Vocabulário técnico e formação dos profissionais da área têxtil: necessidade, elaboração e avaliação de um dicionário de terminologia do vestuário

This research work deals with the compilation of a dictionary on clothing terminology intended to be used as a pedagogic tool as part of the teaching and learning process in the Textile Engineering Course at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte. The main terms were selected and assessed by a team of textile teachers and students with the objective to be structured as a conceptual body of information on the following sub-areas of clothing terminology: materials (fabrics and trimmings) and products (garments). This research comprises three main steps: (a) characterization and understanding of the technical vocabulary in the clothing area as well as the identification of a pedagogic demand for a dictionary on clothing terminology, clearly expressed by the textile lecturers and students involved in the assessment of the need and validation of this project development; (b) a proposal for a specific methodology for the compilation of the dictionary which could help the communication process in the lecturing of clothing terminology and (c) based on the terminological principles and the technique of focal groups the dictionary was assessed. The technique of focal groups was used in the first step. In the second step the technique used was that of the terminological methodology adapted to the teaching approach in the Textile Course. In the third step the technique of focal groups was again utilized. It was observed that the main concern of lecturers and students is the lack of a standardized vocabulary, which renders difficult the communication process in both the teaching and learning activities as well as the professional ones in the textile industries. Various aspects, which can overlap, cause this lack of standardization. The main ones pointed out by the study team in the focal groups are: usage of regional words or expressions, usage of foreign words or expressions, analogies, and the low level of formal education, mainly among the industry workers. Another aspect to be considered is the lack of textile literature written in the Portuguese language of Brazil. This evidence shows the importance of a clothing terminology dictionary which will benefit both the education and professional activties in this field of knowledge. This dictionary will also give a substantial contribution to terminological standardization in our research field. With view to fulfill this demand, a dictionary of clothing terminology was compiled with 760 main entries, according to the modern practice in terminology with the necessary modifications concerning our needs. The result of the dictionary assessment was very assertive regarding its structure, contents and possible use in various contexts. The team work emphasized their contribution to the standardization process of the terms that proved to be one of the most important and difficult aspects of this researh work. The significance of this structured terminological dictionary was confirmed by the focal group participants relating to its use for teaching and learning activities, as a reference book, as a source of technical information and also as a tool for pedagogic studies and planning, as well as a significant collaboration to the pedagogic practices in the textile engineering course at University or any other educational institution. Besides, this dictionary can also be used to supply information within the textile field. We are aware that the present work will not exhaust the objectives of this research due to its limitations in opposition to the vast complexity demanded by the compilation of a complete work including all the areas and sub-areas of textile engineering. However, it is an important source for dissemination of concepts on the field of clothing terminology and a tool to effective standardization of the terms used in this subject field

Smart design of scaffolds obtained by biofabrication for tissue engineering applications

A engenharia de tecidos é um domínio tecnológico emergente em rápido desenvolvimento que se destina a produzir substitutos viáveis para a restauração, manutenção ou melhoria da função dos tecidos ou órgãos humanos. Uma das estratégias mais predominantes em engenharia de tecidos envolve crescimento celular sobre matrizes de suporte (scaffolds), biocompatíveis e biodegradáveis. Estas matrizes devem possuir não só elevadas propriedades mecânicas e vasculares, mas também uma elevada porosidade. Devido à incompatibilidade destes dois parâmetros, é necessário desenvolver estratégias de simulação de forma a obter estruturas optimizadas. A previsão real das propriedades mecânicas, vasculares e topológicas das matrizes de suporte, produzidas por técnicas de biofabricação, é muito importante para as diversas aplicações em engenharia de tecidos. A presente dissertação apresenta o estado da arte da engenharia de tecidos, bem como as técnicas de biofabricação envolvidas na produção de matrizes de suporte. Para o design optimizado de matrizes de suporte foi adoptada uma metodologia de design baseada tanto em métodos de elementos finitos para o cálculo do comportamento mecânico, vascular e as optimizações topológicas, como em métodos analíticos para a validação das simulações estruturais utilizando dados experimentais. Considerando que as matrizes de suporte são estruturas elementares do tipo LEGO, dois tipos de famílias foram consideradas, superfícies não periódicas e as superfícies triplas periódicas que descrevem superfícies naturais. Os objectivos principais desta dissertação são: i) avaliar as técnicas existentes de engenharia de tecidos; ii) avaliar as técnicas existentes de biofabricação para a produção de matrizes de suporte; iii) avaliar o desempenho e comportamento das matrizes de suporte; iv) implementar uma metodologia de design de matrizes de suporte em variáveis tais como a porosidade, geometria e comportamento mecânico e vascular por forma a auxiliar o processo de design; e por fim, v) validar experimentalmente a metodologia adoptada.

