A study of the photodegradation of protein fibres and fabrics

The photodegradation of protein fibres such as wool and silk has become a serious issue for both the fibre research community and the textile industry. This PhD project has used several novel techniques to tackle this challenging research topic. The results provide significant new insights into the mechanism of photodegradation.

In-situ synthesis of gold nanoparticles for multifunctionalization of silk fabrics

A simple in-situ synthesis route for gold nanoparticles (NPs) was developed to realize multifunctions for silk fabrics. The gold NPs were prepared in a heated solution containing white silk fabric samples. The silk fabrics were colored red and brown by the gold NPs because of their localized surface plasmon resonance (LSPR) property. Gold nanospheres on silk were obtained at a low gold content, and gold nanoplates were synthesized as the gold content increased. The silk fabrics treated with gold NPs showed good light fastness. Moreover, the gold NPs endowed silk fabrics with strong antibacterial activity, excellent UV protection property and enhanced thermal conductivity. © 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Dyeing artificial silk fabrics /

Mode of access: Internet.

Sunlight-induced coloration of silk

Silk fabrics were colored by gold nanoparticles (NPs) that were in situ synthesized through the induction of sunlight. Owing to the localized surface plasmon resonance (LSPR) of gold NPs, the treated silk fabrics presented vivid colors. The photo-induced synthesis of gold NPs was also realized on wet silk through adsorbing gold ions out of solution, which provides a water-saving coloration method for textiles. Besides, the patterning of silk was feasible using this simple sunlight-induced coloration approach. The key factors of coloration including gold ion concentration, pH value, and irradiation time were investigated. Moreover, it was demonstrated that either ultraviolet (UV) light or visible light could induce the generation of gold NPs on silk fabrics. The silk fabrics with gold NPs exhibited high light resistance including great UV-blocking property and excellent fastness to sunlight.

Surface enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) fabrics for trace analysis

Flexible SERS active substrates were prepared by modification of silk fabrics with gold nanoparticles. Gold nanoparticles were in-situ synthesized after heating the silk fabrics immersed in gold ion solution. Localized surface plasmon resonance (LSPR) properties of the treated silk fabrics varied as the concentration of gold ions changed, in relation to the morphologies of gold nanoparticles on silk. In addition, X-ray diffraction (XRD) was used to observe the structure of the gold nanoparticle treated silk fabrics. The SERS enhancement effect of the silk fabrics treated with gold nanoparticles was evaluated by collecting Raman signals of different concentrations of p-aminothiophenol (PATP), 4-mercaptopyridine (4-MPy) and crystal violet (CV) solutions. The results demonstrate that the silk fabrics corresponding to 0.3 and 0.4 mM of gold ions possess high SERS activity compared to the other treated fabrics. It is suggested that both the gold content and morphologies of gold nanoparticles dominate the SERS effect of the treated silk fabrics.

Recent research on natural fibres and textiles

This paper provides an overview of recent research on a range of natural fibres and textiles. The focus is on work carried out at Deakin University’s Centre for Material and Fibre Innovation, which is a multidisciplinary research centre with over 100 researchers. The fibres include hemp, wool, silk, and alpaca fibres. Research on yarns, fabrics, and fine powders made from wool and silk fibres are briefly discussed also.

The within-fibre diameter variation of wool has been examined systematically, which highlights the importance of this hard-to-measure fibre attribute. A relationship between hemp fibre fineness and residual gum content has been established, which provides a rapid means of assessing the residual gum content in the degummed hemp fibres. Silk and wool fibres have been converted into ultrafine powders for advanced applications. The Resistance to Compression (RtC) behaviour of wool and alpaca fibres has been closely examined, which challenges the belief that RtC is a good indicator of fibre softness. Ways of reducing the hairiness of natural fibre yarns, predicting the pilling propensity of wool knits, and functionalising fabrics for superhydrophobicity and photochromic or colour changing effects are discussed.

昭和十四年版輸出絹物統計要覧 付:各国絹物輸出入統計 各国絹物輸入関税率 ､The annual statistical report of the export silk & rayon fabrics

Mode of access: Internet.

Transglutaminase mediated grafting of silk proteins onto wool fabrics leading to improved physical and mechanical properties

Transglutaminases have the ability to incorporate primary amines and to graft peptides (containing glutamine or lysine residues) into proteins. These properties enable transglutaminases to be used in the grafting of a range of compounds including peptides and/or proteins onto wool fibres, altering their functionality. In this paper we investigated the transglutaminase mediated grafting of silk proteins into wool and its effect on wool properties. A commercial hydrolysed silk preparation was compared with silk sericin. The silk sericin protein was labelled with a fluorescent probe which was used to demonstrate the efficiency of the TGase grafting of such proteins into wool fibres. The TGase mediated grafting of these proteins led to a significant effect on the properties of wool yarn and fabric, resulting in increased bursting strength, as well as reduced levels of felting shrinkage and improved fabric softness. Also observed was an accumulation of deposits on the surface of the treated wool fibres when monitored by SEM and alterations in the thermal behaviour of the modified fibres, in particular for mTGase/sericin treated fibres which, with the confocal studies, corroborate the physical changes observed on the treated wool fabric. © 2006 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Thermobonded Fabrics

In 2009 Avella created a series of innovative fabrics for the Yves St Laurent (YSL) collection, deploying techniques from vehicle engineering to generate new materials for a range of garments. Studying the bonding of layers of material in ceramic plate thermobonding technology, Avella conducted a series of experiments with textiles such as flannel, silk and synthetics, and material such as leather, layered with polyamide foam and textile substrate to create new, textured and insulating fabrics with beautiful surfaces and interesting forms. The lightweight properties of the foam enabled the maximum insulation/weight ratio, and the panel moulding technology brought new forms of draping prêt-a-porter fashion design. Exclusive to YSL, this technique was patented and then shown at the Premiere Vision textiles trade fair in 2010. Much documented in specialist journals this innovation also breached the trade-culture barrier and was reported and documented in mainstream newspapers (New York Herald Tribune). Avella’s background in textile workshop studio experimentation at the RCA brought to YSL textiles research for manufacture, the innovative collaboration between fashion couture and engineering laboratory experiments from vehicle design.

The silk road project : dance and embodiment in the age of motion capture

The Silk Road Project was a practice-based research project investigating the potential of motion capture technology to inform perceptions of embodiment in dance performance. The project created a multi-disciplinary collaborative performance event using dance performance and real-time motion capture at Deakin University’s Deakin Motion Lab. Several new technological advances in producing real-time motion capture performance were produced, along with a performance event that examined the aesthetic interplay between a dancer’s movement and the precise mappings of its trajectories created by motion capture and real-time motion graphic visualisations.

The Silk Road project

The Silk Road Project was a practice-based research project investigating the potential of motion capture technology to inform perceptions of embodiment in dance performance. The project created a multi-disciplinary collaborative performance event using dance performance and real-time motion capture at Deakin University’s Deakin Motion Lab. Performances at Deakin University, December 2007.