Resource management of dynamic coastal environments using synoptic measures from remote sensing

In addition to providing vital ecological services, coastal areas of North Carolina provide prized areas for habitation, recreation, and commercial fisheries. However, from a management perspective, the coasts of North Carolina are highly variable and complex. In-water constituents such as nutrients, suspended sediments, and chlorophyll a concentration can vary significantly over a broad spectrum of time and space scales. Rapid growth and land-use change continue to exert pressure on coastal lands. Coastal environments are also very vulnerable to short-term (e.g., hurricanes) and long-term (e.g., sea-level rise) natural changes that can result in significant loss of life, economic loss, or changes in coastal ecosystem functioning. Hence, the dynamic nature, effects of human-induced change over time, and vulnerability of coastal areas make it difficult to effectively monitor and manage these important state and national resources using traditional data collection technologies such as discrete monitoring stations and field surveys. In general, these approaches provide only a sparse network of data over limited time and space scales and generally are expensive and labor-intensive. Products derived from spectral images obtained by remote sensing instruments provide a unique vantage point from which to examine the dynamic nature of coastal environments. A primary advantage of remote sensing is that the altitude of observation provides a large-scale synoptic view relative to traditional field measurements. Equally important, the use of remote sensing for a broad range of research and environmental applications is now common due to major advances in data availability, data transfer, and computer technologies. To facilitate the widespread use of remote sensing products in North Carolina, the UNC Coastal Studies Institute (UNC-CSI) is developing the capability to acquire, process, and analyze remotely sensed data from several remote sensing instruments. In particular, UNC-CSI is developing regional remote sensing algorithms to examine the mobilization, transport, transformation, and fate of materials between coupled terrestrial and coastal ocean systems. To illustrate this work, we present the basic principles of remote sensing of coastal waters in the context of deriving information that supports efficient and effective management of coastal resources. (PDF contains 4 pages)

Adapting to climate change: Combining economics and geomorphology in coastal policy

How is climate change affecting our coastal environment? How can coastal communities adapt to sea level rise and increased storm risk? These questions have garnered tremendous interest from scientists and policy makers alike, as the dynamic coastal environment is particularly vulnerable to the impacts of climate change. Over half the world population lives and works in a coastal zone less than 120 miles wide, thereby being continuously affected by the changes in the coastal environment [6]. Housing markets are directly influenced by the physical processes that govern coastal systems. Beach towns like Oak Island in North Carolina (NC) face severe erosion, and the tax assesed value of one coastal property fell by 93% in 2007 [9]. With almost ninety percent of the sandy beaches in the US facing moderate to severe erosion [8], coastal communities often intervene to stabilize the shoreline and hold back the sea in order to protect coastal property and infrastructure. Beach nourishment, which is the process of rebuilding a beach by periodically replacing an eroding section of the beach with sand dredged from another location, is a policy for erosion control in many parts of the US Atlantic and Pacific coasts [3]. Beach nourishment projects in the United States are primarily federally funded and implemented by the Army Corps of Engineers (ACE) after a benefit-cost analysis. Benefits from beach nourishment include reduction in storm damage and recreational benefits from a wider beach. Costs would include the expected cost of construction, present value of periodic maintenance, and any external cost such as the environmental cost associated with a nourishment project (NOAA). Federal appropriations for nourishment totaled $787 million from 1995 to 2002 [10]. Human interventions to stabilize shorelines and physical coastal dynamics are strongly coupled. The value of the beach, in the form of storm protection and recreation amenities, is at least partly capitalized into property values. These beach values ultimately influence the benefit-cost analysis in support of shoreline stabilization policy, which, in turn, affects the shoreline dynamics. This paper explores the policy implications of this circularity. With a better understanding of the physical-economic feedbacks, policy makers can more effectively design climate change adaptation strategies. (PDF contains 4 pages)

Dramatic variability of the carbonate system at a temperate coastal ocean site (Beaufort, North Carolina, USA) is regulated by physical and biogeochemical processes on multiple timescales.

