The Hollywood effect : a comparative study of costume in Australia and the Proposition

This paper compares costuming practices in Baz Luhrmann’s Australia (2008) and John Hillcoat’s The Proposition (2005) and argues that high production values, such as in the blockbuster Australia, are not neutral mechanisms of production, but powerful prescriptive elements which do not result in a successful representation of cultural specificity. Australia is a typical blockbuster, it employs a large number of extras, it features compelling landscape shots, has been shot across four different locations and sets, and, importantly, is an international production with the 20th Century Fox. The film’s costumes were designed by Catherine Martin, who received an Oscar nomination in 2009. While global exposure of fashion in film and through celebrities’ endorsements has consolidated a historical synergy between the fashion industry and Hollywood, the Australian film and fashion industries have had a very limited exchange. Baz Luhrmann’s film is Australia’s first instance of promo-costuming and use of tie-in labels (Ferragamo, R.M.Williams, Prada, Paspaley). Catherine Martin thoroughly researched 1930s women’s wear, indigenous and stockmen’s clothing, and set up to make all costumes with a large team of costumiers and seamstresses, striving for authenticity. The Proposition won its costume designer Margot Wilson an AFI in 2005 for best costume, but compared to Australia the story, location and costumes are far harsher. Filmed around Winton in far west Queensland, the director John Hillcoat and Director of Photography Benoit Delhomme were insistent about realism, and emphasising the harshness of the Australian landscape. The realism of the costumes was derived from the fabrics and manufacturing, as well as the way they were shot, with the actors often wearing two or three layers of heavy wool during days of shooting in 50 degree heat, and the details of making and breaking down. The implication is that both films are culturally specific as they both deal with an Australian story. However, Australia is clearly produced according to a Hollywood blockbuster model, and closely matches Hollywood’s narrative and aesthetic characteristics, while The Proposition is a more modest film that eschews these conventions of beauty and glossed history. Despite its western genre-orientation, The Proposition is more successful than Australia when it comes to costuming, because its costumes are not only functional to the narrative, but, in Roland Barthes’ words, they also fulfil a prestation. This prestation highlights the social and cultural conflicts on which colonial Australia was founded, instead of gilding, and gliding, over them.

Portrait of Alexander Moissi in costume Portraits Men

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Unidentified family dressed in costume; Milan.

Handwritten caption: Mein Bruder Eduard links und Familie in Mailand Italien

Hannah Kroner (l) in costume dancing with an unidentified young woman for the Berlin Kulturbundbuehne.

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Portrait of Alexander Moissi in costume Portraits Men

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Hannah Kroner (l) in costume dancing with an unidentified young woman for the Berlin Kulturbundbuehne.

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Bianca Gerstmann in traditional Malaysian costume ? Portraits Women

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Bianca Gerstmann and unidentified friend in traditional Malaysian costume ? Portraits Women

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Bianca and Felix Gerstmann in traditional Malaysian costume ? Portraits Couples

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Clothing and Colonialism: The Dungiven costume and the fashioning of early modern identities

The entanglement of identity and personal attire in colonial settings is explored through consideration of a tattered set of clothes from late sixteenth-early seventeenth-century Ireland incorporating elements of Irish, English, and Scots fashion. Reconsideration of the clothing, recovered from a bog, provides a rare opportunity to explore the physical manifestations of processes of hybridity and mimesis, as well as the pragmatic accommodations of impoverishment and displacement in colonial settings. In addition to considering the role of material culture in colonial identity formation and negotiation, examination of what has become known as the Dungiven costume also speaks to the ongoing legacy of early modern colonial encounters, as the cultural associations of the garments, and by extension their past wearer(s), continue to be subjected to the politically charged nature of identity politics in contemporary Northern Ireland.

O governo da linguagem cerimonial: costume etiqueta no Timor-Leste colonial

Este ensaio explora o elevado significado adquirido por antigos costumes e cerimoniais na gestão de poder, status e autoridade socio-política em Timor-Leste, com especial enfoque no período compreendido entre as décadas de 1850 e 1910. Argumenta-se que, em Timor colonial, a cerimonialidade formava a linguagem e a tecnologia através da qual a autoridade político-jural Portuguesa e Timorense se constituía e se exercia nas interacções coloniais. A cerimonialidade garantia o exercício do comando assim como a comunicação social entre os actores coloniais portugueses e os povos e as classes dirigentes timorenses, numa diversidade de situações: durante interacções pacíficas e conjuntivas, mas também, e de modo importante, em ocasiões de tensão política, conflito, ou violência física iminente.