Constructed Fashion: The Catwalk System as an Architectural Project

Teniendo en cuenta que no hay nada que se escape de la moda 1, y extendiendonos más allá de esta manida discusión sobre intersecciones formales, esta investigación propone la pasarela como un lugar real de mediación entre moda y arquitectura. Asumiendo esta condición, la pasarela encarna nuevos modos de producción apropiándose de su espacio y estructura, y convierténdose en una máquina capaz de generar múltiples y más bien infinitos significados. La moda es sin duda un proyecto creativo, que ha venido utilizando la pasarela como un marco para la reordenación de su narrativa visual, renovándose asi mismo como fenómeno social. Este proyecto de investigación plantea, que contrariamente las tipologías actuales de las pasarelas no nos facilitan la comprensión de una colección – que suele ser el objetivo principal. Presentan en cambio un entorno en el que se acoplan diferentes formatos visuales, -con varias capas-, conviéndolo en una compleja construcción y provocando nunerosas fricciones con el espacio-tiempo-acción durante el proceso de creación de otros territorios. Partiendo de la idea de la pasarela como un sistema, en el que sus numerosas variables pueden producir diversas combinaciones, esta investigación plantea la hipótesis por la cual un nuevo sistema de pasarela se estaría formando enteramente con capas de información. Este escenario nos conduciría a la inmersión final de la moda en los tejidos de la virtualidad. Si bien el debate sobre la relevancia de los desfiles de moda se ha vuelto más evidente hoy en día, esta investigación especula con la posibilidad del pensamiento arquitectónico y como este puede introducir metodologías de análisis en el marco de estos desfiles de moda, proponiendo una lectura de la pasarela como un sistema de procedimientos específicos inherente a los proyectos/procesos de la arquitectura. Este enfoque enlaza ambas prácticas en un territorio común donde el espacio, el diseño, el comportamiento, el movimiento, y los cuerpos son ordenados/organizados en la creación de estas nuevas posibilidades visuales, y donde las interacciones activan la generación de la novedad y los mensajes. PALABRAS CLAVES moda, sistema, virtual, información, arquitectura Considering that there is nothing left untouched by fashion2, and going beyond the already exhausted discussion about formal intersections, this research introduces the catwalk as the real arena of mediation between fashion and architecture. By assuming this condition, the catwalk embodies new modes of production that appropriates its space and turns it into a machine for generating multiple if not infinite meanings. Fashion, as a creative project, has utilized the catwalk as a frame for rearranging its visual narrative and renewing itself as social phenomena. This research disputes, however, that the current typologies of catwalks do not facilitate the understanding of the collection – as its primary goal - but, instead, present an environment composed of multi-layered visual formats, becoming a complex construct that collides space-time-action in the creation of other territories. Departing from the analysis of the catwalk as a system and how its many variables can produce diverse combinations, this research presents the hypothesis that a new system is being formed entirely built out of information. Such scenario indicates fashion´s final immersion into the fabrics of virtuality. While the discussion about the relevance of fashion shows has become more evident today, this research serves as an introductory speculation on how architectural thinking can introduce methodologies of analysis within the framework of the fashion shows, by proposing a reading of the catwalk as a system through specific procedures that are inherent to architectural projects. Such approach intertwines both practices into a common territory where space, design, behaviour, movement, and bodies are organized for the creation of visual possibilities, and where interactions are triggered in the making of novelty and messages. KEYWORDS fashion, system, virtual, information, architectural

Sustainable futuring. Learning and unlearning the past A critical discourse study of ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in Vogue Italia (1965-2021)

Recent scholarly works on the relationship between ‘fashion’ and ‘sustainability’ have identified a need for a systemic transition towards fashion media ‘for sustaianbility’. Nevertheless, the academic research on the topic is still limited and rather circumscribed to the analysis of marketing practices, while only recently some more systemic and critical analyses of the symbolic production of sustainability through fashion media have been undertaken. Responding to this need for an in-depth investigation of ‘sustainability’-related media production, my research focuses on the ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in the context of one of the most influential fashion magazines today – Vogue Italia. In order to investigate the ways in which the ‘sustainability’ discourse was formed and has evolved, the study considered the entire Vogue Italia archive from 1965 to 2021. The data collection was carried out in two phases, and the individualised relevant discursive units were then in-depth and critically analysed to allow for a grounded assessment of the media giant’s position. The Discourse-Historical Approach provided a methodological base for the analysis, which took into consideration the various levels of context: the immediate textual and intertextual, but also the broader socio-cultural context of the predominant, over-production oriented and capital-led fashion system. The findings led to a delineation of the evolution of the ‘fashion sustainability’ discourse, unveiling how despite Vogue Italia’s auto-determination as attentive to ‘sustainability’-related topics, the magazine is systemically employing discursive strategies which significantly mitigate the meaning of the ‘sustainable commitment’ and thus the meaning of ‘fashion sustainability’.

