Efficient advertising strategies for the fragrance market

A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics

External brand extensions impact on Diesel's brand image

A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics

Technical optimization of the synthesis of flavours

The goal of this thesis is the investigation and optimization of the synthesis of potential fragrances. This work is projected as collaboration between the University of Applied Sciences in Merseburg and the company Miltitz Aromatics GmbH in Bitterfeld‐Wolfen (Germany). Flavoured compounds can be synthesized in different ways and by various methods. In this work, methods like the phase transfer catalysis and the Cope‐rearrangement were investigated and applied, for getting a high yield and quantity of the desired substances and without any by‐products or side reactions. This involved the study of syntheses with different process parameters such as temperature, solvent, pressure and reaction time. The main focus was on Cope‐rearrangement, which is a common method in the synthesis of new potential fragrance compounds. The substances synthesized in this work have a hepta‐1,5‐diene‐structure and that is why they can easily undergo this [3,3]‐sigma tropic rearrangement. The lead compound of all research was 2,5‐dimethyl‐2‐vinyl‐4‐hexenenitrile (Neronil). Neronil is synthesized by an alkylation of 2‐methyl‐3‐butenenitrile with prenylchloride under basic conditions in a phase‐transfer system. In this work the yield of isolated Neronil is improved from about 35% to 46% by according to the execution conditions of the reaction. Additionally the amount of side product was decreased. This synthesized hexenenitrile involved not only the aforementioned 1,5‐diene‐structure, but also a cyano group, that makes this structure a suitable base for the synthesis of new potential fragrance compounds. It was observed that Neronil can be transferred into 2,5‐dimethyl‐2‐vinyl‐4‐hexenoic acid by a hydrolysis under basic conditions. After five hours the acid can be obtained with a yield of 96%. The following esterification is realized with isobutanol to produce 2,5‐dimethyl‐2‐vinyl‐4‐hexenoic acid isobutyl ester with quantitative conversion. It was observed that the Neronil and the corresponding ester can be converted into the corresponding Cope‐product, with a conversion of 30 % and 80%. Implementing the Cope‐rearrangement, the acid was heated and an unexpected decarboxylated product is formed. To achieve the best verification of reaction development and structure, scrupulous analyses were done using GC‐MS, 1H‐NMR and 13C‐ NMR.

The consumption of beauty products on famale young adults in Portugal. Recommenrations for the brand Lancôme to improve its store trafic

This project aims to explore the Portuguese Beauty and Cosmetics market, and to discuss the usage and purchase behaviour of young female adults, between 18 and 26 years old. After a market analysis based on secondary data, it evaluates the results of qualitative and quantitative research based on 9 interviews and 126 online questionnaires to explore the consumers’ reasoning when choosing products from this category – fragrances, skin care or make-up – as well as their attitude towards brands, with a special focus on the premium cosmetics brand Lancôme. Contrary to our expectations there was no statistically significant positive influence of the online touchpoints within this age segment’s purchase intention. However, results indicate that Lancôme is already being perceived by some as young and modern, but is still suffering the threat of Mass Market brands that are valued by this target, mainly due to a price sensitivity towards premium beauty brands.

Effect of Citrus floral extracts on the foraging behavior of the stingless bee Scaptotrigona pectoralis (Dalla Torre)

Effect of Citrus floral extracts on the foraging behavior of the stingless bee Scaptotrigona pectoralis (Dalla Torre). Stingless bees have an important role as pollinators of many wild and cultivated plant species in tropical regions. Little is known, however, about the interaction between floral fragrances and the foraging behavior of meliponine species. Thus we investigated the chemical composition of the extracts of citric (lemon and orange) flowers and their effects on the foraging behavior of the stingless bee Scaptotrigona pectoralis. We found that each type of flower has its own specific blend of major compounds: limonene (62.9%) for lemon flowers, and farnesol (26.5%), (E)-nerolidol (20.8%), and linalool (12.7%) for orange flowers. In the foraging experiments the S. pectoralis workers were able to use the flower extracts to orient to the food source, overlooking plates baited with hexane only. However, orange flower extracts were seemingly more attractive to these worker bees, maybe because of the particular blend present in it. Our results reveal that these fragrances are very attractive to S. pectoralis, so we can infer that within citric orchards they could be important visitors in the study area; however habitat destruction, overuse of pesticides and the competitive override by managed honeybees might have put at risk their populations and thus the ecological services they provide to us.

Hazardous substances in frequently used professional cleaning products.

A growing number of studies have identified cleaners as a group at risk for adverse health effects of the skin and the respiratory tract. Chemical substances present in cleaning products could be responsible for these effects. Currently, only limited information is available about irritant and health hazardous chemical substances found in cleaning products. We hypothesized that chemical substances present in cleaning products are known health hazardous substances that might be involved in adverse health effects of the skin and the respiratory tract. We performed a systematic review of cleaning products used in the Swiss cleaning sector. We surveyed Swiss professional cleaning companies (n = 1476) to identify the most used products (n = 105) for inclusion. Safety data sheets (SDSs) were reviewed and hazardous substances present in cleaning products were tabulated with current European and global harmonized system hazard labels. Professional cleaning products are mixtures of substances (arithmetic mean 3.5 +/- 2.8), and more than 132 different chemical substances were identified in 105 products. The main groups of chemicals were fragrances, glycol ethers, surfactants, solvents; and to a lesser extent, phosphates, salts, detergents, pH-stabilizers, acids, and bases. Up to 75% of products contained irritant (Xi), 64% harmful (Xn) and 28% corrosive (C) labeled substances. Hazards for eyes (59%) and skin (50%), and hazards by ingestion (60%) were the most reported. Cleaning products potentially give rise to simultaneous exposures to different chemical substances. As professional cleaners represent a large workforce, and cleaning products are widely used, it is a major public health issue to better understand these exposures. The list of substances provided in this study contains important information for future occupational exposure assessment studies.

