A survey of the generation of ocean waves in a test basin

At present stage the analytical design of wave tolerance for floating structures and vessels is still imperfect due to the mutually complex and nonlinear phenomena between structures and waves. Wave tolerance design is usually carried out through iterative evaluations of results from model tests in a wave basin, and this is done in order to reach a final structural design. The wave generation has then become an important technology in the field of the coastal and ocean engineering. This paper summarizes the facilities of a test basin and a wave maker in Japan and also surveys the methodology of the generation of ocean waves in a test basin.

A Variational Stereo Method for the Three-Dimensional Reconstruction of Ocean Waves

We develop a novel remote sensing technique for the observation of waves on the ocean surface. Our method infers the 3-D waveform and radiance of oceanic sea states via a variational stereo imagery formulation. In this setting, the shape and radiance of the wave surface are given by minimizers of a composite energy functional that combines a photometric matching term along with regularization terms involving the smoothness of the unknowns. The desired ocean surface shape and radiance are the solution of a system of coupled partial differential equations derived from the optimality conditions of the energy functional. The proposed method is naturally extended to study the spatiotemporal dynamics of ocean waves and applied to three sets of stereo video data. Statistical and spectral analysis are carried out. Our results provide evidence that the observed omnidirectional wavenumber spectrum S(k) decays as k-2.5 is in agreement with Zakharov's theory (1999). Furthermore, the 3-D spectrum of the reconstructed wave surface is exploited to estimate wave dispersion and currents.

Offshore Measurements of Ocean Waves using Stereo Vision Systems

In recent years, remote sensing imaging systems for the measurement of oceanic sea states have attracted renovated attention. Imaging technology is economical, non-invasive and enables a better understanding of the space-time dynamics of ocean waves over an area rather than at selected point locations of previous monitoring methods (buoys, wave gauges, etc.). We present recent progress in space-time measurement of ocean waves using stereo vision systems on offshore platforms, which focus on sea states with wavelengths in the range of 0.01 m to 10 m. Classical epipolar techniques and modern variational methods are reviewed to reconstruct the sea surface from the stereo pairs sequentially in time. The statistical and spectral properties of the resulting observed waves are analyzed. Current improvements of the variational methods are discussed as future lines of research.

Experimental and theoretical study of motion of a barge as moored in ocean waves.

Mode of access: Internet.

Reproduction of recorded ocean waves in a ship model towing tank.

Mode of access: Internet.

Simplified method for estimating refraction and shoaling effects on ocean waves /

"November 1975."

Ocean waves across the Arctic: attenuation due to dissipation dominates over scattering for periods longer than 19 s

The poorly understood attenuation of surface waves in sea ice is generally attributed to the combination of scattering and dissipation. Scattering and dissipation have very different effects on the directional and temporal distribution of wave energy, making it possible to better understand their relative importance by analysis of swell directional spreading and arrival times. Here we compare results of a spectral wave model – using adjustable scattering and dissipation attenuation formulations – with wave measurements far inside the ice pack. In this case, scattering plays a negligible role in the attenuation of long swells. Specifically, scattering-dominated attenuation would produce directional wave spectra much broader than the ones recorded, and swell events arriving later and lasting much longer than observed. Details of the dissipation process remain uncertain. Average dissipation rates are consistent with creep effects but are 12 times those expected for a laminar boundary layer under a smooth solid ice plate.

A model of the wind direction signature in the Stokes emission vector from the ocean surface at microwave frequencies

This paper presents a model of the Stokes emission vector from the ocean surface. The ocean surface is described as an ensemble of facets with Cox and Munk's (1954) Gram-Charlier slope distribution. The study discusses the impact of different up-wind and cross-wind rms slopes, skewness, peakedness, foam cover models and atmospheric effects on the azimuthal variation of the Stokes vector, as well as the limitations of the model. Simulation results compare favorably, both in mean value and azimuthal dependence, with SSM/I data at 53° incidence angle and with JPL's WINDRAD measurements at incidence angles from 30° to 65°, and at wind speeds from 2.5 to 11 m/s.

Spectral and statistical characteristics of shoaling waves of Alleppey West coast of India

Some investigations on the spectral and statistical characteristics of deep water waves are available for Indian waters. But practically no systematic investigation on the shallow water wave spectral and probabilistic characteristics is made for any part of the Indian coast except for a few restricted studies. Hence a comprehensive study of the shallow water wave climate and their spectral and statistical characteristics for a location (Alleppey) along the southwest coast of India is undertaken based on recorded data. The results of the investigation are presented in this thesis.The thesis comprises of seven chapters

Study of a wind-wave numerical model and its integration with ocean and oil-spill numerical models

