Monitoring and modelling the morphodynamic evolution of a breached barrier beach system

Predicting the evolution of a coastal cell requires the identification of the key drivers of morphology. Soft coastlines are naturally dynamic but severe storm events and even human intervention can accelerate any changes that are occurring. However, when erosive events such as barrier breaching occur with no obvious contributory factors, a deeper understanding of the underlying coastal processes is required. Ideally conclusions on morphological drivers should be drawn from field data collection and remote sensing over a long period of time. Unfortunately, when the Rossbeigh barrier beach in Dingle Bay, County Kerry, began to erode rapidly in the early 2000’s, eventually leading to it breaching in 2008, no such baseline data existed. This thesis presents a study of the morphodynamic evolution of the Inner Dingle Bay coastal system. The study combines existing coastal zone analysis approaches with experimental field data collection techniques and a novel approach to long term morphodynamic modelling to predict the evolution of the barrier beach inlet system. A conceptual model describing the long term evolution of Inner Dingle Bay in 5 stages post breaching was developed. The dominant coastal processes driving the evolution of the coastal system were identified and quantified. A new methodology of long term process based numerical modelling approach to coastal evolution was developed. This method was used to predict over 20 years of coastal evolution in Inner Dingle Bay. On a broader context this thesis utilised several experimental coastal zone data collection and analysis methods such as ocean radar and grain size trend analysis. These were applied during the study and their suitability to a dynamic coastal system was assessed.

Transporte longitudinal de sedimento na zona costeira de Natal/RN

The longshore sediment transport (LST) is determinant for the occurrence of morphological changes in coastal environments. Understanding their movement mechanisms and transport is an essential source of information for the project design and coastal management plans. This study aims to characterize, initially, the active hydrodynamic circulation in the study area, comprised of four beach sectors from the south coast of Natal, assessing the average annual LST obtained through three proven equations (CERC, Kamphuis and Bayram et al.), defining the best formulation for the study area in question, and analyze the seasonal variability and the decadal transport evolution. The coastal area selected for this work constitutes one of the main tourist corridors in the city, but has suffered serious damage resulting from associated effects of hydrodynamic forcings and their disorderly occupation. As a tool was used the Coastal Modelling System of Brazil (SMC-Brazil), which presents integrated a series of numerical models and a database, properly calibrated and validated for use in developing projects along the Brazilian coastline. The LST rates were obtained for 15 beach profiles distributed throughout the study area. Their extensions take into account the depth of closure calculated by Harllermeier equation, and regarding the physical properties of the sediment, typical values of sandy beaches were adopted, except for the average diameter, which was calculated through an optimization algorithm based on equilibrium profile formulation proposed by Dean. Overall, the results showed an intensification of hydrodynamic forcings under extreme sea wave conditions, especially along the headlands exist in the region. Among the analyzed equations, Bayram et al. was the most suitable for this type of application, with a predominant transport in the south-north direction and the highest rates within the order of 700.000 m3 /year to 2.000.000 m3 /year. The seasonal analysis also indicated a longitudinal transport predominance in the south to north, with the highest rates associated with the fall and winter seasons. In these periods are observed erosive beach states, which indicate a direct relationship between the sediment dynamics and the occurrence of more energetic sea states. Regarding the decadal evolution of transportation, it was found a decrease in transport rate from the 50’s to the 70’s, followed by an increase until the 2000’s, coinciding with the beginning of urbanization process in some stretches of the studied coastline.

A method of lines approach for modelling saltwater intrusion in coastal aquifiers

The equations governing saltwater intrusion in coastal aquifers are complex. Backward Euler time stepping approaches are often used to advance the solution to these equations in time, which typically requires that small time steps be taken in order to ensure that an accurate solution is obtained. We show that a method of lines approach incorporating variable order backward differentiation formulas can greatly improve the efficiency of the time stepping process.

Modelling surface and shallow groundwater interactions in an ungauged subtropical coastal catchment using the SWAT model, Elimbah Creek, southeast Queensland, Australia

The study presented here applies the highly parameterised semi-distributed U.S. Department of Agriculture Soil and Water Assessment Tool (SWAT) to an Australian subtropical catchment. SWAT has been applied to numerous catchments worldwide and is considered to be a useful tool that is under ongoing development with contributions coming from different research groups in different parts of the world. In a preliminary run the SWAT model application for the Elimbah Creek catchment has estimated water yield for the catchment and has quantified the different sources. For the modelling period of April 1999 to September 2009 the results show that the main sources of water in Elimbah Creek are total surface runoff and lateral flow (65%). Base-flow contributes 36% to the total runoff. On a seasonal basis modelling results show a shift in the source of water contributing to Elimbah Creek from surface runoff and lateral flow during intense summer storms to base-flow conditions during dry months. Further calibration and validation of these results will confirm that SWAT provides an alternative to Australian water balance models.

