SENSORY APPROACH TO MEASURE FRAGRANCE INTENSITY ON THE SKIN

Sensory analysis is a precise and descriptive measuring technique to quantify human responses to stimuli. Odor, one of these stimuli, is basically the result of the interaction between a chemical stimulus and the olfactory receptor system, which can be described using a number of different dimensions and measures through different sensory tests: threshold, intensity and quality. To measure fragrance performance on the skin, these parameters are very important, but the main attribute to be evaluated is substantivity, thus the importance of the sensory scale chosen to measure perception, discriminate different intensities and determine the substantivity of the fragrance. Some studies comparing the labeled magnitude scale (LMS) with other magnitude scales and their derivations showed that the use of the LMS scale to measure fragrance intensity could semantically understand the intensity of the stimulus. Tests using this scale confirmed the applicability and efficiency of the LMS. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS The objective of this article is to review the techniques used to measure odor and fragrance intensities applied on the skin. The review shows general sensory techniques and their goals, the newest olfactory mechanism and its contribution to sensory evaluation and which attributes should be considered to measure odor. Substantivity/retentivity or longevity can be regarded as the most important attributes if you want to measure fragrance performance on the skin. Past studies showed different scales tested to measure odor, and some of them demonstrated that the labeled magnitude scale is very suitable to measure fragrance on the skin.

Efficient advertising strategies for the fragrance market

A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics

Observations on fragrance collection behaviour of euglossine bees (Hymenoptera, Apidae)

Male bees of the tribe Euglossini collect volatile chemicals secreted by orchids using dense patches of hair on the front tarsi. After collecting chemicals, the bee hovers while transferring these fragrances to invaginations on the hind tibiae. The fragrance collection and hovering behaviours are repeated multiple times. Here I report preliminary field observations on the length of fragrance collection and hovering phases in bees of the Eulaema meriana (Oliver, 1789) mimicry complex visiting the orchid Catasetum discolor in Kavanayén,Venezuela. I observed that in extended visits with many cycles of fragrance collection and hovering, the length of each collection phase gradually increased, while the length of hovering phase was static. This suggests either that chemicals secreted by orchids are in limited supply or that efficiency of fragrance collection drops.

Fragrance release from the surface of branched poly(amide)s

Enzymes are powerful tools in organic synthesis that are able to catalyse a wide variety of selective chemical transformations under mild and environmentally friendly conditions. Enzymes such as the lipases have also found applications in the synthesis and degradation of polymeric materials. However, the use of these natural catalysts in the synthesis and the post-synthetic modification of dendrimers and hyperbranched molecules is an application of chemistry yet to be explored extensively. In this study the use of two hydrolytic enzymes, a lipase from Candida cylindracea and a cutinase from Fusarium solani pisii, were investigated in the selective cleavage of ester groups situated on the peripheral layer of two families of branched polyamides. These branched polyamides were conjugated to simple fragrances citronellol and L-menthol via ester linkages. Hydrolysis of the ester linkage between the fragrances and the branched polyamide support was carried out in aqueous buffered systems at slightly basic pH values under the optimum operative conditions for the enzymes used. These preliminary qualitative investigations revealed that partial cleavage of the ester functionalities from the branched polyamide support had occurred. However, the ability of the enzymes to interact with the substrates decreased considerably as the branching density, the rigidity of the structure and the bulkiness of the polyamide-fragrance conjugates increased.

On the effect of aromatherapy with citrus fragrance in the therapy of major depressive disorder

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Fragrance: a lecture

Mode of access: Internet.

Fragrance compositions comprising ionic liquids

The present invention relates to a fragrance composition comprising ionic liquids for enhanced evaporation of the perfume raw materials. The invention also relates to methods of use of the fragrance compositions for perfuming suitable substrates, particularly skin and hair.

Ionic liquids as modulators of fragrance release in consumer goods

When organic esters or alcohols were dissolved in each of three novel ionic liquids (which have no effective vapour pressure), the vapour–liquid equilibria (as measured by infrared spectroscopy of the gas phase) revealed significant positive deviation from Raoult’s law for a wide range of perfume raw materials. The addition of water amplified the repulsive effect of the ionic liquid matrix, and this was exemplified by a series of ternary phase diagrams

Plano de Negócio de uma Empresa de Produção e Comercialização de Perfumes Naturais Kriol Fragrance

O presente trabalho de conclusão de curso visa a elaboração de um plano de negócio de uma empresa de produção e comercialização de perfumes de produtos naturais no mercado nacional, a Kriol Fragance. A realização do trabalho foi fundamentada nos conceitos e pressupostos de perfumaria, empreendedorismo e plano de negócios. Destacam-se o processo de produção, o perfil do empreendedor e as fases de elaboração do plano de negócio. O estudo baseia-se em dados primários e dados secundários. Os dados primários foram recolhidos através de entrevistas e questionários. Foi aplicado um inquérito por questionário a uma amostra de 95 potenciais clientes, com o fim de apurar a perceção destes em relação aos produtos e com a finalidade de formular as estratégias comerciais da futura empresa. A importância do trabalho se fundamenta na necessidade de planear o negócio e de analisar a viabilidade financeira do mesmo. Os resultados alcançados demonstraram que existe mercado para este tipo de produto e que as estimativas correlacionadas com as condições do mercado comprovam a viabilidade do projeto.

