Nonlinear dynamics of short traveling capillary-gravity waves

We establish a Green-Nagdhi model equation for capillary-gravity waves in (2+1) dimensions. Through the derivation of an asymptotic equation governing short-wave dynamics, we show that this system possesses (1 + 1) traveling-wave solutions for almost all the values of the Bond number θ (the special case θ=1/3 is not studied). These waves become singular when their amplitude is larger than a threshold value, related to the velocity of the wave. The limit angle at the crest is then calculated. The stability of a wave train is also studied via a Benjamin-Feir modulational analysis. ©2005 The American Physical Society.

Ocean bottom pressure records from the Cascadia array and short surface gravity waves

The ocean bottom pressure records from eight stations of the Cascadia array are used to investigate the properties of short surface gravity waves with frequencies ranging from 0.2 to 5 Hz. It is found that the pressure spectrum at all sites is a well-defined function of the wind speed U10 and frequency f, with only a minor shift of a few dB from one site to another that can be attributed to variations in bottom properties. This observation can be combined with the theoretical prediction that the ocean bottom pressure spectrum is proportional to the surface gravity wave spectrum E(f) squared, times the overlap integral I(f) which is given by the directional wave spectrum at each frequency. This combination, using E(f) estimated from modeled spectra or parametric spectra, yields an overlap integral I(f) that is a function of the local wave age inline image. This function is maximum for f∕fPM = 8 and decreases by 10 dB for f∕fPM = 2 and f∕fPM = 30. This shape of I(f) can be interpreted as a maximum width of the directional wave spectrum at f∕fPM = 8, possibly equivalent to an isotropic directional spectrum, and a narrower directional distribution toward both the dominant low frequencies and the higher capillary-gravity wave frequencies.

Generation of inertia-gravity waves in the rotating thermal annulus by a localised boundary layer instability

Waves with periods shorter than the inertial period exist in the atmosphere (as inertia-gravity waves) and in the oceans (as Poincaré and internal gravity waves). Such waves owe their origin to various mechanisms, but of particular interest are those arising either from local secondary instabilities or spontaneous emission due to loss of balance. These phenomena have been studied in the laboratory, both in the mechanically-forced and the thermally-forced rotating annulus. Their generation mechanisms, especially in the latter system, have not yet been fully understood, however. Here we examine short period waves in a numerical model of the rotating thermal annulus, and show how the results are consistent with those from earlier laboratory experiments. We then show how these waves are consistent with being inertia-gravity waves generated by a localised instability within the thermal boundary layer, the location of which is determined by regions of strong shear and downwelling at certain points within a large-scale baroclinic wave flow. The resulting instability launches small-scale inertia-gravity waves into the geostrophic interior of the flow. Their behaviour is captured in fully nonlinear numerical simulations in a finite-difference, 3D Boussinesq Navier-Stokes model. Such a mechanism has many similarities with those responsible for launching small- and meso-scale inertia-gravity waves in the atmosphere from fronts and local convection.

Higher-order spectral analysis of nonlinear ocean surface gravity waves

Higher-order spectral analysis is used to detect the presence of secondary and tertiary forced waves associated with the nonlinearity of energetic swell observed in 8- and 13-m water depths. Higher-order spectral analysis techniques are first described and then applied to the field data, followed by a summary of the results.

Wake angle for surface gravity waves on a finite depth fluid

Linear water wave theory suggests that wave patterns caused by a steadily moving disturbance are contained within a wedge whose half-angle depends on the depth-based Froude number $F_H$. For the problem of flow past an axisymmetric pressure distribution in a finite-depth channel, we report on the apparent angle of the wake, which is the angle of maximum peaks. For moderately deep channels, the dependence of the apparent wake angle on the Froude number is very different to the wedge angle, and varies smoothly as $F_H$ passes through the critical value $F_H=1$. For shallow water, the two angles tend to follow each other more closely, which leads to very large apparent wake angles for certain regimes.

Effect of density discontinuity on Alfvén internal gravity waves

The stability characteristics of Alfvén Internal gravity waves for an inviscid, nondissipative, Boussinesq fluid undergoing shear in the presence of a density discontinuity with and without a rigid boundary is studied.