Observations on fragrance collection behaviour of euglossine bees (Hymenoptera, Apidae)

Male bees of the tribe Euglossini collect volatile chemicals secreted by orchids using dense patches of hair on the front tarsi. After collecting chemicals, the bee hovers while transferring these fragrances to invaginations on the hind tibiae. The fragrance collection and hovering behaviours are repeated multiple times. Here I report preliminary field observations on the length of fragrance collection and hovering phases in bees of the Eulaema meriana (Oliver, 1789) mimicry complex visiting the orchid Catasetum discolor in Kavanayén,Venezuela. I observed that in extended visits with many cycles of fragrance collection and hovering, the length of each collection phase gradually increased, while the length of hovering phase was static. This suggests either that chemicals secreted by orchids are in limited supply or that efficiency of fragrance collection drops.

Pollution stress on aquatic microbial communities

Thousands of chemical compounds enter the natural environment but many have unknown effects and consequences, in particular at low concentrations. This thesis work contributes to our understanding of pollution effects by using bacteria as test organisms. Bacteria are important for this question because some of them degrade and transform pollutants into less harmful compounds, but secondly because they themselves can be inhibited in their reproduction by exposure to toxic compounds. When inhibitory effects occur this may change the composition of the microbial com¬munity in the long run, leading to altered or diminished ecosystem services by those communities. As a result chemicals of anthropogenic origin may accumulate and per¬sist in the environment, and finally, affect higher organisms as well. In addition to acquiring basic understanding of pollutant effects at low concentrations on bacterial communities an applied goal of this thesis work was to develop bacteria-based tests to screen new organic chemicals for toxicity and biodégradation. In the first part of this work we developed a flow cytometry-based assay on SYT09 plus ethidium-bromide or propidium-iodide stained cells of Pseudomonas ûuorescens exposed or not to a variety of pollutants under oligotrophic growth conditions. Flow cytometry (FC) allows fast and accurate counting of bacterial cells under simul¬taneous assessment of their physiological state, in particular in combination with different fluorescent dyes. Here we employed FC and fluorescent dyes to monitor the effect that pollutants may exert on Pseudomonas ûuorescens SV3. First we designed an oligotrophic growth test, which enabled us to follow population growth at low densities (104 - 10 7 cells per ml) using 0.1 mM sodium acetate as carbon source. Cells in the oligotrophic milieu were then exposed or not to a variety of common pollutants, such as 2-chlorobiphenyl (2CBP), naphthalene (NAH), 4-chlorophenol (4CP), tetradecane (TD), mercury chloride (HgCl2) or benzene, in different dosages. Exposed culture samples were stained with SYT09 (green fluorescent dye binding nucleic acids, generally staining all cells) in combination with propidium iodide (PI) or ethidium bromide (EB), both dyes being membrane integrity indicators. We ob- served that most of the tested compounds decreased population growth in a dosage- dependent manner. SYT09/PI or SYT09/EB staining then revealed that chemical exposure led to arisal of subpopulations of live and injured or dead cells. By modeling population growth on the total cell numbers in population or only the subpopulation of live cells we inferred that even in stressed populations live cells multiply at rates no different to unexposed controls. The net decrease in population growth would thus be a consequence of more and more cells being not able to multiply at all, rather than all cells multiplying at slower rates. In addition, the proportion of injured cells correlated to the compound dosage. We concluded that the oligotrophic test may be useful to asses toxicity of unknown chemicals on a variety of model bacteria. Mul¬tiple tests can be run in parallel and effects are rapidly measured within a period of 8 hours. Interestingly, in the same exposure tests with P. fluorescens SV3 we observed that some chemicals which did not lead to a reduction of net population growth rates did cause measurable effects on live cells. This was mainly observed in cells within the live subpopulation as an increase of the EB fluorescence signal. We showed that SYT09/EB is a more useful combination of dyes than SYT09/PI because PI fluorescence tend to increase only when cells are effectively dead, but not so much in live cells (less then twofold). In contrast, EB geometric mean fluorescence in live cells increased up to eightfold after exposure to toxic compounds. All compounds even at the lowest concentration caused a measurable increase in EB geometric mean fluorescence especially after 2 h incubation time. This effect was found to be transient for cells exposed to 2CBP and 4CP, but chronic for cells incubated with TD and NAH (ultimately leading to cell death). In order to understand the mechanism underlying the observed effects we used known membrane or energy uncouplers. The pattern of EB signal increase in chemical-exposed populations resembled mostly that of EDTA, although EB fluorescence in EDTA-treated or