Le mostre di moda contemporanee come dispositivo testuale

La tesi si pone come obiettivo quello di indagare le mostre di moda contemporanee come macchine testuali. Se consideriamo l’attuale panorama del fashion design come caratterizzato da una complessità costitutiva e da rapidi mutamenti che lo attraversano, e se partiamo dal presupposto che lo spettro di significati che uno stile di abbigliamento e i singoli capi possono assumere è estremamente sfuggente, probabilmente risulta più produttivo interrogarsi su come funziona la moda, su quali sono i suoi meccanismi di produzione di significato. L’analisi delle fashion exhibition si rivela quindi un modo utile per affrontare la questione, dato che gli allestimenti discorsivizzano questi meccanismi e rappresentano delle riflessioni tridimensionali attorno a temi specifici. La mostra di moda mette in scena delle eccezionalità che magnificano aspetti tipici del funzionamento del fashion system, sia se ci rivolgiamo alla moda dal punto di vista della produzione, sia se la consideriamo dal punto di vista della fruizione. L’indagine ha rintracciato nelle mostre curate da Diana Vreeland al Costume Institute del Metropolitan Museum di New York il modello di riferimento per le mostre di moda contemporanee. Vreeland, che dal 1936 al 1971 è stata prima fashion editor e poi editor-in-chief rispettivamente di “Harper’s Bazaar” e di “Vogue USA”, ha segnato un passaggio fondamentale quando nel 1972 ha deciso di accettare il ruolo di Special Consultant al Costume Institute. È ormai opinione diffusa fra critici e studiosi di moda che le mostre da lei organizzate nel corso di più di un decennio abbiano cambiato il modo di mettere in scena i vestiti nei musei. Al lavoro di Vreeland abbiamo poi accostato una recente mostra di moda che ha fatto molto parlare di sé: Spectres. When Fashion Turns Back, a cura di Judith Clark (2004). Nell’indagare i rapporti fra il fashion design contemporaneo e la storia della moda questa mostra ha utilizzato macchine allestitive abitate dai vestiti, per “costruire idee spaziali” e mettere in scena delle connessioni non immediate fra passato e presente. Questa mostra ci è sembrata centrale per evidenziare lo sguardo semiotico del curatore nel suo interrogarsi sul progetto complessivo dell’exhibition design e non semplicemente sullo studio degli abiti in mostra. In questo modo abbiamo delineato due posizioni: una rappresentata da un approccio object-based all’analisi del vestito, che si lega direttamente alla tradizione dei conservatori museali; l’altra rappresentata da quella che ormai si può considerare una disciplina, il fashion curation, che attribuisce molta importanza a tutti gli aspetti che concorrono a formare il progetto allestitivo di una mostra. Un lavoro comparativo fra alcune delle più importanti mostre di moda recentemente organizzate ci ha permesso di individuare elementi ricorrenti e specificità di questi dispositivi testuali. Utilizzando il contributo di Manar Hammad (2006) abbiamo preso in considerazione i diversi livelli di una mostra di moda: gli abiti e il loro rapporto con i manichini; l’exhibition design e lo spazio della mostra; il percorso e la sequenza, sia dal punto di vista della strategia di costruzione e dispiegamento testuale, sia dal punto di vista del fruitore modello. Abbiamo così individuato quattro gruppi di mostre di moda: mostre museali-archivistiche; retrospettive monografiche; mostre legate alla figura di un curatore; forme miste che si posizionano trasversalmente rispetto a questi primi tre modelli. Questa sistematizzazione ha evidenziato che una delle dimensione centrali per le mostre di moda contemporanee è proprio la questione della curatorship, che possiamo leggere in termini di autorialità ed enunciazione. Si sono ulteriormente chiariti anche gli orizzonti valoriali di riferimento: alla dimensione dell’accuratezza storica è associata una mostra che predilige il livello degli oggetti (gli abiti) e un coinvolgimento del visitatore puramente visivo; alla dimensione del piacere visivo possiamo invece associare un modello di mostra che assegna all’exhibition design un ruolo centrale e “chiede” al visitatore di giocare un ruolo pienamente interattivo. L’approccio curatoriale più compiuto ci sembra essere quello che cerca di conciliare queste due dimensioni.

