The horn of plenty de McQueen: uma conjunção paródica entre o design, a moda e a arte no contemporâneo

Pós-graduação em Design - FAAC

O design de moda e a indústria

Dissertação para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Design de Moda, apresentada na Universidade de Lisboa - Faculdade de Arquitetura.

Exposições museológicas: a moda por narrativas, experiências e conexões

Este estudo apresenta o universo patrimonial pela perspetiva da acessibilidade pública conferida por instituições museológicas. Consiste em exploração e análise das informações e experiências proporcionadas por museus no âmbito da cultura material indumentária e de moda. O foco desta abordagem são as exposições presenciais e os websites institucionais, com ênfase à acessibilidade aos catálogos de coleções. Pela perspectiva do designer como antropólogo neste estudo – com base em estudos de caso e outros dados coletados – são apresentadas ferramentas comparativas da realidade atual e propostas para a disseminação mais alargada, diversificada e especializada das informações cultura material e imaterial de moda. Duas hipóteses orientaram esta tese: - A noção de que as exposições de artefatos de traje podem ser inovadoras em relação às exposições de outros objetos, já que a roupa vincula-se a movimento, toque, corpo e usabilidade que induz experiências e conexões, sentimentos e identidades em uma relação de metamorfose. - A noção de que o potencial de ensino e difusão de uma cultura de design, com destaque aos contextos de Portugal e Brasil, é um campo relevante à visibilidade pública da indústria da moda nestes países e alavanca para um melhor posicionamento na competitividade global. Pelas propostas específicas e pelo contributo de fornecer informações inéditas a respeito do universo investigado, este estudo abre novas perspectivas para futuras investigações, principalmente nas áreas de museologia, museografia, história e teoria da moda e do design, design de exposição, design de produto, estudos da cultura material, comunicação e antropologia do design.

O produto de moda para o portador de deficiência física: análise de desconforto

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Formação em moda no caminho da sustentabilidade

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Diálogo entre o design de superfície e o design de moda: o caso das padronagens

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

User-designer collaboration during the early stage of the product development process

As an understanding of users' tacit knowledge and latent needs embedded in user experience has played a critical role in product development, users’ direct involvement in design has become a necessary part of the design process. Various ways of accessing users' tacit knowledge and latent needs have been explored in the field of user-centred design, participatory design, and design for experiencing. User-designer collaboration has been used unconsciously by traditional designers to facilitate the transfer of users' tacit knowledge and to elicit new knowledge. However, what makes user-designer collaboration an effective strategy has rarely been reported on or explored. Therefore, interaction patterns between the users and the designers in three industry-supported user involvement cases were studied. In order to develop a coding system, collaboration was defined as a set of coordinated and joint problem solving activities, measured by the elicitation of new knowledge from collaboration. The analysis of interaction patterns in the user involvement cases revealed that allowing users to challenge or modify their contextual experiences facilitates the transfer of knowledge and new knowledge generation. It was concluded that users can be more effectively integrated into the product development process by employing collaboration strategies to intensify the depth of user involvement.

What is in the name of a fashion designer

Currently, fashion quite comfortably covers the space between unique pieces and serialisation, mobilising as necessary the discourses of art or commerce; however, the question of what a fashion designer is remains open. Historically, the image of the fashion designer has been constructed within a heroic and Romantic narrative centred on the concept of designers as artists and hence authors. The recent development of the fashion industry as an image-driven industry, on the one hand, and the placement of fashion in museum contexts on the other, requires a re-thinking of the function of the designer. This paper does not set out to identify a theory that establishes a truthful answer to the position and significance of the fashion designer within the fashion system, but it proposes that an analytical and critical understanding of the fashion designer requires a contextualisation of the philosophies and institutions (including fashion magazines and fashion criticism) that support it.

User-designer collaboration during the early stage of the design process

As user involvement becomes a necessary part of the product development process, various ways of accessing users' latent needs have been developed and studied. Reviews of literatures in user involvement and product development have revealed that accessing users' latent needs and transferring them into design process could be facilitated by effectively implementing user-designer collaboration during the early stage of the design process. In this paper, various types of user-designer collaboration were observed and then distinct characteristics of user-designer collaboration were classified into three categories. 1) Passive objectivity, 2) workplace democratisation, and 3) shared contexts were observed as strategies for better user-designer collaboration, which have been employed in the area of user-centred design, user participatory design and design for experiencing. Based on the literature review, this paper proposed a basic collaboration mechanism between the users and the designers during the early stage of the design process and then discussed how its mechanism will help to describe the interactions between the users and the designers during the user involvement sessions.

