Quantitative Determination of Dimethylaminoethanol in Cosmetic Formulations by Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy

A nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopic method was validated for the quantitative determination of dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) in cosmetic formulations. The linearity in the range from 0.5000 to 1.5000 g (DMAE salt/mass maleic acid) presents a correlation coefficient > 0.99 for all DMAE salts. The repeatability (intraday), expressed as relative standard deviation, ranged from 1.08 to 1.44% for samples and 1.31 to 1.88% for raw materials. The detection limit and quantitation limit were 0.0017 and 0.0051 g for DMAE, 0.0018 and 0.0054 g for DMAE bitartrate, and 0.0023 and 0.0071 g for DMAE acetamidobenzoate, respectively. The proposed method is simple, precise, and accurate and can be used in the quality control of raw materials and cosmetic gels containing these compounds as active substances.

Skin Penetration of Epigallocatechin-3-Gallate and Quercetin from Green Tea and Ginkgo biloba Extracts Vehiculated in Cosmetic Formulations

Green tea (Camellia sinensis) and Ginkgo biloba extracts in cosmetic formulations have been suggested to protect the skin against UV-induced damage and skin ageing. Thus, it is very important to assess the human skin penetration of their major flavonoids to verify if they penetrate and remain in the skin to exert their proposed effects. The aim of this study was to evaluate the human skin penetration of epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations. This study was conducted with fresh dermatomed human Caucasian skin from abdominal surgery mounted on static Franz diffusion cells. Skin samples were mounted between two diffusion half-cells and 10 mg/cm(2) of formulations supplemented with 6% of green tea or G. biloba extract were applied on the skin surface. The receptor fluid was removed after 6 and 24 h and analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography for the quantification of the flavonoids. The stratum corneum was removed by tape stripping and immersed in methanol and the epidermis was mechanically separated from the dermis and triturated in methanol to extract EGCG and quercetin. The results showed that the flavonoids under study penetrated into the skin, without reaching the receptor fluid. The majority of EGCG was quantified in the stratum corneum (0.87 mu g/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentrations found in viable epidermis (0.54 mu g/cm(2)) and in the dermis (0.38 mu g/cm(2)). The majority of quercetin was quantified in the viable epidermis (0.23 mu g/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentration found in the stratum corneum layer (0.17 mu g/cm(2)). Finally, it can be concluded that EGCG and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations presented good skin penetration and retention, which can favor their skin effects. Copyright (C) 2009 S. Karger AG, Basel

A HPLC method to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing UV-filters and vitamins A and E

This paper reports a simple and reliable HPLC method to evaluate the influence of two currently available photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing combined UV-filters and vitamins A and E. Vitamins and UV-filters, widely encountered in products of daily use have to be routinely evaluated since photoinstability can lead to reductions in their efficacy and safety. UV-irradiated formulation samples were submitted to a procedure that included a reliable, precise and specific HPLC method employing a C18 column and detection at 325 and 235 nm. Methanol, isopropanol and water were the mobile phases in gradient elution. The method precision was between 0.28 and 5.07. The photostabilizers studied [diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN) and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC)], influenced the stability of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) associated with vitamins A and E. BTDC was considered the best photostabilizer to vitamins and OMC when the UV-filters were combined with both vitamins A and E. (C) 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitamins

Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract (SCE) is used in cosmetics since it can act in oxidative stress and improve skin conditions. This study investigated dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing SCE and/or vitamins A, C and E. The formulation studied was supplemented or not (F1: vehicle) with vitamins A, C and E esters (F2) or with SCE (F3) or with the combination of vitamins and SCE (F4). Formulations were patch tested on back skin of volunteers. For efficacy studies, formulations were applied on volunteers and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture (SM), skin microrelief (SMR) and free radicals protection were analysed after 3 h, 15 and 30 days of application. Volunteers were also asked about efficacy perception. It was observed that F4 provoked a slight erythema in one volunteer. All formulations enhanced forearm SM. Only F3 and F4 presented long term effects on SMR and showed higher texture values; F3 had the highest brightness values. Our results suggest that vitamins and SCE showed effects in SM and SMR. Only formulations containing SC had long term effects in the improvement of SMR. Thus, these kinds of evaluations are very important in cosmetics development to evaluate the best risk and benefit correlation. (C) 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Efficacy of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Dispersion of Liposome with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Alpha-Lipoic Acid and Kinetin