Ionic mobility of the solvated proton and acid-base titration in a four-compartment capillary electrophoresis system

Although H(+) and OH(-) are the most common ions in aqueous media, they are not usually observable in capillary electrophoresis (CE) experiments, because of the extensive use of buffer solutions as the background electrolyte. In the present work, we introduce CE equipment designed to allow the determination of such ions in a similar fashion as any other ion. Basically, it consists of a four-compartment piece of equipment for electrolysis-separated experiments (D. P. de Jesus et at, Anal. Chem., 2005, 77, 607). In such a system, the ends of the capillary are placed in two reservoirs, which are connected to two other reservoirs through electrolyte-filled tubes. The electrodes of the high-voltage power source are positioned in these reservoirs. Thus, the electrolysis products are kept away from the inputs of the capillary. The detection was provided by two capacitively coupled contactless conductivity detectors (CD), each one positioned about 11 cm from the end of the capillary. Two applications were demonstrated: titration-like procedures for nanolitre samples and mobility measurements. Strong and weak acids (pK(a) < 5), pure or mixtures, could be titrated. The analytical curve is linear from 50 mu M up to 10 mM of total dissociable hydrogen (r = 0.99899 for n =10) in 10-nL samples. By including D(2)O in the running electrolyte, we could demonstrate how to measure the mixed proton/deuteron mobility. When H(2)O/D(2)O (9 : 1 v/v) was used as the solvent, the mobility was 289.6 +/- 0.5 x 10(-5) cm(2) V(-1) s(-1). Due to the fast conversion of the species, this value is related to the overall behaviour of all isotopologues and isotopomers of the Zundel and Eigen structures, as well as the Stokesian mobility of proton and deuteron. The effect of neutral (o-phenanthroline) and negatively charged (chloroacetate) bases and aprotic solvent (DMSO) over the H(+) mobility was also demonstrated.

Cyhalothrin increased c-fos immunoreactivity at the paraventricular nucleus of the hypothalamus in rats, and suppressed macrophage activity in an adrenal-dependent fashion

Synthetic type II pyrethroid insecticides, such as cyhalothrin at certain dosage levels, simultaneously induce stress-like symptoms and innate immunosuppressive effects in laboratory animals. The present study was designed to further analyze the stress-like effects induced by cyhalotrin and also investigate the role of Hypothalamus-Hypophysis-Adrenal (HHA) axis and Sympathetic Nervous Systems (SNS) and their effects on macrophage activity of rats. Results showed that cyhalothrin treatment (3.0 mg/kg/day. for 7 days) increased corticosterone serum levels and c-fos immunoreactivity at the paraventricular nucleus of the hypothalamus (PVN) but induced no changes in c-fos expression at the basolateral amygdala (BLA). Both areas were related to HHA axis and SNS activations by stress. Further analysis showed that adrenalectomy partially abrogated the suppression effects of cyhalothrin on macrophage activity and that 6-OHDA-induced peripheral symphatectyomy had no effects on this innate immune cell activity. The present observed data support and reinforce the notion that cyhalotrin at this treatment schedule induces stress-like symptoms and suggest that other factors, beyond indirect neuroadaptative responses, are necessary for the suppression effects of insecticide on innate immune response. (C) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Optimized near real-time remote device tracking and monitoring system

Os serviços baseados em localização vieram dar um novo alento à criatividade dos programadores de aplicações móveis. A vulgarização de dispositivos com capacidades de localização integradas deu origem ao desenvolvimento de aplicações que gerem e apresentam informação baseada na posição do utilizador. Desde então, o mercado móvel tem assistido ao aparecimento de novas categorias de aplicações que tiram proveito desta capacidade. Entre elas, destaca-se a monitorização remota de dispositivos, que tem vindo a assumir uma importância crescente, tanto no sector particular como no sector empresarial. Esta dissertação começa por apresentar o estado da arte sobre os diferentes sistemas de posicionamento, categorizados pela sua eficácia em ambientes internos ou externos, assim como diferentes protocolos de comunicação em tempo quase-real. É também feita uma análise ao estado actual do mercado móvel. Actualmente o mercado possui diferentes plataformas móveis com características únicas que as fazem rivalizar entre si, com vista a expandirem a sua quota de mercado. É por isso elaborado um breve estudo sobre os sistemas operativos móveis mais relevantes da actualidade. É igualmente feita uma abordagem mais profunda à arquitectura da plataforma móvel da Apple - o iOS – que serviu de base ao desenvolvimento de uma solução optimizada para localização e monitorização de dispositivos móveis. A monitorização implica uma utilização intensiva de recursos energéticos e de largura de banda que os dispositivos móveis da actualidade não estão aptos a suportar. Dado o grande consumo energético do GPS face à precária autonomia destes dispositivos, é apresentado um estudo em que se expõem soluções que permitem gerir de forma optimizada a utilização do GPS. O elevado custo dos planos de dados facultados pelas operadoras móveis é também considerado, pelo que são exploradas soluções que visam minimizar a utilização de largura de banda. Deste trabalho, nasce a aplicação EyeGotcha, que para além de permitir localizar outros utilizadores de dispositivos móveis de forma optimizada, permite também monitorizar as suas acções baseando-se num conjunto de regras pré-definidas. Estas acções são reportadas às entidades monitoras, de modo automatizado e sob a forma de alertas. Visionando-se a comercialização da aplicação, é portanto apresentado um modelo de negócio que permite obter receitas capazes de cobrirem os custos de manutenção de serviços, aos quais o funcionamento da aplicação móvel está subjugado.