Estudo da flamabilidade e resistência à chama de compósito de poliéster insaturado e fibra da folha do abacaxizeiro (PALF)

In the present research work, composites were prepared using pine apple leaf fibres (PALF) as reinforcement with unsaturated polyester resin as matrix, incorporating with fire retardant at different compositions. The PALF was obtained from the decortication of pine apple leaves obtained from Ramada 4 from Ielmo Marinho in the State of Rio Grande do Norte. The unsaturated polyester resin and the catalyzer were bought from the local establishment. The fire retardant, aluminium tri-hydroxide - Al(OH)3 was donated by Alcoa Alumínio S.A and was used in the proportions of 20%, 40% and 60% w/w. Initially the fibres were treated with 2% NaOH for 1 hour, to remove any impurities present on the fibre surface, such as wax, fat, pectin and pectate, in order to have a better adsorption of the fibres with the matrix as well as the flame retardant. The fibre mat was prepared in a mat preparator by immersion, developed in the Textile Engineering Laboratory, at the UFRN. The composites (300x300x3 mm) were prepared by compression molding and the samples (150x25x3 mm) for analysis of the properties were cut randomly using a laser cutter. Some of the cut samples were used to measure the smoke emission and fire resistance using UL94 standard. Mechanical tension-extension and flexural properties were carried in CTGás RN and the Laboratório de Metais e Ensaios Mecânicos Engenharia de Materiais UFRN , as well as SEM studies were carried out at Núcleo de Estudos em Petróleo e Gás Natural - UFRN . From the observed results, it was noted that, there was no marked influence of the fire retardant on the mechanical properties. Also in the water absorption test, the quantity of water absorbed was less in the sample with higher concentration of fire retardant. It was also observed that the increase in the proportion of the fire retardant increased the time of burning, may be due to the compactness of the composite due to the presence of fire retardant as a filling material even though it was meant to reduce the rate of inflammability of the composite

Desenvolvimento de uma desfribadeira para obtenção da fibra da folha do abacaxi

In 1998 the first decorticator was developed in the Textile Engineering Laboratory and patented for the purpose of extracting fibres from pineapple leaves, with the financial help from CNPq and BNB. The objective of the present work was to develop an automatic decorticator different from the first one with a semiautomatic system of decortication with automatic feeding of the leaves and collection of the extracted fibres. The system is started through a command system that passes information to two engines, one for starting the beater cylinder and the other for the feeding of the leaves as well as the extraction of the decorticated fibres automatically. This in turn introduces the leaves between a knife and a beater cylinder with twenty blades (the previous one had only 8 blades). These blades are supported by equidistant flanges with a central transmission axis that would help in increasing the number of beatings of the leaves. In the present system the operator has to place the leaves on the rotating endless feeding belt and collect the extracted leaves that are being carried out through another endless belt. The pulp resulted form the extraction is collected in a tray through a collector. The feeding of the leaves as well as the extraction of the fibres is controlled automatically by varying the velocity of the cylinders. The semi-automatic decorticator basically composed of a chassis made out of iron bars (profile L) with 200cm length, 91 cm of height 68 cm of width. The decorticator weighs around 300Kg. It was observed that the increase in the number of blades from 8 to twenty in the beater cylinder reduced the turbulence inside the decorticator, which helped to improve the removal of the fibres without any problems as well as the quality of the fibres. From the studies carried out, from each leaf 2,8 to 4,5% of fibres can be extracted. This gives around 4 to 5 tons of fibres per hectare, which is more than that of cotton production per hectare. This quantity with no doubt could generate jobs to the people not only on the production of the fibres but also on their application in different areas