Increasing atmospheric carbon dioxide (CO2) from anthropogenic sources is acidifying marine environments resulting in potentially dramatic consequences for the physical, chemical and biological functioning of these ecosystems. If current trends continue, mean ocean pH is expected to decrease by ~0.2 units over the next ~50 years. Yet, there is also substantial temporal variability in pH and other carbon system parameters in the ocean resulting in regions that already experience change that exceeds long-term projected trends in pH. This points to short-term dynamics as an important layer of complexity on top of long-term trends. Thus, in order to predict future climate change impacts, there is a critical need to characterize the natural range and dynamics of the marine carbonate system and the mechanisms responsible for observed variability. Here, we present pH and dissolved inorganic carbon (DIC) at time intervals spanning 1 hour to >1 year from a dynamic, coastal, temperate marine system (Beaufort Inlet, Beaufort NC USA) to characterize the carbonate system at multiple time scales. Daily and seasonal variation of the carbonate system is largely driven by temperature, alkalinity and the balance between primary production and respiration, but high frequency change (hours to days) is further influenced by water mass movement (e.g. tides) and stochastic events (e.g. storms). Both annual (~0.3 units) and diurnal (~0.1 units) variability in coastal ocean acidity are similar in magnitude to 50 year projections of ocean acidity associated with increasing atmospheric CO2. The environmental variables driving these changes highlight the importance of characterizing the complete carbonate system rather than just pH. Short-term dynamics of ocean carbon parameters may already exert significant pressure on some coastal marine ecosystems with implications for ecology, biogeochemistry and evolution and this shorter term variability layers additive effects and complexity, including extreme values, on top of long-term trends in ocean acidification.

Land Ocean Interactions in the Coastal Zone, LOICZ: lessons from Banda Aceh, Atlantis, and Canute

This special issue of Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science synthesizes and updates the developments in science related to Land Ocean Interactions in the Coastal Zone (LOICZ). Frequent updates about the dynamic coastal zone are useful and necessary as global change accelerates. There is an urgent need to improve the knowledge and understanding of the vulnerability of society and ecosystems to global change hazards in the coastal zone (Vermaat et al., 2005). The collection of papers in this special issue places new developments, findings, techniques and insights within the context of LOICZ science. For the convenience of the reader, the references to papers included in this special issue are printed in italic, whereas other references to LOICZ science are in normal print.

Monitoramento por dgps e análise dos processos erosivos da linha de costa na praia de Pirangi do Norte - Parnamirim / RN

Through out the course of a steady increase in search and recovery of space in the coastal zone, there is also an expanding concern about the erosion processes of this area. The main problem in coastal areas is that urbanization occurs in a disorderly fashion and unsustainable, further aggravating the problems of coastal dynamics. The study area of this work is located on the southern coast of Pirangi do Norte beach to about 20km south of Natal, capital of Rio Grande do Norte in the Parnamirim City. This area has the length of approximately 1km, divided into three sections (Western, Central and Eastern) with a morphology consisting of a tableland at the top, sea cliffs in the West and Central parts and sand dunes in the Eastern section, both vegetated, and a coastal plain on the inferior part associated with the presence of beach rocks. This study aimed to analyze the erosion processes operating in the excerpt of Pirangi do Norte beach and assess the feasibility of their monitoring making use of DGPS (Global Positioning System Differential mode). During the work it was carried out a physical description of the area through photo-interpretation and site survey after measurement of the shoreline in the period between November 2004 and November 2009 and beach profiles between August 2005 and July 2006. The analysis of the results of the annual surveys showed the occurrence of variations of the shoreline along the stretch traveled. Sites are identified in advancement coast from the sea and it was verified in loco the presence of erosion with deposition of materials on the lower part of the coastal bluff, the former position of the shoreline, showing a false notion of advancing it. This leads to the conclusion that the data collected in a survey of the shoreline should always be accompanied by photographic records of the local area and with the highest rate of erosion, thus avoiding the mistake of treating the deposit materials as evidence of progress coast. At the end of the study, after a review of various works to mitigate the erosion in the coastal zone, it is recommended to the area of study the adoption of an artificial feeding of the beach, aiming the minimization of the erosive effects of the tides. Moreover, it is suggested that even the continuity of monitoring, maintenance of existing vegetation and control of the occupation on the edge of sea cliffs

Estudo da dinâmica costeira da região da foz do rio Piranhas-Açu para geração de mapas de sensibilidade do litoral ao derramamento de óleo