"I'm a designer, get me out of tech class!" : closing the gap between design and technology education

The following paper explores the use of collaborative pedagogical approaches to advance foundational architectural design education, by linking design process to sustainable technology principles. After a brief discussion on architectural design education, the mentioned collaborative approach is described. This approach facilitates students’ exchange of knowledge between two courses, despite no explicit/assessable requirement to do so. The result for the students is deeper learning and a design process that is enriched through collaboration with sustainable technology. The success of this approach has been measured through questionnaires, evaluation surveys, and a comparative assessment of students common to both courses. The paper focuses on the challenges and innovations in connecting architectural design and technology education, where students are encouraged to implement lessons learnt, thereby closing the gap that these courses have traditionally represented.

Uncertainty and innovation in fashion design

Generally speaking, psychologists have suggested three traditional views of how people cope with uncertainty. They are the certainty maximiser, the intuitive statistician-economist and the knowledge seeker (Smithson, 2008). In times of uncertainty, such as the recent global financial crisis, these coping methods often result in innovation in industry. Richards (2003) identifies innovation as different from creativity in that innovation aims to transform and implement rather than simply explore and invent. An examination of the work of iconic fashion designers, through case study and situational analysis, reveals that coping with uncertainty manifests itself in ways that have resulted in innovations in design, marketing methods, production and consumption. In relation to contemporary fashion, where many garments look the same in style, colour, cut and fit (Finn, 2008), the concept of innovation is an important one. This paper explores the role of uncertainty as a driver of innovation in fashion design. A key aspect of seeking knowledge, as a mechanism to cope with this uncertainty, is a return to basics. This is a problem for contemporary fashion designers who are no longer necessarily makers and therefore do not engage with the basic materials and methods of garment construction. In many cases design in fashion has become digital, communicated to an unseen, unknown production team via scanned image and specification alone. The disconnection between the design and the making of garments, as a result of decades of off-shore manufacturing, has limited the opportunity for this return to basics. The authors argue that the role of the fashion designer has become about the final product and as a result there is a lack of innovation in the process of making: in the form, fit and function of fashion garments. They propose that ‘knowledge seeking’ as a result of uncertainty in the fashion industry, in particular through re-examination of the methods of making, could hold the key to a new era of innovation in fashion design.

Design process excludes users : the co-creation activities between user and designer

User needs are a fundamental element of design. If the design process does not properly reflect user needs, the design will be severely compromised. Therefore, it is worthwhile to investigate how the user is, and user needs are, understood in the design process. In this article, three accepted linear process models for web site and interactive media design are reviewed in terms of the designer and user participation. The article then proposes a user-evolving collaborative design process which is built on co-creation activities between designer and user. Co-creation activities across the entire design process structurally and ontologically reposition the users, and user needs, centrally, which allows the designers to holistically approach to the user needs through building a partnership with the users. Co-creation creates an equal evolving participatory process between user and designer towards sharing values and knowledge and creating new domains of collective creativity.

New organisational leadership capabilities : transitional engineer the new designer?

Traditionally, design has been centred within the manufacturing and production areas of companies and or as a styling afterthought. Increasingly, design is viewed as a vital and important strategic business resource (Dell’Era, Marchesi & Verganti, 2010) and consequently companies worldwide look to design to help them innovate, differentiate and compete in the global marketplace. The role of the professional designer is evolving to a point where they are needed to work beyond being a specialist in the manufacturing and aesthetics of an artefact (Wrigley & Bucolo, 2011). This paper challenges the values held by academics and industry regarding the traditional role of designers in business. It investigates the emerging transitional engineering framework and puts forward a proposal for the next generation designer in the future era of design. Questions surrounding how designers will develop these new skills and how the Authors’ new framework of design led innovation can contribute to the future of design will be presented. This research is needed to better equip future designers to have a more central role in business.