Preparação do (+)-±-terpineol a partir do (+)-limoneno: monoterpenos de odor agradável em um projeto para química orgânica experimental

A synthesis of (+)-±-terpineol from (+)-limonene was proposed as a project for undergraduate organic laboratory course. Terpineol is a useful flavor and fragrance compound, and several aspects of this preparation are suited for experimental organic classes, including basic techniques for extraction and analyses of essential oils, different reaction types and the possibility of a high degree of student interest.

Rubus rosaefolius Extract as a Natural Preservative Candidate in Topical Formulations

Even though the synthetic preservatives may offer a high antimicrobial efficacy, they are commonly related to adverse reactions and regarded as having potentially harmful effects caused by chronic consumption. The development of natural preservatives provides a way of reducing the amount of synthetic preservatives normally used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In addition, these agents have less toxic effects and represent a possible natural and safer alternative of the preservatives. The purpose of this research was to evaluate the Rubus rosaefolius Smith extract efficiency as a natural preservative in base formulations. Of the extract, 0.2% (w/w) was assayed for its effectiveness of antimicrobial protection in two different base formulations (emulsion and gel). The microbial challenge test was performed following the standard procedures proposed by The United States Pharmacopoeia 33nd, European Pharmacopoeia 6th, Japanese Pharmacopoeia 15th, and the Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association using standardized microorganisms. The results demonstrated that R. rosaefolius extract at the studied concentration reduced the bacterial inocula, satisfying the criterion in all formulations, even though it was not able to present an effective preservative behavior against fungi. Thus, the investigation of new natural substances with preservative properties that could be applied in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products is relevant due to the possibility of substituting or decreasing the concentration of synthetic preservatives, providing a way for the development of safer formulas for the use of consumers.

Implementação da estratégia de marketing sensorial: uma abordagem empírica

Dissertação de Mestrado, Ciências Económicas e Empresariais, 16 de Dezembro 2013, Universidade dos Açores.

How to sell successfully a perfume in the non-selective market?

A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics

Technical optimization of the synthesis of flavours

The goal of this thesis is the investigation and optimization of the synthesis of potential fragrances. This work is projected as collaboration between the University of Applied Sciences in Merseburg and the company Miltitz Aromatics GmbH in Bitterfeld‐Wolfen (Germany). Flavoured compounds can be synthesized in different ways and by various methods. In this work, methods like the phase transfer catalysis and the Cope‐rearrangement were investigated and applied, for getting a high yield and quantity of the desired substances and without any by‐products or side reactions. This involved the study of syntheses with different process parameters such as temperature, solvent, pressure and reaction time. The main focus was on Cope‐rearrangement, which is a common method in the synthesis of new potential fragrance compounds. The substances synthesized in this work have a hepta‐1,5‐diene‐structure and that is why they can easily undergo this [3,3]‐sigma tropic rearrangement. The lead compound of all research was 2,5‐dimethyl‐2‐vinyl‐4‐hexenenitrile (Neronil). Neronil is synthesized by an alkylation of 2‐methyl‐3‐butenenitrile with prenylchloride under basic conditions in a phase‐transfer system. In this work the yield of isolated Neronil is improved from about 35% to 46% by according to the execution conditions of the reaction. Additionally the amount of side product was decreased. This synthesized hexenenitrile involved not only the aforementioned 1,5‐diene‐structure, but also a cyano group, that makes this structure a suitable base for the synthesis of new potential fragrance compounds. It was observed that Neronil can be transferred into 2,5‐dimethyl‐2‐vinyl‐4‐hexenoic acid by a hydrolysis under basic conditions. After five hours the acid can be obtained with a yield of 96%. The following esterification is realized with isobutanol to produce 2,5‐dimethyl‐2‐vinyl‐4‐hexenoic acid isobutyl ester with quantitative conversion. It was observed that the Neronil and the corresponding ester can be converted into the corresponding Cope‐product, with a conversion of 30 % and 80%. Implementing the Cope‐rearrangement, the acid was heated and an unexpected decarboxylated product is formed. To achieve the best verification of reaction development and structure, scrupulous analyses were done using GC‐MS, 1H‐NMR and 13C‐ NMR.