A Review of Wave Makers for 3D Numerical Simulations

Numerical methods have enabled the simulation of complex problems in off-shore and marine engineering. A significant challenge in these simulations is the creation of a realistic wave field. A good numerical tank requires wave creation and absorption of waves at various locations. Several numerical wavemakers with these capabilities have been presented in the past. This paper reviews four different wave-maker methods and discusses limitations, computational efficiency, requirements on the mesh and preprocessing and complexity of implementation.

Wave generation by the falling rock in the two-dimensional wave tank

Wave generation by the falling rock in the two-dimensional wave tank is experimentally and numerically studied, where the numerical model utilizes the boundary element method to solve the fully nonlinear potential flow theory. The wave profiles at different times are measured in the laboratory, which are also used to test the numerical model. Comparisons show that the experimental and numerical results are in good agreement, and the numerical model can be used to simulate the wave generation due to the submarine rock falling. Further numerical tests on the influences of the rock size, density, initial position and the falling angle on the wave elevation of the generated waves are performed, respectively. The results show that the size and density of the rock have strong effects on the maximum elevation of the generated wave, while the effects of the initial position and the falling angle of the rock are also significant. When the size or the density of the rock increases, the maximum elevation of the generated wave increases. The same effect on the generated wave would be produced if the initial position of the rock becomes closer to the surface, or the falling angle between the falling route and the vertical direction turns larger. In addition, the present numerical tests reveal that the submarine rock falling provides a new generation method for the breaking wave in the wave tank.

Large wave tank tests of riprap stability /

"May 1975."

Numerical Study of Wave Slamming on an Oscillating Flap

Bottom hinged Oscillating Wave Surge Converters (OWSCs) are efficient devices for extracting power from ocean waves. There is limited knowledge about wave slamming on such devices. This paper deals with numerical studies of wave slamming on an oscillating flap to investigate the mechanism of slamming events. In our model, the Navier–Stokes equations are discretized using the Finite Volume method with the Volume of Fluid (VOF) approach for interface capturing. Waves are generated by a flaptype wave maker in the numerical wave tank, and the dynamic mesh method is applied to model the motion of the oscillating flap. Basic mesh and time step refinement studies are performed. The flow characteristics in a slamming event are analysed based on numerical results. Various simulations with different flap densities, water depths and wave amplitudes are performed for a better understanding of the slamming.

Applications of improved 2-D numerical wave tanks in wave breaking

Song and Banner (2002, henceforth referred to as SB02) used a numerical wave tank (developed by Drimer and Agnon, and further refined by Segre, henceforth referred to as DAS) to study the wave breaking in the deep water, and proposed a dimensionless breaking threshold that based on the behaviour of the wave energy modulation and focusing during the evolution of the wave group. In this paper, two modified DAS models are used to further test the SB02's results, the first one (referred to MDAS1) corrected many integral calculation errors appeared in the DAS code, and the second one (referred to MDAS2) replaced the linear boundary element approximation of DAS into the cubic element on the free surface. Researches show that the results of MDAS1 are the same with those of DAS for the simulations of deep water wave breaking, but, the different values of the wavemaker amplitude, the breaking time and the maximum local average energy growth rate delta(max) for the marginal breaking cases are founded by MDAS2 and MDAS1. However, MDAS2 still satisfies the SB02' s breaking threshold. Furthermore, MDAS1 is utilized to study the marginal breaking case in the intermediate water depth when wave passes over a submerged slope, where the slope is given by 1 : 500, 1 : 300, 1 : 150 or 1 : 100. It is found that the maximum local energy density U increases significantly if the slope becomes steeper, and the delta(max) decreases weakly and increases intensively for the marginal recurrence case and marginal breaking case respectively. SB02's breaking threshold is still valid for the wave passing over a submerged slope gentler than 1 : 100 in the intermediate water depth.

Numerical Simulation of Waves Generated by Seafloor Movements

Waves generated by vertical seafloor movements are simulated by use of a fully nonlinear two-dimensional numerical wave tank. In the source region, the seafloor lifts to a designated height by a generation function. The numerical tests show that file linear theory is only valid for estimating the wave behaviors induced by the seafloor movements with a small amplitude, and the fully nonlinear numerical model should be adopted in the simulation of the wave generation by the large amplitude seafloor movements. Without the background surface waves, many numerical tests on the stable maximum elevations eta(max)(0) are carried out by both the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. The results of two models are compared and analyzed. For the fully nonlinear model, the influences of the amplitudes and the horizontal lengths on eta(max)(0) are stronger than that of the characteristic duration times. Furthermore, results reveal that there are significant differences between the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. When the influences of the background surface waves are considered, the corresponding numerical analyses reveal that with the fully nonlinear model the eta(max)(0) near-linearly varies with the wave amplitudes of the surface waves, and the eta(max)(0) has significant dependences on the wave lengths and the wave phases of the surface waves. In addition, the differences between the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model are still obvious, aid these differences are significantly affected by The wave parameters of the background surface waves, such as the wave amplitude, the wave length and the wave phase.