pasteurized cells was even higher than after exposure to the four test chemicals. We conclude that the ability of cells to efflux EB under equilibrium conditions is an appropriate measure for the potential of a chemical to exert toxicity. Since most bacterial species possess efflux systems for EB that all require cellular energy, our test should be more widely relevant to infer toxicity effects of chemical exposure on the physiological status of the bacterial cell. To better understand the effect of toxicant exposure on efflux defense systems, we studied 2-hydroxybiphenyl toxicity to Pseudomonas azeiaica HBP1. We showed that 2-HBP exerts toxicity even to P. azelaica HBP1, but only at concentrations higher than 0.5 mM. Above this concentration transient loss of membrane polarization and integrity occurred, which we conclude from staining of growing cells with fluorescent dyes. Cells finally recover and resume growth on 2HBP. The high resistance of P. azelaica HBP1 to 2-HBP was found to be the result of an efficient MexABOprM- type efflux pump system counteracting passive influx of this compound into the membrane and cellular interior. Mutants with disrupted mexA, mexB and oprM genes did no longer grow on 2-HBP at concentrations above 100 μΜ, whereas below this concentration we found 2-HBP-concentration dependent decrease of growth rate. The MexAB-OprM system in P. azeiaica HBP1 is indeed an efflux pump for ethidium bromide as well. By introducing gfp reporter fusions responsive to intracellular 2- HBP concentrations into HBP1 wild-type or the mutants we demonstrated that 2HBP enters into the cells in a similar way. In contrast, the reporter system in the wild-type cells does not react to 2-HBP at an outside concentration of 2.4 μΜ, whereas in mutant cells it does. This suggests that wild-type cells pump 2-HBP to the outside very effectively preventing accumulation of 2-HBP. 2HBP metabolism, therefore, is not efficient enough to lower the intracellular concentration and prevent toxicity. We conclude that P. azelaica HBP1 resistance to 2-HBP is mainly due to an efficient efflux system and that 2HBP in high concentrations exerts narcotic effects on the bacterial membrane. In the part of this thesis, we investigated the possibilities of bacteria to degrade pollutants at low concentrations (1 mg per L and below). As test components we used 2-hydroxybiphenyl, antibiotics and a variety of fragrances, many of which are known to be difficult to biodegrade. By using accurate counting of low numbers of bacterial cells we could demonstrate that specific growth on these compounds is possible. We demonstrated the accuracy of FC counting at low cell numbers (down to 103 bacterial cells per ml). Then we tested whether bacterial population growth could be specifically monitored at the expense of low substrate concentrations, us¬ing P. azelaica HBP1. A perfect relationship was found between growth rate, yield and 2-HBP concentrations in the range of 0.1 up to 5 mg per L. Mixing P. azelaica within sludge, however, suggested that growth yields in a mixed community can be much lower than in pure culture, perhaps because of loss of metabolic intermediates. We then isolated new strains from activated sludge using 2-HBP or antibiotics (Nal, AMP, SMX) at low concentrations (0.1-1 mg per L) as sole carbon and energy sub¬strate and PAO microdishes. The purified strains were then examined for growth on their respective substrate, which interestingly, showed that all strains can not with¬stand higher than 1 or 10 mg per L concentrations of target substrate. Thus, bacteria must exist that contribute to compound degradation at low pollutant concentrations but are inhibited at higher concentrations. Finally we tested whether specific biomass growth (in number of cells) at the expense of pollutants can also be detected with communities as starting material. Hereto, we focused on a number of fragrance chemicals and measured community biomass increase by flow cytometry cell counting on two distinct starter communities: (i) diluted Lake Geneva water, and dilute activated sludge from a wastewater treatment plant. We observed that most of the test compounds indeed resulted in significant biomass increase in the starter community compared to a no-carbon added control, but activated sludge and lake Geneva water strongly differed (almost mutually ex¬clusive) in their capacity to degrade the test chemicals. In two cases for activated sludge the same type of microbial community developed upon compound exposure, as concluded from transcription fragment length polymorphism analysis on community purified and PCR amplified 16S rRNA gene fragments. To properly test compound biodegradability it is thus important to use starter communities of different origin. We conclude that FC counting can be a valuable tool to screen chemicals for their biodegradability and toxicity. - Des milliers de produits chimiques sont libérés dans l'environnement mais beaucoup ont des effets inconnus, en particulier à basses concentrations. Ce travail de thèse contribue à notre comprehension des effets de la pollution en utilisant des bacteries comme des organismes-tests. Les bacteries sont importantes pour etudier cette ques¬tion car certaines d'entre elles peuvent degrader ou transformer les polluants, mais également parce qu'elles-mmes peuvent tre inhibees dans leur reproduction après avoit ete exposees à ces