954 resultados para Macro-tidal Beaches


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Field studies were carried out on the water and sediment dynamics in the tropical, macro-tidal, Daly Estuary. The estuary is shallow, very-turbid, about 100 km long, and the entrance is funnel-shape. In the wet, high flow season, normal tidal ranges can be suppressed in the estuary, depending on inflow rates, and freshwater becomes dominant up to the mouth. At that time a fraction of the fine sediment load is exported offshore as a bottom-tagging nepheloid layer after the sediment falls out of suspension of the thin, near-surface, river plume. The remaining fraction and the riverine coarse sediment form a large sediment bar 10 km long, up to 6 m in height and extending across the whole width of the channel near the mouth. This bar, as well as shoals in the estuary, partially pond the mid- to upper-estuary. This bar builds up from the deposition of riverine sediment during a wet season with high runoff and can raise mean water level by up to 2 m in the upper estuary in the low flow season. This ponding effect takes about three successive dry years to disappear by the sediment forming the bar being redistributed all over the estuary by tidal pumping of fine and coarse sediment in the dry season, which is the low flow season. The swift reversal of the tidal currents from ebb to flood results in macro-turbulence that lasts about 20 min. Bed load transport is preferentially landward and occurs only for water currents greater than 0.6 m s(-1). This high value of the threshold velocity suggests that the sand may be cemented by the mud. The Daly Estuary thus is a leaky sediment trap with an efficiency varying both seasonally and inter-annually. (c) 2006 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

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Sind in einem Sediment, das unter dem Einfluß einer Strömung abgelagert wurde, richtungsanzeigende Indikatoren vorhanden, so werden sie je nach den momentanen Bedingungen, die zur Zeit der Sedimentation herrschten, ein mehr oder weniger gutes Abbild der Strömungsverhältnisse liefern. Zahlreich sind Strömungsanzeiger organischen Ursprungs, wie z. B. Molluskenschalen u. a. Doch auch anorganische Partikel in Psephiten und Psammiten lassen häufig in ihrer Lagerung eine Abhängigkeit von der Strömungsrichtung erkennen: sie sind "geregelt". Die Autoren der verschiedenen Arbeiten, in denen Regelungen in klastischen Sedimenten untersucht wurden, gingen von der Tatsache aus, daß viele Sedimentpartikel statistisch gesehen keine Kugelform, sondern eine längliche Gestalt besitzen. Die langen Achsen dieser länglich geformten Sedimentkörner werden im folgenden als "Langachsen" bezeichnet. In Sanden sind es vor allem Quarzkörner von annähernd zylindrischer oder ellipsoidischer Form ("Langquarze"), die geeignet sind, durch die Lage ihrer Langachsen strömungsbedingte Regelungen anzuzeigen. Mit der Orientierung solcher Langquarze in marinen und fluviatilen Sanden haben sich bisher vorwiegend amerikanische Autoren befaßt. So untersuchten z. B. Dapples & Rominger (1945) die Sandsohle eines künstlichen Gerinnes. Sie stellten fest, daß die Hauptorientierungsrichtung der Langquarze mit der Strömungsrichtung des fließenden Wassers zusammenfiel. Dabei zeigte das spitze Ende tropfenförmiger ("polarer") Quarze stromab und das stumpfe Ende stromauf. Nanz (1955) maß die Langachsenrichtungen von Langquarzen in Sanden des nassen und trockenen Strandes von Texas und Florida und fand, daß sich diese Achsen vorwiegend parallel zur Auf- und Ablaufrichtung der Wellen und damit senkrecht zum Streichen der Strandlinie einregeln. Curray (1956 b) beobachtete die gleiche Regelung. Er wies ferner darauf hin, daß in Strandwällen und Strandhaken die bevorzugte Richtung der Langquarze senkrecht zum Streichen des Sedimentkörpers liegt. Zahlreiche weitere Autoren beschäftigten sich ebenfalls mit den Fragen der Langquarzregelung, so Schwarzacher (1951), Griffith & Rosenfeld (1953), Vollbrecht (1953), Rusnak (1956), Wendler (1956), Sriramadas (1957). Ganz allgemein war das Ergebnis aller dieser Untersuchungen, daß die aus einer Strömung abgelagerten Langquarze eine Regelung parallel zur Strömungsrichtung zeigen. Eigene Untersuchungen und Überlegungen ergaben, daß die bisher veröffentlichten Ergebnisse und die an sie angeschlossenen Vorstellungen z. T. bestätigt werden können, jedoch z. T. auch erheblich modifiziert werden müssen.

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Large groundwater table fluctuations were observed in a coastal aquifer during an offshore storm. The storm induced significant changes of the mean shoreline elevation, characterized by a pulse-like oscillation. This pulse propagated in the aquifer, resulting in the water table fluctuations. A general analytical solution is derived to quantify this new mechanism of water table fluctuation. The solution is applied to field observations and is found to be able to predict reasonably well the observed storm-induced water table fluctuations. Based on the analytical solution, the damping characteristics and phase shift of the oscillation as it propagates inland are examined.