The hydrodynamics of small seabed mounted bottom hinged wave energy converters in shallow water:PhD thesis

This thesis investigates the hydrodynamics of a small, seabed mounted, bottom hinged, wave energy converter in shallow water. The Oscillating Wave Surge Converter is a pitching flap-type device which is located in 10-15m of water to take advantage of the amplification of horizontal water particle motion in shallow water. A conceptual model of the hydrodynamics of the device has been formulated and shows that, as the motion of the flap is highly constrained, the magnitude of the force applied to the flap by the wave is strongly linked to the power absorption.

An extensive set of experiments has been carried out in the wave tank at Queen’s University at both 40th and 20th scales. The experiments have included testing in realistic sea states to estimate device performance as well as fundamental tests using small amplitude monochromatic waves to determine the force applied to the flap by the waves. The results from the physical modelling programme have been used in conjunction with numerical data from WAMIT to validate the conceptual model.

The work finds that tuning the OWSC to the incident wave periods is problematic and only results in a marginal increase in power capture. It is also found that the addition of larger diameter rounds to the edges of the flap reduces viscous losses and has a greater effect on the performance of the device than tuning. As wave force is the primary driver of device performance it is shown that the flap should fill the water column and should pierce the water surface to reduce losses due to wave overtopping.

With the water depth fixed at approximately 10m it is shown that the width of the flap has the greatest impact on the magnitude of wave force, and thus device performance. An 18m wide flap is shown to have twice the absorption efficiency of a 6m wide flap and captures 6 times the power. However, the increase in power capture with device width is not limitless and a 24m wide flap is found to be affected by two-dimensional hydrodynamics which reduces its performance per unit width, especially in sea states with short periods. It is also shown that as the width increases the performance gains associated with the addition of the end effectors reduces. Furthermore, it is shown that as the flap width increases the natural pitching period of the flap increases, thus detuning the flap further from the wave periods of interest for wave energy conversion.

The effect of waves approaching the flap from an oblique angle is also investigated and the power capture is found to decrease with the cosine squared of the encounter angle. The characteristic of the damping applied by the power take off system is found to have a significant effect on the power capture of the device, with constant damping producing between 20% and 30% less power than quadratic damping. Furthermore, it is found that applying a higher level of damping, or a damping bias, to the flap as it pitches towards the beach increases the power capture by 10%.

A further set of experiments has been undertaken in a case study used to predict the power capture of a prototype of the OWSC concept. The device, called the Oyster Demonstrator, has been developed by Aquamarine Power Ltd. and is to be installed at the European Marine Energy Centre, Scotland, in 2009.

The work concludes that OWSC is a viable wave energy converter and absorption efficiencies of up 75% have been measured. It is found that to maximise power absorption the flap should be approximately 20m wide with large diameter rounded edges, having its pivot close to the seabed and its top edge piercing the water surface.

A control and automation system for wave basins

This paper presents the new active absorption wave basin, named Hydrodynamic Calibrator (HC), constructed at the University of São Paulo (USP), in the Laboratory facilities of the Numerical Offshore Tank (TPN). The square (14 m 14 m) tank is able to generate and absorb waves from 0.5 Hz to 2.0 Hz, by means of 148 active hinged flap wave makers. An independent mechanical system drives each flap by means of a 1HP servo-motor and a ball-screw based transmission system. A customized ultrasonic wave probe is installed in each flap, and is responsible for measuring wave elevation in the flap. A complex automation architecture was implemented, with three Programmable Logic Computers (PLCs), and a low-level software is responsible for all the interlocks and maintenance functions of the tank. Furthermore, all the control algorithms for the generation and absorption are implemented using higher level software (MATLAB /Simulink block diagrams). These algorithms calculate the motions of the wave makers both to generate and absorb the required wave field by taking into account the layout of the flaps and the limits of wave generation. The experimental transfer function that relates the flap amplitude to the wave elevation amplitude is used for the calculation of the motion of each flap. This paper describes the main features of the tank, followed by a detailed presentation of the whole automation system. It includes the measuring devices, signal conditioning, PLC and network architecture, real-time and synchronizing software and motor control loop. Finally, a validation of the whole automation system is presented, by means of the experimental analysis of the transfer function of the waves generated and the calculation of all the delays introduced by the automation system.