composes toxiques. Quand des effets inhibiteurs ont lieu, la composition de la communauté microbienne peut tre changee à long terme, ce qui mène à une reduction du service d'ecosystème offert par ces communautés. En consequence, après leur liberation dans l'environnement, les produits chimiques d'origine anthropogenique peuvent soit s'y accumuler et per¬sister, exerant ainsi des effets encore inconnus sur les organismes vivants. En plus d'acquérir des connaissances de base sur les effets des polluants à basses concentra¬tions sur les communautés microbiennes, un but applique de cette thèse était de développer des tests bases sur les bacteries afin d'identifier de nouveau composes pour leur toxicité ou leur biodégradation. Dans la première partie de ce travail, nous avons developpe un test base sur la cytometrie de flux (FC) sur des cellules de Pseudomonas fluorescens colorees par du bromure d'ethidium ou de l'iodure de propidium et exposees ou non à une palette de polluants sous des conditions de croissance oligotrophique. La cytometrie de flux est une technique qui connaît de nombreuses applications dans la microbiologie environ¬nementale. Cela est principalement du au fait qu'elle permet un comptage rapide et precis ainsi que l'évaluation de l'état physiologique, en particulier lorsqu'elle est combinée h des colorations fluorescentes. Ici, nous avons utilise la technique FC et des colorants fluorescents afin de mesurer l'effet que peuvent exercer certains pollu¬ants sur Pseudomonas ûuorescens SV3 . D'abord nous avons conu des tests oligo- trophiques qui nous permettent de suivre la croissance complète de cellules en culture h des densites faibles (104 -10 7 cellules par ml), sur de l'acetate de sodium à 0.1 mM, en presence ou absence de produits chimiques (2-chlorobiphenyl (2CBP), naphthalène (NAH), 4-chlorophenol (4CP), tetradecane (TD), chlorure de mercure(II) (HgCl2)) à différentes concentrations. Afin de montrer le devenir des bacteries tant au niveau de la cellule individuelle que celui de la population globale, après exposition à des series de composes chimiques, nous avons compte les cellules colorees avec du SYT09 (col¬orant fluorescent vert des acides nucléiques pour la discrimination des cellules par rapport au bruit de fond) en combinaison avec l'iodure de propidium (PI) ou le bromure d'ethidium (EB), indicateurs de l'intégrité de la membrane cellulaire avec FC. Nous avons observe que de nombreux composes testes avaient un effet sur la croissance bacterienne, resultant en une baisse du taux de reproduction de la pop¬ulation. En outre, la double coloration que nous avons utilisee dans cette etude SYT09/PI ou SYT09/EB a montre que les produits chimiques testes induisaient une reponse heterogène des cellules dans la population, divisant celle-ci en sous- populations "saine", "endommagee" ou "morte". Les nombres de cellules à partir du comptage et de la proportion de celles "saines" et "endommagees/mortes" ont ensuite ete utilises pour modeliser la croissance de P. ûuorescens SV3 exposee aux produits chimiques. La reduction nette dans la croissance de population est une consequence du fait que de plus en plus de cellules sont incapables de se reproduire, plutt que du fait d'une croissance plus lente de l'ensemble de la population. De plus, la proportion de cellules endommagees est correllee au dosage du compose chimique. Les résultats obtenus nous ont permis de conclure que le test oligotrophique que nous avons developpe peut tre utilise pour l'évaluation de la toxicité de produits chimiques sur différents modèles bacteriens. Des tests multiples peuvent tre lances en parallèle et les effets sont mesures en l'espace de huit heures. Par ailleurs, nous en déduisons que les produits chimiques exercént un effet sur la croissance des cellules de P. ûuorescens SV3, qui est heterogène parmi les cellules dans la population et depend du produit chimique. Il est intéressant de noter que dans les mmes tests d'exposition avec P. ûuorescens SV3, nous avons observe que certains composes qui n'ont pas conduit à une reduction du taux de la croissance nette de la population, ont cause des effets mesurables sur les cellule saines. Ceci a ete essentiellement observe dans la portion "saine" des cellules en tant qu'augmentation du signal de la fluorescence de 1ΈΒ. D'abord nous avons montre que SYT09/EB était une com¬binaison de colorants plus utile que celle de SYT09/PI parce que la fluorescence du PI a tendance à augmenter uniquement lorsque les cellules sont effectivement mortes, et non pas dans les cellules saines (moins de deux fois plus). Par opposi¬tion, la fluorescence moyenne de l'EB dans les cellules saines augmente jusqu'à huit fois plus après exposition aux composes toxiques. Tous les composes, mme aux plus basses concentrations, induisent une augmentation mesurable de la fluorescence moy¬enne de 1ΈΒ, plus particulièrement après deux heures d'incubation. Cet effet s'est revele tre transitoire pour les cellules exposees aux 2CNP et 4CP, mais est chro¬nique pour les cellules incubees avec le TD et le NAH (entranant la mort cellulaire). Afin de comprendre les mécanismes qui sous-tendent les effets observes, nous avons utilise des decoupleurs d'energie ou de membrane. L'augmentation du signal EB dans les populations causee par des produits chimiques ressemblait à celle exerce par le chelateur des ions divalents EDTA. Cependant, les intensités