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O estudo da ecologia alimentar de peixes é uma abordagem consistente na avaliação dos processos interativos dentro das comunidades. Dessa forma, este trabalho teve como objetivo investigar a ecologia alimentar do bacu-pedra Lithodoras dorsalis em furos próximos no delta do estuário Amazônico (Brasil), uma área sobre influência de macro-marés, em diferentes períodos pluviométricos. Durante 12 meses de coletas (julho de 2010 a junho de 2011), foram coligidos 371 espécimes jovens, sendo que a dieta da espécie foi composta por 28 itens alimentares analisados pelos seguintes índices: Índice de Repleção Estomacal, Índice de Importância Alimentar e Amplitude de Nicho. Lithodoras dorsalis quando jovem foi classificada como herbívora com tendência à frugivoria, devido aos altos valores de importância de frutos e sementes em sua dieta. A intensidade de obtenção de alimento por L. dorsalis diferiu entre os meses de coleta, onde o final do período de transição chuva-estiagem e o início da estiagem foram os períodos de menor e maior atividade alimentar, respectivamente. Também houve diferença na importância alimentar dos itens entre os períodos pluviométricos. Estes resultados fornecem informações importantes sobre a ecologia alimentar de doradídeos na Amazônia. Além disso, percebeu-se o alto consumo de material alóctone pelo bacu-pedra, sendo estes itens alimentares provenientes da floresta ripária, o que reforça a importância deste ambiente para a conservação da ictiofauna neotropical.

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Measurements in the macro-tidal Daly Estuary show that the presence of an undular tidal bore contributed negligibly to the dissipation of tidal energy. No recirculation bubble was observed between a trough and the following wave crest in the lee waves following the undular bore. This differs to stationary undular bores in laboratory experiments at larger Froude numbers where a recirculation bubble exists. Secondary motions and the turbulence generated by the undular bore had no measurable influence on the sediment transport. This situation contrasts with the intense sediment resuspension observed in breaking tidal bores. The tidally averaged sediment budget in the Daly Estuary was controlled by the asymmetry of tidal currents. The undular bore may widen the river by breaking along the banks that it undercuts, leading to bank slippage. A patch of river-wide macro-turbulence of 3-min duration occurred about 20 min after the passage of the bore during accelerating tidal currents. (C) 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

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Wave energy converters are currently proposed to be deployed near coastal area for the closeness to the infrastructure and for ease of maintenance in order to reduce operational costs. The motivation behind this work is the fact that the deployment depths during the highest and lowest tides will have a significant effect on the mooring system of WECs. In this paper, the issue will be investigated by numerical modelling (using ANSYS AQWA) for both catenary and taut moorings to examine the performance of the mooring system in varying tides. The case study being considered is the ¼- scale wave energy test site in Galway Bay off the west coast of Ireland where some marine renewable energy devices can be tested. In this test site, the tidal range is macro-tidal with a range of approximately 6 m which is a large value relative to the water depth. In the numerical analysis, ANSYS AQWA suite has been used to simulate moored devices under wave excitation at varying tidal ranges. Results show that the highest tide will give rise to larger forces. While at lower depths, slackening of the mooring occurs. Therefore, the mooring lines must be designed to accommodate both situations.

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Appropriate field data are required to check the reliability of hydrodynamic models simulating the dispersion of soluble substances in the marine environment. This study deals with the collection of physical measurements and soluble tracer data intended specifically for this kind of validation. The intensity of currents as well as the complexity of topography and tides around the Cap de La Hague in the center of the English Channel makes it one of the most difficult areas to represent in terms of hydrodynamics and dispersion. Controlled releases of tritium - in the form of HTO - are carried out in this area by the AREVA-NC plant, providing an excellent soluble tracer. A total of 14 493 measurements were acquired to track dispersion in the hours and days following a release. These data, supplementing previously gathered data and physical measurements (bathymetry, water-surface levels, Eulerian and Lagrangian current studies) allow us to test dispersion models from the hour following release to periods of several years which are not accessible with dye experiments. The dispersion characteristics are described and methods are proposed for comparing models against measurements. An application is proposed for a 2 dimensions high-resolution numerical model. It shows how an extensive dataset can be used to build, calibrate and validate several aspects of the model in a highly dynamic and macrotidal area: tidal cycle timing, tidal amplitude, fixed-point current data, hodographs. This study presents results concerning the model's ability to reproduce residual Lagrangian currents, along with a comparison between simulation and high-frequency measurements of tracer dispersion. Physical and tracer data are available from the SISMER database of IFREMER (www.ifremer.fr/sismer/catal). This tool for validation of models in macro-tidal seas is intended to be an open and evolving resource, which could provide a benchmark for dispersion model validation.