INVESTIGATIONS INTO MECHANISMS UNDERLYING EXTREME WAVE FORMATIONS AND COMPUTATIONALLY INTENSIVE SIMULATIONS

Various mechanisms have been proposed to explain extreme waves or rogue waves in an oceanic environment including directional focusing, dispersive focusing, wave-current interaction, and nonlinear modulational instability. The Benjamin-Feir instability (nonlinear modulational instability), however, is considered to be one of the primary mechanisms for rogue-wave occurrence. The nonlinear Schrodinger equation is a well-established approximate model based on the same assumptions as required for the derivation of the Benjamin-Feir theory. Solutions of the nonlinear Schrodinger equation, including new rogue-wave type solutions are presented in the author's dissertation work. The solutions are obtained by using a predictive eigenvalue map based predictor-corrector procedure developed by the author. Features of the predictive map are explored and the influences of certain parameter variations are investigated. The solutions are rescaled to match the length scales of waves generated in a wave tank. Based on the information provided by the map and the details of physical scaling, a framework is developed that can serve as a basis for experimental investigations into a variety of extreme waves as well localizations in wave fields. To derive further fundamental insights into the complexity of extreme wave conditions, Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) simulations are carried out on an advanced Graphic Processing Unit (GPU) based parallel computational platform. Free surface gravity wave simulations have successfully characterized water-wave dispersion in the SPH model while demonstrating extreme energy focusing and wave growth in both linear and nonlinear regimes. A virtual wave tank is simulated wherein wave motions can be excited from either side. Focusing of several wave trains and isolated waves has been simulated. With properly chosen parameters, dispersion effects are observed causing a chirped wave train to focus and exhibit growth. By using the insights derived from the study of the nonlinear Schrodinger equation, modulational instability or self-focusing has been induced in a numerical wave tank and studied through several numerical simulations. Due to the inherent dissipative nature of SPH models, simulating persistent progressive waves can be problematic. This issue has been addressed and an observation-based solution has been provided. The efficacy of SPH in modeling wave focusing can be critical to further our understanding and predicting extreme wave phenomena through simulations. A deeper understanding of the mechanisms underlying extreme energy localization phenomena can help facilitate energy harnessing and serve as a basis to predict and mitigate the impact of energy focusing.

Steps towards fully nonlinear simulations of arrays of OWSC

Abandonment of farming systems on upland areas in southwest Britain during the Late Bronze Age – some 3000 years ago – is widely considered a ‘classic’ demonstration of the impact of deteriorating climate on the vulnerability of populations in such marginal environments. Here we test the hypothesis that climate change drove the abandonment of upland areas by developing new chronologies for human activity on upland areas during the Bronze Age across southwest Britain (Dartmoor, Exmoor and Bodmin Moor). We find Bronze Age activity in these areas spanned 3900–2950 calendar years ago with abandonment by 2900 calendar years ago. Holocene Irish bog and lake oak tree populations provide evidence of major shifts in hydroclimate across western Britain and Ireland, coincident with ice rafted debris layers recognized in North Atlantic marine sediments, indicating significant changes in the latitude and intensity of zonal atmospheric circulation across the region. We observe abandonment of upland areas in southwest Britain coinciding with a sustained period of extreme wet conditions that commenced 3100 calendar years ago. Our results are consistent with the view that climate change increased the vulnerability of these early farming communities and led to a less intensive use of such marginal environments across Britain.