du signal EB des cellules exposees aux produits chimiques testees n'ont jamais atteint les valeurs des cellules traitees avec l'EDTA ou pasteurises. Nous en concluons que le test oli- gotrophique utilisant la coloration (SYT09/)EB des cellules exposees ou non à un produit chimique est utile afin d'evaluer l'effet toxique exerce par les polluants sur la physiologie bacterienne. Afin de mieux comprendre la reaction d'un système de defense par pompe à efflux après exposition à une toxine, nous avons étudié la toxicité du 2-hydroxybiphenyl (2-HBP) sur Pseudomonas azeiaica HBP1. Nous avons montre que le 2-HBP exerce une toxicité mme sur HBP1, mais uniquement à des concentrations supérieures à 0.5 mM. Au-dessus de cette concentration, des pertes transitoires d'intégrité et de polarization membranaire ont lieu, comme cela nous a ete montre par coloration des cellules en croissance. Les cellules sont finalement capables de se rétablir et de reprendre leur croissance sur 2-HBP. La forte resistance de P. azeiaica HBP1 h 2-HBP physiologie bacterienne s'est revele tre le résultat d'un système de pompe h efflux de type MexABOprM qui contre-balance l'influx passif de ce compose h travers la membrane. Nous avons montre, en construisant des mutants avec des insertions dans les gènes mexA, mexB and oprM et des fusions avec le gène rapporteur gfp, que l'altération de n'importe quelle partie du système d'efflux conduisait à accroître l'accumulation de 2-HBP dans la cellule, en comparaison avec la souche sauvage HBP1, provoquant une diminution de la resistance au 2-HBP ainsi qu'une baisse du taux de reproduction des cellules. Des systèmes d'efflux similaires sont répandus chez de nombreuses espèces bactériennes. Ils seraient responsables de la resistance aux produits chimiques tels que les colorants fluorescents (bromure d'ethidium) et des antibiotiques. Nous concluons que la resistance de P. azelaica HBP1 à 2-HBP est principalement due à un système d'efflux efficace et que 2-HBP, à des concentrations elevees, exerce un effet deletère sur la membrane bacterienne. En se basant sur le comptage des cellules avec la FC, nous avons developpe ensuite une methode pour evaluer la biodegradabilite de polluants tels que le 2-HBP ainsi que les antibiotiques (acide nalidixique (Nal), ampicilline (AMP) ou sulfamethoxazole (SMX)) à de faibles concentrations lmg par L et moins), par le suivi de la croissance spécifique sur le compose de cultures microbiennes pures et mixtes. En utilisant un comptage precis de faibles quantités de cellules nous avons pu demontrer que la croissance spécifique sur ces composes est possible. Nous avons pu illustrer la precision du comptage par cytometrie de flux à faible quantité de cellules (jusqu'à 10 3 cellules par ml). Ensuite, nous avons teste s'il était possible de suivre dynamiquement la croissance de la population de cellules sur faibles concentrations de substrats, en utilisant P. azelaica HBP1. Une relation parfaite a ete trouvee entre le taux de croissance, le rendement et les concentrations de 2-HBP (entre 0.1 et 5 mg par L). En mélangeant HBP1 à de la boue active, nous avons pu montrer que le rendement en communauté mixtes pouvait tre bien inférieur qu'en culture pure. Ceci étant peut tre le résultat d'une perte d'intermédiaires métaboliques. Nous avons ensuite isole de nouvelles souches à partir de la boue active en utilisant le 2-HBP ou des antibiotiques (Nal, AMP, SMX) h basses concentrations (0.1-1 mg par L) comme seules sources de carbone et d'energie. En combinaison avec ceci, nous avons également utilise des microplaques PAO. Les souches purifiees ont ensuite ete examinees pour leurs croissances sur leurs substrats respectifs. De faon intéressante, toutes ces souches ont montre qu'elles ne pouvaient pas survivre à des concentrations de substrats supérieures à 1 ou 10 mg par L. Ainsi, il existe des bacteries qui contribuent à la degradation de composes à basses concentrations de polluant mais sont inhibes lorsque ces concentrations deviennent plus hautes. Finalement, nous avons cherche à savoir s'il est possible de detecter une croissance spécifique à une biomasse au depend d'un polluant, en partant d'une communauté microbienne. Ainsi, nous nous sommes concentre sur certains composes et avons mesure l'augmentation de la biomasse d'une communauté grce à la cytometrie de flux. Nous avons compte deux communautés de depart distinctes: (i) une dilution d'eau du Lac Léman, et une dilution de boue active d'une station d'épuration. Nous avons observe que la plupart des composes testes ont entrane une augmentation de la biomasse de depart par rapport au control sans addition de source de carbone. Néanmoins, les échantillons du lac Léman et de la station d'épuration différaient largement (s'excluant mutuellement l'un l'autre) dans leur capacité à degrader les composes chimiques. Dans deux cas provenant de la station d'épuration, le mme type de communauté microbienne s'est developpe après exposition aux composes, comme l'a démontré l'analyse TRFLP sur les fragments d'ARN 16S purifie de la communauté et amplifie par PCR. Afin de tester correctement la biodegradabilite d'un compose, il est donc important d'utiliser des communautés de depart de différentes origines Nous en concluons que le comptage par cytometrie de flux peut tre un outil de grande utilité pour mettre en valeur la biodegradabillite et la toxicité des composes chimiques.

