Tensile behaviour of wool fabric as a function of fabric pH

Wool fabric extensibility under a 5 N/cm load was observed to be greatest at the wool isoelectric point of pH 4.8 and lower at both pH 2.1 and pH 7.2. The impact of pH on fabric extensibility is similar to the variation in fabric hygral expansion previously observed. Fabric stress-strain curves at different pHs show that for a given fabric extension level, the work required to stretch a fabric was less at pH 2.1 than at pH 4.8. These results confirm the fact that the strength of wool fabric is at a maximum when the pH of the fibres is close to the isoelectric point.

Effects of pH on the stress-strain properties of wool fabric

In wool dyeing and finishing processes, fabric is often treated under conditions of different pHs and is subjected to a variety of physical and chemical environments. This work investigates fabric tensile properties at three different fabric pHs. Wool fabric extensibility under a 5 N/cm load was observed to be greatest at the wool isoelectric point of pH 4.8 and lower at both pH 2.1 and pH 7.2. The impact of pH on fabric extensibility was found to be similar to the variation in fabric hygral expansion previously observed. Fabric stress–strain curves at different pHs showed that for a given fabric extension level, the work required to stretch a fabric was less at pH 2.1 than at pH 4.8. These results suggest that the strength of wool fabric is at maximum when the pH of the fibres is close to the wool isoelectric point and that for consistency, the pH of fabric should be adjusted before standard strength tests are carried out.

Influence of pH on hygral expansion, relaxation shrinkage and extensibility of wool fabric

The standard tests for relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion of wool fabric take no account of pH. It is shown in this work that the pH of the solution in which wool fabric is relaxed as part of the procedure for measuring dimensional properties has a significant influence on the results. At around pH 4.8, which is close to the isoelectric point of wool, the hygral expansion reaches its greatest value and drops at both lower and higher pHs. A similar relationship between pH and extensibility of wool fabric was observed. Values of relaxation shrinkage were found to be dependant on pH. The reasons for the pH dependence of dimensional properties are discussed and these include changes in wool fiber swelling, yarn crimp and polymer relaxation phenomena with changes in pH.

Effects of ultrasonic treatment on wool fibre and fabric properties

The protein structures of wool, treated in fabric form with ultrasonics for different time durations, were analysed by X-ray diffraction (XRD) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR), in comparison with the wool without ultrasonic treatment. Fabric water absorption and tensile properties were measured in addition to the fibre micro-structure analysis. It is shown that while the ultrasonic treatment had little effect on the fibre crystallinity, some chemical structures in the protein were altered to some extent during the process. Disruption of fibre internal waxy lipids upon ultrasonic treatment provided the fibres with increased water absorption. Protein chains in the macro fibrils were shown to be rearranged to a more regular and less flexible structure, as a result of the ultrasonic treatment. Fabric tensile tests showed an increased tenacity and a reduced extensibility to the ultrasonically treated fabric. Prolonged ultrasonic treatment, however, significantly reduced both fabric tenacity and extensibility.

Changes in wool protein structure and fabric properties with ultrasonic treatment

Wool fabrics, ultrasonically treated for different time durations, were analysed by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR), differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), and thermo-gravimetric analysis (TGA), in comparison with the wool without ultrasonic treatment. Fabric tensile and thermal properties were measured in addition to the fibre micro structure analysis. Wool protein chains in the macro fibrils were shown to be rearranged to a more regular and less flexible structure, as a result of the ultrasonically treated fabric. Prolonged ultrasonic treatment, however, significantly reduced both fabric tenacity and extensibility. Wool treated with ultrasonics was found to have less mass loss and a higher thermal degradation temperature than that of without ultrasonic treatment and prolonged treated. DSC analysis showed that while ultrasonic treatment has little effect on the fibre crystallinity, an appropriate treatment can provide wool with increased water absorption.

The Figmentum Project: appropriating information and communication technologies to animate our urban fabric

This paper explores how we may design located information and communication technologies (ICTs) to foster community sentiment. It focuses explicitly on possibilities for ICTs to create new modalities of place through exploring key factors such as shared experiences, shared knowledge and shared authorship. To contextualise this discussion in a real world setting, this paper presents FIGMENTUM, a situated generative art application that was developed for and installed in a new urban development. FIGMENTUM is a non-authoritative, non-service based application that aims to trigger emotional and representational place-based communities. Out of this practice-led research comes a theory and a process for designing creative place-based ICT’s to animate our urban communities.

