949 resultados para Rock climbing


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There were three purposes to this study. The first purpose was to determine how learning can be influenced by various factors i~ the rock climbing experience. The second purpose was to examine what people can learn from the rock climbing experience. The third purpose was to investigate whether that learning can transfer from the rock climbing experience to the subjects' real life in the workplace. Ninety employees from a financial corporation in the Niagara Region volunteered for this study. All subjects were surveyed throughout a one-day treatment. Ten were purposefully selected one month later for interviews. Ten themes emerged from the subjects in terms of what was learned. Inspiration, motivation, and determination, preparation, goals and limitations, perceptions and expectations, confidence and risk taking, trust and support, teamwork, feedback and encouragement, learning from failure, and finally, skills and flow. All participants were able to transfer what was learned back to the workplace. The results of this study suggested that subjects' learning was influenced by their ability to: take risks in a safe environment, fail without penalty, support each other, plan without time constraints, and enjoy the company of fellow workers that they wouldn't normally associate with. Future directions for research should include different types of treatments such as white water rafting, sky diving, tall ship sailing, or caving.

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The present study cross-sectionally investigated the influence of training status, route difficulty and upper body aerobic and anaerobic performance of climbers on the energetics of indoor rock climbing. Six elite climbers (EC) and seven recreational climbers ( RC) were submitted to the following laboratory tests: ( a) anthropometry, (b) upper body aerobic power, and ( c) upper body Wingate test. on another occasion, EC subjects climbed an easy, a moderate, and a difficult route, whereas RC subjects climbed only the easy route. The fractions of the aerobic (WAER), anaerobic alactic (W-PCR) and anaerobic lactic (W-[La(])-) systems were calculated based on oxygen uptake, the fast component of excess post-exercise oxygen uptake, and changes in net blood lactate, respectively. on the easy route, the metabolic cost was significantly lower in EC [ 40.3 ( 6.5) kJ] than in RC [60.1 ( 8.8) kJ] ( P < 0.05). The respective contributions of the WAER, WPCR, and W-[La(])- systems in EC were: easy route = 41.5 (8.1), 41.1 (11.4) and 17.4% (5.4), moderate route = 45.8 (8.4), 34.6 (7.1) and 21.9% (6.3), and difficult route = 41.9 (7.4), 35.8 (6.7) and 22.3% (7.2). The contributions of the WAER, WPCR, and W-[La(])- systems in RC subjects climbing an easy route were 39.7 (5.0), 34.0 (5.8), and 26.3% (3.8), respectively. These results indicate that the main energy systems required during indoor rock climbing are the aerobic and anaerobic alactic systems. In addition, climbing economy seems to be more important for the performance of these athletes than improved energy metabolism.

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Bertuzzi, R, Franchini, E, Tricoli, V, Lima-Silva, AE, Pires, FDO, Okuno, NM, and Kiss, MAPDM. Fit-climbing test: A field test for indoor rock climbing. J Strength Cond Res 26(6): 1558-1563, 2012-The aim of this study was to develop an indoor rock-climbing test on an artificial wall (Fit-climbing test). Thirteen climbers (elite group [EG] = 6; recreational group [RG] = 7) performed the following tests: (a) familiarization in the Fitclimbing test, (b) the Fit-climbing test, and (c) a retest to evaluate the Fit-climbing test's reliability. Gas exchange, blood lactate concentration, handgrip strength, and heart rate were measured during the test. Oxygen uptake during the Fit-climbing test was not different between groups (EG = 8.4 +/- 1.1 L; RG = 7.9 +/- 1.5 L, p > 0.05). The EG performance (120 +/- 7 movements) was statistically higher than the RG climbers' performance (78 +/- 13 movements) during the Fit-climbing test. Consequently, the oxygen cost per movement during the Fit-climbing test of the EG was significantly lower than that of the RG (p < 0.05). Handgrip strength was higher in the EG when compared with that in the RG in both pre-Fit- and post-Fit-climbing test (p < 0.05). There were no significant differences in any other variables analyzed during the Fit-climbing test (p > 0.05). Furthermore, the performance in the Fit-climbing test presented high reliability (intraclass correlation coefficient = 0.97). Therefore, the performance during the Fit-climbing test may be an alternative to evaluate rock climbers because of its specificity and relation to oxygen cost per movement during climbing.