Occupational respiratory exposures to irritating and sensitizing volatile compounds deriving from cleaning products

Recent findings suggest an association between exposure to cleaning products and respiratory dysfunctions including asthma. However, little information is available about quantitative airborne exposures of professional cleaners to volatile organic compounds deriving from cleaning products. During the first phases of the study, a systematic review of cleaning products was performed. Safety data sheets were reviewed to assess the most frequently added volatile organic compounds. It was found that professional cleaning products are complex mixtures of different components (compounds in cleaning products: 3.5 ± 2.8), and more than 130 chemical substances listed in the safety data sheets were identified in 105 products. The main groups of chemicals were fragrances, glycol ethers, surfactants, solvents; and to a lesser extent phosphates, salts, detergents, pH-stabilizers, acids, and bases. Up to 75% of products contained irritant (Xi), 64% harmful (Xn) and 28% corrosive (C) labeled substances. Hazards for eyes (59%), skin (50%) and by ingestion (60%) were the most reported. Monoethanolamine, a strong irritant and known to be involved in sensitizing mechanisms as well as allergic reactions, is frequently added to cleaning products. Monoethanolamine determination in air has traditionally been difficult and air sampling and analysis methods available were little adapted for personal occupational air concentration assessments. A convenient method was developed with air sampling on impregnated glass fiber filters followed by one step desorption, gas chromatography and nitrogen phosphorous selective detection. An exposure assessment was conducted in the cleaning sector, to determine airborne concentrations of monoethanolamine, glycol ethers, and benzyl alcohol during different cleaning tasks performed by professional cleaning workers in different companies, and to determine background air concentrations of formaldehyde, a known indoor air contaminant. The occupational exposure study was carried out in 12 cleaning companies, and personal air samples were collected for monoethanolamine (n=68), glycol ethers (n=79), benzyl alcohol (n=15) and formaldehyde (n=45). All but ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether air concentrations measured were far below (<1/10) of the Swiss eight hours occupational exposure limits, except for butoxypropanol and benzyl alcohol, where no occupational exposure limits were available. Although only detected once, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether air concentrations (n=4) were high (49.5 mg/m3 to 58.7 mg/m3), hovering at the Swiss occupational exposure limit (49 mg/m3). Background air concentrations showed no presence of monoethanolamine, while the glycol ethers were often present, and formaldehyde was universally detected. Exposures were influenced by the amount of monoethanolamine in the cleaning product, cross ventilation and spraying. The collected data was used to test an already existing exposure modeling tool during the last phases of the study. The exposure estimation of the so called Bayesian tool converged with the measured range of exposure the more air concentrations of measured exposure were added. This was best described by an inverse 2nd order equation. The results suggest that the Bayesian tool is not adapted to predict low exposures. The Bayesian tool should be tested also with other datasets describing higher exposures. Low exposures to different chemical sensitizers and irritants should be further investigated to better understand the development of respiratory disorders in cleaning workers. Prevention measures should especially focus on incorrect use of cleaning products, to avoid high air concentrations at the exposure limits. - De récentes études montrent l'existence d'un lien entre l'exposition aux produits de nettoyages et les maladies respiratoires telles que l'asthme. En revanche, encore peu d'informations sont disponibles concernant la quantité d'exposition des professionnels du secteur du nettoyage aux composants organiques volatiles provenant des produits qu'ils utilisent. Pendant la première phase de cette étude, un recueil systématique des produits professionnels utilisés dans le secteur du nettoyage a été effectué. Les fiches de données de sécurité de ces produits ont ensuite été analysées, afin de répertorier les composés organiques volatiles les plus souvent utilisés. Il a été mis en évidence que les produits de nettoyage professionnels sont des mélanges complexes de composants chimiques (composants chimiques dans les produits de nettoyage : 3.5 ± 2.8). Ainsi, plus de 130 substances listées dans les fiches de données de sécurité ont été retrouvées dans les 105 produits répertoriés. Les principales classes de substances chimiques identifiées étaient les parfums, les éthers de glycol, les agents de surface et les solvants; dans une moindre mesure, les phosphates, les sels, les détergents, les régulateurs de pH, les acides et les bases ont été identifiés. Plus de 75% des produits répertoriés contenaient des substances décrites comme irritantes (Xi), 64% nuisibles (Xn) et 28% corrosives (C). Les risques pour les yeux (59%), la peau (50%) et par ingestion (60%) était les plus mentionnés. La monoéthanolamine, un fort irritant connu pour être impliqué dans les mécanismes de sensibilisation tels que les réactions allergiques, est fréquemment ajouté aux produits de nettoyage. L'analyse de la monoéthanolamine dans l'air a été habituellement difficile et les échantillons d'air ainsi que les méthodes d'analyse déjà disponibles étaient peu adaptées à l'évaluation de la concentration individuelle d'air aux postes de travail. Une nouvelle méthode plus efficace a donc été développée en captant les échantillons d'air sur des filtres de fibre de verre imprégnés, suivi par une étape de désorption, puis une Chromatographie des gaz et enfin une détection sélective des composants d'azote. Une évaluation de l'exposition des professionnels a été réalisée dans le secteur du nettoyage afin de déterminer la concentration atmosphérique en monoéthanolamine, en éthers de glycol et en alcool benzylique au cours des différentes tâches de nettoyage effectuées par les professionnels du nettoyage dans différentes entreprises, ainsi que pour déterminer les concentrations atmosphériques de fond en formaldéhyde, un polluant de l'air intérieur bien connu. L'étude de l'exposition professionnelle a été effectuée dans 12 compagnies de nettoyage et les échantillons d'air individuels ont été collectés pour l'éthanolamine (n=68), les éthers de glycol (n=79), l'alcool benzylique (n=15) et le formaldéhyde (n=45). Toutes les substances mesurées dans l'air, excepté le 2-butoxyéthanol, étaient en-dessous (<1/10) de la valeur moyenne d'exposition aux postes de travail en Suisse (8 heures), excepté pour le butoxypropanol et l'alcool benzylique, pour lesquels aucune valeur limite d'exposition n'était disponible. Bien que détecté qu'une seule fois, les concentrations d'air de 2-butoxyéthanol (n=4) étaient élevées (49,5 mg/m3 à 58,7 mg/m3), se situant au-dessus de la frontière des valeurs limites d'exposition aux postes de travail en Suisse (49 mg/m3). Les concentrations d'air de fond n'ont montré aucune présence de monoéthanolamine, alors que les éthers de glycol étaient souvent présents et les formaldéhydes quasiment toujours détectés. L'exposition des professionnels a été influencée par la quantité de monoéthanolamine présente dans les produits de nettoyage utilisés, par la ventilation extérieure et par l'emploie de sprays. Durant la dernière phase de l'étude, les informations collectées ont été utilisées pour tester un outil de modélisation de l'exposition déjà existant, l'outil de Bayesian. L'estimation de l'exposition de cet outil convergeait avec l'exposition mesurée. Cela a été le mieux décrit par une équation du second degré inversée. Les résultats suggèrent que l'outil de Bayesian n'est pas adapté pour mettre en évidence les taux d'expositions faibles. Cet outil devrait également être testé avec d'autres ensembles de données décrivant des taux d'expositions plus élevés. L'exposition répétée à des substances chimiques ayant des propriétés irritatives et sensibilisantes devrait être investiguée d'avantage, afin de mieux comprendre l'apparition de maladies respiratoires chez les professionnels du nettoyage. Des mesures de prévention devraient tout particulièrement être orientées sur l'utilisation correcte des produits de nettoyage, afin d'éviter les concentrations d'air élevées se situant à la valeur limite d'exposition acceptée.