The study area is located in the northern coast of Rio Grande do Norte State comprising the mouth of Açu-Piranhas river including the cities of Porto do Mangue e Areia Branca. The local geological setting comprises Cretaceous, Tertiary and Quaternary geological units of the Potiguar Basin. One is about a region of high morphologic instability due to action of the rigorous dynamic coastal processes, beyond the intense human activities mainly for the performance of the petroliferous industry, salt farms and tanks of shrimp industry.For the accomplishment of this work Landsat 5 TM and Landsat 7 ETM + from four distinct dates were used as cartographic base, in which one applied techniques of digital processing to elaborate thematic maps of the existing natural resources to support the geologic and geomorphologic characterization and the soil and landuse maps. The strategy applied was the interpretation of multitemporal images from aerial and orbital remote sensors alIied to the terrain truth recognition, integrated through a Geographic Information System. These activities had alIowed the production of Sensitivity Maps of the Coast to Oil Spilling for the area, on the basis of the Coastal Sensibility Index. Taking into account the seasons were created maps to distinct datas: July 2003 represents the winter months that presented a sensibility lower when compared with the month of December 2003. For the summer months greater sensitivity is due to the hydrodynamic data that suggest a lesser capacity of natural cleanness of the oil and its derivatives in spilling case.These outcomes are an important and useful database to support an assessment to a risk situation and to taking decision in the face of an environmental disaster with oil spilling in coastal area, alIowing a complete visualization of the area and identifying all portions in the area with thei environmental units and respective Coastal Sensibility Index.

Archaeofacies Analysis: Using Depositional Attributes to Identify Anthropic Processes of Deposition in a Monumental Shell Mound of Santa Catarina State, Southern Brazil

In the coast of Santa Catarina State (southern Brazil), a large population of monumental shell mounds characterizes a highly dynamic coastal setting. In this paper, sedimentary facies analysis was adapted for description, sampling, and interpretation of shell mound complex and repetitive archaeostratigraphic successions. Archaeofacies identification in the field, according to depositional attributes, is tested by contrasting field description with multi-element chemical analyses, total carbon and nitrogen determinations, and micromorphological descriptions. Two vertical sequences at the black deposit of Jabuticabeira II shell mound were studied and preliminary results showed that: (1) depositional attributes are a reliable base for archaeofacies identification in the field, (2) the formation process of this site involved a sequence of anthropic depositional processes, where burned refuse was redeposited over the shell mound following a ritual construction pattern, and (3) the black deposit includes a double palimpsest that refers to provenance and meaning of mound construction material. (C) 2009 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Study of particle movement in the nearshore region of Lake Superior with radioisotope tracers

Biogeochemical processes in the coastal region, including the coastal area of the Great Lakes, are of great importance due to the complex physical, chemical and biological characteristics that differ from those on either the adjoining land or open water systems. Particle-reactive radioisotopes, both naturally occurring (210Pb, 210Po and 7Be) and man-made (137Cs), have proven to be useful tracers for these processes in many systems. However, a systematic isotope study on the northwest coast of the Keweenaw Peninsula in Lake Superior has not yet been performed. In this dissertation research, field sampling, laboratory measurements and numerical modeling were conducted to understand the biogeochemistry of the radioisotope tracers and some particulate-related coastal processes. In the first part of the dissertation, radioisotope activities of 210Po and 210Pb in a variability of samples (dissolved, suspended particle, sediment trap materials, surficial sediment) were measured. A completed picture of the distribution and disequilibrium of this pair of isotopes was drawn. The application of a simple box model utilizing these field observations reveals short isotope residence times in the water column and a significant contribution of sediment resuspension (for both particles and isotopes). The results imply a highly dynamic coastal region. In the second part of this dissertation, this conclusion is examined further. Based on intensive sediment coring, the spatial distribution of isotope inventories (mainly 210Pb, 137Cs and 7Be) in the nearshore region was determined. Isotope-based focusing factors categorized most of the sampling sites as non- or temporary depositional zones. A twodimensional steady-state box-in-series model was developed and applied to individual transects with the 210Pb inventories as model input. The modeling framework included both water column and upper sediments down to the depth of unsupported 210Pb penetration. The model was used to predict isotope residence times and cross-margin fluxes of sediments and isotopes at different locations along each transect. The time scale for sediment focusing from the nearshore to offshore regions of the transect was on the order of 10 years. The possibility of sediment longshore movement was indicated by high inventory ratios of 137Cs: 210Pb. Local deposition of fine particles, including fresh organic carbon, may explain the observed distribution of benthic organisms such as Diporeia. In the last part of this dissertation, isotope tracers, 210Pb and 210Po, were coupled into a hydrodynamic model for Lake Superior. The model was modified from an existing 2-D finite difference physical-biological model which has previously been successfully applied on Lake Superior. Using the field results from part one of this dissertation as initial conditions, the model was used to predict the isotope distribution in the water column; reasonable results were achieved. The modeling experiments demonstrated the potential for using a hydrodynamic model to study radioisotope biogeochemistry in the lake, although further refinements are necessary.