Estudo comparativo das propriedades mecânicas em compósitos da fibra modal e poliester

In the present work, three composites with distinct reinforcements (polyester, modal e polyester + modal), all if a unsaturated orthophthalic polyester resin as matrix were used, in order to conduct a comparative study by mechanical tests and water absorption. The fibre mats were prepared in a mat preparatory by immersion developed in the Textile Engineering Laboratory. The composites were manufactured using a closed mould process by compression using an unsaturated orthophthalic polyester resin as matrix and 1% MEK (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) as an initiator. In each composite twelve samples with the dimensions of 150x25x3 mm were cut randomly for the mechanical analysis (tension x extension, three points bending and water absorption and Scanning Electron Micsroscopy). The mechanical tests were carried out in the Laboratório de Metais e Ensaios Mecânicos UFRN . All the analyses were carried out according to the ASTM norms. The resultant samples from the mechanical analysis were subjected for the Scanning Electron Microscopy analysis. Based on the results obtained, it was observed that the reinforced composite with two fibres (modal + polyester) presented better results in comparison to the other two composites both in the tension/extension as well on the three point bending tests. In the water absorption test, it was possible to observe an equilibrium in the water absorption by the modal and polyester composite, due to the union of the two fibres. In the SEM images, the regions of rupture in the composites as well as the adsorption between the fiber and the matrix could be observed

Fabricação de eco-composito com a fibra de lã canina

The Sustainability has been evidence in the world today; organizations have sought to be more and more into this philosophy in their processes, whether products or attendance. In the present work were manufactured eco-composites with animal fiber (dog wool) that is currently discarded into the environment without any use. The fibers were characterized and made matting (non-woven). The phases of the project were consisted to develop methods and to convert these fibers (booster) blended with polyester resin (matrix) in different proportions (10%, 20% and 30%) at the composite. Were studied fiber characteristics, mechanical properties of the composites, water absorption and scanning electron microscopy. Initially, the fibers were treated with solution of sodium hydroxide of 0.05 mols, and then taken to matting preparing at the textile engineering laboratory - UFRN. The composites were made by compression molding, using an orthophthalic polyester resin as matrix and 1% MEK (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) as initiator (catalyst). To evaluate the mechanical tests (tensile and flexural) and water absorption were made twelve specimens with dimensions 150x25x3 mm were cut randomly. According to the standard method, tensile tests (ASTM 3039) bending tests (ASTM D790) were performed at the mechanical testing of metals at laboratory UFRN. The results of these tests showed that the composite reinforced with 30% had a better behavior when exposed to tension charge; while on the three points bending test showed that the composite reinforced with 10% had a better behavior. In the water absorption test it was possible to see that the highest absorption happened on the composite reinforced with 30%. In the micrographs, it was possible to see the regions of rupture and behavior of the composite (booster / matrix)

Influência do retardante de chamas nas propriedades mecânicas e flamabilidade em compósitos poliméricos de epóxi/fibra de curauá

Currently, there is a great search for materials derived from renewable sources. The vegetable fibers as reinforcement for polymer matrixes, has been used as an alternative to replace synthetic fibres, being biodegradable and of low cost. The present work aims to develop a composite material with epoxy resin reinforced with curauá fibre with the addition of alumina trihydrate (aluminum hydroxide, Al(OH)3) as a flame retardant, which was used in proportions of 10 %, 20% and 30% of the total volume of the composite. The curauá fibers have gone through a cleaning process with an alkaline bath of sodium hydroxide (NaOH ), parallelized by hand and cut carding according to the default length . They were molded composites with fibers 30cm. Composites were molded in a Lossy Mold with unidirectional fibres in the proportion of 20% of the total volume of the composite. The composites were prepared in the Chemical Processing Laboratory of the Textile Engineering Department at UFRN. To measure the performance of the material, tests for the resistance to traction and flexion were carried out. with samples that were later analyzed in the Electronic Microscopy Apparatus (SEM ). The composites showed good mechanical properties by the addition of flame retardant and in some cases, leaving the composite more vulnerable to breakage. These mechanical results were analyzed by chi-square statistical test at the 5% significance level to check for possible differences between the composite groups. Flammability testing was conducted based on the standard Underwriters Laboratory 94 and the material showed a satisfactory result taking their average burn rate (mm / min) decreasing with increasing addition of the flame retardant composite.