EMMON: a system architecture for large- scale, dense and real-time WSNs

In spite of the significant amount of scientific work in Wireless Sensor Networks (WSNs), there is a clear lack of effective, feasible and usable WSN system architectures that address both functional and non-functional requirements in an integrated fashion. This poster abstract outlines the EMMON system architecture for large-scale, dense, real-time embedded monitoring. EMMON relies on a hierarchical network architecture together with integrated middleware and command&control mechanisms. It has been designed to use standard commercially– available technologies, while maintaining as much flexibility as possible to meet specific applications’ requirements. The EMMON WSN architecture has been validated through extensive simulation and experimental evaluation, including through a 300+ node test-bed, the largest WSN test-bed in Europe to date

Poster: EMMON: a WSN system architecture and toolset for large-scale and dense real-time embedded monitoring

Wireless sensor networks (WSNs) have attracted growing interest in the last decade as an infrastructure to support a diversity of ubiquitous computing and cyber-physical systems. However, most research work has focused on protocols or on specific applications. As a result, there remains a clear lack of effective and usable WSN system architectures that address both functional and non-functional requirements in an integrated fashion. This poster outlines the EMMON system architecture for large-scale, dense, real-time embedded monitoring. It provides a hierarchical communication architecture together with integrated middleware and command and control software. It has been designed to maintain as much as flexibility as possible while meeting specific applications requirements. EMMON has been validated through extensive analytical, simulation and experimental evaluations, including through a 300+ nodes test-bed the largest single-site WSN test-bed in Europe.

EMMON: a WSN system architecture for large scale and dense real-time embedded monitoring

Wireless sensor networks (WSNs) have attracted growing interest in the last decade as an infrastructure to support a diversity of ubiquitous computing and cyber-physical systems. However, most research work has focused on protocols or on specific applications. As a result, there remains a clear lack of effective, feasible and usable system architectures that address both functional and non-functional requirements in an integrated fashion. In this paper, we outline the EMMON system architecture for large-scale, dense, real-time embedded monitoring. EMMON provides a hierarchical communication architecture together with integrated middleware and command and control software. It has been designed to use standard commercially-available technologies, while maintaining as much flexibility as possible to meet specific applications requirements. The EMMON architecture has been validated through extensive simulation and experimental evaluation, including a 300+ node test-bed, which is, to the best of our knowledge, the largest single-site WSN test-bed in Europe to date.

Kinetic, Structural, and EPR Studies Reveal That Aldehyde Oxidoreductase from Desulfovibrio gigas Does Not Need a Sulfido Ligand for Catalysis and Give Evidence for a Direct Mo-C Interaction in a Biological System

J. Am. Chem. Soc., 2009, 131 (23), pp 7990–7998 DOI: 10.1021/ja809448r

A proof system for lock-free concurrency

Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Engenharia Informática

GLUTX1, a novel mammalian glucose transporter expressed in the central nervous system and insulin-sensitive tissues.

