Assessment of the pilling propensity of wool knitwear

This study addresses a major issue facing the wool industry - the formation of entangled fibres or pills on wool knitwear. By examining the factors that contribute to the inconsistent pilling results, ways of improving the test procedures have been identified. This will have practical implications for the textile industry.

Objective evaluation of fabric pilling propensity

Fabric pilling is of critical importance to the textile industry. This study developed an objective pilling evaluation method using computer image techniques. The applicability and robustness of the proposed method were investigated based on actual knitted fabrics, the results are very accurate and repeatable.

Controlling and predicting the pilling propensity of knitted wool fabrics

This thesis tackles an important quality issue in the wool industry - the pilling of wool knitwear. Through artificial neural network modelling, the important fibre, yarn and fabric attributes that affect fabric pilling have been identified. A predictive model on fabric pilling has been developed, which will assist the wool industry in the management and control of fabric pilling.

Prediction of wool knitwear pilling propensity using data mining techniques

This thesis examined the application of data mining techniques to the issue of predicting pilling propensity of wool knitwear. Using real industrial data, a pilling propensity prediction tool with embedded trained support vector machines is developed to provide high accuracy prediction to wool knitwear even before the yarn is spun!

Recent research on natural fibres and textiles

This paper provides an overview of recent research on a range of natural fibres and textiles. The focus is on work carried out at Deakin University’s Centre for Material and Fibre Innovation, which is a multidisciplinary research centre with over 100 researchers. The fibres include hemp, wool, silk, and alpaca fibres. Research on yarns, fabrics, and fine powders made from wool and silk fibres are briefly discussed also.

The within-fibre diameter variation of wool has been examined systematically, which highlights the importance of this hard-to-measure fibre attribute. A relationship between hemp fibre fineness and residual gum content has been established, which provides a rapid means of assessing the residual gum content in the degummed hemp fibres. Silk and wool fibres have been converted into ultrafine powders for advanced applications. The Resistance to Compression (RtC) behaviour of wool and alpaca fibres has been closely examined, which challenges the belief that RtC is a good indicator of fibre softness. Ways of reducing the hairiness of natural fibre yarns, predicting the pilling propensity of wool knits, and functionalising fabrics for superhydrophobicity and photochromic or colour changing effects are discussed.

UV protection performance of textiles affected by fiber cross-sectional shape

Abstract
In this study, a model was set up for simulating the effects of varying fiber cross-sectional shapes on ultraviolet protection of fibers. The fiber diameter and fiber type were also involved in the model setting. Experiments of diffuse reflectance spectra measurement on natural (wool, cotton, silk), regenerated (bamboo viscose) and synthetic (polyester, nylon) fibers were conducted to verify the model predicted results. When a more complex shape was assumed as the fiber cross-section for model calculation, the predicted results have a better agreement with the actual results. The effects on ultraviolet absorption from fibers with different cross-sectional shapes were investigated at a single fiber, fiber bundle and yarn levels. With the same material, when the fiber cross-sectional area and the areal coverage of a single fiber were constant, the triangular shape had the lowest ultraviolet transmittance and the highest ultraviolet reflectance for a single fiber and also for a fiber bundle. The difference of fiber cross-sectional shapes was also significant in the ultraviolet protection of a single yarn.

Mechanistic modelling of pilling. Part II: Individual-fibre computational model

A one-dimensional computational model of pilling of a fibre assembly has been created. The model follows a set of individual fibres, as free ends and loops appear as fuzz and arc progressively withdrawn from the body of the assembly, and entangle to form pills, which eventually break off or are pulled out. The time dependence of the computation is given by ticks, which correspond to cycles of a wear and laundering process. The movement of the fibres is treated as a reptation process. A set of standard values is used as inputs to the computation. Predictions arc given of the change with a number Of cycles of mass of fuzz, mass of pills, and mass removed from the assembly. Changes in the standard values allow sensitivity studies to be carried out.

Mechanistic modelling of pilling. Part I: Detailing of mechanisms

Mechanistic models of pilling are discussed in general terms, and a framework for pilling simulations is thereby created. A fundamental flaw in earlier models of pilling is revealed. A more comprehensive model of fibre diffusion and withdrawal from the fabric is proposed, and this is solved in general terms to find the rate of fuzz growth. Fuzz wear-off and entanglement into pills are discussed. Fibre fatigue is introduced, and it is demonstrated that this potentially increases the rate of withdrawal of anchor fibres.

Colour effect on fibre diameter measurement with OFDA 2000

In this study, wool samples from Merino, Corriedale and Lincoln sheep with a wide range of fibre diameters have been dyed and measured for fibre diameter using OFDA 2000 in both dry and conditioned states. Variation in fibre diameter is observed on fibres with different colours in both dry and aqueous conditions. This could be due to an optical effect or more likely due to physical changes in the dyed fibres owing to the presence of dyes. Apart from their physical bulk, dyes may also affect the owing water content of fibres and hence have an influence on the swelling of fibres when they are measured under ambient regain and wet conditions.

Change in dielectric properties in the microwave frequency region of polypyrrole-coated textiles during aging

Complex permittivity of conducting polypyrrole (PPy)-coated Nylon-Lycra textiles ismeasured using a free space transmission measurement technique over the frequency range of1–18 GHz. The aging of microwave dielectric properties and reflection, transmission and absorptionfor a period of 18 months is demonstrated. PPy-coated fabrics are shown to be lossy over thefull frequency range. The levels of absorption are shown to be higher than reflection in the testedsamples. This is attributed to the relatively high resistivity of the PPy-coated fabrics. Both the dopantconcentration and polymerisation time affect the total shielding effectiveness and microwave agingbehaviour. Distinguishing either of these two factors as being exclusively the dominant mechanismof shielding effectiveness is shown to be difficult. It is observed that the PPy-coated Nylon-Lycrasamples with a p-toluene sulfonic acid (pTSA) concentration of 0.015 M and polymerisation times of60 min and 180 min have 37% and 26% decrease in total transmission loss, respectively, upon agingfor 72 weeks at room temperature (20 C, 65% Relative humidity (RH)). The concentration of thedopant also influences the microwave aging behaviour of the PPy-coated fabrics. The samples with ahigher dopant concentration of 0.027 mol/L pTSA are shown to have a transmission loss of 32.6% and16.5% for short and long polymerisation times, respectively, when aged for 72 weeks. The microwaveproperties exhibit better stability with high dopant concentration and/or longer polymerization times.High pTSA dopant concentrations and/or longer polymerisation times result in high microwaveinsertion loss and are more effective in reducing the transmission and also increasing the longevity ofthe electrical properties.