Biotic and Abiotic factors in the distribution of resident fish species : a case study from two islets and an adjacent shoreline in Terceira Island, Azores, Portugal

XV European Congress of Ichthyology, Porto, Portugal, 7 Sep - 11 Sep, 2015.

What determines the wavelength of self-organized shoreline sand waves?

Shoreline undulations extending into the bathymetric contours with a length scale larger than that of the rhythmic surf zone bars are referred to as shoreline sand waves. Many observed undulations along sandy coasts display a wavelength in the order 1-7 km. Several models that are based on the hypothesis that sand waves emerge from a morphodynamic instability in case of very oblique wave incidence predict this range of wavelengths. Here we investigate the physical reasons for the wavelength selection and the main parametric trends of the wavelength in case of sand waves arising from such instability. It is shown that the existence of a minimum wavelength depends on an interplay between three factors affecting littoral drift: (A) the angle of wave fronts relative to local shoreline, which tends to cause maximum transport at the downdrift flank of the sand wave, (B) the refractive energy spreading which tends to cause maximum transport at the updrift flank and (C) wave focusing (de-focusing) by the capes (bays), which tends to cause maximum transport at the crest or slightly downdrift of it. Processes A and C cause decay of the sand waves while process B causes their growth. For low incidence angles, B is very weak so that a rectilinear shoreline is stable. For large angles and long sand waves, B is dominant and causes the growth of sand waves. For large angles and short sand waves C is dominant and the sand waves decay. Thus, wavelength selection depends on process C, which essentially depends on shoreline curvature. The growth rate of very long sand waves is weak because the alongshore gradients in sediment transport decrease with the wavelength. This is why there is an optimum or dominant wavelength. It is found that sand wave wavelength scales with λ0/β where λ0 is the water wave wavelength in deep water and β is the mean bed slope from shore to the wave base.

Mid- to Late Holocene shoreline reconstruction and human occupation in Ancient Eretria (South Central Euboea, Greece)

Few studies have aimed to reconstruct landscape change in the area of Eretria (South Central Euboea, Greece) during the last 6000 years. The aim of this paper is to partially fill in this gap by examining the interaction be- tween Mid- to Late Holocene shoreline evolution and human occupation, which is documented in the area from the Late Neolithic to the Late Roman period (with discontinuities). Evidence of shoreline displacements is derived from the study of five boreholes (maximum depth of 5.25 m below the surface) drilled in the lowlands of Eretria. Based on sedimentological analyses and micro/macrofaunal identifications, different facies have been identified in the cores and which reveal typical features of deltaic progradation with marine, lagoonal, fluvio- deltaic and fluvial environments. In addition, a chronostratigraphy has been obtained based on 20 AMS 14C radio- carbon dates performed on samples of plant remains and marine/lagoonal shells found in situ. The main sequences of landscape reconstruction in the plain of Eretria can be summarized as follows: a marine environ- ment predominated from ca. 4000 to 3200 cal. BC and a gradual transition to shallow marine conditions is ob- served ca. 3200-3000 cal. BC due to the general context of deltaic progradation west of the ancient city. Subsequently, from ca. 3000 to 2000 cal. BC, a lagoon occupied the area in the vicinity of the Temple of Apollo and the settlement's development was restricted to several fluvio-deltaic levees, thus severely limiting human activities in the plain. From ca. 2000 to 800 cal. BC, a phase of shallow marine presence prevailed and constrained settlement on higher ground, forcing abandonment of the major part of the plain. Finally, since the eighth century BC, the sea has regressed southward and created the modern landscape.

