Computational linguistic systematization of a lexicon from the ibitinga embroidery industry conceptual domain

This work discusses a proposition for organizing the lexical items from the conceptual domain labeled THE EMBROIDERY INDUSTRY OF IBITINGA in terms of a natural ontology. It also aims to establish the alignment between this ontology and the bases WordNet.Pr and WordNet.Br. © 2009 IEEE.

Designs for church embroidery /

Mode of access: Internet.

Embroidery stitches,

Mode of access: Internet.

The Ladies' work-table book; containing clear and practical instructions in plain and fancy needlework, embroidery, knitting, netting, and crochet. With numerous engravings ...

Mode of access: Internet.

Nourishing or polluting : redefining the role of waste in the fashion system

Waste is intrinsic to the fashion system. Fashion is predicated on built-in obsolescence, and as such outmoded garments are rapidly discarded to charity shops or landfill. However, the story of fashion is also one of abundance and extravagance in design ideas. Every season there are new design details – prints, embroidery, embellishments, shapes and textures. This excess of ideas is in itself another form of waste, albeit one that is culturally nourishing. The grave of a fashion garment may also be the grave of a season’s research and creativity. This paper compares the tangible waste of the industry with its intangible waste, namely fashion’s creativity and cultural excess. Fashion’s excess and abundance of trends and ideas makes any move to curb the environmental impact difficult. For all practitioners of fashion – whether designers or consumers – the waste and excess inherent in the fashion system is a difficult ethical terrain to negotiate. However, inverting the wasteful phases of the production cycle can help reframe waste from pollution to a source of nourishment for future practice. While creative excesses of designers may be ‘wasted’ after a season, fashion styles and tropes are recycled and reinvented, with the once passé styles and design ideas from previous years revalorized and returned into the fashion system. Similarly, material garments acquire new value through entering or re-entering the second hand or vintage markets. Design processes can utilise pre or post-consumer textile waste, or eliminate waste through design. In these processes, waste becomes the primary source of nourishment for future fashion cycles.

Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

Kuva tikkeinä kankaalla : Kokemuksia PE-design 6.0 -kirjontakuvion suunnitteluohjelman kahden automaattisen tekniikan käytettävyydestä

The aim of the thesis was to compare the correspondence of the outcome a computer assisted program appearance compared to the original image. The aspect of the study was directed to embroidery with household machines. The study was made from the usability point of view with Brother's PE-design 6.0 embroidery design programs two automatic techniques; multicoloured fragment design and multicoloured stitch surface design. The study's subject is very current because of the fast development of machine embroidery. The theory is based on history of household sewing machines, embroidery sewing machines, stitch types in household sewing machines, embroidery design programs as well as PE-design 6.0 embroidery design program's six automatic techniques. Additionally designing of embroidery designs were included: original image, digitizing, punching, applicable sewing threads as well as the connection between embroidery designs and materials used on embroidery. Correspondences of sewn appearances were examined with sewing experimental methods. 18 research samples of five original image were sewn with both techniques. Experiments were divided into four testing stages in design program. Every testing stage was followed by experimental sewing with Brother Super Galaxie 3100D embroidery machine. Experiments were reported into process files and forms made for the techniques. Research samples were analysed on images syntactic bases with sensory perception assessment. Original images and correspondence of the embroidery appearances were analysed with a form made of it. The form was divided into colour and shape assessment in five stage-similarity-scale. Based on this correspondence analysis it can be said that with both automatic techniques the best correspondence of colour and shape was achieved by changing the standard settings and using the makers own thread chart and edited original image. According to the testing made it is impossible to inform where the image editing possibilities of the images are sufficient or does the optimum correspondence need a separate program. When aiming at correspondence between appearances of two images the computer is unable to trace by itself the appearance of the original image. Processing a computer program assisted embroidery image human perception and personal decision making are unavoidable.

Ateljeevaatteen valmistuksen työtavat Salon Kaarlo Forsmanin tuotannossa

The objective of the present study was to increase knowledge about the atelier culture of recent history, especially about the ways in which atelier clothes were made. I look at the ways of dress-making in the production of a renowned atelier, Salon Kaarlo Forsman. I also give a general outline of the atelier. The studying method I used was triangulation, which is a typical approach in case studies of recent history. My data include 23 dresses by the Salon Forsman, theme interviews of four of the Salon workers and one mannequin, data from my research work, as well as press material and archives. The basis of the analysis of these materials was a theme frame that I had put together with the help of pre-understanding. I then completed and defined the theme frame on the basis of the analysis of the data. I also analyzed the dresses in the fashion photos in the press material. Salon Kaarlo Forsman represents a certain cultural period, the years 1937-1986, and a place where a woman could have individual clothes made for her, from hats to fur coats. The atelier was particularly known for embroidery with beads, draping, and fantastic cuttings designed by the owner, fashion designer Kaarlo Forsman. I draw an outline of the work and practices of the atelier, but also that of Kaarlo Forsman’s life work, as he had a great influence on the sewing methods atelier clothes. Mr. Forsman was able to stretch the first period of modern fashion well into the third period by refusing new, labor-saving methods and sticking to individually designer clothes to the end of his enterprise. The crucial practices in the atelier that I present in this study are fitting, designing, finishing and sewing, as well as beading and the decoration of dresses. I compare the activity, practices and dress-making methods in the Forsman atelier to that of Haute Couture in Paris, which served as model for Finnish fashion houses. I point out the similarities and differences.