Based on homology with GLUT1-5, we have isolated a cDNA for a novel glucose transporter, GLUTX1. This cDNA encodes a protein of 478 amino acids that shows between 29 and 32% identity with rat GLUT1-5 and 32-36% identity with plant and bacterial hexose transporters. Unlike GLUT1-5, GLUTX1 has a short extracellular loop between transmembrane domain (TM) 1 and TM2 and a long extracellular loop between TM9 and TM10 that contains the only N-glycosylation site. When expressed in Xenopus oocytes, GLUTX1 showed strong transport activity only after suppression of a dileucine internalization motif present in the amino-terminal region. Transport activity was inhibited by cytochalasin B and partly competed by D-fructose and D-galactose. The Michaelis-Menten constant for glucose was approximately 2 mM. When translated in reticulocytes lysates, GLUTX1 migrates as a 35-kDa protein that becomes glycosylated in the presence of microsomal membranes. Western blot analysis of GLUTX1 transiently expressed in HEK293T cells revealed a diffuse band with a molecular mass of 37-50 kDa that could be converted to a approximately 35-kDa polypeptide following enzymatic deglycosylation. Immunofluorescence microscopy detection of GLUTX1 transfected into HEK293T cells showed an intracellular staining. Mutation of the dileucine internalization motif induced expression of GLUTX1 at the cell surface. GLUTX1 mRNA was detected in testis, hypothalamus, cerebellum, brainstem, hippocampus, and adrenal gland. We hypothesize that, in a similar fashion to GLUT4, in vivo cell surface expression of GLUTX1 may be inducible by a hormonal or other stimulus.

The postembryonic development of the ocellar system of Triatoma infestans Klug (Heteroptera: Reduviidae)

Simple eyes or ocelli coexist with compound eyes in many adult insects. The change in the morphology of the ocelli along the five larval instars of Triatoma infestans was studied by light and scanning electron microscopy. Our analysis showed that the development of the ocelli of these bugs occurs gradually along the larval life. The photoreceptor layer is present from the second-instar onwards. The cornea appears first at the imaginal stage and grows up to the 18-20th day after the last ecdysis, associated to an increase in the retinal mass. Findings are discussed in a comparative fashion and in relation to the functionality of the ocellar system in T. infestans.

Predictors of local malaria outbreaks: an approach to the development of an early warning system in Colombia

Risk factor surveillance is a complementary tool of morbidity and mortality surveillance that improves the likelihood that public health interventions are implemented in a timely fashion. The aim of this study was to identify population predictors of malaria outbreaks in endemic municipalities of Colombia with the goal of developing an early warning system for malaria outbreaks. We conducted a multiple-group, exploratory, ecological study at the municipal level. Each of the 290 municipalities with endemic malaria that we studied was classified according to the presence or absence of outbreaks. The measurement of variables was based on historic registries and logistic regression was performed to analyse the data. Altitude above sea level [odds ratio (OR) 3.65, 95% confidence interval (CI) 1.34-9.98], variability in rainfall (OR 1.85, 95% CI 1.40-2.44) and the proportion of inhabitants over 45 years of age (OR 0.17, 95% CI 0.08-0.38) were factors associated with malaria outbreaks in Colombian municipalities. The results suggest that environmental and demographic factors could have a significant ability to predict malaria outbreaks on the municipal level in Colombia. To advance the development of an early warning system, it will be necessary to adjust and standardise the collection of required data and to evaluate the accuracy of the forecast models.

Paralysis of ventilated newborn babies does not influence resistance of the total respiratory system.

Paralysis with pancuronium bromide is used in newborn infants to facilitate ventilatory support during respiratory failure. Changes in lung mechanics have been attributed to paralysis. The aim of this study was to examine whether or not paralysis per se has an influence on the passive respiratory mechanics, resistance (Rrs) and compliance (Crs) of the respiratory system in newborn infants. In 30 infants with acute respiratory failure, Rrs was measured during paralysis with pancuronium bromide and after stopping pancuronium bromide (group A). Rrs was also measured in an additional 10 ventilated infants in a reversed fashion (group B): Rrs was measured first in nonparalysed infants and then they were paralysed, mainly for diagnostic procedures, and the Rrs measurement repeated. As Rrs is highly dependent on lung volume, several parameters, that depend directly on lung volume were recorded: inspiratory oxygen fraction (FI,O2), arterial oxygen tension/alveolar oxygen tension (a/A) ratio and volume above functional residual capacity (FRC). In group A, the Rrs was not different during (0.236+/-0.09 cmH2O x s x mL(-1)) and after (0.237+/-0.07 cmH2O x s x mL(-1)) paralysis. Also, in group B, Rrs did not change (0.207+/-0.046 versus 0.221+/-0.046 cm x s x mL(-1) without versus with pancuronium bromide). FI,O2, a/A ratio and volume above FRC remained constant during paralysis. These data demonstrate that paralysis does not influence the resistance of the total respiratory system in ventilated term and preterm infants when measured at comparable lung volumes.