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Taking risk with all the consequences inevitably belongs to climbing. Each climber confronts his or her skills with the route he or she has chosen for an ascent. If the route is well protected, the rate of risk the climber takes is lower. If the route is less protected, the level of risk that the climber is exposed to proportionally increases. The aim of the research is to determine the level of risk-taking in traditional climbing on sandstone. We focus on how the level of risk affects climber’s performance and what reserve a climber needs to be able to cope with the higher risk and reduce it? The problem is solved by methods of quantitative research and the sample comprises more than 300 respondents. The results of the research prove a significant difference of climbers’ performance in dependence on rate of risk. Climbers usually reach lower performance according to the grading scale when climbing traditional routes with a higher level of risk.

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Currently, there are a variety of concerns about the future of bouldering, a form of rock climbing, a t the Niagara Glen Nature Reserve near Niagara Falls, Ontario due to environmental impacts at the site. The purpose of this study was to describe the perceptions ofbouldering participants toward sustainable bouldering practices at the Niagara Glen. The methodological framework for this study was based on action research, which attempts to solve specific problems through having people in a community study, discuss, and act on those problems. Five separate focus group interviews elicited data from nineteen men and seven women, while there were twenty one men and ten women observed through participant observations at the Niagara Glen. Analysis was conducted through coding processes where data were compared repeatedly and then organized into themes. From the open coding process, two main themes were identified and interpreted as 1) Barriers to Sustainable Bouldering at the Niagara Glen Nature Reserve, and 2) Environmental and Social Role and Responsibility ofBoulde r ing Participants at the Niagara Glen. The implications of the findings include a variety of recommendations for the bouldering community and the Niagara Parks Commission to consider for future collaborative planning. Some of these recommendations include more open communication between all stakeholders at the Glen, additional leadership from local climbing access coalitions and the Niagara Parks Commission, and greater implementation of minimum impact practices from the bouldering community. Additionally, these implications are discussed through a three-part framework based on a conceptual intersection of sense of place, community empowerment, and sustainable recreational use as a way to potentially unify the bouldering community's voice and vision toward sustainable practice.

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Le cas que nous exposons ici est extrait d’un travail de recherche plus vaste ayant pour objet une analyse comparative de plusieurs institutions1 où vivent et se transmettent des savoirs sécuritaires propres à l’escalade. Notre étude met en face à face des institutions clairement identifiées comme didactiques - c’est le cas de l’école au sens large de l’acception - c’est-à-dire des institutions où l’intention de transmettre y est toujours mise en avant, mais aussi d’autres institutions «à la limite» du didactique telles les organismes de loisirs sportifs, ainsi que des institutions a priori non didactiques comme une famille ou un groupe d’amis, où le mode de transmission des savoirs relève majoritairement d’un système d’apprentissage par frayage (Delbos & Jorion, 1990), (Hutchins, 1995). Le sujet est abordé sous l’angle didactique de la gestion des risques (Mangeant, 2008). La recherche repose en partie sur la théorie des situations didactiques (Brousseau, 1998) et notamment la notion de contrat entendu comme une convention implicite, mais aussi pour nous dans notre sujet, comme accord explicite sur les règles de fonctionnement. Elle s’appuie également sur le modèle de l’action enseignante et le triplet des genèses (Sensevy, Mercier & Schubauer- Leoni, 2000) et plus précisément sur le principe de l’action conjointe du professeur et des élèves (Sensevy & Mercier, 2007). Le travail s’attache à démontrer que des phénomènes de contrat, peuvent être à l’origine de failles dans la sécurité, et potentiellement pourvoyeurs de futurs accidents. Ainsi, au-delà du manque de vigilance communément invoqué, il y aurait donc des causes didactiques à l’occurrence des accidents, dont les explications sont parfois à rechercher à l’origine dans la formation des intervenants ou dans le mode de transmission des savoirs

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The search for new non-routine emotions and sensations has become a decisive factor in taking part in adventure tourism. As Barros and Dines (2000) have pointed out, Brazil's natural resources are abundant and have been widely used to promote the nation's tourism. Empirical literature describes fear as one of the main emotions in adventure activities, and for this reason a questionnaire was designed to examine the presence of fear before and after three adventure activities (parachuting, white-water rafting, and rock-climbing). This study not only aimed to consolidate fear as a fundamental emotion in performing such activities but also to stimulate interest for further studies in this area. (C) 2009 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

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Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

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Pós-graduação em Ciências da Motricidade - IBRC