Evolution of the modern Nile delta promontories: development of accretional features during shoreline retreat

The active accretional features that have developed along the modern Nile Delta promontories during shoreline retreat are analysed using topographic maps, remote imagery, ground and hydrographic surveys, together providing 15 time-slice maps (1922-2000) at Rosetta and 14 time-slice maps (1909-2000) at Damietta. Small double sandy spits developed and persisted at Rosetta between 1986 and 1991. At Damietta, a much larger single spit, 9 km long, formed approximately east of the mouth of the Damietta Nile branch between 1955 and 1972, although its source has now been depleted. Both the Rosetta and Damietta inlets are associated with submerged mouth bars that accumulated prior to the damming of the Nile, but that continue to contribute to local sedimentation problems, particularly at Rosetta. The development of the active accretional features along the Nile promontories reflects a combination of factors including sediment availability, transport pathways from source areas, a decrease in the magnitude of Nile flood discharges, as well as the impact of protective structures at the river mouths.

Simulation Of Shoreline Changes Along Muthalapozhy Harbour, India

A study of Muthalapozhy fishing harbour, located in south India, was conducted for simulating shoreline changes using LITPACK modelling tool. The analysis shows that the estimated advancement in shoreline is of the order of 45 m/year initially, which gradually reduces to 25 m/year. It was also found that the coastline advances more during the south-west monsoon (i.e. June to September) season. Simulation of breakwaters shows that the length of the breakwater should be increased by 200 m for south breakwater and 70 m for north breakwater to keep the channel operational without dredging till 2016. The results of the simulated shoreline will help the port managers for maintaining the channel round the year.

The effects of soil pollution and its relation with morbidity in shoreline areas

Soil and subsoil pollution is not only significant in terms of environmental loss, but also a matter of environmental and public health. Solid, liquid and gaseous residues are the major soil contamination agents. They originate from urban conglomerates and industrial areas in which it is impossible to emphasize the chemical, petrochemical and textile industry; thermoelectric, mining, and ironmaster activities. The contamination process can thus be defined as a compound addition to soil, from what qualitative and or quantitative manners can modify soil's natural characteristics and use, producing baneful and deteriorative effects on human health. Studies have shown that human exposition to high concentration of some heavy metals found on soil can cause serious health problems, such as pulmonary or kidney complications, liver and nervous system harm, allergy, and the chronic exposition that leads to death. The present study searches for the correlation among soil contamination, done through a geochemical baseline survey of an industrial contamination area on the shoreline of Sao Paulo state. The study will be conducted by spatial analysis using Geographical Information Systems for mapping and regression analysis. The used data are 123 soil samples of percentage concentration of heavy metals. They were sampled and spatially distributed by geostatistics methods. To verify if there is a relation between heavy metals soil pollution and morbidity an executed correlation and regression analysis will be done using the pollution registers as the independent variables and morbidity as dependable variables. It is expected, by the end of the study, to identify the areas relation between heavy metals soil pollution and morbidity, moreover to be able to provide assistance in terms of new methodologies that could facilitate soil pollution control programs and public health planning. © 2010 WIT Press.

Use of synthetic aperture radar for recognition of Coastal Geomorphological Features, land-use assessment and shoreline changes in Bragança coast, Pará, Northern Brazil

Imagens de radar de abertura sintética (SAR) vem sendo bem mais utilizadas do que antes nas aplicações de geociências em regiões tropicais úmidas. Nesta investigação, uma imagem RADARSAT-1, na banda C, polarização HH adquirida em 1998 foi usada para o mapeamento costeiro e avaliação da cobertura da terra na área de Bragança, norte do Brasil. Imagem do radar aerotransportado GEMS-1000, na banda X, polarização HH, adquirida em 1972 durante o projeto RADAM foi também utilizada para avaliar as variações costeiras ocorridas nas últimas três décadas. A pesquisa tem confirmado a utilidade da imagem RADARSAT-1 para o mapeamento geomorfológico e avaliação da cobertura da terra, particularmente em costas de manguezal de macromaré. Além disso, um novo método para estimar as variações da linha de costa baseado na superposição de vetores extraídos de diferentes imagens SAR, com alta acurácia geométrica, tem mostrado que a planície costeira de Bragança tem estado sujeita a severa erosão responsável pelo recuo de aproximadamente 32 km² e acreção de 20 km², resultando em uma perda de área de manguezal de aproximadamente 12 km². Como perspectiva de aplicação, dados SAR orbitais e aerotransportados provaram ser uma importante fonte de informação tanto para o mapeamento geomorfológico, quando para o monitoramento de modificações costeiras em ambientes tropicais úmidos.