Database of the Amazon aromatic plants and their essential oils

The aromatic flora of the Amazon has been inventoried for 30 years. In this sense, were made over 500 field trips to collect over 2500 plants and to obtain more than 2000 essential oils and aroma concentrates, all of them submitted to GC and GC-MS. This work led to the creation of a database for the aromatic plants of the Amazon, which catalogs general information about 1250 specimens. The database has allowed the publication of the chemical composition of the oils and aromas of more than 350 species, associated with a larger number of chemical types. The essential oils of many species offer optimum conditions for economic exploitation and use in national and international market of fragrances, cosmetics, agricultural and household pesticides.

De aromas e perfumes, o mercado da indústria do "cheiro"

Several flavors and fragrances (F&F) companies hold the economic leadership in the market, although not always have also the leadership in patent applications. The ranking of technological production in the fragrance area still remains with industries while scientific knowledge is equally shared between industries and academia. Contextualizing Brazil in this scene, despite all scientific expertise gained over the years, brazilian technological park is still at the beginning of the production of technologies applied directly to the F&F industries. The dependence on foreign technologies is remarkable as indicated by the great trade deficit in this sector.

Novel technology for preparation of optically active chemicals

Asymmetric synthesis using modified heterogeneous catalysts has gained lots of interest in the production of optically pure chemicals, such as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, fragrances and agrochemicals. Heterogeneous modified catalysts capable of inducing high enantioselectivities are preferred in industrial scale due to their superior separation and handling properties. The topic has been intensively investigated both in industry and academia. The enantioselective hydrogenation of ethyl benzoylformate (EBF) to (R)-ethyl mandelate over (-)-cinchonidine (CD)-modified Pt/Al2O3 catalyst in a laboratory-scale semi-batch reactor was studied as a function of modifier concentration, reaction temperature, stirring rate and catalyst particle size. The main product was always (R)-ethyl mandelate while small amounts of (S)-ethyl mandelate were obtained as by product. The kinetic results showed higher enantioselectivity and lower initial rates approaching asymptotically to a constant value as the amount of modifier was increased. Additionally, catalyst deactivation due to presence of impurities in the feed was prominent in some cases; therefore activated carbon was used as a cleaning agent of the raw material to remove impurities prior to catalyst addition. Detailed characterizations methods (SEM, EDX, TPR, BET, chemisorption, particle size distribution) of the catalysts were carried out. Solvent effects were also studied in the semi-batch reactor. Solvents with dielectric constant (e) between 2 and 25 were applied. The enantiomeric excess (ee) increased with an increase of the dielectric coefficient up to a maximum followed by a nonlinear decrease. A kinetic model was proposed for the enantioselectivity dependence on the dielectric constant based on the Kirkwood treatment. The non-linear dependence of ee on (e) successfully described the variation of ee in different solvents. Systematic kinetic experiments were carried out in the semi-batch reactor. Toluene was used as a solvent. Based on these results, a kinetic model based on the assumption of different number of sites was developed. Density functional theory calculations were applied to study the energetics of the EBF adsorption on pure Pt(1 1 1). The hydrogenation rate constants were determined along with the adsorption parameters by non-linear regression analysis. A comparison between the model and the experimental data revealed a very good correspondence. Transient experiments in a fixed-bed reactor were also carried out in this work. The results demonstrated that continuous enantioselective hydrogenation of EBF in hexane/2-propanol 90/10 (v/v) is possible and that continuous feeding of (-)-cinchonidine is needed to maintain a high steady-state enantioselectivity. The catalyst showed a good stability and high enantioselectivity was achieved in the fixed-bed reactor. Chromatographic separation of (R)- and (S)-ethyl mandelate originating from the continuous reactor was investigated. A commercial column filled with a chiral resin was chosen as a perspective preparative-scale adsorbent. Since the adsorption equilibrium isotherms were linear within the entire investigated range of concentrations, they were determined by pulse experiments for the isomers present in a post-reaction mixture. Breakthrough curves were measured and described successfully by the dispersive plug flow model with a linear driving force approximation. The focus of this research project was the development of a new integrated production concept of optically active chemicals by combining heterogeneous catalysis and chromatographic separation technology. The proposed work is fundamental research in advanced process technology aiming to improve efficiency and enable clean and environmentally benign production of enantiomeric pure chemicals.