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Zusammenfassung: Freizeitaktivitäten wie Mountainbiking, Sportklettern, Drachen- und Gleitschirmfliegen oder Windsur-fen sind relativ neue Erscheinungen der letzten fünfzehn bis fünfundzwanzig Jahre. Ihre Entwicklung und Ausdifferenzierung beschränkt sich vor allem auf Gesellschaften westlich-industrieller Prägung, deren Grundlage ein funktional differenziertes Gesellschaftssystem ist. Mit Hilfe des Beobachtungsin-strumentes der neueren soziologischen Systemtheorie wird zunächst das Aufkommen und die immer fortschreitende Ausdifferenzierung von Trend- und Natursportarten analysiert und gedeutet. Es zeigt sich, daß diese neuen Freizeitaktivitäten über den Zugriff auf die eigene Körperlichkeit in hohem Ma-ße zur Identitätsfindung der Individuen solcher Gesellschaftssysteme beitragen.Aus geographischer Sicht stellt sich die Frage nach der Bedeutung dieser Entwicklung für die Land-schaft. Dabei wird Landschaft explizit nicht als etwas verstanden, daß 'an sich' existiert, sondern als etwas, das 'erlebt' oder 'begriffen', also immer wieder aufs Neue im Auge des Betrachters konstru-iert wird. Für die Sporttreibenden von Trend- und Natursportarten ist der Blick auf die Welt durch ihre Sportart strukturiert. Jedenfalls immer dann, wenn es darum geht, eine Sportstätte für ihre jeweilige Sportausübung auszuwählen. Die Naturlandschaft (oder auch Kulturlandschaft) wird damit zur 'Sportlandschaft'. Der Begriff der 'Landschaft' erscheint dann im Sinne Werlens 'alltäglichen Geo-graphie-Machens' als eine permanent neu zu erstellende und damit sich auch ständig verändernde Perspektive auf die Objektwelt. So kann sich im Auge der Sporttreibenden von Trend- und Natur-sportarten jedes Objekt und jede Landschaft, wenn man so will: die Welt, als ein einziger großer Sportplatz darstellen.Wenn also alles potentiell eine Sportstätte sein kann, stellt sich die Frage, wie es zur Herausbildung sogenannter Top Spots kommt, also zu jenen Sportstätten, die innerhalb der jeweiligen Sportart von herausragender Bedeutung sind - sozusagen die oberste Sprosse der Karriereleiter erklommen haben - und an der jeder gewesen sein muß, der innerhalb der sportartspezifischen Szene etwas gelten will. Dieser Frage wird anhand eines Fallbeispiels nachgegangen. Als Grundlage wurde ein Untersu-chungsgebiet gewählt, das sich bereits in einem fortgeschrittenen Stadium der Entwicklung zu einem Top Spot befindet - eine Landschaft also, die bereits eine 'Karriere als Sportlandschaft' aufzuweisen hat. Die peripher gelegene US-amerikanische Kleinstadt Moab in Südost-Utah (ca. 5.000 Einwohner) hat sich seit Anfang der 1990er Jahre zu einem internationalen Szene-Treffpunkt für Mountainbiking entwickelt. Zu dem wichtigsten Mountainbike-Trail (dem Slickrock Bike Trail) kommen pro Jahr al-lein mehr als 200.000 Mountainbike-TouristInnen. Neben dem Mountainbiking spielt River Rafting eine bedeutende Rolle im Tourismus und es hat sich dort in den letzten Jahren außerdem eine kleine Sportkletter-Szene etabliert, die in den nächsten Jahren sicherlich noch an Bedeutung zunehmen wird.

