Are coffee silverskin extracts safe for topical use? An in vitro and in vivo approach

Recent changes in regulatory requirements and social views on animal testing have incremented the development of reliable alternative tests for predicting skin and ocular irritation potential of products based on new raw materials. In this regard, botanical ingredients used in cosmetic products are among those materials, and should be carefully reviewed concerning the potential presence of irritant constituents. In particular, cosmetic products used on the face, in vicinity of the eyes or that may come in contact with mucous membranes, should avoid botanical ingredients that contain, or are suspected to contain, such ingredients. In this study, we aimed to evaluate the effect of a new cosmetic ingredient, namely, coffee silverskin (CS), with an in vitro skin and ocular irritation assay using reconstructed human epidermis, EpiSkin™, and human corneal epithelial model, SkinEthics™ HCE, and an in vivo assay. Three different extracts of CS were evaluated. The histology of the models after extracts applications was analysed. The in vitro results demonstrated that extracts were not classified as irritant and the histological analyses proved that extracts did not affect both models structure. The content of caffeine, 5-hydroxymethyl furfural and chlorogenic acid was quantified after the epidermal assay. The in vivo test carried out with the most promising extract (hydroalcoholic) showed that, with respect to irritant effects, these extracts can be regarded as safe for topical application.

A new alternative method for testing skin irritation using a human skin model: a pilot study.

Studies assessing skin irritation to chemicals have traditionally used laboratory animals; however, such methods are questionable regarding their relevance for humans. New in vitro methods have been validated, such as the reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model (Episkin®, Epiderm®). The comparison (accuracy) with in vivo results such as the 4-h human patch test (HPT) is 76% at best (Epiderm®). There is a need to develop an in vitro method that better simulates the anatomo-pathological changes encountered in vivo. To develop an in vitro method to determine skin irritation using human viable skin through histopathology, and compare the results of 4 tested substances to the main in vitro methods and in vivo animal method (Draize test). Human skin removed during surgery was dermatomed and mounted on an in vitro flow-through diffusion cell system. Ten chemicals with known non-irritant (heptylbutyrate, hexylsalicylate, butylmethacrylate, isoproturon, bentazon, DEHP and methylisothiazolinone (MI)) and irritant properties (folpet, 1-bromohexane and methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI/MI)), a negative control (sodiumchloride) and a positive control (sodiumlaurylsulphate) were applied. The skin was exposed at least for 4h. Histopathology was performed to investigate irritation signs (spongiosis, necrosis, vacuolization). We obtained 100% accuracy with the HPT model; 75% with the RHE models and 50% with the Draize test for 4 tested substances. The coefficients of variation (CV) between our three test batches were <0.1, showing good reproducibility. Furthermore, we reported objectively histopathological irritation signs (irritation scale): strong (folpet), significant (1-bromohexane), slight (MCI/MI at 750/250ppm) and none (isoproturon, bentazon, DEHP and MI). This new in vitro test method presented effective results for the tested chemicals. It should be further validated using a greater number of substances; and tested in different laboratories in order to suitably evaluate reproducibility.

Skin tissue engineering: medical problems and technological solutions.

In questo elaborato si affrontano problematiche cliniche legate ai traumi gravi della cute in cui è necessario intervenire chirurgicamente per ripristinare una situazione normale: si approfondisce lo studio della fisiologia del tessuto, la classificazione dei gradi delle ustioni della pelle, la guarigione delle ferite e la meccanica della cute. Il trapianto di tessuto autologo costituisce la soluzione più efficace e con minori complicazioni. Tuttavia il paziente potrebbe non presentare una superficie di cute disponibile sufficientemente estesa, per cui si ricorre ad altri metodi. In primo luogo, si effettuano degli allotrapianti di tessuto di donatore cadavere prelevati secondo le normative vigenti e conservati attraverso le varie tecniche, il cui sviluppo ha consentito una durata di conservazione maggiore; mentre la glicerolizzazione abbatte al 100% il rischio di trasmissione di patologie e lo sviluppo di microorganismi, la crioconservazione preserva la vitalità del tessuto. La chirurgia utilizzata per queste operazioni si avvale di tecnologie innovative come la Tecnologia a Pressione Negativa. Un'alternativa necessaria per sopperire all'ingente richiesta di tessuto di donatore sono i sostituti cutanei, che presentano un grande potenziale per il futuro. Per eliminare totalmente il rischio di rigetto sarebbe necessario personalizzare il costrutto utilizzando cellule autologhe, ma la ricerca è stata rallentata da minori investimenti da parte dell'industria biomedica, che si è maggiormente focalizzata sulla realizzazione di prodotti utilizzabili da un più ampio raggio di pazienti. Per queste ragioni, l'ingegneria tissutale della cute ha trovato più ampio campo di applicazione nel sistema dei test in vitro. A tale scopo sono stati creati dei protocolli certificati per testare la corrosività, la irritabilità e la vitalità del tessuto cutaneo, quali EpiDerm, EpiSkin e SkinEthic che si avvalgono dell'uso del metodo MMT e della spettrofotometria, che è diventata un supporto fondamentale per le scienze biologiche.