Multi-temporal shoreline change rates on Taku Atoll

Recent-past shoreline changes on reef islands are now subject to intensified monitoring via remote sensing data. Based on these data, rates of shoreline change calculated from long-term measurements (decadal) are often markedly lower than recent short-term rates (over a number of years). This observation has raised speculations about the growing influence of sea-level rise on reef island stability. This observation, however, can also be explained if we consider two basic principles of geomorphology and sedimentology. For Takú Atoll, Papua New Guinea, we show that natural shoreline fluctuations of dynamic reef islands have a crucial influence on the calculation of short-term rates of change. We analyze an extensive dataset of multitemporal shoreline change rates from 1943 to 2012 and find that differing rates between long- and short-term measurements consistently reflect the length of the observation interval. This relationship appears independent from the study era and indicates that reef islands were equally dynamic during the early periods of analysis, i.e. before the recent acceleration of sea-level rise. Consequently, we suggest that high rates of shoreline change calculated from recent short-term observations may simply result from a change in temporal scale and a shift from geomorphic equilibrium achieved over cyclic time towards an apparent disequilibrium during shorter periods of graded time. This new interpretation of short- and long-term shoreline change rates has important implications for the ongoing discussion about reef island vulnerability, showing that an observed jump from low to high rates of change may be independent from external influences, including but not limited to sea-level rise.

Shoreline change on nine reef islands over a seven-decade period

Atoll islands are subject to a variety of processes that influence their geomorphological development. Analysis of historical shoreline changes using remotely sensed images has become an efficient approach to both quantify past changes and estimate future island response. However, the detection of long-term changes in beach width is challenging mainly for two reasons: first, data availability is limited for many remote Pacific islands. Second, beach environments are highly dynamic and strongly influenced by seasonal or episodic shoreline oscillations. Consequently, remote-sensing studies on beach morphodynamics of atoll islands deal with dynamic features covered by a low sampling frequency. Here we present a study of beach dynamics for nine islands on Takú Atoll, Papua New Guinea, over a seven-decade period. A considerable chronological gap between aerial photographs and satellite images was addressed by applying a new method that reweighted positions of the beach limit by identifying "outlier" shoreline positions. On top of natural beach variability observed along the reweighted beach sections, we found that one third of the analyzed islands show a statistically significant decrease in reweighted beach width since 1943. The total loss of beach area for all islands corresponds to 44% of the initial beach area. Variable shoreline trajectories suggest that changes in beach width on Takú Atoll are dependent on local control (that is, human activity and longshore sediment transport). Our results show that remote imagery with a low sampling frequency may be sufficient to characterize prominent morphological changes in planform beach configuration of reef islands.

Table 1 : AMS-14C data used for the reconstruction of the Wismar Bay shoreline displacement curve

The Baltic coast of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern is located in the transition Zone between the region of Fennoscandian Uplift and the Central European Depression. In relation to the eustatic sea-level rise, the northeast coast shows a slower inundation, while for the southwestern area a faster transgression is indicated, which can be attributed to crustal movements. To determine the spatial and temporal differences since the onset of the Littorina Transgression, three relative sea-level curves have been established along a transect parallel to the gradient of upliftlsubsidence. The Wismar Bay area is one endpoint of the transect demonstrating today 10 Abb., 2 Tab. a relative sea-level rise of 1.4 mm/a. To determine the relative sea-level curve for the Wismar Bay, two sites were investigated on Rustwerder Spit (Poel) and Redentin. They provided reliable depth-age data, while the stratigraphy was additionally supported by lithological/geochemical, pollen, diatom and macrofossil data. Additional evidence was provided by archaeological submarine surveys and excavations. Comparing the new relative sea-level curve with a curve from the Vorpommern coast, it can be shown that for the period from 4000 cal BC until present, the differences between the two curves are caused by a constant neotectonic movement, while for the older periods an increasing isostatic component must be taken into account.