The ability to represent the transport and fate of an oil slick at the sea surface is a formidable task. By using an accurate numerical representation of oil evolution and movement in seawater, the possibility to asses and reduce the oil-spill pollution risk can be greatly improved. The blowing of the wind on the sea surface generates ocean waves, which give rise to transport of pollutants by wave-induced velocities that are known as Stokes’ Drift velocities. The Stokes’ Drift transport associated to a random gravity wave field is a function of the wave Energy Spectra that statistically fully describe it and that can be provided by a wave numerical model. Therefore, in order to perform an accurate numerical simulation of the oil motion in seawater, a coupling of the oil-spill model with a wave forecasting model is needed. In this Thesis work, the coupling of the MEDSLIK-II oil-spill numerical model with the SWAN wind-wave numerical model has been performed and tested. In order to improve the knowledge of the wind-wave model and its numerical performances, a preliminary sensitivity study to different SWAN model configuration has been carried out. The SWAN model results have been compared with the ISPRA directional buoys located at Venezia, Ancona and Monopoli and the best model settings have been detected. Then, high resolution currents provided by a relocatable model (SURF) have been used to force both the wave and the oil-spill models and its coupling with the SWAN model has been tested. The trajectories of four drifters have been simulated by using JONSWAP parametric spectra or SWAN directional-frequency energy output spectra and results have been compared with the real paths traveled by the drifters.

Offshore remote sensing of the ocean by stereo vision systems

In recent years, remote sensing imaging systems for the measurement of oceanic sea states have attracted renovated attention. Imaging technology is economical, non-invasive and enables a better understanding of the space-time dynamics of ocean waves over an area rather than at selected point locations of previous monitoring methods (buoys, wave gauges, etc.). We present recent progress in space-time measurement of ocean waves using stereo vision systems on offshore platforms, which focus on sea states with wavelengths in the range of 0.01 m to 1 m. Both traditional disparity-based systems and modern elevation-based ones are presented in a variational optimization framework: the main idea is to pose the stereoscopic reconstruction problem of the surface of the ocean in a variational setting and design an energy functional whose minimizer is the desired temporal sequence of wave heights. The functional combines photometric observations as well as spatial and temporal smoothness priors. Disparity methods estimate the disparity between images as an intermediate step toward retrieving the depth of the waves with respect to the cameras, whereas elevation methods estimate the ocean surface displacements directly in 3-D space. Both techniques are used to measure ocean waves from real data collected at offshore platforms in the Black Sea (Crimean Peninsula, Ukraine) and the Northern Adriatic Sea (Venice coast, Italy). Then, the statistical and spectral properties of the resulting observed waves are analyzed. We show the advantages and disadvantages of the presented stereo vision systems and discuss future lines of research to improve their performance in critical issues such as the robustness of the camera calibration in spite of undesired variations of the camera parameters or the processing time that it takes to retrieve ocean wave measurements from the stereo videos, which are very large datasets that need to be processed efficiently to be of practical usage. Multiresolution and short-time approaches would improve efficiency and scalability of the techniques so that wave displacements are obtained in feasible times.

Space-time ocean wave measurement using variational stereo vision systems

Remote sensing imaging systems for the measurement of oceanic sea states have recently attracted renovated attention. Imaging technology is economical, non-invasive and enables a better understanding of the space-time dynamics of ocean waves over an area rather than at selected point locations of previous monitoring methods (buoys, wave gauges, etc.). We present recent progress in space-time measurement of ocean waves using stereo vision systems on offshore platforms. Both traditional disparity-based systems and modern elevation-based ones are presented in a variational optimization framework: the main idea is to pose the stereoscopic reconstruction problem of the surface of the ocean in a variational setting and design an energy functional whose minimizer is the desired temporal sequence of wave heights. The functional combines photometric observations as well as spatial and temporal smoothness priors. Disparity methods estimate the disparity between images as an intermediate step toward retrieving the depth of the waves with respect to the cameras, whereas elevation methods estimate the ocean surface displacements directly in 3-D space. Both techniques are used to measure ocean waves from real data collected at offshore platforms in the Black Sea (Crimean Peninsula, Ukraine) and the Northern Adriatic Sea (Venice coast, Italy). Then, the statistical and spectral properties of the resulting observed waves are analyzed. We show the advantages and disadvantages of the presented stereo vision systems and discuss the improvement of their performance in critical issues such as the robustness of the camera calibration in spite of undesired variations of the camera parameters.

State of the Coast Report, San Diego Region : Coast of California Storm and Tidal Waves Study, Volume II-Appendices-Final.

Final report.

Interaction of waves and currents /

This report presents an overview of wave-current interacion, including comprehensive review of references to significant U.S. and foreign literature available through December 1981. Specific topics under review are the effects of horizontally and vertically varying currents on waves, wave refraction by currents, dissipation and turbulence, small- and medium-scale currents, caustics and focusing, and wave breaking. The results of the review are then examined for engineering applications. The most appropriate general-purpose computer program to include wave-current interaction is the Dutch Rijkswaterstaat program CREDIZ, which is based on a parabolic wave equation. Further applications include wave and current forces on structures and possibly sediment transport. The report concludes with a brief state-of-the-art review of wave-current interaction and a list of topics needing further research and development.

Stable three-dimensional biperiodic waves in shallow water /

"February 1988."