"Her lively Looks a sprightly Mind disclose, Quick as her Eyes, and as unfix'd as those." - looking, fashion media, and risk culture

This chapter investigates the phenomenon of fashion from the perspective of ‘the look.’ This is achieved by the wearer (as opposed to the designer) and also forms the basis of fashion media, where it represents the ‘decisive moment’ of photography. The chapter argues that the evolving ‘look’ of fashion can be analysed to identify tensions between novelty and emulation, the unique and the universal, in contemporary consumer culture and status-based social-network markets. It explores the work of fashion photographer Corinne Day and artist Olga Tobreluts to identify the theme of ‘risk culture.’

‘We would have saved her life’ : mobile telephony in an island village in Papua New Guinea

As a new communication technology expands in a disadvantaged, rural area of a developing country, changes take place in the lives of the people in the area. The paper examines the introduction of mobile telephony into a rural village in Papua New Guinea, and contains findings from field research conducted in February 2009. The analysis is undertaken through a social lens, providing an understanding of the roles of mobile phones in this community by foregrounding the feelings, thoughts and attitudes expressed by the village people. This in turn enables a deeper understanding of the sociological effects related to the uptake of mobile telephony.

It's just an old apron : aprons, artefacts and art - representations of personal and private 'her-stories', as public histories

This paper examines art and artefact in the representation and recollection of deeply personal WWII women’s experiences as POW’s under the Japanese. This kind of treatment of internees in the Tjideng Women and Children’s internment camp (and others) in Batavia under the Japanese in WWII, stands in stark and brutal contrast to the idyllic life lived by many families up to that time in what was then known as the Dutch East Indies (Indonesia). The deprivation and brutality of the Japanese incarceration of these women and children evoked responses - not military, but certainly militant, if muted. Representations of those responses – as both art and artefact - may be found in the most unlikely places and unexpected forms - and are still being unearthed to this day. However close we might personally be to these artists and artisans, can we, as observers from a distance, ever truly comprehend through spoken or written words alone, the day-today realities of those extraordinary times?

Martha and her sisters : women in films about journalism

HBO's Hemingway and Gellhorn (Philip Kaufman, 2012), broadcast in May on US television and starring Nicole Kidman as the pioneering female foreign correspondent, hasn't been well reviewed by the majority of critics. Variety described the biopic (with Clive Owen as Hemingway) as “swollen and heavy-handed”, while the Huffington Post declared it an “expensive misfire … a gigantic missed opportunity, a jaw-droppingly trying waste of time”. Regardless of whether such criticisms are fair—as this essay went to press I had been unable to see the film, so I cannot judge one way or the other—Hemingway and Gellhorn should be viewed as a significant addition to the filmography of journalism, retrieving from history as it does the achievements of one of the most significant of the early female practitioners. Gellhorn was a pioneer in a patriarchal press universe, a foreign and war correspondent at a time when this branch of the profession was seen very much as man's work. She covered the Spanish Civil War and the Second World War, and with just as much viscerality as any man.

'You can name her' : ritualised grieving by an Australian woman for her stillborn twin

The stillbirth of an Australian infant in the mid-20th Century was an event often left unacknowledged. Mothers of stillborn babies were often told to 'forget about it and have another baby.' Siblings of these babies were often not encouraged to discuss them, and were even left unaware of their birth and death. This paper explores this phenomenon in an Australian case study. When Nancy was born in 1937, her twin sister was stillborn. As was customary at that time, the deceased baby was buried unnamed in an unmarked plot without ceremony. Little was said of her thereafter. Seventy-three years later, Nancy finally undertook a number of activities with ritualised features that acknowledged, named, mourned and honoured her sister.