Penetration velocity and deceleration of penetrometer stations N1 to N97 during cruise Senckenberg_11_2008

In-situ geotechnical measurements of surface sediments were carried out along large subaqueous dunes in the Knudedyb tidal inlet channel in the Danish Wadden Sea using a small free-falling penetrometer. Vertical profiles showed a typical stratification pattern with a resolution of ~1 cm depicting a thin surface layer of low sediment strength and a stiffer substratum below (quasi-static bearing capacity equivalent: 1-3 kPa in the top layer, 20-140 kPa in the underlying sediment; thickness of the top layer ca. 5-8 cm). Observed variations in the thickness and strength of the surface layer during a tidal cycle were compared to mean current velocities (measured using an acoustic Doppler current profiler, ADCP), high-resolution bathymetry (based on multibeam echo sounding, MBES) and qualitative estimates of suspended sediment distributions in the water column (estimated from ADCP backscatter intensity). The results revealed an ebb dominance in sediment remobilization, and a general accretion of the bed towards low water. A loose top layer occurred throughout the tidal cycle, likely influenced by bedload transport and small events of suspended sediment resettlement (thickness: 6 +-2 cm). Furthermore, this layer showed a significant increase in thickness (e.g. from 8 cm to 16 cm) related to periods of overall deposition. These findings imply that dynamic penetrometers can conveniently serve to (1) quantify potentially mobile sediments by determining the thickness of a loose sediment surface layer, (2) unravel sediment strength development in potentially mobile sediments and (3) identify sediment accumulation. Such data are an important complement and add a new geotechnical perspective during investigations of sediment remobilization processes in highly dynamic coastal environments.

Particle fluxes and in-situ particle properties measured with sediment traps and a moored camera system from 2008 - 2010 in region off Cape Blanc / NW-Africa

We compared particle data from a moored video camera system with sediment trap derived fluxes at ~1100 m depth in the highly dynamic coastal upwelling system off Cape Blanc, Mauritania. Between spring 2008 and winter 2010 the trap collected settling particles in 9-day intervals, while the camera recorded in-situ particle abundance and size-distribution every third day. Particle fluxes were highly variable (40-1200 mg m**-2 d**-1) and followed distinct seasonal patterns with peaks during spring, summer and fall. The particle flux patterns from the sediment traps correlated to the total particle volume captured by the video camera, which ranged from1 to 22 mm**3 l**-1. The measured increase in total particle volume during periods of high mass flux appeared to be better related to increases in the particle concentrations, rather than to increased average particle size. We observed events that had similar particle fluxes, but showed clear differences in particle abundance and size-distribution, and vice versa. Such observations can only be explained by shifts in the composition of the settling material, with changes both in particle density and chemical composition. For example, the input of wind-blown dust from the Sahara during September 2009 led to the formation of high numbers of comparably small particles in the water column. This suggests that, besides seasonal changes, the composition of marine particles in one region underlies episodical changes. The time between the appearance of high dust concentrations in the atmosphere and the increase lithogenic flux in the 1100 m deep trap suggested an average settling rate of 200 m d**-1, indicating a close and fast coupling between dust input and sedimentation of the material.

Monitoring and modelling the morphodynamic evolution of a breached barrier beach system

Predicting the evolution of a coastal cell requires the identification of the key drivers of morphology. Soft coastlines are naturally dynamic but severe storm events and even human intervention can accelerate any changes that are occurring. However, when erosive events such as barrier breaching occur with no obvious contributory factors, a deeper understanding of the underlying coastal processes is required. Ideally conclusions on morphological drivers should be drawn from field data collection and remote sensing over a long period of time. Unfortunately, when the Rossbeigh barrier beach in Dingle Bay, County Kerry, began to erode rapidly in the early 2000’s, eventually leading to it breaching in 2008, no such baseline data existed. This thesis presents a study of the morphodynamic evolution of the Inner Dingle Bay coastal system. The study combines existing coastal zone analysis approaches with experimental field data collection techniques and a novel approach to long term morphodynamic modelling to predict the evolution of the barrier beach inlet system. A conceptual model describing the long term evolution of Inner Dingle Bay in 5 stages post breaching was developed. The dominant coastal processes driving the evolution of the coastal system were identified and quantified. A new methodology of long term process based numerical modelling approach to coastal evolution was developed. This method was used to predict over 20 years of coastal evolution in Inner Dingle Bay. On a broader context this thesis utilised several experimental coastal zone data collection and analysis methods such as ocean radar and grain size trend analysis. These were applied during the study and their suitability to a dynamic coastal system was assessed.