Controlled flexibility and lifecycle management of business processes through extensibility

Vendors provide reference process models as consolidated, off-the-shelf solutions to capture best practices in a given industry domain. Customers can then adapt these models to suit their specific requirements. Traditional process flexibility approaches facilitate this operation, but do not fully address it as they do not sufficiently take controlled change guided by vendors' reference models into account. This tension between the customer's freedom of adapting reference models, and the ability to incorporate with relatively low effort vendor-initiated reference model changes, thus needs to be carefully balanced. This paper introduces process extensibility as a new paradigm for customizing reference processes and managing their evolution over time. Process extensibility mandates a clear recognition of the different responsibilities and interests of reference model vendors and consumers, and is concerned with keeping the effort of customer-side reference model adaptations low while allowing sufficient room for model change.

In Bed with Autobiography: Unravelling the Fabric of Gender and Genre in Women’s Bed(room) Confessions

This thesis consists of a confessional narrative, What My Mother Doesn’t Know, and an accompanying exegesis, And Why I Should (Maybe) Tell Her. The creative piece employs the confessional mode as a subversive device in three separate narratives, each of which situates the bed as a site of resistance. The exegesis investigates how this self-disclosure in a domestic space flouts the governing rules of self-representation, specifically: telling the truth, respecting privacy and displaying normalcy. The female confession, I argue, creates an alternative space in women’s autobiography where notions of truth-telling can be undermined, the political dimensions of personal experience can be uncovered and the discourse of normality can be negotiated. In particular, women’s confessions told in, on or about the bed, dismantle the genre’s illusion of self and confirm the representative aspects of women’s experience. Framed within these parameters of power and powerlessness, the exegesis includes textual analyses of Charlotte Perkins Gilman’s The Yellow Wallpaper (1892), Tracey Emin’s My Bed (1999) and Lauren Slater’s Lying (2000), each of which exposes in a bedroom space, the author’s most obscure, intimate and traumatic experiences. Situated firmly within and against the genre’s traditional masculine domain, the exegesis also includes mediations on the creative work that validate the bed as my fabric for confession.

Business process extensibility

Vendors provide reference process models as consolidated, off-the-shelf solutions to capture best practices in a given industry domain. Customers can then adapt these models to suit their specific requirements. Traditional process flexibility approaches facilitate this operation, but do not fully address it as they do not sufficiently take controlled change guided by vendors’ reference models into account. This tension between the customer’s freedom of adapting reference models, and the ability to incorporate with relatively low effort vendor-initiated reference model changes, thus needs to be carefully balanced. This paper introduces process extensibility as a new paradigm for customising reference processes and managing their evolution over time. Process extensibility mandates a clear recognition of the different responsibilities and interests of reference model vendors and consumers, and is concerned with keeping the effort of customer-side reference model adaptations low while allowing sufficient room for model change.

Iterative design within a local community communication fabric

Our research considers the problem designing support for local community communications. We present a description of a suburban community communication fabric as revealed through observations of long-term use of a networked community noticeboard and the introduction of tailored email digest to registered noticeboard users. The paper contributes an understanding of how iterative situated design in a user community can help us to design for participation in the use of technologies that can support growth of a community communication fabric. The different roles of the situated display and email digest are discussed.

Understanding the fabric of social interactions for ridesharing through mining social networking sites

The design of applications for dynamic ridesharing or carpooling is often formulated as a matching problem of connecting people with an aligned set of transport needs within a reasonable interval of time and space. This problem formulation relegates social connections to being secondary factors. Technology assisted ridesharing applications that put the matching problem first have revealed that they suffer from being unable to address the factor of social comfort, even after adding friend features or piggybacking on social networking sites. This research aims to understand the fabric of social interactions through which ridesharing happens. We take an online observation approach in order to understand the fabric of social interactions for ridesharing that is happening in highly subscribed online groups of local residents. This understanding will help researchers to identify design challenges and opportunities to support ridesharing in local communities. This paper contributes a fundamental understanding of how social interactions and social comfort precede rideshare requests in local communities.

The fabric of transcultural collaboration: Interweaving the traditional Korean vocal form of p'ansori and the contemporary Japanese dance form of butoh in a transculturally Australian context

This practice-led research investigated the negotiation processes informing effective models of transcultural collaboration. In a creative project interweaving the image-based physicality of the Japanese dance form of butoh with the traditional Korean vocal style of p'ansori, a series of creative development cycles were undertaken with a team of artists from Australia and Korea, culminating in Deluge, a work of physical theatre. The development of interventions at 'sites of transcultural potential' resulted in improvements to the negotiation of interpersonal relationships and assisted in the emergence of a productive working environment in transculturally collaborative artistic practice.