San Diego region wind transport and wave overwash report : Coast of California Storm and Tidal Waves Study /

Mode of access: Internet.

Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of f(w)=0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

A influência da batimetria no regime de impacte de tempestades. Estudo de um caso prático com recurso a SIG

Dissertação de Mestrado, Geomática – Ramo de Ciências da Informação Geográfica, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Instituto Superior de Engenharia, Universidade do Algarve, 2015

Composition of Carnian to Norian sandstones from the Wombat Plateau (Table 1)

The Carnian to Norian sediments, as much as 600 m in total thickness, recovered from ODP Sites 759 and 760 on the Wombat Plateau, are generally represented by fluvial-dominated deltaic successions. In general, the Carnian to Norian sandstones are quartzose. The average ratio of monocrystalline quartz grains, total feldspar grains, and total lithic fragments (i.e., Qm:F:Lt ratio) is 71:22:7. This indicates that they were derived mainly from the transitional continental and cratonic interior provenance terranes, such as the Pilbara Precambrian block to the south of the Wombat Plateau. The upper Carnian sediments, however, are characterized by more feldspathic sandstone petrofacies. They typically contain some volcanic rock fragments with trachytic texture and indicate the onset of the incipient rift-related tectonic movement, such as uplift and subsequent abrupt basin subsidence, together with volcanism in the Gondwana continental block. Mixed siliciclastic and carbonate cycles are typically intercalated in the prodelta to delta front deposits that developed mainly in a lagoon-like, restricted marine environment. The restricted marine environment developed during transgressions as the outflow of shallow water was restricted by depositional barriers. Around the barriers and/or delta lobes, carbonate shoals/banks were probably developed and the allochemical components of the neritic limestones may have been transported into the restricted marine environment by overwash processes and/or storm waves. Siliciclastic detritus, on the other hand, was mainly derived accompanied by delta progradation dominated by fluvial processes in the restricted marine environment. Therefore, we interpret the mixed siliciclastic and carbonate cycles in the deltaic successions to be a result of transgression-regression cycles in a deltaic system during the Late Triassic.

Age determination of North Atlantic sediment cores

Available overwash records from coastal barrier systems document significant variability in North Atlantic hurricane activity during the late Holocene. The same climate forcings that may have controlled cyclone activity over this interval (e.g., the West African Monsoon, El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO)) show abrupt changes around 6000 yrs B.P., but most coastal sedimentary records do not span this time period. Establishing longer records is essential for understanding mid-Holocene patterns of storminess and their climatic drivers, which will lead to better forecasting of how climate change over the next century may affect tropical cyclone frequency and intensity. Storms are thought to be an important mechanism for transporting coarse sediment from shallow carbonate platforms to the deep-sea, and bank-edge sediments may offer an unexplored archive of long-term hurricane activity. Here, we develop this new approach, reconstructing more than 7000 years of North Atlantic hurricane variability using coarse-grained deposits in sediment cores from the leeward margin of the Great Bahama Bank. High energy event layers within the resulting archive are (1) broadly correlated throughout an offbank transect of multi-cores, (2) closely matched with historic hurricane events, and (3) synchronous with previous intervals of heightened North Atlantic hurricane activity in overwash reconstructions from Puerto Rico and elsewhere in the Bahamas. Lower storm frequency prior to 4400 yrs B.P. in our records suggests that precession and increased NH summer insolation may have greatly limited hurricane potential intensity, outweighing weakened ENSO and a stronger West African Monsoon-factors thought to be favorable for hurricane development.

Surface wave and storm surge prediction during Hurricane Sandy

Hurricane Sandy was the largest storm on historical record in the Atlantic Ocean basin with extensive coastal damage caused by large waves and high storm surge. The primary objectives of this thesis are to compare and evaluate three different spatially-varying surface wind fields of Hurricane Sandy to investigate the impact of the differences between the complex wind fields on predictions of the sea surface evolution, and to evaluate the impact of the storm on the hydrodynamics in Great South Bay (GSB) and the discharge of ocean water into the back-barrier bay from overwash over Fire Island. Three different spatially-varying surface wind fields were evaluated and compared to wind observations, including the parametric Holland (1980) model (H80), the parametric Generalized Asymmetric Holland Model (GAHM), and results from the WeatherFlow Regional Atmospheric Modelling System (WRAMS). The winds were used to drive the coupled Delft3D-SWAN hydrodynamic and ocean wave models on a regional grid. The results indicate that the WRAMS wind field produces wave model predictions in the best agreement with significant wave height observations, followed by the GAHM and H80 wind fields and that a regional atmospheric wind model is best for hindcasting hurricane waves and water levels when detailed observations are available, while a parametric vortex model is best for forecasting hurricane sea surface conditions. Using a series of four connected Delft3D-SWAN grids to achieve finer resolution over Fire Island and GSB, a higher resolution WRAMS was used to predict waves and storm surge. The results indicate that strong local winds have the largest influence on water level fluctuations in GSB. Three numerical solutions were conducted with varying extents of barrier island overwash. The simulations allowing for minor and major overwash indicated good agreement with observations in the east end of GSB and suggest that island overwash provided a significant contribution of ocean water to GSB during the storm. Limiting the overwash in the numerical model directly impacts the total discharge into GSB from the ocean through existing inlets. The results of this study indicate that barrier island overwash had a significant impact on the water levels in eastern GSB.

Geomorphological constraining of tsunami (?) run-up in the Alcantarilha coastal lowland (Central Algarve, Portugal)

The Alcantarilha lowland, partly barred by a well developed barrier, including foredunes covering Pleistocene-Holocene beachrock and aeolianite, develops across the Alcantarilha infilled estuary, the beach-dune extending further SE until the Salgados lagoon. A topographic and coring survey revealed a peculiar feature at the leeward toe of the dune ridge close to the inlet area: a sandy fan with location, shape and morphology suggesting emplacement by single or multiple overwash of the barrier tip rather than tidal forcing. Its storm or tsunami origin and age are under investigation, and the only time-constrain available at present is that it should post-date ca. 6600 cal BP, the most recent in situ aeolianite (Moura et al., 2007) dated so far. METHODS, DATA SET AND RESULTS The fan boundaries are distinctive in aerial photos and satellite images: it is roughly ellipsoidal, ~200 m wide and ~300 m elongated paralleling the shoreline, rising ~ 0.9-1.2 m above the surrounding floodplain surface. Detailed topography shows that its short axis aligns with SW-NE elongated (though irregular) depressions in the dune crest, which link the beach with the fan. This could have favoured funnelling of, or erosion by, water overtopping the barrier but, in either case, the fan should correspond to extreme and abrupt event(s) of coastal flooding. 18 trenches and cores were performed in the exposed area of the fan and nearby flood plain to obtain samples and data on its sedimentology, lithostratigraphy and geometry. The fan consists of well sorted and rounded sand (Fig. 2). It thins away and wedges out landwards of the apex (located near Alc29T) where it is partly covered by dune sand. Its lower boundary is undulating and marked by textural contrast between sand (fan) and underlying mud (alluvial/lagoonal); an accumulation of marine-sourced perforated pebbles showing limited lateral continuity may pinpoint this boundary near the foredune (core Alc 25, ca. 80 m westward of profile in Fig.1); mud-balls were also observed immediately above this surface in cores and trenches. As the washover was probably emplaced in a barred lagoonal/estuarine floodplain setting, the fan’s northern outer belt is enclosed by low-energy sediments (not shown in Fig. 2).