Modelling sea water intrusion in coastal aquifers using heterogeneous computing

The objective of this PhD research program is to investigate numerical methods for simulating variably-saturated flow and sea water intrusion in coastal aquifers in a high-performance computing environment. The work is divided into three overlapping tasks: to develop an accurate and stable finite volume discretisation and numerical solution strategy for the variably-saturated flow and salt transport equations; to implement the chosen approach in a high performance computing environment that may have multiple GPUs or CPU cores; and to verify and test the implementation. The geological description of aquifers is often complex, with porous materials possessing highly variable properties, that are best described using unstructured meshes. The finite volume method is a popular method for the solution of the conservation laws that describe sea water intrusion, and is well-suited to unstructured meshes. In this work we apply a control volume-finite element (CV-FE) method to an extension of a recently proposed formulation (Kees and Miller, 2002) for variably saturated groundwater flow. The CV-FE method evaluates fluxes at points where material properties and gradients in pressure and concentration are consistently defined, making it both suitable for heterogeneous media and mass conservative. Using the method of lines, the CV-FE discretisation gives a set of differential algebraic equations (DAEs) amenable to solution using higher-order implicit solvers. Heterogeneous computer systems that use a combination of computational hardware such as CPUs and GPUs, are attractive for scientific computing due to the potential advantages offered by GPUs for accelerating data-parallel operations. We present a C++ library that implements data-parallel methods on both CPU and GPUs. The finite volume discretisation is expressed in terms of these data-parallel operations, which gives an efficient implementation of the nonlinear residual function. This makes the implicit solution of the DAE system possible on the GPU, because the inexact Newton-Krylov method used by the implicit time stepping scheme can approximate the action of a matrix on a vector using residual evaluations. We also propose preconditioning strategies that are amenable to GPU implementation, so that all computationally-intensive aspects of the implicit time stepping scheme are implemented on the GPU. Results are presented that demonstrate the efficiency and accuracy of the proposed numeric methods and formulation. The formulation offers excellent conservation of mass, and higher-order temporal integration increases both numeric efficiency and accuracy of the solutions. Flux limiting produces accurate, oscillation-free solutions on coarse meshes, where much finer meshes are required to obtain solutions with equivalent accuracy using upstream weighting. The computational efficiency of the software is investigated using CPUs and GPUs on a high-performance workstation. The GPU version offers considerable speedup over the CPU version, with one GPU giving speedup factor of 3 over the eight-core CPU implementation.

Combining sampling, profiling, remote sensing and modelling to efficiently monitoring estuarine and coastal water quality

Monitoring of coastal and estuarine water quality has been traditionally performed by sampling with subsequent laboratory analysis. This has the disadvantages of low spatial and temporal resolution and high cost. In the last decades two alternative techniques have emerged to overcome this drawback: profiling and remote sensing. Profiling using multi-parameter sensors is now in a commercial stage. It can be used, tied to a boat, to obtain a quick “picture” of the system. The spatial resolution thus increases from single points to a line coincident with the boat track. The temporal resolution however remains unchanged since campaigns and resources involved are basically the same. The need for laboratory analysis was reduced but not eliminated because parameters like nutrients, microbiology or metals are still difficult to obtain with sensors and validation measurements are still needed. In the last years the improvement in satellite resolution has enabled its use for coastal and estuarine water monitoring. Although spatial coverage and resolution of satellite images in the present is already suitable to coastal and estuarine monitoring, temporal resolution is naturally limited to satellite passages and cloud cover. With this panorama the best approach to water monitoring is to integrate and combine data from all these sources. The natural tools to perform this integration are numerical models. Models benefit from the different sources of data to obtain a better calibration. After calibration they can be used to extend spatially and temporally the methods resolution. In Algarve (South of Portugal) a monitoring effort using this approach is being undertaken. The monitoring effort comprises five different locations including coastal waters, estuaries and coastal lagoons. The objective is to establish the base line situation to evaluate the impact of Waste Water Treatment Plants design and retrofitting. The field campaigns include monthly synoptic profiling, using an YSI 6600 multi-parameter system, laboratory analysis and fixed stations. The remote sensing uses ENVISAT\MERIS Level 2 Full Resolution data. This data is combined and used with the MOHID modelling system to obtain an integrate description of the systems. The results show the limitations of each method and the ability of the modelling system to integrate the results and to produce a comprehensive picture of the system.