The present study aimed to evaluate the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) and kinetin, as well as their effects on the hydration and viscoelastic skin properties. The photoprotection was determined in vitro (antioxidant activity) and in vivo on UV-irradiated hairless mouse skin. The hydration effects were performed with the application of the formulations under study on the forearm of human volunteers and skin conditions were analyzed before and after a single application and daily applications during 4 weeks in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture and viscoelastic properties. The raw material under study possessed free-radical scavenging activity and the formulation with it protected hairless mouse skin barrier function against UV damage. After 4 weeks of application on human skin, the formulation under study enhanced stratum corneum skin moisture and also showed hydration effects in deeper layers of the skin. Thus, it can be concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing a dispersion of liposome with MAP, ALA and kinetin under study showed photoprotective effects in skin barrier function as well as pronounced hydration effects on human skin, which suggests that this dispersion has potential antiaging effects.

The Use of Nanotechnology in Cosmetic Formulations: The Influence of Vehicle in the Vitamin A Skin Penetration

Despite the efficacy of topical retinoic acid, skin reactions have limited its acceptance by patients. Other retinoids, like Retinyl Palmitate (RP), are considerably less irritating, but they are also less effective. In order to enhance the performance of retinoids, in this work RP has been added to cosmetic formulations such as nanoemulsions, which can provide better penetration of this active substance. Because the vehicle can directly influence the skin penetration and the effectiveness of RP, two skin care products containing 5000 UI RP have been developed and investigated, namely a nanoemulsifying system and a classic gel cream. In vitro penetration tests were conducted by using Franz diffusion cells and placing porcine ear skin and iso-propanol in the receptor compartment. The RP concentration in the skin layers was analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography, and a Zeta-Sizer system was employed for measurement of the the particle size distribution. The penetration tests revealed a large difference between the vehicles in terms of the RP concentrations in each skin layer. The classic gel cream furnished better RP penetration in both the stratum corneum and the epidermis without stratum corneum + dermis, as compared to the self-nanoemulsifying system. The two vehicles displayed the same particle size (between 100 and 200 nm). Better understanding of RP skin delivery using different vehicles has been acquired, and the importance of evaluating the efficacy of nanocosmetics. Results from the present study should also contribute to the assessment of commercial self-nanoemulsifying systems with potential application in the facile production of nanoemulsions.

Evaluation of sun protection factor of cosmetic formulations by a simple visual in vitro method mimicking the in vivo method

A new concept for in vitro visual evaluation of sun protection factor (SPF) of cosmetic formulations based on a supramolecular ultraviolet (UV) dosimeter was clearly demonstrated. The method closely parallels the method validated for in vivo evaluation and relies on the determination of the slightest perceptible bleaching of an iron-complex dye/nanocrystallinetitanium dioxide interface (UV dosimeter) in combination with an artificial skin substrate simulating the actual human skin in the presence and absence of a cosmetic formulation. The successful evaluation of SPF was ensured by the similarity of the erythema response of our dosimeter and human skin to UV light irradiation. A good linear correlation of in vitro and in vivo data up to SPF 40 confirmed the effectiveness of such a simple, cheap, and fast method. In short, here we unravel a convenient and accessible visual FPS evaluation method that can help improving the control on cosmetic products contributing to the reduction of skin cancer, one of the critical public health issues nowadays. (C) 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association J Pharm Sci 101:726732, 2012

Benefits of Combinations of Vitamin A, C and E Derivatives in the Stability of Cosmetic Formulations

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.

Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy

Liposoluble vitamin C derivatives, such as tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (IPAA), are often used in dermocosmetic products due to their higher stability than vitamin C free form as well as its proposed effects in skin; however, there are no studies analyzing IPAA stability or its in vivo effects when present in dermocosmetic formulations. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate chemical stability and pre-clinical and clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing IPAA in skin hydration and microrelief. Chemical stability of the formulations added with 1% IPAA was evaluated by heat stress during 35 days by HPLC. For pre-clinical evaluation, experimental formulations were topically applied on hairless skin mice during 5 days and animal skins were analyzed by non-invasive biophysic techniques (water content of stratum corneum, TEWL, viscoelasticity, and microrelief) and by histopathological studies. For clinical efficacy tests, the formulations were topically applied to the forearm and face of human volunteers, and 3 h and 15 days after applications, the skins were evaluated by the same non-invasive techniques mentioned before. Results showed that formulations containing IPAA had medium stability and had pronounced moisturizing effects on stratum corneum and on viable epidermis. These formulations also improved skin microrelief especially in relation to skin smoothness and roughness. (C) 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Effects of Micelles and Vesicles on the Oximolysis of p-Nitrophenyl Diphenyl Phosphate: A Model System for Surfactant-Based Skin-defensive Formulations against Organophosphates

The rates of oximolysis of p-nitrophenyl diphenyl phosphate (PNPDPP) by Acetophenoxime; 10-phenyl-10-hydi-oxyiminodecanoic acid; 4-(9-carboxynonanyl)-1-(9-carboxy-1-hydroyiminononanyl) benzene; 1-dodecyl-2-[(hydroxyimino)methyl]-pyridinium chloride (IV) and N-methylpyridinium-2-aldoxime chloride were determined in micelles of N-hexadecyl-N,N,N-trimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), N-hexadecyl-N,N-dimethylammonium propanesulfonate and dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride (DODAC) vesicles. The effects of CTAC micelles and DODAC vesicles on the rates of oxymolysis of O,O-Diethyl O-(4-nitrophenyl) phosphate (paraoxon) by oxime IV were also determined. Analysis of micellar and vesicular effects on oximolysis of PNPDPP, using pseudophase or pseudophase with explicit consideration of ion exchange models, required the determination of the aggregate`s effects on the pK(a), of oximes and on the rates of PNPDPP hydrolysis. All aggregates increased the rate of oximolysis of PNPDPP and the results were analyzed quantitatively. In particular, DODAC vesicles catalyzed the reaction and increased the rate of oximolysis of PNPDPP by IV several million fold at pH`s compatible with pharmaceutical formulations. The rate increase produced by DODAC vesicles on the rate of oximolysis paraoxon by IV demonstrates the pharmaceutical potential of this system, since the substrate is used as an agricultural defensive agent and the surfactant is extensively employed in cosmetic formulations. (C) 2008 Wiley-Liss, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association J Pharm Sci 98:1040-1052, 2009

Liquid crystalline formulations containing modified surface TiO2 nanoparticles obtained by sol-gel process

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Immediate and long-term effects of polysaccharides-based formulations on human skin

A new trend in cosmetic formulations is the use of biotechnological raw materials as the polysaccharides from Klebsiella pneumoniae, which are supposed to enhance cell renewal, improve skin hydration and micro-relief. Botanical extracts of Myrtus communis leaves contain different sugars, which may provide the same benefits. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate through objective and subjective analysis the immediate and long-term effects of cosmetic formulations containing polysaccharides biotechnologically-originated and / or the ones contained in Myrtus communis extracts. Three polysaccharide-based and placebo formulations were applied on the forearm skin of 40 volunteers. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), viscoelasticity and skin micro-relief measurements were made before and 2 hours after a single application and after 15 and 30 day-periods of daily applications. Answers to a questionnaire about perceptions of formulation cosmetic features constituted the subjective analysis. All polysaccharide-based formulations enhanced skin hydration. Formulations with isolated or combined active substances improved skin barrier function as compared to placebo, in the short and long term studies. Formulations containing Myrtus communis extracts had the highest acceptance. Results suggest that daily use of formulations containing these substances is important for protection of the skin barrier function.