Utilização de descarte de resíduos têxtil (poliamida/poliester), como agregado, em concreto

Neste trabalho são apresentadas algumas características físicas, vantagens e viabilidade do uso do pó de tecido, proveniente do processamento de resíduos têxteis que são descartados em confecções em geral. A produção e utilização desse tipo de pó diminui o impacto ambiental e se mostra viável economicamente, pois é produzido facilmente a partir do processamento de resíduos, que seriam descartados na natureza. O presente trabalho mostra o estudo da produção do pó de tecido e a sua substituição parcial do agregado miúdo natural na produção de concretos de cimento Portland convencionais. Para comprovar a viabilidade técnica e econômica do uso do pó de tecido foram analisadas características do agregado como sua composição granulométrica, e seu comportamento nos ensaios de abatimento tronco de cone (Slump Test). Uma relação água-cimento também foi convencionada a um concreto usual com resistência esperada de 27MPa. Com estes dados foi definido um traço para o concreto utilizando 5% e 15% de agregado pó de tecido, substituindo a areia. A pesquisa apresenta os resultados de resistência à compressão simples dos corpos de prova cilíndricos de concreto aos 28 dias. Verificou-se que as amostras não apresentaram diferenças significativas de resistência entre si, tão pouco com relação às resistências de um concreto convencional produzido somente com agregado miúdo natural. Entretanto, houve uma melhora nos resultados dos ensaios à compressão, principalmente no concreto com 15% de pó de tecido.

Relatório de actividade profissional : mestrado em Engenharia do Ambiente

O presente Relatório de Actividade Profissional, foi elaborado com vista à obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Engenharia do Ambiente, conferido pela Universidade Lusófona de Humanidades e Tecnologias. Neste relatório apresentam-se actividades desenvolvidas em contexto real de trabalho, quer no projecto de investigação ambiental, levado a cabo na Universidade do Minho (Pólo de Braga) ao longo do ano de 2000, com duração de 12 meses; quer de Gestão Ambiental, em ambiente industrial, mais concretamente na empresa Corticeira Amorim – Industria, S.A. – Grupo Amorim, que decorreu ao longo de 4 anos, entre 2000 – 2004. As actividades desenvolvidas em ambos os projectos, tiveram sempre como base de trabalho, a Missão e a Visão das instituições/organizações referidas, os requisitos ambientais legais aplicáveis e outros compromissos assumidos por elas. Na Universidade do Minho (UM), investigou-se o nível de degradação dos corantes azo, utilizados no processo de tingimento da indústria têxtil, pela aplicação de diferentes estirpes de levedura. Na Corticeira Amorim – Indústria, S.A., implementou-se um Sistema de Gestão Ambiental, com vista à sua certificação pela norma ISO 14001.

Obtenção de filtro cerâmico a partir da diatomita e casca de arroz carbonizada visando tratamento de efluente têxtil