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En la literatura se ha descrito el perfil antropométrico y la respuesta psicofisiológica en escalada deportiva en roca, pero hasta la fecha, no se habían analizado las diferencias existentes entre sus principales modalidades. El objetivo de la presente tesis fue describir las características antropométricas del escalador de competición y comprobar la existencia de diferencias entre los participantes de distintas modalidades, así como analizar la respuesta psico-fisiológica durante la ejecución de un búlder y una vía, además de evaluar las diferencias entre su realización a vista o tras un ensayo. Para ello, efectuamos dos estudios diferentes: en el primero participaron voluntariamente 61 hombres y 18 mujeres, participantes en cuatro pruebas del circuito nacional de competición de escalada durante el año 2009, tres de ellas de la modalidad de dificultad a vista y una de búlder. Se realizaron mediciones antropométricas, prueba de fuerza de prensión manual antes y después de competir, y se cumplimentó un cuestionario donde se evaluaba la percepción del esfuerzo y la experiencia deportiva. En el segundo estudio, 23 escaladores, 15 hombres y 8 mujeres, divididos en tres grupos en función de su nivel de rendimiento, realizaron de manera voluntaria distintas pruebas durante tres días separados entre sí al menos 48 horas. El primer día rellenaron un cuestionario sobre su experiencia deportiva y nivel de rendimiento, fueron pesados, tallados y sometidos a un escáner de cuerpo completo en densitómetro con objeto de medir la composición corporal. El segundo día realizaron previo calentamiento, un búlder a vista y, tras un descanso de 15 minutos, escalaron una vía a vista acorde con su nivel. El tercer día, después de calentar y disponer de 20 minutos para ensayarlo, repitieron la escalada del búlder. Tras un descanso de 15 minutos y 20 minutos de ensayo, realizaron un segundo intento a la vía. Se registraron los valores en la respuesta cardiorrespiratoria, se obtuvieron muestras de lactato en sangre del lóbulo de la oreja y se realizaron pruebas de fuerza de prensión manual antes y después de la escalada. También se pasó un cuestionario para medir la ansiedad y autoconfianza así como el esfuerzo percibido. Los resultados no mostraron diferencias antropométricas significativas entre los participantes en competiciones de búlder y los que participaron en competiciones de escalada de dificultad a vista. Se dieron diferencias en la pérdida de fuerza antes y después de escalar entre dichos participantes. Las mujeres obtuvieron menor fuerza de prensión manual que los hombres pero la misma pérdida de fuerza entre el instante antes de competir y el posterior. La respuesta fisiológica durante la ejecución del búlder fue menor que la obtenida durante la ejecución de la vía. Hubo pérdida de fuerza de prensión manual entre el instante anterior y el posterior a ejecutar la vía, pero no al hacer el búlder. Sin embargo, no se dieron diferencias en la ansiedad y la autoestima provocada por ambas modalidades, por lo que deducimos que la ejecución de un búlder y una vía presentan una respuesta fisiológica distinta. Proponemos que la respuesta está relacionada, sobre todo, con las variables de ejecución, de tal manera que a mayor distancia y/o tiempo recorrido en la escalada, mayor será la contribución anaeróbica al esfuerzo y la fatiga manifestada como pérdida de fuerza que, en el caso del búlder, fue mínima o inexistente. En el segundo intento, tras un ensayo de 20 minutos en el búlder, se consiguió mejorar el rendimiento respecto al primer intento, que se manifestó con un aumento en la distancia recorrida. Sin embargo, en la vía no se dieron diferencias entre ambos intentos, ni en la ejecución, ni en la respuesta fisiológica, ni en la ansiedad, ni siquiera en la fuerza de prensión manual. ABSTRACT It has been described in the literature the anthropometric profile and psychophysiological response in rock climbing, but so far not been analyzed differences between its main modalities. The aim of this thesis was to describe the anthropometric characteristics of the climber competitor and check for differences between participants of different modalities and to analyze the psycho-physiological response during the execution of a boulder and a route also to assess differences between on sight and redpoint attempts. We made two different studies: in the first 61 men and 18 women who attended four competitions of national climbing circuit in 2009, three of them on-sight difficulty competitions and a boulder competition participated voluntarily. Anthropometric measurements, a hand grip strength test before and after competing were registered for each climber, and a questionnaire which assessed perception of effort and the climbing experience was fulfilled. In the second study, various tests were conducted on 23 volunteer climbers, 15 men and 8 women, during three days separated for, at least, 48 hours of resting, divided into three groups according to their performance. The first day, climbers completed a questionnaire on their experience and performance level. It was recorded weight, height and they underwent a full body scan densitometer in order to measure body composition. The second day, after previous warming-up, they climbed a boulder on sight and, after a break of 15 minutes, climbed a route on-sight according to their level. The third day, after warming-up and have 20 minutes to try it, they repeated the bouldering climbing. After a break of 15 minutes and 20 minutes of essaying, they made a second attempt at the route. Values in the cardiorespiratory response were recorded, blood lactate samples were obtained from earlobe, and hand grip strength was tested before and after the climb. They also filled a questionnaire to measure anxiety and self-confidence and perceived exertion. The results showed no significant anthropometric differences between participants in bouldering competitions and participants in competitions on-sight difficulty climbing. There were found differences in strength loss before and after climbing between those participants. Women had less hand grip strength than men but the same loss of strength between the records carried out before and after competing. The physiological response recorded for boulder climbing was lower than the obtained for the route. There was loss of hand grip strength between the time before and after running the route but not for bouldering. However, there were no differences in anxiety and self-esteem caused by both modalities, so we conclude that the implementation of a boulder and a route have different physiological responses. We think that this response is mainly related to performance variables, as a greater distance and/or travel time on the climb, the higher the anaerobic contribution to the effort and fatigue as manifested by loss of strength in the case of the boulder was minimal or nonexistent. In the second attempt after 20 minutes in the boulder better performance was achieved on the first attempt, which was manifested by an increment of climbing distance. However, there were the differences in the route between the two attempts, either in execution or in the physiological response, or anxiety, or even in hand grip strength.

