Measurement techniques for coastal waves and currents /

"November 1976."

The possible influence of curvature and rotation on ocean currents

Recent laboratory investigations have shown that rotation and (streamwise) curvature can have spectacular effects on momentum transport in turbulent shear flows. A simple model that takes account of these effects (based on an analogy with buoyant flows) utilises counterparts of the Richardson number Rg and the Monin-Oboukhov length. Estimates of Rg for meanders in ocean currents like the Gulf Stream show it to be of order 1 or more, while laboratory investigations reveal strong effects even at |Rg|∼0·1. These considerations lead to the conclusion that at a cyclonic bend in the Gulf Stream, a highly unstable flow in the outer half of the jet rides over a highly stable flow in the inner half. It is conjectured that the discrepancies noticed between observation and the various theories of Gulf Stream meanders, and such phenomena as the observed detachment of eddies from the Gulf Stream, may be due to the effects of curvature and rotation on turbulent transport.

Experimental Study on Vortex-Induced Vibrations of Submarine Pipeline Near Seabed Boundary in Ocean Currents

Unlike most previous studies on vortex- induced vibrations of a cylinder far from a boundary, this paper focuses On the influences of close proximity of a submarine pipeline to a rigid seabed boundary upon the dynamic responses of the pipeline in ocean currents. The effects of gap-to-diameter ratio and those of the stability parameter on the amplitude and frequency responses of a pipeline are investigated experimentally with a novel hydro-elastic facility. A comparison is made between the present experimental results Of the amplitude and frequency responses for the pipes with seabed boundary effects and those for wall-free cylinders given by Govardhan and Williamson (2000) and Anand ( 1985). The comparison shows that the close proximity of a pipeline to seabed has much influence on the vortex- induced vibrations of the pipeline. Both the width of the lock-in ranges in terms of V, and the dimensionless amplitude ratio A(max)/D become larger with the decrease of the gap-to-diameter ratio e/D. Moreover, the vibration of the pipeline becomes easier to occur and its amplitude response becomes more intensive with the decrease of the stability parameter, while the pipeline frequency responses are affected slightly by the stability parameter.

Ocean currents-induced pipeline lateral stability on sandy seabed

Unlike previous mechanical actuator loading methods, in this study, a hydrodynamic loading method was employed in a flow flume for simulating ocean currents induced submarine pipeline stability on a sandy seabed. It has been observed that, in the process of pipeline losing lateral stability in currents, there usually exist three characteristic times: (1) onset of sand scour; (2) slight lateral displacement of pipeline; and (3) breakout of pipeline. An empirical linear relationship is established between the dimensionless submerged weight of pipeline and Froude number for describing pipeline lateral stability in currents, in which the current-pipe-soil coupling effects are reflected. Scale effects are examined with the method of "modeling of models," and the sand particle size effects on pipeline stability are also discussed. Moreover, the pipeline stability in currents is compared with that in waves, which indicates that the pipeline laid directly upon the sandy seabed is more laterally stable in currents than in waves.

Experimental Study of Pipeline Stability on Sandy Seabed under the Influence of Ocean Currents

Ocean-current-induced pipeline stability on sandy seabed was simulated physically in a flow flume. The process of pipeline losing onbottom stability in currents was recorded and analyzed. Experimental data show that, for a pipeline directly laid on sandy seabed, there exists a linear relationship between the dimensionless submerged weight of pipeline and Froude number, in which the current-pipe-soil coupling effects are reflected. The sand-particle size effects on pipeline onbottom stability are further discussed. The new established empirical relationship may provide a guide for the engineering practice of current-induced on-bottom stability design of a submarine pipeline.

The Bassian Isthmus and the major ocean currents of southeast Australia influence the phylogeography and population structure of a southern Australian intertidal barnacle Catomerus polymerus (Darwin)