Quasi-simple wave solutions for acoustic gravity waves

The special class of quasi-simple wave solutions is studied for the system of partial differential equations governing inviscid acoustic gravity waves. It is shown that these traveling wave solutions do not admit shocks. Periodic solutions are found to exist when there is no propagation in the vertical direction. The solutions for some particular cases are depicted graphically. Physics of Fluids is copyrighted by The American Institute of Physics.

Capillary-gravity waves against a corrugated vertical cliff

An analysis involving a transformation of the velocity potential and a Fourier Sine Transform technique is described to study the effect of surface tension on incoming surface waves against a vertical cliff with a periodic wall perturbation. Known results are recovered as particular cases of the general problem considered. An analytical expression is derived for the surface elevation, at far distances from the shore-line, by using Watson's lemma and a representative table of numerical values of the coefficients of the resulting asymptotic expansion is also presented.

SODAR observations of inertia- gravity waves in the atmospheric boundary layer during the passage of tropical cyclone

This study reports characteristics of inertia-gravity waves (IGWs) in the atmospheric boundary layer during the passage of Tropical Cylone-03B, using the Doppler Sound Detection and Ranging (SODAR) observations at the Indian tropical station of Gadanki (13.45 degrees N, 79.2 degrees E; near the east coast of India). Wavelet analysis of horizontal winds indicates significant wave motion (60h) near the characteristic inertial period. The hodograph analysis of the filtered winds shows an anti-cyclonic turning of horizontal wind with height and time, indicating the presence of IGW. This study finds important implications in boundary layer dynamics during the passage of tropical cyclones.

On the behavior of gravity-waves on porous slopes

displacement thickness is lower than in the pure-gas case alone. The results indicate

Short-surface waves radiated by a partially-immersed 3-dimensional oscillating body

The short-surface waves generated by a 3-D arbitrarily oscillating body floating onwater are discussed. In the far-field off the body, the phase and the amplitude functions ofthe radiated waves are determined by the ray method. An undetermined constant is includ-ed in the amplitude function. From the result of Ref. [1], the near-field boundary layersolution near the body waterline is obtained. The amplitude of this solution depends on thewhole wall shape of the body and the slope at the body waterline on the cross-sections per-pendicular to the waterline. By matching the far-field solution with the near-field bound-ary layer solution, the undetermined constant in the amplitude function of the far-fieldradiated waves is determined. For the special case of a half-submerged sphere which per-forms vertical oscillating motion, the result obtained in this paper is in agreement withthat of Ref. [ 2 ].

Two-dimensional short surface-waves of an oscillating cylinder with arbitrary shape of cross-section

The 2-D short surface waves produced by a partially submerged cylinder which performsarbitrary oscillating motion are discussed. The uniformly valid solution which is applicableto all kinds of cylinder wall cases at waterline point is obtained. It is pointed out that thesolution obtained by Holford[J] for the vertical oscillating motion of a cylinder is incomplete.The reason why his solution cannot go over to that for the case of vertical cylinder wall atwaterline point is also pointed out.

Steady capillary-gravity waves on deep water

The properties of capillary-gravity waves of permanent form on deep water are studied. Two different formulations to the problem are given. The theory of simple bifurcation is reviewed. For small amplitude waves a formal perturbation series is used. The Wilton ripple phenomenon is reexamined and shown to be associated with a bifurcation in which a wave of permanent form can double its period. It is shown further that Wilton's ripples are a special case of a more general phenomenon in which bifurcation into subharmonics and factorial higher harmonics can occur. Numerical procedures for the calculation of waves of finite amplitude are developed. Bifurcation and limit lines are calculated. Pure and combination waves are continued to maximum amplitude. It is found that the height is limited in all cases by the surface enclosing one or more bubbles. Results for the shape of gravity waves are obtained by solving an integra-differential equation. It is found that the family of solutions giving the waveheight or equivalent parameter has bifurcation points. Two bifurcation points and the branches emanating from them are found specifically, corresponding to a doubling and tripling of the wavelength. Solutions on the new branches are calculated.