α-Pinene oxide and verbenol oxide isomerizations over heterogeneous catalysts

Terpenes are a valuable natural resource for the production of fine chemicals. Turpentine, obtained from biomass and also as a side product of softwood industry, is rich in monoterpenes such as α-pinene and β-pinene, which are widely used as raw materials in the synthesis of flavors, fragrances and pharmaceutical compounds. The rearrangement of their epoxides has been thoroughly studied in recent years, as a method to obtain compounds which are further used in the fine chemical industry. The industrially most desired products of α-pinene oxide isomerization are campholenic aldehyde and trans-carveol. Campholenic aldehyde is an intermediate for the manufacture of sandalwood-like fragrances such as santalol. Trans-carveol is an expensive constituent of the Valencia orange essence oil used in perfume bases and food flavor composition. Furthermore it has been found to exhibit chemoprevention of mammary carcinogenesis. A wide range of iron and ceria supported catalysts were prepared, characterized and tested for α-pinene oxide isomerization in order to selective synthesis of above mentioned products. The highest catalytic activity in the preparation of campholenic aldehyde over iron modified catalysts using toluene as a solvent at 70 °C (total conversion of α-pinene oxide with a selectivity of 66 % to the desired aldehyde) was achieved in the presence of Fe-MCM-41. Furthermore, Fe-MCM-41 catalyst was successfully regenerated without deterioration of catalytic activity and selectivity. The most active catalysts in the synthesis of trans-carveol from α-pinene oxide over iron and ceria modified catalysts in N,N-dimethylacetamide as a solvent at 140 °C (total conversion of α-pinene oxide with selectivity 43 % to trans-carveol) were Fe-Beta-300 and Ce-Si-MCM-41. These catalysts were further tested for an analogous reaction, namely verbenol oxide isomerization. Verbenone is another natural organic compound which can be found in a variety of plants or synthesized by allylic oxidation of α-pinene. An interesting product which is synthesized from verbenone is (1R,2R,6S)-3-methyl-6-(prop-1-en-2-yl)cyclohex-3-ene-1,2-diol. It has been discovered that this diol possesses potent anti-Parkinson activity. The most effective way leading to desired diol starts from verbenone and includes three stages: epoxidation of verbenone to verbenone oxide, reduction of verbenone oxide and subsequent isomerization of obtained verbenol oxide, which is analogous to isomerization of α-pinene oxide. In the research focused on the last step of these synthesis, high selectivity (82 %) to desired diol was achieved in the isomerization of verbenol oxide at a conversion level of 96 % in N,N-dimethylacetamide at 140 °C using iron modified zeolite, Fe-Beta-300. This reaction displayed surprisingly high selectivity, which has not been achieved yet. The possibility of the reuse of heterogeneous catalysts without activity loss was demonstrated.

β-carotene biotransformation to obtain aroma compounds

Carotenoids are important constituents of food due to their color and because their degradation products generate important volatile compounds in foods. Aroma compounds derived from carotenoids are widely distributed in nature, and they are precursors of many important aromas in foods such as fruits and in flowers as well. They present high aromatic potential and are therefore of great interest to the industries of aromas and fragrances. In this study, more than 300 previously isolated microorganisms with potential for biotransformation of β-carotene present in the culture medium were selected using the plate method; about 80 strains presented capacity to produce aroma compounds and 7 strains were selected by an untrained panel of tasters to generate aroma compounds. The β-ionone was the main compound produced by CS1 (34.0 mg.L-1) and CF9 (42.4 mg.L-1) microorganisms at 72 and 24 hours of fermentation, cultured with and without pre-inoculation, respectively. The β-damascone and pseudoionone were found in low concentrations, 1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydronaphthalen (TTN) was tentatively identified and other compounds such as apocarotenoids, apparently obtained from the cleavage of the central part of the carotenoid, were detected.

Características del diseño de una relación estratégica comunitaria y marketing en emprendimiento en el sector de ambientadores y cosméticos

En nuestro país el sector de ambientadores y cosméticos ha presentado un crecimiento económico constante y notable, proyectando a Colombia para el año 2032 como un dirigente en la elaboración de cosméticos y productos de aseo. La biodiversidad colombiana ofrece múltiples recursos, incluyendo una gran diversidad de aromas naturales, es un importante mercado para producción de cosméticos sin la utilización de productos artificiales. El presente trabajo de investigación tiene por objetivo determinar las características del diseño de una relación estratégica comunitaria y marketing en la creación de una empresa de cosméticos y ambientadores. Ésta investigación se realiza bajo la recopilación de información del sector y principalmente de la organización, dentro de un estudio empírico-analítico descriptivo. Estableciendo resultados que finalmente dan respuesta a la utilidad de estrategias comunitarias en la actualidad. En el caso de estudio de la nueva empresa "Jolie Le Petit" en un sector en crecimiento, ofrece múltiples oportunidades de negocio y permite generar ideas innovadoras para la venta de productos. La facilidad de cambio y la inclusión en la comunidad posibilita el acercamiento a los clientes, asegurando la permanencia en el mercado indicado. Considerando la posibilidad que la inversión extranjera en el sector pueda afectar notablemente el mercado nacional. Mediante el análisis concluimos que la estrategia de mercadeo comunitaria es adecuada y aplicable a este tipo de empresa. "Jolie Le Petit" además de ser una unidad es también un actor social, estando inmersa en una comunidad en donde juega un papel vital el ser percibida como un buen vecino, ofreciendo a los clientes confianza compromiso y relación continua.