Assessment of the potential skin irritation of lysine-derivative anionic surfactants using mouse fibroblast and human keratinocytes as an alternative to animal testing

Purpose. The aim of this study was to identify new surfactants with low skin irritant properties for use in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations, employing cell culture as an alternative method to in vivo testing. In addition, we sought to establish whether potential cytotoxic properties were related to the size of the counterions bound to the surfactants. Methods. Cytotoxicity was assessed in the mouse fibroblast cell line 3T6, and the human keratinocyte cell line NCTC 2544, using the MTT assay and uptake of the vital dye neutral red 24 h after dosing (NRU). Results. Lysine-derivative surfactants showed higher IC50s than did commercial anionic irritant compounds such as sodium dodecyl sulphate, proving to be no more harmful than amphoteric betaines. The aggressiveness of the surfactants depended upon the size of their constituent counterions: surfactants associated with lighter counterions showed a proportionally higher aggressivity than those with heavier ones. Conclusions. Synthetic lysine-derivative anionic surfactants are less irritant than commercial surfactants such as sodium dodecyl sulphate and Hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide and are similar to Betaines. These surfactants may offer promising applications in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations, representing a potential alternative to commercial anionic surfactants as a result of their low irritancy potential.

Avaliação das actividades antioxidante e antimicrobiana do óleo de café verde em formulações cosméticas

O óleo de café verde (OCV) e formulações cosméticas que contendo 2,5, 5, 10 e 15% de óleo foram avaliados por métodos in vitro quanto às suas atividades antioxidante e antimicrobiana. O OCV e as suas formulações demostraram baixa actividade antioxidante, avaliada pelo método DPPH (42% do OCV foi equivalente a 0,002% de BHT). Não se observou atividade antimicrobiana para o OCV e as suas formulações contra Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Bacilus subtilis, Propionibacterium acnes e Candida albicans, utilizando o método de difusão em poço. Embora o OCV seja utilizado há muitos anos em formulações cosméticas, ainda são necessários mais estudos para apoiar adequadamente a utilidade do óleo de café em produtos para cuidado da saúde da pele e em cosméticos.

Estabilidade e eficácia clínica de formulações cosméticas hidratantes contendo Vitaminas C e E

A adição de diferentes substâncias activas em produtos cosméticos, por exemplo, vitaminas e seus derivados, tem sido bastante frequente. Desta forma, é fundamental avaliar a estabilidade e eficácia de formulações cosméticas que contêm estes ingredientes. O objectivo deste trabalho foi o de avaliar a estabilidade física e a eficácia clínica da hidratação formulações cosméticas com base em pantenol, e contendo tetraisopalmitato de ascorbilo e a-tocoferol. Por isso, as formulações foram desenvolvidas com pantenol (FA), pantenol e tetraisopalmitato de ascorbilo e a-tocoferol (FBC), que foi submetido à análise do comportamento reológico, caracterizando-as como estável. Em seguida, foram subjectivamente e objectivamente analisados ??quanto à eficácia clínica em 25 voluntários por avaliação sensorial e técnicas de bioengenharia cutânea, em termos de teor de água do estrato córneo, a perda de água transepidérmica (TEWL) e microrrelevo da pele, antes e depois de 3 horas de aplicação . As formulações estudadas apresentaram estabilidade aceitável de acordo com os aspectos físicos considerados. Nos estudos de eficácia clínica, ambas as formulações melhoraram significativamente a hidratação da pele e reduziram a TEWL, e também demonstraram uma melhoria no microrrelevo da pele, mas estes resultados não foram estatisticamente significativos. FBC recebeu notas superiores FApor análise sensorial, com melhoria significativa da suavidade da pele, além de ser preferido em intenção de compra.