Multiplexed tandem polymerase chain reaction identifies strong expression of oestrogen receptor and Her-2 from single, formalin-fixed, paraffin-embedded breast cancer sections

Aim To establish the suitability of multiplex tandem polymerase chain reaction (MT-PCR) for rapid identification of oestrogen receptor (ER) and Her-2 status using a single, formalin-fixed, paraffin-embedded (FFPE) breast tumour section. Methods Tissue sections from 29 breast tumours were analysed by immunohistochemistry (IHC) and fluorescence in situ hybridisation (FISH). RNA extracted from 10μm FFPE breast tumour sections from 24 of 29 tumours (14 ER positive and 5 Her-2 positive) was analysed by MT-PCR. After establishing a correlation between IHC and/or FISH and MT-PCR results, the ER/Her-2 status of a further 32 randomly selected, archival breast tumour specimens was established by MT-PCR in a blinded fashion, and compared to IHC/FISH results. Results MT-PCR levels of ER and Her-2 showed good concordance with IHC and FISH results. Furthermore, among the ER positive tumours, MT-PCR provided a quantitative score with a high dynamic range. Threshold values obtained from this data set applied to 32 archival tumour specimens showed that tumours strongly positive for ER and/or Her-2 expression were easily identified by MT-PCR. Conclusion MT-PCR can provide rapid, sensitive and cost-effective analysis of FFPE material and may prove useful as triage to identify patients suited to endocrine or trastuzumab (Herceptin) treatment.

Maternal concern about her toddler undereating and becoming underweight and use of feeding practices - analysis of the NOURISH and SAIDI cohorts using structural equation modeling

The chubby baby who eats well is desirable in our culture. Perceived low weight gains and feeding concerns are common reasons mothers seek advice in the early years. In contrast, childhood obesity is a global public health concern. Use of coercive feeding practices, prompted by maternal concern about weight, may disrupt a child’s innate self regulation of energy intake, promoting overeating and overweight. This study describes predictors of maternal concern about her child undereating/becoming underweight and feeding practices. Mothers in the control group of the NOURISH and South Australian Infants Dietary Intake studies (n = 332) completed a self-administered questionnaire when the child was aged 12–16 months. Weight-for-age z-score (WAZ)was derived from weight measured by study staff. Mean age (SD) was 13.8 (1.3) months, mean WAZ (SD), 0.58 (0.86) and 49% were male. WAZ and two questions describing food refusal were combined in a structural equation model with four items from the Infant feeding Questionnaire (IFQ) to form the factor ‘Concern about undereating/weight’. Structural relationships were drawn between concern and IFQ factors ‘awareness of infant’s hunger and satiety cues’, ‘use of food to calm infant’s fussiness’ and ‘feeding infant on a schedule’, resulting in a model of acceptable fit. Lower WAZ and higher frequency of food refusal predicted higher maternal concern. Higher maternal concern was associated with lower awareness of infant cues (r = −.17, p = .01) and greater use of food to calm (r = .13, p = .03). In a cohort of healthy children, maternal concern about undereating and underweight was associated with practices that have the potential to disrupt self-regulation.

Elizabeth Engel nee Benjamin-Rasmussen in her home; Silver Springs, Maryland Portraits Women

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Elizabeth Engel nee Benjamin-Rasmussen with her daughter Dorel Hall nee Engel in Elizabeth's home; Silver Springs, Maryland Portraits Family

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Outdoor portrait of Ellen Bernkopf nee Catzenstein with her husband Hans Bernkopf; Paris, France. Portraits Couples

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Therese Godshaw (Gottschalk) nee Molling holding her great-grandson, Richard Godshaw; Buffalo, New York.

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Ilse Goldschmidt nee Molling with her sons Ernest and Frank Goldschhmidt on her 80th birthday; Laguna Hills, California.

Left to Right: Ernest Goldschmidt, Ilse Goldschmidt born Molling, and Frank Goldschmidt. The picture was taken on the occasion of Ilse's 80th birthday party 22 Dec 1989 Laguna Hills, CA.

Paula Wallerstein nee Molling holding her grandson Hans Stern.

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Portrait of Sophie Gottschalk sitting in a chair with a book in her hands; Burgdorf, Germany.

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