Southern Australia is currently divided into three marine biogeographical provinces based on faunal distributions and physical parameters. These regions indicate eastern and western distributions, with an overlap occurring in the Bass Strait in Victoria. However, studies indicate that the boundaries of these provinces vary depending on the species being examined, and in particular on the mode of development employed by that species, be they direct developers or planktonic larvae dispersers. Mitochondrial DNA sequence analysis of the surf barnacle Catomerus polymerus in southern Australia revealed an east–west phylogeographical split involving two highly divergent clades (cytochrome oxidase I 3.5 ± 0.76%, control region 6.7 ± 0.65%), with almost no geographical overlap. Spatial genetic structure was not detected within either clade, indicative of a relatively long-lived planktonic larval phase. Five microsatellite loci indicated that C. polymerus populations exhibit relatively high levels of genetic divergence, and fall into four subregions: eastern Australia, central Victoria, western Victoria and Tasmania, and South Australia. F_ST values between eastern Australia (from the eastern mitochondrial DNA clade) and the remaining three subregions ranged from 0.038 to 0.159, with other analyses indicating isolation by distance between the subregions of western mitochondrial origin. We suggest that the east–west division is indicative of allopatric divergence resulting from the emergence of the Bassian land-bridge during glacial maxima, preventing gene flow between these two lineages. Subsequently, contemporary ecological conditions, namely the East Australian, Leeuwin, and Zeehan currents and the geographical disjunctions at the Coorong and Ninety Mile Beach are most likely responsible for the four subregions indicated by the microsatellite data.

Ocean currents influence the genetic structure of an intertidal mollusc in southeastern Australia – implications for predicting the movement of passive dispersers across a marine biogeographic barrier

Major disjunctions among marine communities in southeastern Australia have been well documented, although explanations for biogeographic structuring remain uncertain. Converging ocean currents, environmental gradients, and habitat discontinuities have been hypothesized as likely drivers of structuring in many species, although the extent to which species are affected appears largely dependent on specific life histories and ecologies. Understanding these relationships is critical to the management of native and invasive species, and the preservation of evolutionary processes that shape biodiversity in this region. In this study we test the direct influence of ocean currents on the genetic structure of a passive disperser across a major biogeographic barrier. Donax deltoides (Veneroida: Donacidae) is an intertidal, soft-sediment mollusc and an ideal surrogate for testing this relationship, given its lack of habitat constraints in this region, and its immense dispersal potential driven by year-long spawning and long-lived planktonic larvae. We assessed allele frequencies at 10 polymorphic microsatellite loci across 11 sample locations spanning the barrier region and identified genetic structure consistent with the major ocean currents of southeastern Australia. Analysis of mitochondrial DNA sequence data indicated no evidence of genetic structuring, but signatures of a species range expansion corresponding with historical inundations of the Bassian Isthmus. Our results indicate that ocean currents are likely to be the most influential factor affecting the genetic structure of D. deltoides and a likely physical barrier for passive dispersing marine fauna generally in southeastern Australia.

A review of long-distance movements by marine turtles, and the possible role of ocean currents

Sea turtle movements often occur in open-sea unsheltered areas, and are therefore likely to be influenced by major oceanographic processes. Only recently has work started to examine the possible relationships of these movements with dynamic oceanic features, and consequently a clear picture of such interaction is only available in a few cases. Newborn sea turtles are thought to rely on oceanic currents to reach their pelagic nursery habitats. The actual extent and timing of these developmental migrations are known for only a few populations, but these movements probably last several years and range over thousands of km. Large juveniles that have been tracked during their pelagic stage were found to make long-distance movements, sometimes swimming against the prevailing currents. Older juveniles of most species leave the pelagic habitat to recruit to neritic developmental habitats. This is a very poorly documented phase of the sea turtle life-cycle, and the few available indications show that turtles may have to swim actively for enormous distances to counterbalance their previous drift with the current. The course and extent of adult postnesting migrations vary greatly among different turtle species, but two main patterns are evident. Some species, like green, hawksbill and loggerhead turtles, shuttle between the nesting beach and a specific feeding area used for the entire inter-reproductive period. In these cases, individuals swim, rather than drift, to complete their journeys, with possible advection due to currents sometimes helping them to quickly reach their target, but sometimes providing navigational challenges. Other species such as the olive ridley and the leatherback turtle, leave the coastal nesting areas to reach the pelagic environment where they forage, and perform wandering movements. Major oceanographic processes (such as main currents and eddies) have been recently shown to have a remarkable influence on leatherback movements, making it questionable whether these journeys are to be considered migrations or, rather, prolonged stays in vast feeding areas.

