhalinity and eurythermy of this species.

Atherinella blackburni (Schultz, 1949) at Itamambuca Beach, Ubatuba, SP: ecological characterization and distribution on the Brazilian coast (Teleostei: Atheriniformes: Atherinopsidae)

Atherinella blackburni is a silverside species whose occurrence on the Brazilian coast was not properly registered until recently. So far, records of its distribution along the Brazilian shore were limited to Itaparica Island, Bahia State, and Porto Inhaúma, Rio de Janeiro State. In a recent survey of the ichthyofauna of Itamambuca Beach, Ubatuba, São Paulo State, 100 specimens of this species were collected, yielding a considerable source of information regarding its ecology and a new southern limit of its distribution. A detailed survey of an ichthyological collection revealed lots of this species from regions of the Brazilian Northeast, resulting in a northward expansion of the occurrence of A. blackburni in Brazilian waters. Besides the populations found on the Brazilian coast, the species also occurs discontinuously in the Atlantic coasts of Costa Rica, Panama and Venezuela. Meristic and morphometric analysis showed overlapped values between Brazilian populations and the ones closer to the Caribbean. An ecological study of A. blackburni at Itamambuca Beach revealed that it is a predominantly diurnal species with preference for warm and salty waters, often occurring in sandy-bottom environments. It was more abundant in Summer and Winter, when individuals with smaller values of length and weight also occurred.

Ecological aspects of the surf-zone ichthyofauna of Itamambuca Beach, Ubatuba, SP

Sandy beaches are among the most extensive environments in Brazil and are generally threatened by disorderly urban growth due to their location along the coast, where human populations tend to concentrate. This is especially true in southeastern Brazil, where the largest urban areas are located. Thus, better knowledge regarding these natural resources is of considerable importance. The surf zone of sandy beaches is inhabited by a number of fish species, including juveniles seeking both food and shelter from predators. An ecological survey was conducted in the surf zone of Itamambuca beach in the city of Ubatuba, São Paulo State, Brazil, in order to evaluate the composition, structure and dynamics of the fish fauna using community descriptors. Diurnal and nocturnal samples were taken with a beach seine at five oceanographic stations over a 12-month period. Water temperature and salinity were also recorded. A total of 2,147 individuals representing 34 species and 18 families were sampled. The main variation in fish fauna was detected on the diel level, followed by a spatial repartition possibly related to salinity. Seasonal variation was also observed. The five most important species in the overall context were Atherinella brasiliensis, Eucinostomus melanopterus, Mugil sp., Trachinotus goodei and Atherinella blackburni.

Headland-bay beach planform stability of Santa Catarina State and of the Northern Coast of São Paulo State

This paper presents the results of the planform stability classification for the headland-bay beaches of the State of Santa Catarina and of the Northern Coast of São Paulo, based on the application of the Parabolic Bay-Shape Equation (PBSE) to aerial images of the beaches, using the software MEPBAY®. For this purpose, georeferenced mosaics of the QuickBird2® satellite imagery (for the State of Santa Catarina) and vertical aerial photographs (for the northern coast of São Paulo State) were used. Headland-bay beach planform stability can be classified as: (1) in static equilibrium, (2) in dynamic equilibrium, (3) unstable or (4) in a state of natural beach reshaping. Static equilibrium beaches are the most frequent along the coast of the State of Santa Catarina and the Northern Shore of São Paulo, notably along the most rugged sectors of the coast and those with experiencing lower fluvial discharge. By comparison, dynamic equilibrium beaches occur primarily on the less rugged sectors of the coast and along regions with higher fluvial discharge. Beaches in a state of natural beach reshaping have only been found in SC, associated with stabilized estuarine inlets or port breakwaters. However, it is not possible to classify any of these beaches as unstable because only one set of images was used. No clear relation was observed between a beach's planform stability and other classification factors, such as morphodynamics or orientation.

High-energy events and short-term changes in superficial beach sediments

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)