The effluents released by the textile industry have high concentrations of alkali, carbohydrates, proteins, in addition to colors containing heavy metals. Therefore, a filter was prepared aiming primarily to the removal of color. In order to prepare this filter, rice hulls and diatomite were used, which have in their structure, basically amorphous hydrated silica. The silica exists in three crystalline forms: quartz, tridymite and cristobalite. In accordance with the above considerations, this study was divided into two stages; the first corresponds to the preparation of the filter and the second to carry out the tests in the effluent/filter in order to verify the efficiency of the color removal. First, the raw material was subjected to a chemical analysis and XRD, and then the diatomite was mixed, via humid, with a planetarium windmill with 20 %, 40 %, 60 % and 80 % of rice husk ash. To the mixture, 5 % carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) was added as a binder at room temperature. The samples were uniaxially compacted into metallic matrix of 0.3 x 0.1 cm² of area at a pressure of 167 MPa by means of hydraulic press and then sintered at temperatures of 1,000 °C, 1,200 °C and 1,400 °C for 1 h and submitted to granulometry test using laser, linear retraction, water absorption, apparent porosity and resistance to bending, DTA, TMA and XRD. To examine the pore structure of the samples scanning electron microscope (SEM) was used. Also tests were carried out in a mercury porosimeter to verify the average size of the pores and real density of the samples. In the second stage, samples of the effluent were collected from a local industry, whose name will be preserved, located in Igapó, in the State of Rio Grande do Norte - RN. The effluent was first pretreated before filtration and then subjected to a treatment of flotation. The effluent was then characterized before and after filtration, with parameters of color, turbidity, suspended solids, pH, chemical and biochemical oxygen demand (COD and BOD). Thus, through the XRD analysis the formation of cristobalite α in all samples was observed. The best average size of pore was found to be 1.75 μm with 61.04 % apparent porosity, thus obtaining an average 97.9 % color removal and 99.8 % removal of suspended solid

Desenvolvimento de membranas porosas de alumina para fins de tratamento de efluente industrial têxtil

Textile production has been considered as an activity of high environmental impact due to the generation of large volumes of waste water with high load of organic compounds and strongly colored effluents, toxic and difficult biodegradability. This thesis deals with obtaining porous alumina ceramic membranes for filtration of textile effluent in the removal of contaminants, mainly color and turbidity. Two types of alumina with different particle sizes as a basis for the preparation of formulation for mass production of ceramic samples and membranes. The technological properties of the samples were evaluated after using sintering conditions: 1,350ºC-2H, 1,450ºC-30M, 1,450ºC-2H, 1,475ºC-30M and 1,475ºC-2H. The sintered samples were characterized by XRD, XRF, AG, TG, DSC, DL, AA, MEA, RL, MRF-3P, SEM and Intrusion Porosimetry by Mercury. After the characterization, a standard membrane was selected with their respective sintering condition for the filterability tests. The effluent was provided by a local Textile Industry and characterized at the entry and exit of the treatment plant. A statistical analysis was used to study the effluent using the following parameters: pH, temperature, EC, SS, SD, oil and grease, turbidity, COD, DO, total phosphorus, chlorides, phenols, metals and fecal coliform. The filtered effluent was evaluated by using the same parameters. These results demonstrate that the feasibility of the use of porous alumina ceramic membranes for removing contaminants from textile effluent with improved average pore size of 0.4 micrometre (distribution range varying from 0,025 to 2.0 micrometre), with total porosity of 29.66%, and average percentages of color removal efficiency of 89.02%, 92.49% of SS, turbidity of 94.55%, metals 2.70% (manganese) to 71.52% (iron) according to each metal and COD removal of 72.80%

Aplicação da metodologia seis sigma em uma empresa de médio porte do setor têxtil

The Six Sigma methodology has received considerable attention in the last two decades. This is due to its great potencial to reduce processes variability, through the use of accurate data, facts and statistical techniques. The methodology seeks to improve the quality of products and services, maximizing the company s financial performance. Specifically, its implementation and results in medium-sized textile enterprises is unknow, although there are signs that the methodology can be applied with success. Considering this scenario, the goal of this research is to describe the application of the Six Sigma methodology in a médium-sized textile company specialized in the production of male shirts in the satate of Rio Grande do Norte, Brazil. First, we present a literature review, seeking to highlight the themes of quality, Six Sigma and its methodology for improvement. Then, we show the implementation of the project selected, depicting the steps and procedures that must be performed. The results confirm the efficiency of Six Sigma in providing significant gains to companies. It is observed substantial improvements in the speed of product development and the flexibility of the parts produced, reducing the process lead time from 12.5 to 6.2 days, which means a performance improvement of over 50%. This leads also to cultural and behaviour change, creating motivation for implementation of new projects and a continuous search for knowledge

Caracterização do efluente líquido no processo de beneficiamento do índigo têxtil