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El autor de este proyecto es miembro reciente de la asociación SoloBoulder, dedicada a la modalidad de escalada boulder, noticias y actualidad, contenido multimedia, promoción de un equipo de escaladores y defensa de valores medioambientales en la montaña. El principal canal de distribución de contenidos es una página web existente previa a este proyecto. La asociación ha detectado una escasez y mala calidad de recursos en internet en cuanto a guías de zonas donde poder practicar el boulder. Tal circunstancia impulsa la iniciativa de este proyecto fin de carrera. El objetivo general es el desarrollo de una nueva aplicación que proporcione a los usuarios a nivel mundial una guía interactiva de boulder y otros puntos de interés, una red social que permita la creación cooperativa y orgánica de contenido, y servicios web para el consumo de la información desde otras plataformas u organizaciones. El nuevo software desarrollado es independiente de la página web de SoloBoulder previa. No obstante, ambas partes se integran bajo el mismo domino web y aspecto. La nueva aplicación ofrece a escaladores y turistas un servicio informativo e interactivo de calidad, con el que se espera aumentar el número de visitas en todo el sitio web y poder ampliar la difusión de valores medioambientales, diversificar las zonas de boulder y regular las masificadas, favorecer el deporte y brindar al escalador una oportunidad de autopromoción personal. Una gran motivación para el autor también es el proceso de investigación y formación en tecnologías, patrones arquitecturales de diseño y metodologías de trabajo adaptadas a las tendencias actuales en la ingeniería de software, con especial curiosidad hacia el mundo web. A este respecto podemos destacar: metodología de trabajo en proyectos, análisis de proyectos, arquitecturas de software, diseño de software, bases de datos, programación y buenas prácticas, seguridad, interfaz gráfica web, diseño gráfico, Web Performance Optimization, Search Engine Optimization, etc. En resumen, este proyecto constituye un aprendizaje y puesta en práctica de diversos conocimientos adquiridos durante la ejecución del mismo, así como afianzamiento de materias estudiadas en la carrera. Además, el producto desarrollado ofrece un servicio de calidad a los usuarios y favorece el deporte y la autopromoción del escalador. ABSTRACT. The author of this Project is recent member of the association SoloBoulder, dedicated to a rock climbing discipline called bouldering, news, multimedia content, promotion of a team of climbers and defense of environmental values in the mountain. The main content distribution channel is a web page existing previous to this project. The association has detected scarcity and bad quality of resources on the internet about guides of bouldering areas. This circumstance motivates the initiative of this project. The general objective is the development of a new application which provides a worldwide, interactive bouldering guide, including other points of interest, a social network which allows the cooperative and organic creation of content, and web services for consumption of information from other platforms or organizations. The new software developed is independent of the previous SoloBoulder web page. However, both parts are integrated under the same domain and appearance. The new application offers to climbers and tourists a quality informative and interactive service, with which we hope to increase the number of visits in the whole web site and be able to expand the dissemination of environmental values, diversify boulder areas and regulate the overcrowded ones, encourage sport and offer to the climber an opportunity of self-promotion. A strong motivation for the author is also the process of investigation and education in technologies, architectural design patterns and working methodologies adapted to the actual trends in software engineering, with special curiosity about the web world. In this regard we could highlight: project working methodologies, project analysis, software architectures, software design, data bases, programming and good practices, security, graphic web interface, graphic design, Web Performance Optimization, Search Engine Optimization, etc. To sum up, this project constitutes learning and practice of diverse knowledge acquired during its execution, as well as consolidation of subjects studied in the degree. In addition, the product developed offers a quality service to the users and favors the sport and the selfpromotion of the climber.

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A Escalada é uma modalidade desportiva que tem apresentado um aumento exponencial ao nível da sua popularidade como também relativamente ao número de praticantes. O objetivo desta investigação foi realizar uma análise sobre o que subsiste atualmente a nível de investigação científica sobre a Escalada através de uma revisão sistemática, tendo em conta os artigos publicados nos últimos 10 anos. A pesquisa foi realizada na B-on, disponibilizando o acesso ilimitado e permanente às instituições de investigação e do ensino superior aos textos integrais de milhares periódicos científicos e ebooks online de alguns dos mais importantes fornecedores de conteúdos, através de assinaturas negociadas a nível nacional. Após a aplicação dos critérios de exclusão, foram selecionados 25 artigos que foram analisados na íntegra e incluídos na revisão. São, na sua grande maioria, estudos qualitativos e realizados no Reino Unido. Praticamente todas as investigações são estudos transversais e alguns deles baseados numa reduzida amostra de indivíduos do sexo masculino.