Non-Linear Wave-Induced Transient Response of Soil Around a Trenched Pipeline

Submarine pipelines are always trenched within a seabed for reducing wave loads and thereby enhancing their stability. Based on Biot’s poroelastic theory, a two-dimensional finite element model is developed to investigate non-linear wave-induced responses of soil around a trenched pipeline, which is verified with the flume test results by Sudhan et al. [Sudhan, C.M., Sundar, V., Rao, S.N., 2002. Wave induced forces around buried pipeline. Ocean Engineering, 29, 533–544] and Turcotte et al. [Turcotte, B.R., Liu, P.L.F., Kulhawy, F.H., 1984. Laboratory evaluation of wave tank parameters for wave-sediment interaction. Joseph H. Defree Hydraulic Laboratory Report 84-1, School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University]. Non-linear wave-induced transient pore pressure around pipeline at various phases of wave loading is examined firstly. Unlike most previous investigations, in which only a single sediment layer and linear wave loading were concerned, in this study, the influences of the non-linearity of wave loading, the physical properties of backfill materials and the geometry profile of trenches on the excess pore pressures within the soil around pipeline, respectively, were explored, taking into account the in situ conditions of buried pipeline in the shallow ocean zones. Based on the parametric study, it is concluded that the shear modulus and permeability of backfill soils significantly affect the wave-induced excess pore pressures around trenched pipeline, and that the effect of wave non-linearity becomes more pronounced and comparable with that of trench depth, especially at high wave steepness in shallow water.

Wave uplift pressures on horizontal platforms

The major objective of the study has been to investigate in detail the rapidly-varying peak uplift pressure and the slowly-varying positive and negative uplift pressures that are known to be exerted by waves against the underside of a horizontal pier or platform located above the still water level, but not higher than the crests of the incident waves.

In a "two-dimensional" laboratory study conducted in a 100-ft long by 15-in.-wide by 2-ft-deep wave tank with a horizontal smooth bottom, individually generated solitary waves struck a rigid, fixed, horizontal platform extending the width of the tank. Pressure transducers were mounted flush with the smooth soffit, or underside, of the platform. The location of the transducers could be varied.

The problem of a d equate dynamic and spatial response of the transducers was investigated in detail. It was found that unless the radius of the sensitive area of a pressure transducer is smaller than about one-third of the characteristic width of the pressure distribution, the peak pressure and the rise-time will not be recorded accurately. A procedure was devised to correct peak pressures and rise-times for this transducer defect.

The hydrodynamics of the flow beneath the platform are described qualitatively by a si1nple analysis, which relates peak pressure and positive slowly-varying pressure to the celerity of the wave front propagating beneath the platform, and relates negative slowly-varying pressure to the process by which fluid recedes from the platform after the wave has passed. As the wave front propagates beneath the platform, its celerity increases to a maximum, then decreases. The peak pressure similarly increases with distance from the seaward edge of the platform, then decreases.

Measured peak pressure head, always found to be less than five times the incident wave height above still water level, is an order of magnitude less than reported shock pressures due to waves breaking against vertical walls; the product of peak pressure and rise-time, considered as peak impulse, is of the order of 20% of reported shock impulse due to waves breaking against vertical walls. The maximum measured slowly-varying uplift pressure head is approximately equal to the incident wave height less the soffit clearance above still water level. The normalized magnitude and duration of negative pressure appears to depend principally on the ratio of soffit clearance to still water depth and on the ratio of platform length to still water depth.

The cost of water from an autonomous wave-powered desalination plant

A techno-economic model of an autonomous wave-powered desalination plant is developed and indicates that fresh water can be produced for as little as £0.45/m3. The advantages of an autonomous wave-powered desalination plant are also discussed indicating that the real value of the system is enhanced due to its flexibility for deployment and reduced environmental impact. The modelled plant consists of the Oyster wave energy converter, conventional reverse osmosis membranes and a pressure exchanger–intensifier for energy recovery. A time-domain model of the plant is produced using wave-tank experimentation to calibrate the model of Oyster, manufacturer's data for the model of the reverse osmosis membranes and a hydraulic model of the pressure exchanger–intensifier. The economic model of the plant uses best-estimate cost data which are reduced to annualised costs to facilitate the calculation of the cost of water. Finally, the barriers to the deployment of this technology are discussed, but they are not considered insurmountable.

Wave loads on the foundation of a bottom-hinged modular flap structure

Large loads result in expensive foundations which are a substantial proportion of the capital cost of flap-type Wave Energy Converters (WECs). Devices such as Oyster 800, currently deployed at the European Marine Energy Centre (EMEC), comprise a single flap for the full width of the machine. Splitting a flap-type device into smaller vertical flap modules, to make a ‘modular-flap’, might reduce the total foundation loads, whilst still providing acceptable performance in terms of energy conversion.
This paper investigates the foundation loads of an undamped modular-flap device, comparing them to those for a rigid flap of an equivalent width. Physical modelling in a wave tank is used, with loads recorded using a six degree of freedom (DoF) load cell. Both fatigue and extreme loading analysis was conducted. The rotations of the flaps were also recorded, using a motion-tracking system.