The great diversity of the textile industries activities causes the formation of wastewaters with high complex characteristics during the productive process, according to the industrial process used. The principal aim of the present work is the characterization of the wastewater from the textile industry that process the indigo, located in the Industrial District of Natal-RN, to know the contaminante load of each stage of the process and the framing of the wastewater with the standards of act of receiving of the System of Treatment of Wastewater of the Industrial District of Natal-RN SITEL-DIN, operated for the Company of Waters and Sewers of the RN CAERN. It was analyzed the following properties and pollutants agents: temperature; pH; alcalinity; color; COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand); total and suspended solids; heavy metals, thermotolerants coliformes, turbidity, dissolved oxygen and electrical conductivity. As conclusion it is distinguished that the wastewater did not get resulted satisfactory, according to comparisons with other sources, in only three parameters: turbidity, dissolved oxygen and electrical conductivity, however none of these parameters is criteria of acts of receiving of the SITEL-DIN,therefore the wastewater if finds inside of normality. After the analysis of the obtained results it was verified that SITEL-DIN is indispensable for completing the wastewater treatment

Caracterização de Efluente Têxtil e Proposta de Tratamento

Textile industry deals with a high diversity of processes and generation of wastewaters with a high content of pollutant material. Before being disposed of in water bodies, a pre-treatment of the effluent is carried out, which is sometimes ineffective. In order to be properly treated, physical and chemical properties of the effluent must be known, as well as the pollutant agents that might be present in it. This has turned out to be a great problem in the textile industry, for there is a variety of processes and the pollutant load is very diversified. The characterization of the effluent allows the identification of most critical points and, as a consequence, the most appropriate treatment procedure to be employed, may be chosen. This study presents the results obtained after characterizing the effluent of a textile industry that comprises knitting, dyeing and apparel sections, processing mainly polyester/cotton articles. In this work, twenty samples of the effluent were collected, and related to the changes in production. From the results, a statistical evaluation was applied, determined in function of the rate of flow. The following properties and pollutants agents were quantitatively analysed: temperature; pH; sulfides; chlorine; alcalinity; chlorides; cianides; phenols; color; COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand); TOC (Total Organic Carbon); oil and grease; total, fixed and volatile solids; dissolved, fixed and volatile solids; suspended, fixed and volatile solids; setteable solids and heavy metals such as cadmium, copper, lead, chromium, tin, iron, zinc and nickel. Analyses were carried out according to ABNT NBR 13402 norm, based upon Standard Methods for the Examination of Water and Wastewater. As a consequence, a global treatment proposal is presented, involving clean production practices as contaminant load reducer, followed by conventional (biological) treatment

Aplicação da água residuária das salinas no tratamento de efluente têxtil

The treatment of colored and alkaline effluent has been a challenge to the textile industry. An alternative to remove the colors of those effluents is applying magnesium chloride as a coagulant agent. The magnesium ion, in high pH, hydrolyzes itself, forming the magnesium hydroxide which has a large adsorptive area and positive electrostatic charges able to act as an efficient coagulant. The bittern wastewater from the salt industries has been studied as a potential font of this magnesium ion. Nowadays, this bittern wastewater is evicted into the sea, without any treatment or other use. This thesis has evaluated the potential of applying the wastewater from the salt industries in the treatment of dyeing effluent containing indigo dye and alkaline pH. All the experiments were made in jar tests simulating the chemical coagulation, flocculation and decantation steps ranging the pH and the concentration of magnesium ion. Were obtained removals between 96% and 76% for turbidity, apparent color, and true color, respectively, using 200mg/L Mg2+. The reduction of costs with acid, when were used the salt industries wastewater, comparing with Al2(SO4)3, was 62%. For the degradation of organic matter remaining in the clarified, around 900 mg/L, was applyed the advanced process of oxidation: photo-Fenton. The preliminary results showed 57% reduction in DOC. According to the results obtained, the salt industries wastewater can be applied, as coagulant, in the physical-chemical treatment of the denim dyeing wastewater, so it is not necessary a previous adjust of pH, efficiently and economically