Tia, a senhora é negra porque quer: narrativas que bordam memória e identidades

Esta pesquisa buscou conhecer as concepções de negritude e afrobrasilidade e compreender como as relações raciais se estabelecem no cotidiano do grupo de estudantes que integram o Coral de Vozes do Amanhã do CIEP Santos Dumont localizado no Bairro Alto Independência da cidade de Petrópolis, Região Serrana do Estado do Rio de Janeiro. A matéria prima para o desenvolvimento desta pesquisa foram as narrativas orais e escritas desses sujeitos, que emergiram em sala de aula, além de tapetes bordados por eles no contexto de oficinas de textos literários infanto-juvenis de autores contemporâneos africanos e afrobrasileiros. Os resultados obtidos no decorrer desse processo poderão se transformar em fontes significativas, de modo a contribuir para a desconstrução do racismo, preconceito e desigualdades raciais, além de chamar a atenção para que se tenha escuta atenta a muitas vozes que foram historicamente silenciadas. Minha pesquisa priorizou a emergência dessas narrativas em sala de aula, que foram meu material de análise, além de uma tentativa de interferência no currículo, considerando os saberes, experiências, histórias e memórias desse grupo de crianças e jovens.

Uma ideia toda azul: as figuras de linguagem como recursos linguístico-expressivos

Esta dissertação é um estudo sobre a expressividade dos contos de fadas da obra Uma ideia toda azul, de Marina Colasanti. Torna-se inovadora por se tratar de textos curtos, valorizando o fantástico e pelos desfechos de seus contos, diferentes dos tradicionais. Trabalhando com reis, rainhas, príncipes, princesas e unicórnios, a autora utiliza figuras de linguagem que valorizam o texto, tornando cada vez mais encantador e instigante o seu bordado de palavras. Apresentam-se no decorrer do trabalho reflexões acerca das narrativas orais, as teorias referentes aos contos populares, a compreensão de literatura infantil, os contos de fadas, Marina Colasanti na cultura brasileira e a narrativa fantástica, um resumo da obra Uma ideia toda azul, a estilística como base da pesquisa e a essência das figuras de linguagem. Busca-se descrever e analisar as figuras mais produtivas: metáfora, personificação, hipérbole, sinestesia e eufemismo. São recursos linguísticos que conferem aos contos de Colasanti a expressividade que seduz o leitor de todas as idades. A realidade e a fantasia se articulam harmoniosamente em um texto que, ao ressaltar o fantástico, desvela os sentidos universais inerentes ao ser humano de todas as épocas

Monsenhor Airosa - pedagogo - empresário : história do colégio de regeneração de Braga : (1869-1931)

Tese de doutoramento, Educação (História da Educação), Universidade de Lisboa, Instituto de Educação, 2015

Poetry and feminine crafts in the letters of the young Marquise of Alorna (1750-1839)

abstract : Taking as a starting point the association between embroidery and language conveyed by the Greek myth of Filomela and Procne, this article examines the relationship between social status and ornaments like embroidery and lace. In order to illustrate this relationship an example is selected form the letters exchanged between the Marquise of Alorna and her Father where a connection is established between the production of these 'feminine' crafts, women's culture and womens writing, in the XVIIIth Century

Paddy Hartley: of faces and facades

Paddy Hartley's work is primarily concerned with the ways in which the human face can be repaired, manipulated and recontextualised, and the questions these processes raise about our concepts of beauty and disfigurement. Incorporating surgical and pharmaceutical equipment as well as steel, scrap metal, digital embroidery and textiles, Hartley sets out a critique of how we think about the face today. Taking as a starting point records of facially injured servicemen of the First World War and the pioneering surgery they underwent, Project Facade examines the impact of disfigurement on the human psyche, as well as tracing the development of early facial reconstructive surgery. His Face Corsets, meanwhile, examines attitudes towards cosmetic surgery and the beauty industry, providing a non-surgical means to brutally mimic the results of cosmetic procedures and beyond. The series gained notoriety and success in a wide variety of popular publications both nationally and internationally, and continue to feature in contemporary textiles and fashion publications. Paddy Hartley: Of Faces and Facades brings together these works in book form for the first time, presenting previously unpublished texts from David Houston Jones and Marjorie Gehrhardt, as well as drawings and photographs which document a remarkable creative process and a history that is still insufficiently explored.

From the Hill

Q&A: Lincoln Peirce '85 on his comic strip hero, Big Nate, life as a professional artist, his new book series, and inspiration from the Colby Art Department The Alchemist: Sculptor Stefanie Rocknak turns wood into captured moments of expression Trading Campfires for Barbecues: There's more to "cooking COOT" than mixing and masticating Empowered in Kabul: Sulaiman Nasseri helps Afghan women gain independence through embroidery At Home on the Range: Willard Wyman's latest novel explores the transitory ideal of the Old West (Review) Be Careful What You Wish For (Review) For This Rookie Cop, All the Streets Are Mean (Review) Recent Releases Economy Remains Cool? Colby Career Center looks to "warm market"

"Bordados do Seridó" : uma experiência etnográfica com as bordadeiras do município de Caicó-RN

The narratives that circulate Caicó tell us that the activity of embroidery would have come to town by the eighteenth century, by the Portuguese colonizers. Initially, the embroidery worked as a constitutive element in the formation of women, especially in the construction of the role of "talented ladies", was later characterized in a income generating activity moving strongly the informal sector of the local economy. In addition to source of income, the practice of embroiderers is redefining the craft tradition, transforming the embroidery on one of the symbols of identity of the city as it reaches other markets, carrying the name "Caicó embroidery". The research aims to investigate the dynamics of artisanal embroidery production, within the family circle and its consequences after its entry in the commercial sphere. It also seeks to investigate how the activity operates within a context in which the subjects (embroiderers and intermediaries) and their distinct negotiations trigger certain discourses, particularly those related to identity and authenticity on behalf of economic, political and cultural purposes