Biological characteristics and determination of population dynamic parameters of Sphyraena jello in the coastal waters of Province Bushehr- Persian Gulf

Sphyraena jello, Pick handle Barracuda, is amongst the highly valuable and main commercial fisheries resources in the southern waters of Iran. Given such an economically significant position, this study, being conducted in 2006-2007, attempts to investigate its biological habit and characteristics in Iran’s water of the Persian Gulf. For the sampling purpose, three major landings namely Bushehr, Deylam and Genaveh were selected to obtain samples from commercial catches. The sampling is composed of 655 males and 515 females during a twelve month period. By studying the feeding through the counting method, it is revealed that, Liza subviridis characterized by %42.8 and Sepia pharaonis by %8.4 made the highest and lowest stomach content respectively. The findings showed that male fish in smaller size will mature sooner than females’ specimen but this gender ratio or proportion was not significantly different except during October and September. Such a difference between male and female in different months could be originated from longer residing of female group in spawning ground compared to male group. The previous spawning lasted during September –October, and there was a peak of spawning in feeding in August. The lowest fat proportion for both male and female genders was reported 0.10 and 0.11 respectively in October; but the highest level of condition factor was reported to be 0.59 and 0.63 during November and June.

The study of biological characteristic and population dynamic of Caspian vimba (Vimba vimba persa), in coastal waters of Caspian Sea (Mazandaran Province)

This study was conducted to determine reproduction characteristics, diet regime, age structure and population dynamics parameters of the vimba vimba persa (Pallas, 1811) in Mazandaran waters of the Caspian Sea, from October 2008 to September 2009. A total of 994 specimens were monthly collected by beach seine and cast net from six fish landings of Ramsar, Tonekabon, Chaloos, Mahmood Abad, Sari and Behshahr. Biometric characters were measured for each specimen at the laboratory. Scales were used for age determination. Sex determination and fecundity were determined. Population dynamic parameters as well as stock assessment including cohort analysis were estimated using FISAT software. The finding showed that the mean of fork length and body weight of the Caspian Vimba were 168.4±2.6 mm and 71.94±32.24 g respectively. Strong correlation was found between these two variables (a= 0.012; b = 3.047; r2 = 0.955). 92 specimens were studied from the fecundity point of view. This species was found to have more abundance in spring (esp. Apr-May). The samples composed of 397(42.6%) male, 537(57.4%) female; Overall sex ratio (M: F =1: 1.35) was significantly different from the expected 1:1 ratio (p ≤0.05). The advanced stages of maturity (4th & 5th) were found in April and May. The highest Gonadosomatic Index in female was in May and the lowest one was in July. This fish is therefore a spring spawner. The maximum absolute and relative fecundities were 34640 and 260.9, respectively; the minimum absolute and relative fecundities were 5400 and 94.5 respectively. The averages of absolute and relative fecundities were 17198±7710 and 171.85±48.8, respectively. Coefficient vacuity index was 59.2% which indicates that this fish is mesophagous. Among of living creature consumes by Caspian Vimba mollusks, 76 arthropods, worms, plants, detritus and fishes were found 32.9% , 26.7% , 13.4% , 17% , 4.4% and 1.6% respectively. The infinite fork lengths were 261 mm for females, 25mm for males and 261 mm for both sexes respectively. For population growth and mortality parameters; K ( 0.28 per year for both sexes, 0.3 per year for males, 0.33 per year for females); t0 ( -0.65 year for both sexes, -0.23 year in females, -0.51 year in males ); Φ' ( 2.28 ); Z ( 0.98 per year ); M ( 0.59 per year); F ( 0.39 per year) and Exploitation coefficient was 0.4. The analysis showed that total biomass and MSY were 1336 and 528.8 tonnes respectively.