Influence of ocean currents on long-distance movement of leatherback sea turtles in the Southwest Indian Ocean

Leatherback turtles Dermochelys coriacea spend most of their life in oceanic environments, whose physical and biological characteristics are primarily forged by sea current circulation. Water mass movements can mechanically act on swimming turtles, thus determining their routes, and can differentially distribute their planktonic prey. By integrating satellite tracking data with contemporaneous remote-sensing information, we analysed the post-nesting journeys of 9 leatherbacks with respect to oceanographic surface conditions. Tracked turtles showed large variations in migration routes and in final destinations, apparently without heading for specific foraging areas. Their complex tracks spread over wide regions around South Africa. Leatherbacks were greatly influenced by the currents encountered during their movements, with their trajectories displaying curves or revolutions in the presence of (and in accordance with) rotating water masses. An impressive similarity was observed between large parts of the turtle routes and those of surface drifters tracked in the same regions. Finally, leatherbacks remained associated for long periods with specific oceanographic features, which most probably offered them profitable foraging opportunities. These results agree with previous findings in showing a strong influence of oceanic currents and mesoscale features on the movements of South African leatherbacks, and additionally identify the role of current-related features in causing the observed route variability and in determining high-quality foraging hotspots for leatherbacks moving in the ocean.

A biologist's guide to assessing ocean currents : a review

We review how ocean currents are measured (in both Eulerian and Lagrangian frameworks), how they are inferred from satellite observations, and how they are simulated in ocean general circulation models (OGCMs). We then consider the value of these ‘direct’ (in situ) and ‘indirect’ (inferred, simulated) approaches to biologists investigating current-induced drift of strong-swimming vertebrates as well as dispersion of small organisms in the open ocean. We subsequently describe 2 case studies. In the first, OGCM-simulated currents were compared with satellite-derived currents; analyses suggest that the 2 methods yield similar results, but that each has its own limitations and associated uncertainty. In the second analysis, numerical methods were tested using Lagrangian drifter buoys. Results indicated that currents simulated in OGCMs do not capture all details of buoy trajectories, but do successfully resolve most general aspects of current flows. We thus recommend that the errors and uncertainties in ocean current measurements, as well as limitations in spatial and temporal resolution of the surface current data, need to be considered in tracking studies that incorporate oceanographic data. Whenever possible, cross-validation of the different methods (e.g. indirect estimates versus buoy trajectories) should be undertaken before a decision is reached about which technique is best for a specific application.

Modelling and Simulation of Moored Devices for Ocean Currents Energy Harnessing

The main objective of this paper is the presentation of modelling solutions off loating devices that can be used for harnessing energy from ocean currents. It has been structured into three main parts. First, the growing current interest in marine renewable energy in general, and in extracting energy from currents in particular, is presented, showing the large number of solutions that are emerging and some of the most significant types. GESMEY generator is presented in second section. It is based on a new concept that has been patented by the Universidad Politécnica de Madrid and which is currently being developed through a collaborative agreement with the SOERMAR Foundation. The main feature of this generator is that on operation is fully submerged, and no other facilities are required to move to floating state for maintenance, which greatly increases its performance. Third part of the article is devoted to present the modelling and simulation challenges that arise in the development of devices for harnessing the energy of marine currents, along with some solutions which have been adopted within the frame of the GESMEY Project, making particular emphasis on the dynamics of the generator and its control

Space-time ocean wave measurement using variational stereo vision systems

Remote sensing imaging systems for the measurement of oceanic sea states have recently attracted renovated attention. Imaging technology is economical, non-invasive and enables a better understanding of the space-time dynamics of ocean waves over an area rather than at selected point locations of previous monitoring methods (buoys, wave gauges, etc.). We present recent progress in space-time measurement of ocean waves using stereo vision systems on offshore platforms. Both traditional disparity-based systems and modern elevation-based ones are presented in a variational optimization framework: the main idea is to pose the stereoscopic reconstruction problem of the surface of the ocean in a variational setting and design an energy functional whose minimizer is the desired temporal sequence of wave heights. The functional combines photometric observations as well as spatial and temporal smoothness priors. Disparity methods estimate the disparity between images as an intermediate step toward retrieving the depth of the waves with respect to the cameras, whereas elevation methods estimate the ocean surface displacements directly in 3-D space. Both techniques are used to measure ocean waves from real data collected at offshore platforms in the Black Sea (Crimean Peninsula, Ukraine) and the Northern Adriatic Sea (Venice coast, Italy). Then, the statistical and spectral properties of the resulting observed waves are analyzed. We show the advantages and disadvantages of the presented stereo vision systems and discuss the improvement of their performance in critical issues such as the robustness of the camera calibration in spite of undesired variations of the camera parameters.